Don't let this wine get underneath
something in your cellar. Just leave it
right on top of the stack. Take my word for
it, you will go after it time and time again
and then you'll want more.
Jean-Philippe Janoueix is the winemaking
genius in his winemaking family that has
been in the business for 100 years. I think
he must have wine running in his veins
instead of blood. He is such a natural when
it comes to making wine.
His name is on La Confession (95 Parker
rating in 2005), La Croix St-Georges (another
95 in 2006), de Chambrun, and Croix Mouton.
They all get the 90s. Yes, these are all his
wines and they are some of the best out
there. But, the great thing about Chateau
Croix Mouton is getting "garagiste"
perfection in a bottle for a Cru
Bourgeois price.
Garagiste perfection means such strict
selection that no green, unripe grapes are
allowed into the final mix. It means throwing
out grapes that are flawed, which is
tantamount to taking euros and tossing them
into the wind. For some growers the thought
is just too painful, but for the great
growers, there is no hesitation - it is the
only way. That's why year after year,
garagistes coax great wines from their
terroirs. That is why Jean-Philippe
has the reputation he has.
Chateau Croix Mouton is a wine that will
give you immense pleasure and a very real Bordeaux experience, the more so
for not having emptied your wallet. It will
give you immense pleasure because it is not a
wine you will see on anyone else's table and
when it's obvious your guests want you to
open another one, you can afford to be
generous.
Jean-Philippe snagged the title of Wine
Grower of the Year a few years back,
which is not an achievement to be dismissed
lightly in Bordeaux where the standards of
winemaking are the highest in the world.
Chateau Croix Mouton comes from a vineyard
west of Saint-Emilion, on the right bank in
Bordeaux. The cepage is 70% Merlot,
25% Cabernet Franc with a small amount of
Petit Verdot thrown in for elegance. There
are only about 2000 cases of this wine made.
Chateau Croix Mouton has the rounded
texture I adore in a red wine. This comes
from well-integrated wood that does not
obscure the delicious red and black, curranty
fruit.
Croix Mouton is a wine you do not have to
stare at as it sits dormant in your cellar
waiting to become something. Chateau Croix
Mouton already is something! Get that
corkscrew out and twist away. It's ready.
Okay, sure, if you can summon the
self-discipline, save a bottle or two to
savor several years down the road. This wine
is not a short-hitter either. It will easily
very very good if you hold it but why wait..
So, if you're in the market for a great
petit chateau (and could you ever
complain about having too much of that in
your cellar?), this is one of those wines
that you can buy with your eyes...er, mouth
closed. Jean-Philippe is brilliant and if you
need more evidence - he rarely has any wine
to sell. I can tell you. This will go fast.
Don't miss it! Cynthia Hurley
