"In early June 2007, I visited the region and
tasted more than 250 red and white Burgundies
from barrel... It was clearly an outstanding
vintage for the region's white wines.
I give
the 2006 white Burgundy vintage a preliminary
rating of 90-93 on Wine Spectator's 100 point
scale. The best whites are full of ripe
fruit, with freshness, structure and plenty
of mineral character. They have the flesh
that makes them immediately appealing."
-Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator
Robert Parker agrees and rates the 2006
vintage a 90!
2006 White Burgundy is my type of
vintage. I
knew it
immediately when I noticed that perfect level
of acidity which makes the flavors in the
whites POP! Oh sure, there is all the
richness and the citrus and butter, but the
wine has structure, which is what makes a
white wine
great.
"2006 St. Aubin "Clos du Meix": A subtle
touch of pain grillé sets off ripe and
exceptionally fresh floral, lemon, lime and
wet stone aromas where the mineral character
also characterizes the delicious and solidly
concentrated flavors that possess both lovely
mid-palate density and a palate staining
finish. This is worth a look as the balance
is really lovely."
-Allen Meadows Burghound
Lamy's wines represent the work of a Domaine
that is absolutely dedicated to the highest
expression of terroir at the quality level of
a much more expensive white Burgundy.
Without question, Burgundies are the finest
expression of the Chardonnay grape. No other
wines
have the exquisite refinement of white
Burgundies, with their precise dashes of
citrus and honeyed layerings and minerality.
They float in your mouth and last on your
tongue - unlike so many of the New
World wines with their predictable big, fat
dollops of oak and candy.
But, how to afford them? That is always the
question. I'm always looking for a way to
find a chink in the Burgundy price ramparts.
St Aubin is a wine village that rubs
shoulders with famous Chassagne Montrachet,
but the haute prix of that neighbor hasn't
rubbed off yet.
The village backs onto a limestone slope high
in the hills west of Chassagne Montrachet.
The village is very old with origins back to
the year
1000. The soil in these sites is nearly pure
limestone and the wines produced are a very
succinct expression of their terroir.
These wines have ageing capability just like
Meursault, Chassagne Montrachet and Puligny
Montrachet with their $50-$100 per bottle price
tags.
I generally drink my St Aubin when they are
4-7 years old, but some will say "a
15-year-old white St Aubin will probably
smell of lime-blossoms and nuts and have a
nutty, earthy flavour." This, of course, is
tempting me to re-think my drinking strategy,
but in my heart, I know that I'll never be
able to leave that bottle of St Aubin
undisturbed for that long.
So, tant pis! The fabulous blend of lively
citrus and minerals will just have to do it
for me. I'll leave those lime blossoms to
those with more restraint.
Cynthia Hurley
