Logo

 News & Information Sharing



26/09/11
Greetings!

     

Just a few more days to the International Flame On in Sydney.  I know many of you are excited to be attending and I am looking forward to meeting you all.  Next week I will have some photos for those that can't attend!

 

We have the lowest everyday prices, but....   

ORDER THIS WEEK AND YOU'LL
SAVE EVEN MORE! 

Orders over:

 

$100 receive a $20 discount coupon

$150 receive a $35 discount coupon

 $200 receive a $50 discount coupon 

 $250 receive a $70 discount coupon 

 
Click on the specials link below to learn more  

FEATURED ARTIST - Jan Clay - World of Marbles
Jan Clay 1
Although Jan Rigden-Clay is no stranger to travelling (she has moved to destinations all over the world roughly 40 times), she was new to taking her world of glass with her when she made a huge move to Paris earlier in the year.

In March Jan grabbed the necessities, packed a couple of torches (although had to leave her favourite GTT ones behind), and flew to France for an undetermined length of time.  Throughout her life she has done this more than a few times, "My husband's work has taken us all around the world; Australia, China, Indonesia, Africa...sometimes for weeks, sometimes for months," she says.

However this time things were a little different; this time she had her contemporary art, glass marbles and jewellery business to think about.  

The business, which is based in Sheffield, Tasmania, came into being six years ago when Jan - an accomplished oil painter who had studied fine arts in Melbourne - decided to set up an art gallery. As she was working out the nuts and bolts, she painted and became inspired by a series of works featuring marbles, and invested time and energy into learning this new craft. Skip forward six years and her thriving gallery has expanded to feature her intricate glass work.  Jan Clay 2

Consequently when her husband delivered the news of their latest move, Jan had a new challenge on her hands - new country, new language and, until a few days ago, no long-stay visa.

Making the most of her surroundings, she spent her first few weeks in Europe assessing the local potential. She flew to England where she picked up two new concentrators, spent some time in studios and landed teaching jobs, nipped over to the Netherlands for a spot of networking, and took a tour through Germany, during which she visited the well-known glass-blowing town of Lauscha. "I'm experimenting with Lauscha glass; it's top glass that's really good for sculptural work," she says, 

For Jan, who finds her drive in overcoming technical barriers, using varying types of glass has been a crucial part of her artistic development.  

"Different glass works better for different applications," she explains, "so you can't get good unless you put some time into it. " 

Jan Clay 5However she adds that in order to maintain a successful glass business, you have to find a balance between creativity and practicality, and advises aspiring glass artists to keep this in mind.

"You have to make what sells. There's no point in making fancy, time-consuming stuff if nobody is going to buy it. You have to remain as focused as possible while managing everything, learning new skills and getting better," she says "And you have to know your clients; each marketplace has different customers and a gallery is different again. It's a very complex but very important side of the business."

On top of that, glass work comes with its frustrations 

"Glassworking keeps you humble and on your toes. Sometimes you'll get to the very last stage and the whole thing will go pear-shaped," Jan explains, "but I've seen some of the guys at the very top work on a piece and then end up throwing it away. It happens to everyone and that's encouraging to know."

This lesson that glass has taught her; that you should stay patient and persevere through the harder times in order to achieve great things, is something that Jan has taken with her to France. Jan Clay 4

Despite language and cultural barriers within a few short months she managed to find a studio in an artists' courtyard and an apartment in Versailles. And while finding some of the necessary equipment and glass is proving difficult, with the right outlook, experience and so much potential in the air, Jan's French future is looking tres bright. 


PriceMatch
POD TUTORIAL 
Jan Cahill

Encased Pod Jan C
Jan Cahill has done it again for us!  Jan has sent this Pod Tutorial to share. Your generosity is very much appreciated :)  This tutorial is best suited to intermediate/advanced lampworkers.
 
See Jan's website here

Glass:
Reichenbach 104
Purple Rose
Dark Multi colour
Mystic Coral
Effetre
Pale Lavender Trans. (Alessandrite)
Tag Golden Emerald 
Tools:
2.4 mandrel  ready with bead release.
Graphite marver
Tweezers = flat end and narrow end.
 
Preparation:
3 to 4mm stringer Dark Multi colour
3 to 4mm stringer Golden Emerald
1mm stringer Mystic Coral
 Janc-step1
Step 1:
Heat up the mandrel making sure the end is completely heated as the glass will be covering the end of the mandrel.

Using transparent glass make a core about 25mm up the end of the mandrel making sure the end is completely covered, by using the transparent glass you can see and make sure there is no bubble captured at the end of the mandrel, then cover with the Purple rose and encase with Lavender. Shape with marver as per pic.

Janc-step2

Step 2:

Using Dark Multi colour thick stringer apply five evenly spaced lines around the bead, leaving approx. 5mm at the top.

 


janc-step3

Step 3:

Cover each Dark multi colour line with Tag Golden emerald.(Reduce). Place five generous dots of Dark multi colour at the top between each line, make sure they do not touch the line or each other.

 


Janc-step4
Step 4:

Apply a generous dot of Golden Emerald on top each Dark multi colour dot and then another dot of Dark multi colour on top = stacked dots.
 



janc-step5
Step 5:

Give the whole pod a gently heat all over (this should be done the whole time while making this pod).

Now apply heat to the bottom third of the pod till the glass softens and with the narrow end tweezers pull the glass which should form a nice graduated base to a point. Burn off the pulled glass.

Once you have the desired shape apply heat to each  group of stacked  dots individually (one at a time)
Top View
heat till soft and using flat end tweezers squeeze using an upward and outward direction.

Do the same to each group of stacked dots. Apply heat again individually and using t
he narrow end tweezers press each
leaf shape in the centre and gently move down towards the body of the pod, making sure they do not touch.

With the Mystic Coral stringer apply a small dot at the end of each leaf and three dots down each line as per photo. Reduce to highlight the Tag Golden emerald.

Gently heat the whole pod properly and place in kiln. 
MURRINI MAKING TIPS
Natalie Monkivich
Nat is kindly sharing with us some Murrini making tips with us over the coming weeks.  Nat is the maker of Beadmonki Murrini that is so popular on our store.
 
TIP 1:

When first attempting murrini it is easiest to start with simple ones (a round barrel with coloured layers and stripes) before graduating to 3D objects. Starting small and working your way to a larger gather is also sensible and will allow you a chance to build your skills and confidence.  *Note - I use 10-12mm boro rods for my punty's.

TIP 2:
 
Scrap glass/Clear Capping:  Scrap glass or capping is an important addition to the gather if you want to maximise the usable murrini pull. The scrap glass or clear should be at least as high (from the gather to the punty) as the narrowest side of the murrini when looking at it from the end and in the same COE as the main gather. This is very easy if using a round or barrel shape, but can be a little confusing when pulling three dimensional murrini.

Note: 3D murrini require the capping to follow the contours of the shape so that your murrini does not pull out into a round shape after being heated. Using your marver to apply matching ridges and valleys in your capping is an important step.

 

Giving Back
WHAT IS THE HOTTEST FLAME?
Lampwork etc thread   
Going through some LampworkEtc threads this week I saw a post by PittsGlass on flame heat and given that I get so many questions about how to work in a cooler flame I thought this would be a great post to share.
 
PitssGlass said... "Well the hottest flame is the neutral flame.  It is complete combustion."  PitssGlass discusses the difference between a reduction flame, neutral flame and oxidising flame.

Read more here
Weekly SPecials
FLORAL TIPS
Lampwork Etc Thread
Yunita Floral
If you are having problems with getting a good 3D effect in your florals here is a fantastic tread on LampworkEtc  that gives some great tips, tricks and information.
 
Check out the link in post 23 to a short tutorial on Wet Canvas and post 28 has a good summary.  The whole thread is worth a read and there are some great examples of floral work as well like Yunita's beads to the left. 
 
 
Click on the image to see more examples of Yunita's florals.
 
BORO TECHNIQUES: Silver & Gold Striking Colours
YouTube Video

Jackpotmonkey.1
Jackpotmonkey on YouTube demonstrates how to work silver and gold striking colours. 
 
Jackpotmonkey says about his video..."This video is designed to help you develop your ability to work with silver and gold striking colors (such as northstar's Amber Purple and Exotics color families) to learn what type of flame produces what type of effect."
 
Jackpotmonkey assumes a basic understanding of flame settings for this video. 
 
Here is some guidelines to the different type of flames. 
 
Oxidising:  Oxidising means more Oxygen than Propane.  You get a hissing sound when you set an oxidising flame and you will see light blue streaks coming out from the torch face when you set a medium to heavy oxidising flame. This flame time is commonly used to work silver glasses that are known to be sensitive to reduction. 
 
Neutral: This is the hottest flame type as the gas to oxygen ratio is optimal. The best way to get a neutral flame is to go slightly oxidising then turn down the oxygen until the blue streaks disappear from the tip  and the flame does not flicker. A neutral flame means there is not more of either oxygen or propane. Rather they are both being equally consumed. 

Reduction:  A reduction flame is fuel (propane) rich and will give a softer, fluffier flame.  A reduction flame is used to bring metals, like silver and gold to the surface of the glass. Some people suggest to use a reduction flame to flame anneal beads. (Flame annealing is not the same as annealing your beads in a kiln and should not be used as a substitute.
 
Thanks for your time and have a great week!
Warm Regards,

Kerry

Affordable Inspiration
Visit the store
Join Our Mailing List