Though a far cry from the luxury of the Rajastan Express (see our January issue), our cruise ship, the Norwegian Jade, was quite nice and provided enough amenities to keep most passengers pleasantly occupied during their time at sea.  Best of all was our mini-suite, pleasantly appointed with a cozy seating area and a lovely little balcony.  The weather cooperated and we were able to spend many relaxing hours outdoors with a cup of tea or a glass of wine - reading, planning our next stop, or just enjoying the shimmering sea and the occasional coastal sightings, which included this close view of Stromboli.

We began our holiday in Barcelona, surprisingly but deservedly the fourth most visited city in Europe, following such giants as Paris, London, and Rome!  No superlatives can do justice to this city, with its architectural marvels, atmospheric Gothic quarter, three-star museums, gastronomical delights and unparalleled quality of life.  Barcelona's proud Catalan identity is in evidence at every turn, from language to cuisine, music, dance, art and especially its warm hospitality and joie-de-vivre.   Our four days there - two before boarding and two before flying back home - were among the most enjoyable of our two weeks away, and we cannot wait to go back for a much longer stay. 

Each of our ports of call offered far too many riches from which to choose.  Easiest was Civitavecchia, where we took a one-hour bus ride into Rome and headed directly for the Museo Napoleonico, a small gem of a museum that was the home of count Pietro Primoli and his wife, Princess Charlotte (or Carlotta) Bonaparte, great granddaughter of Napoleon's "rebel" brother Lucien.  It houses a fascinating collection of Napoleonic memorabilia, testifying to the deep ties between the Bonaparte family and Rome.   A full-length portrait of Empress Josephine by Robert Lefevre, a marble bust by Canova of Napoleon's favorite sister Pauline¸ a splendid collection of bonbonnieres and snuff boxes given by Napoleon as gifts to family members, exquisite furnishings, porcelain and candelabra, and opulent empire gowns,  are among the many remarkable objects on  exhibit.   

The two young girls represented here are the daughters of Napoleon's

older brother Joseph and his wife, Julie Clary by the great master Jacques-Louis David. Both sisters were students of David, and in fact Charlotte (wearing two gorgeous Kashmir shawls) became an accomplished artist in watercolors before dying at an early age in childbirth from a secret and unhappy love affair (oh the things one learns during one's travels!). 

In Piraeus, we decided to bypass Athens in favor of a more leisurely drive down the Attic coast to the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion.  Although some evidence indicates that the site may have been inhabited in the prehistoric period, it is first mentioned in the Odyssey, as the place where Menelaos stopped during his return from Troy to bury his helmsman, Phrontes Onetorides.  Built in the 5^th century BC on a craggy promontory buffeted by strong winds, the temple offers a magnificent view of the Aegean Sea; many of its original six meter columns are still standing. 

A major tourist attraction for centuries, the stone ruins bear the carved names of many of its visitors, including Lord Byron.  Thanks to Kostas, our excellent driver, we enjoyed several scenic stops along the way and concluded our visit with a delicious fresh fish dinner on the Piraeus picturesque waterfront.   

From our next port of call, Izmir, we proceeded directly to Ephesus, an ancient Greek city on the west coast of Anatolia.  Ephesus was one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League during the Classical Greek era and, during the Roman period, it was only second to Rome as the world's largest city, with a population of more than 250,000.  The city was famed for the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Ephesus' Basilica of St. John is one of the seven churches of Asia that are cited in the Book of Revelation, and the Gospel of St. John may have been written here.  Ephesus contains the largest collection of Roman ruins in the eastern Mediterranean, of which only an estimated 15 percent has been excavated.  Among the most important ruins are the Library of Celsus, which once held nearly 12,000 scrolls, and the outdoor theatre, which may have been the world's largest, with an estimated seating capacity of 44,000.  We were lucky to have perfect weather for our visit, and to witness a lively theatrical performance by a spirited group of young actors and dancers in colorful classical attire.  

Our two-night stop in Istanbul was a real treat!  From our balcony we had a spectacular view of three of the city's greatest sites, Haya Sophia, Topkapi Palace, and the Blue Mosque!   

Watching the sunset cast its golden glow over one of the most romantic skylines on earth was truly magical.  On land, we visited the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museumwith its exceptional examples of Islamic calligraphy, tiles, and rugs as well as ethnographic displays on Turkey's diverse cultural groups.  We also found the Jewish Museum, hidden in a narrow alley; the Serbian Orthodox Church, built of iron; the hidden garden of an Orthodox church behind tall walls with crumbling stone sculptures....to mention just a few of the unexpected pleasures we experienced in our second visit to this great city.   

Our last stop, Valletta, capital of the tiny Republic of Malta, was a bit of a homecoming for me, as I was fortunate to live for two unforgettable months on the island in 2001.  

Lying in almost the dead center of the Mediterranean, Malta has a long and "unconscionably romantic past," to quote Evelyn Waugh, and more world class attractions than a country many times its size: a magnificent cathedral, unparalleled archeological treasures, ancient fortifications, picturesque streets, a medieval armory, colorful religious festivals, bustling shopping streets, superb diving and fishing - the list goes on an on.  During our brief stop, we managed to see only a few of Malta's splendors, among them the extraordinary St. John's Co-Cathedral, the splendid if gory

The Beheading of St. John the Baptist by Caravaggio, and the Museum of Archeology' superb collection of artifacts from Malta's prehistoric period beginning with the first arrival of man in the 5^th millennium BC!      

Shopping  during our trip was disappointing, however.  Except for carpets, Istanbul's famed Covered Bazaar offered mostly standard tourist fare of poor design and workmanship, as well as fake luxury items at inflated prices given their shoddy quality; the same was true in Izmir, where port shops proudly displayed more "Guccis" and "Pradas" than either firm produces in a year.  

Sadly, our time in Rome did not allow for shopping, as I know I would have had a field day there!  Only in Barcelona we made some modest purchases, a stylish summer top for our daughter, a pair of comfortable shoes that served me well throughout our trip, and several gift items from the museum shops.  We completed our obligatory souvenir purchases at the airport just before boarding our return flight, a prosaic end to two enchanted weeks on land and at sea.