|
Greetings! 
Our second newletter is a special issue dedicated to the exquisite woman who was Napoleon's only great love and the inspiration for Swan Ways - the Empress Josephine, whose birthday we will celebrate on June 23. This month's feature article is a very brief biographical sketch of this remarkable woman, highlighting some of the salient moments of her life. Next we discuss the Kashmir shawl, how it arrived in France and became Josephine's signature fashion statement. We end with a note about pashmina - you may be in for a surprise! Thank you to all of you who provided thoughtful comments on our first issue. We renew our invitation to visit our web site, www.swanways.com and to share your views on products, articles, or other ways in which Swan Ways can enhance the beauty and grace of your lifestyle. With warmest regards,
Alix Sundquist
| |
Napoleon's Incomparable Empress:
Joséphine
 A woman of mythical allure and legendary charm, Joséphine, Napoleon's consort and empress of the French, was born on June 23, 1763, at her family's sugar plantation on the French Caribbean island of Martinique. Christened Marie-Joséphe Rose Tascher de la Pagerie, she was known as "Rose" from her birth until young General Bonaparte pronounced her his "sweet and incomparable Joséphine."
By the time of their first meeting in 1795, Joséphine had lived through one of the most turbulent periods in French history. Married at 16 to a young army officer, vicomte (viscount) Alexandre de Beauharnais, they had two gifted children, Eugene and Hortense. The marriage, however, was not happy and the couple separated. Alexandre perished in the guillotine during the Reign of Terror and Joséphine barely escaped the same fate when Robespierre fell a few days later. Having experienced near starvation, Joséphine turned herself into an accomplished hostess who enjoyed the support of powerful patrons. She was the mistress of Director Paul Barras when she first caught the eye of the young general Bonaparte. Six years younger than Josephine, he was struck by "her extraordinary grace and irresistibly sweet manner," as well as by her aristocratic bearing and political connections. Joséphine was initially not impressed by the gauche, thin, and unkempt general, but his ardent wooing and her desire for security led her to accept his proposal of marriage. Two days after their wedding on March 9, 1796, Napoleon left Joséphine to lead the French army in Italy, from where he wrote reams of passionate love letters, pleading with his bride to join him. "Not one day has passed that I have not loved you, not one night that I have not clasped you in my arms. I have not drunk so much as a cup of tea without cursing the call of glory and ambition which have wrenched me from you who are my life, my soul." Joséphine, enjoying her new status as the wife of a celebrated hero, resisted. She had also become infaturated with a dashing young officer, Hippolyte Charles. Napoleon learned of Joséphine's infidelity while in Egypt and was devastated. He contemplated divorce, but her entreaties and his affection for her children led to reconciliation. Their relationship, however, was inalterably changed. Having been among the last to realize her husband's greatness, Joséphine fell in love with him and became a loyal and supportive consort. Napoleon's numerous affairs were deeply hurtful, but the marriage proved a successful partnership in which Joséphine acted as a trusted confidante whose astute political sense and flawless social skills helped win over opponents, and whose exceptional esthetic sense set the tone of the Empire. Joséphine was an important patron of the arts and commissioned exquisite artworks that made the Empire style admired and copied throughout the western world. A keen and knowledgeable horticulturalist, she spent huge sums in the gardens of her beloved Malmaison, outside Paris, and grew, for the first time in France, a large variety of new plants, flowers, and trees. Many came from Australia, recently discovered by Captain Cook, as did a pair of black swans, that became Josephine's favorite emblem.
Napoleon reluctantly divorced her on January 10, 1810 when it became clear she could not produce an heir. She retained the title of Empress and was granted extensive properties. Josephine remained popular among the French people and in good terms with Napoleon. She died in 1814 and is buried in the small church of Rueil, not far from Malmaison. During his last exile in St. Helena, Napoleon conceded that his policies and personal happiness would have been best served by a child with Josephine - and called her: "grace personified...the most amiable and the best of women." The name he had given her - Joséphine - was the last word that passed his lips.
Josephine's daughter Hortense married Napoleon's brother Louis and their son became Napoleon III of France. Her granddaughter Josephine, daughter of Eugène, married King Oscar I of Sweden, the son of Napoleon's one-time fiancée, Désirée Clary. Through her, Josephine is a direct ancestor of the present heads of the royal houses of Belgium, Denmark, Luxembourg, Norway and Sweden.
|
Joséphine's signature fashion statement:
The Kashmir shawl was introduced in France by the soldiers of Napoleon's Egyptian campaign. Originally worn by men at the 16th century Mogul court as shoulder mantles or sashes, they were widely available in Egypt from Indian traders or as war souvenirs captured from the Mameluke warriors, and worn wrapped around the waist as belts. Napoleon himself was portrayed wearing a Kashmir shawl in a lovely small portrait by Jean-Léon Gérôme (1), as well as in the colossal painting by Baron Gros, where he is shown visiting the victims of the plague in Jaffa (2). Taken back to France as gifts, the shawl rapidly became a fashionable woman's indispensable garment, not only for its intrinsic beauty but as a warm and stylish cover to the sheer décolleté gowns of the Directory and First Empire styles.
The shawl's vertiginous rise as the ultimate fashion statement owes much to the Empress Joséphine, whose sense of style made her a paragon of fashion well before her ascent to the throne. Her lavish spending in clothes and jewelry is legendary, and she owned hundreds of shawls and scarves, including some 60 rare and valuable examples from Kashmir. Joséphine bought every shawl that was offered to her, and reputedly never asked its price. Some were worth over 10,000 francs, a staggering sum at the time.
In her 1809 portrait by Baron Antoine-Jean Gros, Joséphine wears two Kashmir shawls, one made into a graceful gown, the other folded around her waist and draped over her left shoulder. Joséphine also pioneered the practical and decorative use of shawls by using them draped over couches and beds, or turning them into pillows and even cushions for her pet dogs.
The Kashmir shawl was an ideal complement to the warmth, elegance, and grace of the empress Josephine. It has remained ever since associated with her and with the romance and sumptuousness of the First Empire.
|
Pashmina:
Genuine or Fake?
Pashm is a Kashmiri word for the wool of the Tibetan  domesticated mountain goat, capra hircus. The animals, which graze in the Himalayas at altitudes of over 15,000 feet, are able to survive the extreme winter temperatures by growing a soft underbelly fleece under their coarse and thick outer hair. Each goat produces only about 3-5 ounces of fleece a year, from which pashmina is woven. Pashmina is used for the best Kashmiri shawls, and each shawl requires wool from three or more goats.
Pashmina-making is a painstaking process done completely by hand. After the pashmina fleece is collected, it is spun on a spinning wheel locally known as 'Charkha'. Hand-spinning is a laborious and time consuming task, requiring great patience and dexterity. The resulting fiber is approximately 15 microns in thickness which is several times thinner than human body hairs. As the pashmina yarn is too fragile for the vibration caused by power looms, the weaving of the traditional 100% pashmina shawls is done on hand-looms. The weaving process is in itself an art, which has been passed down over generations. The resulting fabric has a luxuriously sensual feeling and provides extraordinary warmth.
Since there is no trademark for pashmina, retailers can use the word loosely, to put it kindly. So-called "pashminas" are  sold in the streets of New York and other U.S. cities for as little as $5, but they do not contain an iota of Tibetan goat wool. The genuine article is expensive: a plain pure pashmina might start at around $500; a shawl with allover sozni embroidery, as the one pictured here, sells for $1200; and a densely hand-embroidered shawl of first quality may run up several thousand dollars, depending on the fineness of the stitching. Museum- or collector-quality shawls from the 18th or 19th century may command prices in excess of $100,000. | |
Save the Date:
June 28
We will be celebrating the empress Josephine's birthday with a festive show of our summer collection. We will be featuring some lovely new Kashmiri pieces in light colors and textures, some with beautiful hand embroidery. They are exquisitely crafted and have a fresh and sophisticated look. They would be the perfect finishing touch for your summer outfits. If you are in the neighborhood, and with no obligation to buy whatsoever, please come and bring your friends.
There will be Napoleonic music, refreshments, informal modeling, and much more!
Date: Saturday, June 28
Time: 3-8 pm
Place: 3016 N Florida St.
Arlington, VA 22207
| |
Invitation to contribute to the newsletter
We welcome your thoughts on articles or questions you would like to see addressed in the newsletter. If you write an article and it is selected for publication, we will post it with your byline and picture and we will send you a $25 certificate valid on any purchase of Swan Ways collection.
We look forward to hearing from you!
|
|
|