Sandy Cove Marine-We Work on Boats and Harder on Friendships!

Welcome to the Sandy Cove Sentinel
 
Greetings! 

Well, it feels like just the other day that I sent out my first issue of the Sandy Cove Sentinel and here I am again.
 
At this stage the regularity of the issues is very much dependend on when I go to Yamaha School as I would like you to know when you can expect to find me here.
 
If you know of anyone who you think should get this newsletter, please forward the Sentinel to them and they can join using the "Join Our Mailing List" button on the right.
 
Please give me feedback if there is anything you would like to see covered in The Sandy Cove Sentinel.
 
I mean anything... from engine maintenance & repair to pictures which you'd like to see because you're not here, like the one on the right. I will happily oblige.
 
Thank you again!
Johan 
 
Ps. Please click on "confirm" at the top of this email to continue receiving The Sandy Cove Sentinel. Thank you!
 
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Yamaha School Achievement

 YamahaCerificate
 
As you know I have been attending Yamaha Technical Training School in Kennesaw, Georgia over the last number of months.
 
I am happy to say that I passed all the Modules (Outboard Systems, 4-Stroke, Fuel and Electrical) I attended with higher than above average marks and hope to do the same with the remaining two modules.
 
From the picture you will see the Certifications that I have achieved thus far and the ones I still have to do, which is Drive Train and Advanced Class. I will then be allowed to write my Master Technician's Certification Test.
 
I Will Be Away From The Marina And At Yamaha School During The Following Dates: 
 
30 January until 8 February 2009
24 February until 3 March 2009
20 March until 29 March 2009
 
I apologize in advance for any inconvenience.
 
While it is obviously to my benefit being certified, I will also be able to give you better service and cut down on expensive diagnostic time which I am sure you will understand.
 
Please arrange any annual service work around these dates to book your spot and avoid dissapointment.
 
I look forward to seeing you here!
 
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Ethanol....Yikes!

Don't despair...there is still a way out, even if it is just for the time being!
 
Ethanol (around here) is not added to gas on the water at all Marinas and that's the good news!!!
 
It is however added to gas at almost every gas station on land.
 
Here are the Facts...and also the bad news!
  • Ethanol is added (blended) to gas to provide a cleaner burning fuel.
  • Ethanol is added manually to gas AT THE GAS STATION when the underground tanks are filled. This allows for huge potential of human error.
  • The Ethanol percentage should be 10%, but industry watchdog MLR Reports show as little as 5% and as much as 40% in Summer of '08! (Southern Boating Nov 2008, Page 30)
  • Ethanol will eat into old fibreglass gas tanks and rubber fittings, which opens a whole new can of worms....think filters, dirty fuel replacement, parts replacement, engine trouble...the list goes on.
  • Ethanol draws moisture from the air through your fuel tank vent. When the water content reaches 0.3% to 0.5% (39 to 64oz in 100 Gallons!) the water will seperate the Ethanol and the fuel. The water will then mix with the Ethanol and form a layer on which the gas floats.

Obviously your engine cannot run on water and Ethanol (Alcohol) and hopefully the "Water in Gas" sensor will set an alarm off to tell you there's a problem before serious damage occurs.

Furthermore, even if you can extract all the water bit by bit by replacing the water seperator numerous times, you are still left with a lean fuel mixture.
 
The reason for this is that Ethonol brings the PON (Pump Octane Number) up by about 3 points. In other words, if you're using 87 Octane, it is really 84 plus the Ethanol, which brings it to 87.
 
So, without the Ethanol, you're down to 84 Octane and you'll be running a lean mixture which will bring you some heartache too.
 
Also, your fuel pickup is in the bottom of the fuel tank...get the picture?
 
So what can you do about this?
  1. Fill up on the water (Mr Lobster & Caloosa Cove) - I know it's more expensive but in the long run it'll be a whole lot cheaper since you'll avoid Ethanol and the problems above.
  2. If you really have to fill up at the gas station on the road, buy yourself an Ethanol tester and at least make sure it's 10% and not more (or less!) and use all the fuel at that time.
  3. If you have fuel left and are going to store your boat for a couple of weeks or more (especially in high humidity), buy some Yamaha Fuel Conditioner. When you add this to the fuel, it will form a layer on top of the fuel and prevent the Ethanol from drawing in the moisture...which is where the trouble starts!
  4. Tets the gas in your boat/s and make sure of what you are running.

Whatever you do, DO NOT think that by adding fresh fuel you will elimanate the problem unless you are going to run ALL the fuel out right away.

The bad fuel will only make the fresh fuel bad too!

I hope I have given you some idea of the problems connected to Ethanol and what you can do to avoid it.

Watch this space as I am sure there will be a whole lot more to say about this in future.
 
Issue # 2
January 2009
 
Sunrise 26 Jan 09 
Aren't We Just So Blessed?
 
Sunrise 26 January 2009
 
Islamorada 
Join Our Mailing List
In This Issue
Yamaha School
Ethanol...Yikes!
Water Pumps...
BadImpeller 
 
Water Pumps...
 
Why change that?

Numerous people have asked me why they have to have their Water Pumps changed at regular intervals.
 
Some of the things people say are things like "I've only done 20 or so hours since it was last done". Or "She's still pumping water from the tell tale, why do I need to change it?" When I ask when the last change was, it is generally more than 2 years ago.
 
There is nothing new about Water Pumps. They've been around ever since the first water cooled engine was designed and built. You've changed them when your engine overheated at speed and that was that.
 
Well, not any more...things have changed.
 
We all know the Water Pump is in there somewhere (right?) and we seem to think that as long as the tell tale is shooting water, all is well.
 
This is not the case.
 
Have you ever noticed how all of a sudden a tree you have had in your garden since it was a sapling, seems to have grown overnight? It has always been there, but because you see it all the time, you don't notice it getting bigger and bigger.
 
The same thing with the tell tale. You see it all the time and never notice it getting weaker and weaker, until one day you're running along and you get an alarm. How is this possible? The tell tale is still shooting water!
 
Somehow boat owners don't think it is necessary to go to the trouble (or expense) of replacing the water pumps on their engines at regular intervals. 
 
Off course, there is the other scenario (as in the case of the impeller above) where you either run aground or pick up a plastic bag around the water intake, run the Water Pump dry and then just simply fry the impeller, and in a lot of cases, the housing too. (See pictures here.)
 
Whatever the case may be, I would like to share some information with you that would maybe make you think differently when next time you look at the water coming out of the tell tale hole.
 
Yamaha recommends replacing your Water Pump Every Year or 100 hours whichever comes first. Why is that? Do they just want to make money from selling parts? No, I don't think so.
 
Most people think that the tell tale is there to show that the water pump is working and that sufficient cooling water is running through the engine, keeping it at the temperature it is designed to run at. This off course is true as well, but in today's Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) four strokes it goes deeper than that.
 
The water coming out of the tell tale hole runs through the fuel rail (from where the fuel goes into the injectors) in EFI Engines, cooling the fuel and minimizing vaporization.
 
In some engines the water is also used to cool the Regulator Rectifier, which converts AC current to DC to be stored in your batteries.
 
So, if your impeller has been working for 100 hours or been sitting in one position for a year (without you running the engine for a minute), it can not function the way it should. The amount of water flowing through the fuel rail and/or Regulator Rectifier is less than it should be and excessive heat is present in these parts.
 
If you look at an impeller that has been installed for a year, you will notice creases on the inside of the curved fins, much like the creases on the inside of your fingers if you curl them inwards. This means that the impeller is no longer pushing all the water it should as the mere shape of it allows the fins to spin without pumping.  Makes sense?
 
Oh, and while I'm on the subject, when you do a Water Pump change, replace the complete Water Pump, not just the impeller. The other parts wear out as well.
 
If you have the work done by someone else, ask to see your old parts. Take a look at them and notice how much wear is on the plate or inside the cup, but mostly make sure that not only the impeller has been replaced.
 
I think this knowledge might make you look at the tell tale water a bit more carefully next time and I hope you will remember to have your Water Pump changed regularly.
 
If you have any questions please feel free to contact me on my email at johan@sandycovemarinesales.com or just stop here at Sandy Cove Marine Sales.
 
Click anywhere inside this box to be redirected to Mr Lobster.com
 
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Johan de Kock (305) 879-2516 (Cell)
Sandy Cove Marine Sales
(305) 664-4142 (Marina)