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A Publication of Classic Custom Clothiers
November 2008







"While a dedicated dresser can express his personal style even with formal wear, it still remains that formal evening wear was conceived to respond to a strict dress code that gives no more latitude to civilian dress than a uniform to a military man."



SPACE
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SANDY TABOH
Classic Custom Clothiers
FORMAL WEAR FUNDAMENTALS
Sandy Taboh color Is Your Formal Wear Correct?

The return to refinement noted at such red carpet events as the Academy Awards signals an end to the era of creative black tie where anything goes, regardless of taste and classic tradition. More and more men are embracing a return of sartorial sophistication by wearing classic formal wear. Today's tuxedo is super-classic luxury with a streamlined silhouette. It is pure elegance in gentlemanly style.

No other form of dress for a man is as steeped in such ritualistic sense of propriety as formal wear. While a dedicated dresser can express his personal style even with formal wear, it still remains that formal evening wear was conceived to respond to a strict dress code that gives no more latitude to civilian dress than a uniform to a military man. There is something incredibly elegant about the simplicity of black and white. From its stark contrast and conspicuous absence of pattern, to the finished look when the elements are properly assembled, formal wear indeed presents a man at his most debonair.

As more and more people today are re-experiencing the pleasures of dressing up, it is easy for almost any gentleman to find himself attending affairs requiring black tie at least several times a year. Therefore, a properly styled tuxedo is one of the smartest and potentially most enduring investments a man can make for his wardrobe.

Propriety in formal wear dictates just four proper styles for the tuxedo in either black or midnight blue: the peaked lapel tuxedo, with grosgrain facing on the lapel, in either single-breasted or double-breasted styling, or the single-breasted or double-breasted shawl collar with either satin or grosgrain on the lapel facings. All are paired with conventional formal trousers. While there are all sorts of jacket variations on the market, these are considered the only proper choices.

Perhaps Alan Flusser put the exclamation point on the discussion when he wrote in Dressing the Man, "dinner jacket models that deviate from these four classic archetypes or boast such informal embellishments as notched lapels or flap pockets devolve into sartorial oxymorons, convoluting both the form's aesthetic logic and its promise of timeless elegance. The whole idea of a formal suit is to distinguish itself from the notch-lapel business suit, not replicate it."
WHEN THE INVITATION READS "BLACK TIE"
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Whether the invitation to a formal occasion reads "black tie," "cravate noire," or "evening dress," it is a tuxedo that the guest is expected to wear. It is known in North America as a "tuxedo," in England as a "dinner jacket," and in Germanic languages as a "smoking jacket."
 
Opportunities to wear a tuxedo occur regularly, with their frequency dependent upon the social circles in which you move. Anyone who often wears a suit has nothing to fear from wearing a tuxedo. It is, after all, a suit, albeit tailored and worn with a very certain level of conformity to propriety. Reserved exclusively for evening wear, the tuxedo, in all its splendor and simplicity, is the most elegant way for a man to dress.

The white tuxedo jacket, referred to as the "white dinner jacket" in England, is worn at midsummer evening parties or for cruise wear. Always worn with a black bow tie, it is appropriate in either genuine white or ecru, a shade between natural white and eggshell ivory. The cut and fabric choices of a white dinner jacket are subject to the rules of formality as its black equivalent.

As a black bow tie is traditionally worn with a tuxedo, the invitation indicating "black tie" means this is the preferred correct form of evening dress to wear. A white tie is customarily worn with tails for the most formal of events. Such official occasions are most common these days to ambassadors, politicians, ballroom dancers and orchestral conductors.
Sandy Taboh
Classic Custom Clothiers

Phone: (408) 996-2112

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