"While a dedicated dresser can
express his personal style even with formal wear, it still remains that formal
evening wear was conceived to respond to a strict dress code that gives no more
latitude to civilian dress than a uniform to a military
man."
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SANDY TABOH Classic Custom Clothiers
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FORMAL WEAR FUNDAMENTALS
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Is Your Formal Wear
Correct?
The return to refinement noted at such red carpet events as the Academy
Awards signals an end to the era of creative black tie where anything goes,
regardless of taste and classic tradition. More and more men are embracing a
return of sartorial sophistication by wearing classic formal wear. Today's
tuxedo is super-classic luxury with a streamlined silhouette. It is pure
elegance in gentlemanly style.
No other form of dress for a man is as
steeped in such ritualistic sense of propriety as formal wear. While a dedicated
dresser can express his personal style even with formal wear, it still remains
that formal evening wear was conceived to respond to a strict dress code that
gives no more latitude to civilian dress than a uniform to a military man. There
is something incredibly elegant about the simplicity of black and white. From
its stark contrast and conspicuous absence of pattern, to the finished look when
the elements are properly assembled, formal wear indeed presents a man at his
most debonair.
As more and more people today are re-experiencing the
pleasures of dressing up, it is easy for almost any gentleman to find himself
attending affairs requiring black tie at least several times a year. Therefore,
a properly styled tuxedo is one of the smartest and potentially most enduring
investments a man can make for his wardrobe.
Propriety in formal wear
dictates just four proper styles for the tuxedo in either black or midnight
blue: the peaked lapel tuxedo, with grosgrain facing on the lapel, in either
single-breasted or double-breasted styling, or the single-breasted or
double-breasted shawl collar with either satin or grosgrain on the lapel
facings. All are paired with conventional formal trousers. While there are all
sorts of jacket variations on the market, these are considered the only proper
choices.
Perhaps Alan Flusser put the exclamation point on the discussion
when he wrote in Dressing the Man, "dinner jacket models that deviate from these
four classic archetypes or boast such informal embellishments as notched lapels
or flap pockets devolve into sartorial oxymorons, convoluting both the form's
aesthetic logic and its promise of timeless elegance. The whole idea of a formal
suit is to distinguish itself from the notch-lapel business suit, not replicate
it."
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WHEN THE INVITATION READS "BLACK
TIE"
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Whether the invitation to a formal occasion reads "black tie," "cravate
noire," or "evening dress," it is a tuxedo that the guest is expected to wear.
It is known in North America as a "tuxedo," in England as a "dinner jacket," and
in Germanic languages as a "smoking jacket." Opportunities to wear a
tuxedo occur regularly, with their frequency dependent upon the social circles
in which you move. Anyone who often wears a suit has nothing to fear from wearing a
tuxedo. It is, after all, a suit, albeit tailored and worn with a very certain
level of conformity to propriety. Reserved exclusively for evening wear, the
tuxedo, in all its splendor and simplicity, is the most elegant way for a man to
dress.
The white tuxedo jacket, referred to as the "white dinner jacket"
in England, is worn at midsummer evening parties or for cruise wear. Always worn
with a black bow tie, it is appropriate in either genuine white or ecru, a shade
between natural white and eggshell ivory. The cut and fabric choices of a white
dinner jacket are subject to the rules of formality as its black
equivalent.
As a black bow tie is traditionally worn with a tuxedo, the
invitation indicating "black tie" means this is the preferred correct form of
evening dress to wear. A white tie is customarily worn with tails for the most
formal of events. Such official occasions are most common these days to
ambassadors, politicians, ballroom dancers and orchestral
conductors.
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