A monthly newsletter courtesy of BK Home Inspections
In This Issue
Household Tip
Week's Wit
Infrared Inspections
Mold behind wallpaper
Interesting Facts
Energy Tips
Fire Safety Tips
Q & A Time
Safety Tips
ASIAN LADY BEETLE
Contact Info
Call BK for
______________


Fun Time Teaser

 

Question:

The R value refers to resistance to heat flow. An attic should have a R value of 38 minimum.

What is the R value of a mid quality double pane window?

1. R6

2. R8

3. R3

4. R14

See below for the answer.

Household Tip

 

wasp
 

Bees:

The best time to spray for bees is at night when the bees are least active and in their nest. Sprays, foams, and powders work well.

Things To Do This Month

 

1. Replace batteries in smoke and CO detectors.

2. Clean or replace filter in de-humidifier.

3. Check for tree branches touching power lines and roof.

4. Repace batteries in your programmable thermostat if needed. Take a few minutes and go over the settings.

5. Make appointment for a furnace check-up.

6. Repair leaky or sagged gutters.

7. Practice a fire drill.

8. Pull out refrigerator and clean coils

9. Flush water heater.

10. Make sure emergency phone numbers are handy.

Week's Wit

 

If you lend someone $20, and never see that person again, it was probably worth it. 

 
Fun time Teaser Answer

 

The answer is R3.

Many homeowners are quick to replace their windows because the sales guy guarantees a reduction in the heating bill by replacing the single pane with double pane. You are going from an R1 (single) to R3 (double pane). Yes, there is a slight savings but payback is anywhere from 40-80 years. Cellular or insulated blinds on the windows will quadruple the R value of a window at a fraction of the cost of window replacements. A window that is not loose and leaky with a good storm window is about as warm as a replacement double pane window.

 
Contact Info
Bob Beisbier
BK Home Inspections LLC
S95 W32855 Hickorywood Tr
Mukwonago, WI 53149
262-993-7755
Certified Master Inspector (CMI)
RHI# 1035-106
ASHI# 212809
InterNACHI #NACHI08082601
DILHR Certified
Infrared Certified
Green Certified
Member WAHI
Member BBB
bkpro@wi.rr.com 


 

  
BK News

The best time to learn about the condition and workings of a house is during a pre-purchase home inspection. We will give you valuable information about the home's operating systems. When we are done you will have a clear understanding of the property conditions.

 

Is there an topic that you would like to see discussed? Please let me know and I will add it into next month's newsletter. Thanks!

Sincerely,
Bob Beisbier
BK Home Inspections
Honest, Reliable Service
 
  
CLEANING UP MOLD WITH BLEACH
 

If you think that the best  product for cleaning up a mold problem is bleach, you may be in for a surprise. Not only is bleach a poor choice for cleaning mold, improper use can also be a violation of Federal law! In our experience, the use of chlorine bleach is misunderstood by many homeowners and contractors alike.

Chorine bleach is commonly used as a surface sanitizer. It's used in the healthcare and food processing industries on pre-cleaned, non-porous surfaces (e.g., stainless steel). In these situations, bleach can be an effective anti-microbial agent. It also destroys compounds that give a material its color, thus "whitening" surfaces.


SO WHAT'S THE PROBLEM?


If we just stated that bleach has the ability to kill microorganisms, then why isn't it a good choice for cleaning moldy surfaces? There are at least two answers to this question.

First, bleach will chemically react with both the mold and all of the other organic material that may be present. If excess debris isn't first removed from the surface, or if the material upon which the mold is growing is organic in nature, the active ingredients in a bleach solution may be consumed long before the mold is killed.

Second, bleach is not a detergent - it does not effectively remove foreign material from a surface. The primary goal in any mold clean-up effort is to physically remove the mold from the surface, not just kill it.

Even if a bleach solution were to kill the mold, a dead mold spore may still elicit adverse health effects. A good analogy is peanut allergies. For certain persons, peanuts can be severely allergenic - in fact, life-threatening - even after the killing (roasting) process. Although a recent study by a recognized industry expert suggests that bleach can diminish the allergenic properties of certain molds, independent confirming studies are lacking.

USING CHLORINE BLEACH CAN BE DANGEROUS


It is important to remember that chlorine bleach is a strong skin, eye and respiratory irritant. Bleach should never be applied with a spray bottle or other type of aerosolizing device without adequate eye and respiratory protection. Also, the potentially toxic properties of bleach solutions cannot be overlooked. The use of bleach in combination with certain household cleaners can cause the release of chlorine gas, and recent research suggests that carcinogenic chlorinated compounds (chloroform, carbon tetrachloride) are commonly released.

LET'S GET BACK TO THE BASICS 

When dealing with a mold problem, cleaning and removing the fungal growth is far more important than trying to kill it. For most non-porous and semi-porous materials, the most effective method of cleaning up mold is to use a detergent solution, followed by a clear water rinse. If desired, bleach may be used afterwards to decolorize some of the enzyme staining caused by the mold.


"IT IS A VIOLATION OF FEDERAL LAW TO USE THIS PRODUCT..." 

Finally, it's important to note that some well-known household bleaches, like Clorox® and Hi-Lex®, are registered with the U.S. EPA as pesticides. Under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA), it is a violation of Federal law to use these products in a manner inconsistent with their labeling. The "labeling" submitted to the EPA as well as the label on the bottle clearly state that these products should be used only after cleaning the affected surface. While the FIFRA regulations do not apply to the use of pesticides by homeowners in their own residences, they do apply to cleaning contractors.

In our experience, for cleaning limited areas of mold on non-porous and semi-porous surfaces, it is best to use a detergent solution and a generous helping of elbow grease. And, if the area of surfaces impacted by mold growth exceeds the EPA's designation of a "small project" (i.e., >10 square feet) we recommend that you call an experienced environmental consultant for appropriate guidance. 

  
Mold behind wallpaper 

Owners and managers of buildings with vinyl wallpaper on exterior walls must be aware of the potential problems with drying walls that have become wet. When a minor moisture problem develops, whether from a leak or from the migration of water vapor, vinyl wallpaper may not allow the exterior walls to dry normally. When a major moisture issue occurs, such as a leaking chimney flashing, the wallpaper may negate drying efforts. As a result, the following recommendations should be considered:

  • Use a moisture meter to detect high moisture levels. CAUTION: The same property that makes wallpaper impervious to moisture may cause false negative readings with some types of moisture meters. Use a moisture meter that is equipped with pins to penetrate the wallpaper, or a pinless meter that relies on a radio frequency transceiver rather than a measure of impedance.
  • In situations where a significant leak has affected walls finished with vinyl wallpaper, the wallpaper may need to be removed to allow the wall to dry in time to prevent fungal growth.
  • With certain types of masonry wall construction, avoiding vinyl wallpaper or similar wall coverings on the inside surface of exterior walls may be the best course to prevent trapping excess moisture that can lead to fungal growth.
  • If finishing exterior walls with vinyl wallpaper is deemed necessary for aesthetic or durability reasons, various wallpaper options should be discussed. For example, newer vinyl wall coverings are available with perforations that reduce its vapor trapping qualities. 
     

 

Interesting Facts
  
    • If a piece of popcorn was dropped in a neutron star, it would produce an explosion similar to a World War II atomic bomb
    • You would weigh over a trillion pounds on a neutron star
    • Our galaxy is only one of 100 billion known galaxies in the universe
    • Stars collide once every thousand years or so
    • The scientific name for typtophan synthetase has 1,909 letters in it
    • The Southern Elephant Seal is the largest living carnivore
    • Kitti's Hognosed Bat is the smallest living mammal
    • Martha Washington had the equivelant of 6 million dollars when she married George
    • All the clocks in Pulp Fiction are stuck on 4:20
 Energy Tips
    

Did you know that the No. 1 way to save energy is by adjusting your lifestyle, or the way you use and live with energy?
Everything from how you operate appliances to the number of lights you leave on can impact your energy usage. With that said, there are plenty of ways to save energy - without compromising the comfort of your home.
Here are some low-cost or no-cost ways to save:


Cooling 

Air conditioning costs account for up to 70% of your total energy usage.

To keep costs down:
Set your thermostat higher. Each degree below 78 equals up to a 9% increase in cooling costs.
Replace your manual thermostat with a programmable model. This alone can save you up to 15% on cooling costs. Programmable thermostats can be set to keep the house warmer during the day if people are not home.
Use window coverings and landscaping to help keep the heat out of your house.
Use blinds and curtains in the summer to prevent radiant heat gain.
Add reflective film or solar screens to windows.
Plant shrubs around windows to help absorb heat.
Plant trees strategically to help shade windows.
Use ceiling fans to make your house feel cooler.


Lighting
Lighting costs account for around 7% of your monthly electricity bill.

You can reduce energy usage by:
Using compact fluorescent lighting. These lights don't put off as much heat as incandescents.
Investing in long-lasting fluorescent lights for hard-to-reach places, such as vaulted ceilings. Compact fluorescent lights typically last 7 to 10 times longer than incandescents.
Turning off lights when you leave the room. Can't remember? Use an automatic timer to help jog your memory.
Using motion-activated lights outside.


Appliances
Household appliances make up a significant portion of electricity costs. Your refrigerator alone can use as much as 15% of your home's total energy. If your refrigerator is 15 years old or more, consider getting a new one. You'll save money in the long run. 

 

 Fire Safety Tips

Cooking with Care

Stay in the kitchen when you are frying, grilling, or broiling food. If you leave the kitchen for even a short period time, turn off the stove.
Keep anything that can catch fire - potholders, oven mitts, wooden utensils, paper or plastic bags - away form your stovetop.
Wear short, close fitting or tightly rolled sleeves when cooking. Loose clothing can dangle onto stove burners and catch fire.
Always keep an oven mitt and lid handy. If a small fire starts in a pan on the stove, put on the oven mitt and smother the flames by carefully sliding the lid over the pan. Turn off the burner. Don't remove the lid until it is completely cool.


Everyday Electrical Safety

Keep lamps, light fixtures, and light bulbs away from anything that can burn, such as lamp shades, bedding, curtains, and clothing.
Replace cracked and damaged electrical cords.
Use extension cords for temporary wiring only. Consider having additional circuits or receptacles added by a qualified electrician.
Homes with young children should have tamper-resistant electrical receptacles.
Call a qualified electrician or landlord if you have recurring problems with blowing fuses or tripping circuit breakers, discolored or warm wall outlets, flickering lights or a burning or rubbery smell coming from an appliance.


Healthy Heating

Install and maintain carbon monoxide alarms to avoid risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.
Maintain heating equipment and chimneys by having them cleaned and inspected every year by a qualified professional.
Keep all things that can burn, such as paper, bedding or furniture, at least 3 feet away form heating equipment.
Turn portable space heaters off when you go to bed or leave the room.
An oven should not be used to heat a home.


Strike Out Smoking-materials Fires

If you smoke, choose fire-safe cigarettes if they are available in your area.
If you smoke, smoke outside.
Wherever you smoke, use deep, sturdy ashtrays.
Never smoke in a home where oxygen is used.
Keep matches and lighters up high in a locked cabinet, out of the reach of children.


Candle with Caution

Keep candles at least 12 inches form anything that can burn.
Use sturdy, safe candleholders.
Never leave a burning candle unattended. Blow out candles when you leave a room.
Avoid using candles in bedrooms and sleeping areas.
Use flashlights for emergency lighting.


Safety 101

Install smoke alarms in every bedroom, outside each sleeping area and on every level of the home. For the best protection, interconnect all smoke alarms throughout the home. When one sounds, they all sound.
Test smoke alarms at least once a month using the test button.
Replace smoke alarms every 10 years.
Make sure everyone can hear the sound of the smoke alarms.
Have a home fire escape plan. Know at least two ways out of every room, if possible, and a meeting place outside. Practice your escape plan twice a year.
When the smoke alarm sounds, get out and stay out.
If you are building or remodeling your home, consider a residential fire sprinkler system.

 Question and Answer time 

Q. What is a GFCI outlet?
A. Ground fault circuit interrupter outlets (GFCI) are fast acting circuit breakers which sense small imbalances in the circuit caused by current leakage to the ground. Should someone come in contact with a live (hot) wire, the GFCI breaker interrupts power faster than the blink of an eye (1/40 of a second) to prevent a lethal shock of electricity. GFCI outlets protect against shocks from frayed wiring, appliances and tools with hazardous leakage levels and contact with dampness while using electrical appliances. GFCI receptacle outlets could possibly prevent a majority of the electrocutions, burn and electric shock injuries and electrical fires that occur each year in and around the home. They should be checked monthly be pushing the test button.


Bob, What's in a home inspection and how long does a home inspection take? Thanks, Nick
A. Nick, Professionally trained home inspectors assist you in maintaining the health of your home and an inspection makes home maintenance easy by catching small problems before they become big surprises. Hire an inspector to conduct a thorough examination of your home to detect any potential systems or components requiring attention. In just a few hours you'll have a detailed report of the condition of your home so that you can plan for needed repairs and upgrades when it's time to make them. A detailed inspection usually takes 2 to 3 hours or longer, depending on your home's age and square footage. You'll need to set up a time for your inspection so you can be present to ask questions and look at areas needing maintenance or repair. I encourage you to follow me around and ask a lot of questions. This is a huge investment and you should know exactly what you are buying! Thanks! 

 Safety Tips 

SHORTLY before Lynn Sugarman of Teaneck, N.J., bought her summer home in Lake George, N.Y., two years ago, a routine inspection revealed it had elevated levels of radon, a radioactive gas that can cause lung cancer. So she called a radon measurement and mitigation technician to find the source.
"He went from room to room," . But he stopped in his tracks in the kitchen, which had granite countertops. His Geiger counter indicated that the granite was emitting radiation at levels 10 times higher than those he had measured elsewhere in the house.
"My first thought was, my pregnant daughter was coming for the weekend," Sugarman said. When the technician told her to keep her daughter several feet from the countertops just to be safe, she said, "I had them ripped out that very day," and sent to the state Department of Health for analysis. The granite, it turned out, contained high levels of uranium, which is not only radioactive but releases radon gas as it decays.  

  

ASIAN LADY BEETLE INFESTATION

 People first started reporting large aggregations of lady beetles (ladybugs) on homes and buildings in Kentucky during the fall of 1993. Ladybugs are normally considered beneficial insects because they feed outdoors on aphids and other harmful plant pests. However, these beetles are congregating on the sides of buildings, and if given the opportunity, moving inside. Lady beetles do not sting or carry diseases, nor do they infest food, clothing, or wood. Nonetheless, this particular species (Harmonia axyridis) can become a nuisance when large numbers begin crawling on windows, walls, light fixtures, and other indoor surfaces. When disturbed, they also secrete a foul-smelling orange-colored fluid that can spot and stain walls, carpeting, and other surfaces.
Where Did They Come From? 

H. axyridis, sometimes known as the Asian Lady Beetle, is new to Kentucky. Our earliest records date back to a few specimens collected in Hickman County in 1992. The beetle is native to eastern Asia, where it is an important predator of scale and aphid pests on trees. Over the years, several states, including Georgia, Louisiana, Texas, Mississippi, Maryland, Ohio, and Pennsylvania, have attempted to establish the beetle as a natural control agent of agricultural pests. No such releases have ever been attempted in Kentucky, and their movement here is a natural migration from other states. The first specimens recovered in the United States were collected in Louisiana in 1988. Since then the beetle has increased its distribution to include most areas of the United States and parts of Canada.
Description and Habits
Adult Asian lady beetles are oval, convex, about 1/4-inch long, and pale yellow-orange to dark orange-red. They often have several black spots on the wing covers, although on some specimens the spots may be indistinct or entirely absent. Most specimens have a small, dark "M"-shaped marking on the whitish area directly behind the head.
Eggs are yellow, oval-shaped, and typically laid in clusters on the undersurfaces of leaves. The developing larvae are often red and black and shaped like tiny alligators. Larvae complete their development on plants where their food is abundant. The immobile pupal (cocoon) stage remains attached to vegetation by its molted skin, but occasionally may be found clinging to exterior
 walls and foundations of buildings. The average time from egg to adult is about one month, and there are multiple generations per year.
The millions of forested acres throughout Kentucky provide a vast habitat for H. axyridis, which is abundant on trees such as apple, pine, oak, maple, and yellow poplar. The beetle also inhabits ornamental and agricultural crops including roses and tobacco. Throughout the spring and summer, the larvae and adults feed mainly upon aphids.
Movement Into Buildings
As autumn approaches, the adult beetles are attracted to buildings or rock outcroppings (their natural aggregation sites) in search of protected places to overwinter. In Kentucky, movement to buildings generally begins in October, continuing through mid-November.
Preliminary research indicates that the beetles fly well above the tree tops, and are able to detect preferred aggregation sites from long distances (at least several hundred yards).
While the beetles tend to be more attracted to lighter colored buildings, illumination or brightness appears to be an even stronger attractant than color. For this reason, beetles tend to initially congregate on the sunnier (southwest) side of most buildings. Homes or buildings that are not brightly illuminated by sun, especially if shaded on the southwest side, are less likely to attract lady beetles.
Because the Asian lady beetle is a tree-dwelling insect, homes and buildings in forested areas are especially prone to infestation. Suburban and landscaped industrial settings adjacent to wooded areas have also had large lady beetle aggregations. Once the beetles land on the sunny side of the building, they attempt to locate cracks and other dark openings for hibernation sites. These locations may ultimately be on any side of the structure. Common overwintering sites include cracks and crevices around window and door frames, porches, garages and outbuildings, beneath exterior siding and roof shingles, and within wall voids, attics, and soffits. Structures in poor repair or with many cracks and openings are especially vulnerable to problems.
As temperatures warm in late winter and spring, the hibernating beetles once again become active. Adult reemergence often occurs sooner on the sunnier, southwest side of the structure. As the awakening beetles attempt to escape to their natural habitat outdoors, some inadvertently disperse inward through cracks and openings around door and window casings, underneath baseboards, from above false ceilings, and around light fixtures and ventilators. Since ladybugs are attracted to light, they are often drawn toward windows and light fixtures.
Lady Beetle Management
Lady beetles are very beneficial in nature because they help maintain landscape and agricultural pests at non-damaging levels. As spring approaches, beetles overwintering in and around structures will disperse outdoors to play an important role as beneficial insects. Lady beetles unable to find their way outside will eventually succumb to a lack of food and die.
As noted, lady beetles do not injure humans, nor can they breed or reproduce indoors like fleas or cockroaches. Nonetheless, some people will not tolerate insects of any kind in their homes. Hospitals, food processors, and similar hygienic establishments have zero tolerance for contaminants of any kind, including insects. Given these varying levels of tolerance, we offer the following management options.
Vacuuming-
The easiest way to remove ladybugs, once they are indoors, is with a vacuum cleaner. If you wish to subsequently release beetles outside place a handkerchief between the vacuum hose and the dust collection bag to act as a trap. A broom can also be used to remove beetles indoors, but is more likely to cause staining. (The orange-colored fluid that the beetles secrete when picked up or disturbed is harmless, but will stain walls and other surfaces.)
Pest Proofing-
Because H. axyridis seeks out overwintering sites in the fall, exterior cracks and openings can be sealed as a long-term, preventive measure.
Adjust or install tight-fitting door sweeps or thresholds at the bottom of all exterior entry doors. Gaps of 1/8" or less will permit entry of lady beetles and other insects. Garage door bottoms should be fitted with a bottom seal constructed of rubber (vinyl seals poorly in cold weather). Gaps under sliding glass doors may be sealed with foam weatherstripping.
Seal utility openings where pipes and wires enter the foundation and siding, e.g., around outdoor faucets, receptacles, gas meters, clothes dryer vents, and telephone/cable TV wires. Holes can be plugged with caulk, cement, urethane foam, steel wool, or copper mesh.
Caulk cracks around windows, doors, siding, and facia boards. Use a good quality silicone or siliconized acrylic latex caulk. Although somewhat less flexible than pure silicone, siliconized latex-type caulks clean up with water and are paintable. Caulks that dry clear are easier to use than pigmented ones because they cover mistakes.
Repair damaged window screens and install insect screening behind attic vents.

These practices will also help prevent entry of other pests, such as flies, mosquitoes, wasps, crickets, and spiders. Pest proofing further helps to conserve energy and increases the comfort level during winter and summer. 

Insecticides

Indoor Treatment. Insecticide foggers or sprays are generally not recommended for eliminating lady beetles indoors. Beetles need to be sprayed directly, or have to crawl over treated surfaces, in order for the insecticide to be effective. Such applications create pesticide residues on walls, countertops, and other exposed surfaces. A vacuum cleaner is more sanitary and effective. Attempting to kill overwintering lady beetles in wall voids is difficult and rarely justified. Large numbers of dead insects in these areas also may attract carpet beetles and other pests of food and fiber. 

Limited use of indoor insecticides may be warranted, but only in specific locations for immediate relief of heavy infestations. Aerosol-type foggers containing synergized pyrethrins might be used in attics or outbuildings, for example, but these provide negligible control of beetles that have not yet emerged from cracks, wall voids, and other protected locations. Large numbers of beetles accumulating in enclosed ceiling light fixtures would suggest the attic as a possible treatment area, but, as mentioned, insecticides are not generally recommended for treating occupied areas.

 

Exterior Treatment.
While sealing openings is the more permanent way to deny beetle entry, comprehensive pest proofing is time-consuming and sometimes impractical. There are often too many cracks under and around eaves, siding, vents, etc., where beetles can potentially enter a home. On multi-story buildings, sealing becomes still more difficult.
If a household or business continues to be infested by lady beetles, owners can enlist the services of a professional pest control firm. Many companies offer insecticide treatment of the building exterior, which helps to prevent pest entry. Fast-acting, residual formulations of synthetic pyrethroids (e.g., cypermethrin, cyfluthrin, lambda cyhalothrin, and deltamethrin) can be applied around eaves, attic vents, windows, doors, siding, and other likely points of pest entry. The key is to initiate such treatments in late September or early October, before the beetles enter buildings to overwinter. Once the beetles are indoors (i.e., winter/early-spring), such treatments would be ineffective.
Closing Remarks

Lady beetle infestation of homes and buildings is a sporadic event. It is not yet known what percentage of homes and buildings currently experiencing problems will again be infested the following year. Vacuuming and sealing are the preferred methods of dealing with lady beetles infesting structures in Kentucky. Insecticides should be considered only when the situation warrants, and prescribed as indicated above. 


 
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