American Board of Certified Haircolorists Newsletter     April
By Andre Nizetich
Tom Dispenza, Don't Miss Him!

Tom Dispenza will be put his haircoloring skills on display at the Energizing Summit, Held on June 13,14.  If you have never seen Tom this is your chance.
           Tom Dispenza is a brillant haircolorist!  haircolorists travel from all over the world to learn from him.  He is regarded as one of the leading haircolorists in the United States.  Tom explains it this way, "Knowing how products work is one of the most important aspects of coloring hair.  There is an entire world of information and techniques that most haircolorists never experience.  Haircolor should be kept simple, yet elegant" To hear Tom speak is worth the price of admission,

           Here are some of the questions he will answer for you.  Whats really important when coloring hair?  Ingredients, Formulation and Effect.  Tom will explain why the better the ingredients the healthier the hair.  The better the formula the longer lasting the color.  How does product really effect the hair.  Learn more in his hour and a half class than you have ever learned before.  Do red colors, blondes, and brunettes and gray coverage better than ever before.
                    Tom Dispenza with some of his models

European Master Takes the Stage at the Summit

       Gerd Hoher a European trained haircolorist will make his debut at the Energizing Summit.  He specializes in the blending of haircolors.  According to Gerd, "The blending of haircolors is incredibly important in today's competitive environment.  The color placement on the head can render a a beautiful flowing result or it can become a stiff rigid unflattering look.  It is all determined by the placement and the contrasting colors used". Take this opportunity to witness the artistry of applying haircolors using foils as well as free form applications. According to Gerd,  "Among the most beautiful blends are mixing reds and browns.  Once learned you can adapt this knowledge to a great variety of haircolors and styles".  This is a class that gives you the opportunity to interface with a master in a hands on environment.  The ability to watch a master then emulate what he does an opportunity that only comes once in a lifetime.  Gerd is one of the most talented haircolorists in the country.  Don't miss the opportunity to take his class.  You will be using a brand new line of haircolor just introduced to the industry last year.  ARTEASE haircolor is receiving rave reviews, especially for its red shades.
By Andre Nizetich              
Double Pigment
Haircolor What
Does it Mean?

             The first time I heard the term "double pigment" was from the lips of Leland Hirsch, the founder of Artec color line.  Leland introduced a line of color shampoos to the industry.  He did not invent the color shampoo concept Clairol did with the introduction of "Shimmer Lights"  At the time Leland worked for Clairol putting together the color line which is now Logics.  According to Leland he suggested to Clairol they market a line of color shampoos using the same formulations as "Shimmer Lights".  Clairol was not interested so he embarked on his own with Artec Shampoo.  In a variety of "flavors". Artec was a big hit and as is often the case he followed with shampoos (non pigmented) and styling aids. 
      Then came the big move, he saved his money and introduced a line of haircolor.  He had the distribution and a big following so why not haircolor.  It was called ENAMELS and received luke warm response from the industry so he came up with the concept of "Our haircolors have double pigments"  This concept aroused a lot of chatter from the industry and so he picked up more sales.  At that point L'Oreal took notice, purchased Artec and that was the end of the ENAMELS line of haircolor.
         That may have been the end of Artec haircolor but not the end of double pigmentation term.  Noting Artec's success several other manufacturers picked up on the marketing term. When we did the 6N comparison we received both 6N and 6NN Redken Color Fusion.  At the conclusion of the comparson when reviewing the colors the Redken 6NN was darker than the 6N.  That makes sense, double pigments would give you a darker color.  We decided to color more swatches to determine the purpose of the 6NN.  So we purchased 6N, 5N and 6NN and colored swatches.  We used Yak hair and colored two swatches one with generic 20 volume peroxide and the other with Redken 40 volume peroxide.

          The swatches and colors were laid out and carefully measured for consistent results. The swatches were saturated and timed.

           As the swatches processed it was noted the colors oxidized in the same tones.  In speaking to a former educator for Redken he noted the 6NN was developed for better gray coverage.  When a haircolorist noted the lack of gray coverage with the 6N the educator would suggest using 6NN.  When asked why they would not suggest using 5N, their response was, I do not want the hair to be darker. 
         We also colored some gray hair swatches that were 30% gray to determine the gray coverage on these swatches. The swatches came from the same head.
        The Hairart company provided us with real human gray hair. We only colored the three strands using generic 20 volume cream peroxide.

        The results of all of the colors are shown on this board. The gray hair has a control strand on the left followed by 6N, 5N then 6NN. The same with the Yak swatches.  There are 2 swatches of each color on the Yak swatches.  The generic 20 volume peroxide color is on the left the 40 volume pro-oxide is on the right.  The 40 volume swatch is lighter and does not afford as good coverage.  The 5N is lighter than the 6NN.  Note the dramatic difference in color when the haircolor is applied to pigmented with 30% gray hair as opposed to Yak hair.  What did we learn?  6NN is darker than 6N, it is also darker than 5N.  This is only one manufacturers line of haircolors, other manufacturers 6N and 6NN can vary.  Anyone wanting to have their color tested just send it  to the ABCH office.  I sent this newsletter again so you fully understand the double pigment concept.  When using any color, if you use a lower volume peroxide and leave the color on the hair 10 minutes longer you will have better coverage.  Using less peroxide with the haircolor will also give you better coverage.  Be prepared for a slightly darker color if you use any of these methods.  No need to buy more color inventory. 
by Mary Petello

     Ombré Vogue

      Marketing 101 teaches that fashion cycles can be broken down into styles, fashions, and fads. Trends refer to forecasting for the next season or commenting on the current status. Fashion trends are developed as marketing strategies.  In hair, styles are classics, which never truly go away but may cycle up and down in popularity, such as the bob. Fashions are shorter lived and can be quite common but usually fad away slowly until they are no longer "fashionable", such as the bouffant in the '60's, poodle perms in the '70s, and crimping in the '80's. Fads are the shortest lived and never become widespread, even though they may seem quite recognizable and  trendy, like grunge hair.
         One of the latest trends that may pan out to be a fad, was originally introduced as a type of fabric shading known as ombré, a French term for a gradual shading of tones from light to dark. This fabric was popular on the fashion runways of 2008 and in late 2009 was reinvented in haircolor. Ombré haircolor appeared in many versions, originally interpreted with dark roots with a gradual segue into light ends (Nicole Ritchie or Rose Byrne.) This effect gives a beachy, sun-lightened appearance through well-placed balayaged
Dr. Hayel Said .
highlights to blend seamlessly the lightened ends into the darker base.
       Ombré haircolor has also been reinvented into the reverse coloring combination in the new cool-toned or faux gray haircolor mentioned in a previous ABCH article. Drew Barrymore tried this look last fall with two inches of black on the tips of ber blonde hair. Several weeks later, she reappeared with her hair two
Trisha Kemp
inches shorter, sans the "fad". Stylist Kate Shillingford showed off a modern look with bleach blonde roots that blended into blue then black on the ends. The razored wispy cut on her fine hair makes this work.
Sometimes haircolorists unintentionally create an ombré haircolor, which requires color correction. Overly porous hair, Grades 4 and 5,

Craig Miller

will reject warm tones and grab cool tones. To learn more about the "Porosity Grading System", take Layla Rodriguez's class. To learn how to correct unwanted tones in haircolor, Jesse Skittrall offers "Correcting Haircolor Disasters". To learn to control all types of bleach, Craig Miller's class, "Knowing and Understanding Bleaches", will give you the necessary information. Swimmer's hair can
Jessee Skittrall
look like a green version of ombré haircolor and Trisha Kemp's class "Guarantee Color and Color Correction" will teach you about chelating treatments.
Porosity Has Everything to do
With the Success of Haircolor

          There is a great deal of confusion surrounding porosity.  What is it and what does it do to haircolor.  Currently the ABCH are the only curriculum that makes a stab at defining porosity.  In the early days of haircoloring if the color didn't take as it should the educator would say the hair is too porous.  Yet other time the educator would excuse the poor color result as the hair not being porous enough.
           The ABCH study portfolio devotes an entire chapter to porosity.  What causes it and how it effects the haircolor being applied.  One thing for certain the hair with any length does not have equal porosity from the hair closest to
Grade 1
the scalp to the ends.  Thia Spearing, one of the first board members and one of the haircolorists who was responsible for helping write the study portfolio did a wonderful job of defining the various grades of porosity.  Layla Rodrequez will be teaching the porosity class at the Energizing Summit.  We encourage manufacturers to use
Grade 2
the ABCH system of defining porosity, thus far no one has.  one thing that is consistent about haircolor curriculums is they are all different.
          The ABCH curriculum defines porosity into grades from 1 to 5.  Grade 1 is virgin hair, grade 2 is hair that has been exposed to excessive sunlight, one application of tint or abuse of heat styling instruments.  grade 3 is hair that has been exposed to several applications of tint, with the cuticle becoming severely
Grade 4
abraded.   Grade 4 some of the cuticle has shredded away and the condition is compromised.  Grade 5 the hair is severely damaged and has lost most of the elasticity.  These definitions a just a abbreviated version of defining the porosity grading system.  In Layla's class you will learn to better understand how porosity
Grade 5
works with haircolor and how to identify and control porosity.  There is much more to porosity than meets the eye.  Take Layla's class and become the haircolorist you want to be.
L'Oreal Launches New Haircolor at Americas Beauty Show
A New Concept of Mixing and Processing Haircolors, Not Available Yet For Testing

         Instead of just mixing two components together you mix three.  The pigments which comes in a small one fourth inch tube.  The idea is to prevent waste.  The sales person says, "who wants all of those half tubes of color hanging around that nobody wants to use?" If there is a way to waste color the haircolorist will find it.  Since when did L'Oreal start to worry about wasting product.  They pay their rent by haircolorists flushing color down the drain. There is no hint of an ammonia smell, it actually smells rather pleasant.  It is priced at a hefty $8.44 for one application.  In this economy and with salons dropping like flies, it seems like a bad time to launch a pricey haircolor.  Can't wait to test it, should be interesting.
Thanks for reading our newsletter, we will keep you updated on what is new in the industry as well as give opinions from some of the ABCH Board of Directors as well as some of the members.
Andre Nizetich President