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The US Gymnastic Team
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The New Beauty
Barring natural disasters, it's not often that those who are living the daily zeitgeist are consciously aware of the exact moment when profound change happens. But it did this month during the Olympics -- the 2012 Olympics when women from many countries absolutely triumphed! If you grew up with the expectation that A. asking permission or B. morphing into a clich� image were THE operative techniques, then you knew physical ability was the last barrier. The fashion industry has too eagerly put a premium on impossibly thin and helpless, impossibly beautiful, impossibly supportive -- all the feminine stereotypes that dictated our previous choices in life, selling "appearance' a zillion ways and leaving us with few options. It is inevitable that this new 'agency' of women will force change on the fashion/beauty industry. We can look forward to less fashion typecasting, adding intelligence and accomplishment to a pleasant appearance. Stay tuned and, in the Olympic style, focus on abilities, learning and being who you are. Thank you to all the Olympic women who have helped us reach a new tipping point and proved what we always knew.
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Out There . . .
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  Less Fashion Typecasting 2.0: OK, so who's not thinking about how she's going to look later, a little or a lot later. Fret not -- a cavalry exists, coming to the rescue with lessons! We welcome Advanced Style and Old Ladies Rebellion, two new websites with the lovely mission to separate who you are from the cultural stereotype of age -- just in time, whew!
- Zero Waste News. MySoma Patterns. The very-French Sylvie Privat has launched in her new zero waste pattern company, the very first one out there! She has the neuro-gift for figuring out ZW for the rest of us, so shop and enjoy -- sustainable is now do-able! The only way conserving waste makes enough difference to the environment is if lots and lots of people sew clothes with ZW patterns. Try them out and make a difference.
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 Albert Einstein's Blouse. Just to show you that some great minds can't resist figuring out how clothes work! From the US Patent Office, 1936. Note those adjustable buttons and no sleeves. Alas, he has no website. 
- 600 year old bra. Four of them were discovered, confirming suspicions. When teaching fashion history of the Middle Ages, I couldn't believe the fitted clothes of that era somehow went over a bra-less figure -- those shapes were just too good. And now we know for sure that pattern design in the 1400's covered everything!
 Multi-Multi Purpose. Boditecture, a new company in San Francisco by Wen Guo, designer and founder. She has conceived a line of convertible clothing -- it turns into other garments (while walking along, even) so you need half as much stuff, can travel half as light and spend half as much too. Just like Superwoman in a phone booth -- if you can find a phone booth.
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 A Natural Fit. Raf Simons now at Dior. Personally, Mr. Simons is a great relief -- he doesn't do over-the-top. He comes to Dior with the concept that it is possible for "Modern Couture" clothing to be worn everyday for many years by people from all walks. This single, universal Big Idea is what earned the mid-20th C. the title, The Golden Age of Couture. It is not about money or consuming; it is about knowledge, taste and care and those who couldn't spend, sewed and dressed very skillfully. Read Colin McDowell's column about Simons arrival at Dior.
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 Why So Much Vintage? Check this article, The Art and Science of Valuing Vintage. A good read, by Rebecca Tay in London, on why it just refuses to go away and gets more valuable (and worn!) all the time. It is the strongest influence on fashion design in the culture now. Items often have an unmistakeable level of quality in craft and design that is, unfortunately, lacking in much contemporary ready-to-wear. And, (see pattern word in the next section) it just plain says more about the woman.
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The Textile Clothing Technology Corp. (TC2) has 3 new classes to help you make money in the fashion industry -- it's that simple. The whole US fashion industry depends on them to solve problems -- they are the BEST! New classes include: Pattern, Grade and Marker Development, October 1-3,
Fit for Retailers: Pants, October 15-16 & Intro to Apparel Manufacturing, October 22-26
- Out of Japan Comes Our Own Past. After WWII, Japan was occupied by many guys from midwestern farms, US factories and small towns everywhere. They brought their jeans, jackets, work shirts and can-do mindsets. It started a trend in work clothes in Japan that continues today, now made beautifully by Japanese companies. Here is one: Workers. Just fish around in their site and note the cut and the details -- really nice. You can send Takashi Tateno an email with questions. P.S. The Harry Simons books are bibles for this world.
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In Here . . .
- Great news! Romeo Gigli is back! Gigli is one of the great Italian
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Vionnet's Roses.
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architectural cutters who always had genius ideas and we've missed him. He's designing for Joyce now. Here is his coat this season with a rose-smothered collar. Those roses are our Vionnet Roses -- she also smothered a collar.
- Next Gen! We are putting up a Next Generation Gallery with an album for each of
 its  star graduates from design schools. The first batch is from the  Savannah College of Art and Design and features Cynthanie Sumpter, Christian Harris, and Dameneet Guru -- respectively, on the right. They are so terrific! Now do your part and spread the word about their talents so they can get started and we can wear their wonderful clothes!
- New Patterns -- but first, a word. How should we characterize our patterns? Some say they are vintage, some pattern puzzles and some just bias-central. Everyone is right. The patterns are often inspired by a novel or unique cutting idea and many are bias cut, but some are just fun mysteries with a wonderful surprise at the end. The consistent point is to teach pattern design, so if it has a lesson, it gets the
 go-ahead. The sub-mission is to emphasize style over fashion; therefore, many of them leap through decades. Style portrays the person, fashion portrays the trend, therefore I focus on designs that make real women look more than interesting. Here is one new pattern and one new how-to:
- The CJ Mantle, inspired by Charles James' famous piece. It's a simple piece of drama, with one pattern piece, forming the shawl and collar at the same time -- great for evening, day and even rain. The sash draws it to fit and it's reversible. Thank you Mr. James.
- The Measure Coat Instructions. This bias coat, dress, blouse, beach cover, etc., etc. is a piece of
  magic. Not only can it be anything you name it but the  pattern is plotted directly from 7 measurements you take on the spot. There is no way it can't fit and be well proportioned for everyone. Here are the instructions for the pattern process. I've done it over the years in knits, upholstery silks, pleated yardage, sheers and even king size sheets that we dye-rollered in the driveway! (right) Looks great and fits well no matter what. I've even worn the tie-collar version (far right) as a long wrap skirt with the sleeves inverted to be like pockets -- wacky but cool! 
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Good Business & Good Thinking . . .
 Blue is the New Black: The 10 Step Guide to Developing and Producing a Fashion Collection by Susie Breuer. This is an excellent definitive guide to everything you didn't know that you desperately need to know in order to make and sell clothes -- and keep'em sold!
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 Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion by Elizabeth Kline, a woman on an important mission. If this book doesn't cure you of the temptation to buy a cheapie for every date night -- you are hopeless. Solve the naked problem a zillion other ways than bottom trolling for fast fashion. Read the background for the book and send her some thanks for writing it. AND, check her list for all the Slow Fashion sites -- shop there.
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And Now . . .
Ending as we began, with those lessons from Joyce, who makes 'older' easy and beautiful, a true model in all ways.
Soon I'll be at the Textile Center in Minneapolis with Draping Beyond Tradition. Love that place -- see you there if you're in the neighborhood!
Sandy Ericson
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