What is "An Eye"?

February 2012
Recently a friend who is learning to drape asked about acquiring "an eye".  The question is difficult since the answer is personal and involves seeing and sensing at the same time. Having an eye means that you are perceiving more than what is visually in front of you -- it is tonal, much like language and music are.  One must perceive unique visual tones and   interpret them -- the most powerful ones fit the current zeitgeist or a quality intrinsic to human nature.
 
The second thing an eye requires is a clear vision against which you are weighing your impressions -- it might be a standard of performance or a design goal.  Being able to successfully balance your interpretations against such a benchmark and make 'a good call' is what makes your eye valuable.

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A Special Note About Changes at the Center for Pattern Design:
Within the next month we will be converting to a new website format, streamlining categories and making everything much easier to find.  Along with this change we will be changing this newsletter to a blog format, again for easier use.  Everyone who currently receives the newsletter will receive an RSS feed when there is a new post in the blog so no need to make any changes to continue receiving pattern news.
 
New Ideas!
  • Muuse.  This is a relatively new site that shows a wonderful collection of new designers and their work for purchase. The great thing is that whoever curates it seems to gravitate toward the cut of the cloth so most pieces have terrific pattern concepts.
  • F.I.T.  Many of the best collections are archived online and this spring F.I.T. puts theirs up for our great pleasure.  In case you haven't 'shopped' the stored and auctioned collections for fantastic design ideas, the golden age for that is happening now!  For years F.I.T. had a Design Lab which all the designers haunted for inspiration and the fee to belong was a test -- but now we can all imagine and enjoy.  Here is another site to 'shop' for auction images: Artfact -- they are a collection of auctions coming up..  
  • A Shared Passion for Fashion.  As the economy springs to life again, new forms of business emerge and for the fashion industry it would be well to pay attention to the co-ops that are making it possible for start-ups to start up and design geniuses to make it even though money is the last thing on their minds.  Check out this one (west coast) and this one (east cost). Take notes. This is all helped by new tax laws that enable such co-ops to be a hybrid between a for-profit and a non-profit! 
  • Dressing to Get Ahead.  They haven't changed, the realities are still the same -- for a great overview (and maybe big news to the newest members of the work force) see the Art Institutes newsletter! 
@ CFPD
 
CFPD Patterns  

 Draped in the stye of the best pattern designers for current lifestyles and proportions.     

  • MV Egg Hat.  Inspired by Madeleine Vionnet, this pattern is is a single pattern piece cut on the bias that can be worn so many ways and in so many fabrics.  It packs flat and takes an hour to make!  It is shown with the CB Top Coat, inspired by Balenciaga and coming next month.
  • CB Spiral Top.  Also a Balenciaga inspiration which is making its public debut after many versions in my own closet.  This too is bias cut and a single pattern piece with a spiral seam down the sleeve.  This ties for my all-time favorite pattern ever.   
The CB Circle Coat
The CB Paletot on the MySize Barbie

These next two patterns are an experiment to see if there is any interest in half- scale fashion patterns.  Inspired by Balenciaga, they were draped and developed for the MySize Barbie doll, the 36" doll which we convert to a half scale dress form with a form cover.  Many teachers, designers and dress makers are now using these for showing samples and developing new designs. Both are based upon Balenciaga's famous coats and they can be easily enlarged for full scale.  

 

   CFPD Events

  • Vionnet at Kwantlen University, Vancouver BC, May 5-6.  I'll be teaching 2-days of the Vionnet gown from the Draping Series with additional Vionnet samples, instructional materials and accessories.
  • Sabine David in San Francisco, June 23-25, teaching the internationally highly respected German Rundschau system of drafting to measure.  Registration opens in April and I'm going to be the first to sign up!  Check Sabine's world.
  • The Draping Series resumes with St. Laurent's Le Smoking in San Francisco in early August (date pending).  Registration opens in June.  For new subscribers to this newsletter, this Draping Series is based upon the iconic couture designs in Draping, The Art and Craftsmanship of Fashion Design by Annette Duburg and Rix vander Tol, a fabulous book which we import from Europe.
  • The Textile Center in Minneapolis in September.  I'll be doing a week of Draping Series and other adventures in a series of classes.   

 CFPD Books:

   

New Books from the Unusual Department -- odd but unique patterns! 
Due out in the Fall  . . .

  • Lantern Making by HA Rankin.  With a side look to 'other' patterns that make 3-D forms, this rare book is all the patterns for Chinese lanterns  -- it's mind-candy for pattern designers. Please let me know if you are interested in flat patterns for unusual forms -- there are lots from boxes to bibs, toys to top hats!  
  • Tip-Top Tapping, from the Easy Instructor Series of Ballroom Dancing.  This is a treasure for tappers and we'll combine it with THE patterns for the classic tap pant and top, crucial to proper tapping!
  • Paper Flower Patterns  -- Voila!  These patterns make any annual a perennial!  And they are marvelous wearables! 

                                                 

Back to Clothes

  • The Haslam System of Dressmaking by Miss G. A. Haslam, a short sweet straightforward system for drafting to measure in wide variety of styles.  It was originally designed to be used at home and simplified for that purpose.

News Note:  The School of Subtraction Cutting by Julian
Roberts will go out of print after the last 100 copies are sold.  

Happening Elsewhere . . .
  • Creative Cut Symposium, Feb 6-7, 2013 at University of Huddersfield, UK. April 1, 2012 in the deadline for abstracts. Papers will be published in the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, Volume 6, Issue 2, published in July 2013.  This symposium will examine in depth all aspects of unconventional pattern design.   Learn more . . . 
  • From Sidewalk to Catwalk, the Fashion World of Jean-Paul Gaultier is the much awaited exhibition opening at the De Young in SF next month.  And to go with, a very reasonable book at $25, A Memoire on the History and Iconic Fashion of Jean-Paul Gaultier by Farid Chenoune, at Assouline.  
  • Slow Fiber Trip to Japan with Yoshiko Wada.  This trip is a chance to see the best with the best.  Yoshiko Wada is at the top of the pyramid in the shibori world and is truly one of our National Treasures. She has led legendary trips to Japan for decades. If you are a surface designer, this trip will complete you.    

 

  • The TexProcess Show,  Atlanta, Georgia.  This is THE show for those who are ready for the big time -- production, money, machinery, tech, the works!  It is where you go to figure out the next plateau of your fashion manufacturing adventures -- includes European resources too -- you'll meet the world there.    

 

 

And now for a good laugh as I finish this one . . . 

 

Mary Martin Fashion Pantomine!  Totally funny and a genius at work!    

Mary Martin 1953 
Mary Martin 1953


Until next month, hopefully in blog format -- in the meantime, think it up and cut it out! 

Sandy Ericson