January 2012 
  2012, What's The Point?
The point is a beautiful rose from flat ordinary paper ~ 

The point is the importance of cut and structure.  In clothing construction, creating structure means creating patterns for three dimensional forms into which we place our bodies, for comfort, to belong, to proclaim an identity, establish status, advertise beliefs and many other reasons.  The cut of the pattern makes all these goals possible by limiting impressions to those desired.  The interesting thing is that understanding structure and it's importance in dress and enables one to apply that understanding to the intangibles of social structure as well. 

In this election year of national assessment and economic recovery, look closely at the structure of our society, think about how the pattern we each design in our own location forms our communal structure.  Just like we strive to present our best sartorial 'look' to the world, we should also present our best  society to the world.  Structurally, a look isn't about a single sleeve just as a society isn't about a single person.  It's about the whole piece -- the entire structure that we all live within.  It is the cut of the whole rose.
 For Your Library

The Fashion Design System:   

  • Invented, written and published by Maciej Henneberg, PhD., DCS and Wood Jones, Professor of Anatomy, University of Adelaide, Australia.  Here is the key difference in this publication:  "This book is a result of a major conceptual breakthrough, moving away from 'size' classification to 'shape' classification of female garments."  The book and the system, which they teach, calculates the skeletal dimensions and contours of women rather than the artificial classifications of size.  Serious stuff but could make a drafter out of anyone if you could nail the fit right away -- what drafting does.

From Blackwell Publishing:

  • Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting by Winifred Aldrich -- This was first published in the UK in 1996 but I'm certain it's still a big secret to many.  Winifred Aldrich is one of the most taught authors in the pattern world and this book is one of her best.  It illustrates and analyzes the complex relationship between fabric behavior, the cut and the silhouette of the design with lots of photos, diagrams, charts and excellent instructions.  It even has 1/4 scale patterns!  The book is a complete winner.  

 From Chronicle Books

  • Pattern Magic - Stretch Fabrics by Tomoko Nakamichi -- This is the third in the series and just as wild as the first two, examining all the ways you can work stretch into completely original effects. It is in English and has a free pattern in it. (For those who wish Mrs. Nakamichi would teach in the US -- we tried but were not able to convince her to make the trip.) 
  • Drape Drape by Hisako Sato -- The latest book in this draping series with 17 designs and a free pattern.  It has easy, simple pieces with big impact.  
  • DIY Couture by Rosie Martin -- Really clueless about patterns, sewing fabrics, but passionate about fashion? This is for you!  It has 10 pieces done in endless variations, using "templates" from your own clothes -- great place to start and look amazing right off.
  • Color Forecasting for Industry by Kate Scully and Debra Johnston Cobb -- This is for the clued-in industry types who need to know how to place their bets.  Chronicle also has the Trend Forecasters Handbook by Martin Raymond to go with --  between the two, you've just spent a serious semester in a good fashion program!
  • Footwear Design by Aki Choklat -- There is hardly anything out there that gives us some of the technical side of shoe design -- anatomy, angles and all.  This book will inspire you to get through the frustration of endless prototypes!
  • Fashion and Sustainability - Design for Change by Kate Fletcher and Linda Gross -- This book is nothing short of being the bible for the future of the fashion industry -- it has the new ground rules.  It redefines business models, key roles and the true cost of clothing. (BTW, the biggest problem to moving forward is refusing to let go of the past, not fear of the future.  Please, let it go, resolve to change, save the planet and learn to do things differently.)   

Most of these are new and not yet out but coming soon --  Check here for availability from Chronicle Books in 2012!    
  Happening Here
irst, a plea:  In our new world of sustainable practices, there is a big need for someone to design a re-useable garment carrier  to pick up the dry cleaning -- like we do for grocery shopping.  The huge plastic bags that are used for a few minutes and then thrown away are a dreadful ecological practice but dry cleaners can't return the garment uncovered since, if it is soiled on the way, they may be blamed.  Save these folks, and all of us (profitably!) with a simple (keyword here), re-useable dry cleaning bag.

Events Coming Up This Year, So Far:
  • Sabine David will travel from Vancouver, Canada, June 23, 24, 25 to give us a fabulous weekend (2.5 days) of drafting instruction.  This is hardly ever taught in the US even though you can have the fit of your dreams by learning how to measure and design custom patterns.  Most of the world makes patterns this way but now our public is becoming aware of the importance of custom fit and drafting is the best way to go.  Sabine teaches the Rundschau method from Germany and was the translator for their only English book, Metric Patternmaking for Jackets and Coats (the core of tailoring businesses for centuries in Europe).  This is perfect for men and women who would like to develop a tailoring clientele.  Registration will go up online 2 months prior. 
  • A favorite stop -- I'll be at Kwantlen University in Vancouver in May to teach selected designs from the Designer Draping Series. To participate in the class contact Evelyn May, Dept. Chair. 
  • At the Textile Center in Minneapolis in September I'll be teaching even more of the Draping Series classes there too.  Check out their programs and events! 
    See the Gallery classes for Series samples.  
  • In the Bay Area, finding a place to teach has been problematic given rising rents, costs of travel for students, etc. but it looks like there may be a great spot coming up late Spring on Sacramento St. in SF -- sooo perfect for everything.  If that works, I'll continue the series with St. Laurent's Le Smoking pantsuit first in line.  That one will cover pants for the first time and also employ Alan LeBlanc's pli de souplesse information on the jacket. 

New Patterns:   

  • Complex Concepts:  This new group of patterns, coming out this spring, is based upon cuts made famous by Balenciaga, Dior, Poiret, Vionnet and many others.  They have been draped and cut in the fashion of the best but adapted to current fit.  They will focus on the cut and are better defined as "educational" patterns, meant to illustrate concepts and techniques for intermediate/advanced pattern and sewing people. The first two are half scales:  the CB Circle Coat and the CB Paletot, both inspired by Balenciaga. These fit the MySize Barbie Doll with the linen form cover.  You can see the doll and the cover here.  These are great for classroom use and for working out construction and fabric issues before full scale -- see the Gallery classes for samples.  
    Patterns will begin next month in our store.  

   New Service:   

  • Custom Sloper Service:  Still testing this idea but it looks like we'll be able to offer custom patterns for basic slopers/blocks for flat pattern design.  You receive measuring instructions and send the numbers -- we send you the pattern.  It will still need to be fitted (posture gets in the way) but it will be a good basic custom block for design and fit variations.

  From the Rest of the Worldaaa
  • Draping Shots - Perfection:  From Felipa Bergaņa on the Behance Network we are privileged to see her work draping a Vionnet and a Dior.  For teachers out there, be sure to show it to students --  point out those exquisitely stitched grain lines that are on grain! 
  • IZ Adaptive Clothing:  An adaptive clothing line created by Canadian Fashion Designer, Izzy Camilleri. This new and revolutionary line of handicapped high fashion has been specifically designed for seated clientele.  The cuts  not only follow the line of the body, but also eliminates fabric bulk from front, sides and back.  This is a breakthrough site from the standpoint of pattern designers and niche fashion businesses.  
  • Zero Waste From Loomstate:  One of the very first commercial production Zero Waste garments, an anorak, which was developed with Timo Rissanen at Parsons.  Get on board with Zero Waste -- learn the system, save a ton of money on fabric and waste and make nice profit on both ends!  
  • Embodee:  Finally, those animators are getting practical!  From the movie guys (The Matrix) we get a new way to use 3-D visualizations so we can virtually 'try on' anything in any store who participates in the system.  It really works!  Go to their site, try the demo and say Amen!   
  • UPcload:  Short for uploading clothes -- your clothes! As they say, " Get measured once with UPcload and then shop anywhere.  Your private UPcload profile is your passport to finding great fitting clothes online."  You need a webcam on your computer and then you hold a disk for calibration. Their photographic algorithms enable you to be measured within a fraction of an inch.  We are in touch and will let you know when it is ready for pattern designer use.   
  • Valentino Has Really Done It This Time: 
    He has created an actual-virtual (is that possible?) museum that you can 'walk' through.  One could almost say that it is better than the 'real' thing -- almost, the detail is incredible and the production is stunning.  Go to the Valentino Museum this afternoon . . . you'll wind up spending the night in there.  

Then there is Tthe Textile Center's 12th WORLD'S LARGEST TEXTILE GARAGE SALE on Sat., April 14, 8-4 --  Preview Sale Fri. night.  If you had a small production company, you could go there and buy everything you needed for the year!  Their events draw crowds and the Garage Sale is in a warehouse!  Watch their site for info, coming soon. 
 

 



















Latest CFPD Books

  

1.  Harry Simons: Two drafting volumes
for men by one of the most followed commercial tailors  in the pre-ready-to-wear years.  Those were the years
when everyone wore custom clothing every day simply because there was no other choice -- these books made it possible. 

I know, you think drafting is hard -- it's   

not. If you have enough patience for a good cross-word puzzle, you can draft a shirt  from measurements.    

 

  

 

  



 2.  Then there is  Designer Diagonals 
by Virginia West -- it's like a whole book
of cool bias stuff just done with rectangles of fabric!

   

 

3.  Then, two sustainable fashion books:  

For me, these were really about using  

those fabulous fabrics found hiding in dated styles in the thrift stores -- fine  

English wools ($80-$100/yd.) in men's suits, rare silks in the skirts of ancient ball gowns.  A  shame to waste!  

 

  
  

4.  To make your generational obligation fun and easy -- the one where you teach  

a young person to sew -- there is Home Sewing Is Easy by Sally Stitch.  This is not about slipcovers.  It's a little book to teach beginners of every age how to sew at home.  

 



It's fun, really easy and charming with color illustrations on every page -- AND, you can really learn (and teach ) sewing from this gem!  It would be so great for sewing classes as a wonderful little text -- follow the process through the book and you have a class and a dress -- it's a serious sewing book!    

    

 

 

A NEW YEAR'S PRESENT  

FOR YOU!

  

Read this draping lesson very carefully three times. The brilliance of the whole thing will be apparent after two times --  

the last one is for entertainment. This is  

from Pattern and Dress Design by Eddy  

and Wiley, 1932, It is the secret to draping shaped bias seams -- yum yum! (Note that the direction of the shaping is the same grain direction as the bias of the skirt)   

  
 

  

" DRAPING A CIRCULAR SKIRT WITH A SHAPED TOP 

  

1.  The material is pinned high on the form to allow for the irregularity of the top.  this is placed for a design cut down on the sides.  The material may be placed lower on the form if the design is cut up on the sides. 

  

2.  A paper pattern the exact shape of the design is pinned on the form in the position desired.  Note that the flare of the skirt throws fullness to the line of the design.  Cut off enough on the bottom of the paper pattern to give a seam allowance on the skirt when it is cut. 

  

3.  Cutting the top of the skirt by following the line of the paper pattern.  The fullness must be fitted out as one cuts.  If one is not sure of the line, cut in under the pattern until the flare can be smoothed out and rearranged. " (Ad hatch marks as you cut)






 
 


Here's Julian Roberts' new video from a recent performance at the Danish Design School -- it's bursting with new ideas and pattern concepts that just flow out of his head -- hit 'pause' a lot and take notes!  We are working on a SubCut class on the east coast this year -- not set yet.
Vidunder Generationen 
Vidunder Generationen
   
Last words . . . 
Blink by Malcom Gladwell
 
There are some books, frankly, that need to be read by everyone just because. 
I recently found .  You know those two seconds when you meet someone and you instantly know whether  'it's' going to work or not?  Well, Blink tells you why that is
and you can apply it to instant intuitive design decisions too.  Check out his other
books also -- he loves to boil things down to proven realities, without sneaky biases,
so you can make better decisions.

                                 And now for the Big 2012 Resolution: 
Employ creativity instead of past practice,
(aka, going to the freezer and getting the box).

In this new time, to the creative go the spoils and it will be so for the rest of the Century.  Each century uses the first 10-15 years to 'cast the die' and then the play begins.  This 21st play is beginning now and the willingness to solve problems in new ways is its hallmark -- make it yours. 

Always think, how else can we make this work?
Then enjoy,
Sandy