New for Fall!

August 2011

Frances and me with the old 'wrap-around' Cessna 152.

The Flight Plan

For evolving societies like ours, there is a point when the past is really past. Luxury then becomes a different thing than it was and new values are born. No amount of wishing will bring the past back -- so we must evolve too and invent new flight plans.

And it feels familiar -- as a former pilot, I remember those moments when you can't turn back because it would use more fuel than going forward. There you are inventing new ways to fly while flying and there is fear. Without a past, the young do this intuitively as they invent their own flight plans -- we can learn from them.

Our flight plan . . .

Books: Good news, we are selling more CFPD books. On the other hand, Amazon is the Goliath in the room, making it difficult for us to offer many books that others publish (in case you wondered). We willingly pay sales tax and Amazon does not, so you will not find CFPD books there.
Patterns: More printed patterns will be out -- half-scale and full scale -- in the fall.
Classes: Online! As tech becomes easier and more compatible and students more saavy, we will develop online and video classes. It's a project for 2012. We are considering an online class in computer pattern making and/or basic draping. More specifics on that in January. We hope it will make it possible for many in distant places to learn more about pattern design.

That's the plan! It works with the economic crosswinds -- landing assured! May yours' be also and thank you for your the encouragement and support,

Sandy

Books

Designer's Guide to Fashion Apparel
by

Evelyn L. Brannon

The focus here is the development of a collection -- pulling together the designs, the tech and the customer issues to be assured of the most success with the final line -- greatly helps do what trunk shows do, weed out the "love it but no one buys it" group.

Berg Publishers

Japanese Fashion Designers, The Work and Influence of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo
by Bonnie English

Here they are, three of the all-time very best with insightful analysis of their common denominators, making this book a class and a classroom in itself.

Berg Publishers

Metric Patternmaking for Jacket and Coats

The renowned German pattern system of M. M�ller & Sohn with its centruries-old tradition and expertise has been updated to modern standards. It's a systematic guide to pattern drafting with illustrations and instructions on developing patterns for accurate jackets and coats regardless of complexity.

To order

Odd & Interesting

Center News

Jungeun Lee Molds Fibers into Zero-Waste Garments

Lee molds synthetic thermoplastic yarn around a form to create the desired silhouette, no cutting or sewing required. Lee is also a part of a collaborative garment venture using this 'Wrapped Garment' technology called Studio Koya, to make innovative 3D apparel.

Picture Gallery

Lanston's Perfectly-Cut Basics

"I'm very particular when it comes to fit," designer Kristabelle Ann Tan explains. "I drive my pattern-makers crazy. But I really think a great fit is something that is essential to every garment." She tries all her designs on herself!

To learn more

SIMPLY HIRED

Simply Hired is a vertical search engine company based in Silicon Valley, building the largest online database of jobs on the planet.

So click below and check out the pattern design jobs -- even though the rumor is that they are hard to find.

Make it a daily check!

Check the listings!

Origami Clothing

This a a major trip into inspiration -- just looking at these designs and thinking about what else is possible can keep you awake all night! Many are paper but there are a zillion materials out there that could also work.

Feast your eyes . . .

Lumi�re | Adventures in Vintage

One of the great fantasies is to discover a dream piece in a vintage shop in Paris for next to nothing in perfect condition that fits perfectly -- can't get better than that! Here is a list of where to go so you can make it happen.

Paris Vintage

Patterns and how they are affected by copyright law

Here is more clarity on this vexing legal problem since so many people in the fashion /pattern world are confronted with this from both sides of the issue. This site most directly refers to patterns. The talk is tough but the truth and transparency are there.

Read more . . .

Center News

Notice, no side seams or darts, just the ribbon!

Shingo Sato Returns to Cut the Ribbon Skirt!

Last spring after his first visit, we had two requests:

1. More about the mysterious ribbon technique and

2. how to make a whole garment from start to finish (including the Alaia technique for designing on the body).

So on Sept. 24 & 25 at the Calif. College for the Arts in SF, Shingo Sato will return to his new favorite city, San Francisco, and lead students through a weekend of making the Ribbon Skirt from start to finish -- from muslin to fashion fabric!

Check all the details and links here!

and see Shingo's book,

TR Transformational Reconstruction.

We have three books ready to go for pre-orders -- they will be here in a week!
With four more . . .

<>Home Sewing is Easy,

a 'comic book' that teaches children to sew by Sally Stitch, if you can believe it! Very fun with amazing illustrations to turn any kid into a designer!

To Order & Details

<>Designer Diagonals, the companion to A Cut Above by Virginia West, is a bias cutter's wonderland of designs with fabric widths and folds and fit! Reprinted by demand.

To Order & Details

<> New Fashions To Sew From Old, all about re-cutting those fabulous and expensive worsted wools in men's suits and re-purposing clothing, including children's wear.

To Order and Details

In the wings:

<> The Art of Measuring,

was printed in the '30's but gives a detailed analysis of how and why to measure men and women for tailored garments. It tells you what you have to consider and has many proportional charts.

<>Harry Simons ' Drafting Men's Work Garments and

<>Harry Simons' Drafting Men's Shirts and Underwear, both famous for bespoke everyday wear (the ultimate luxury) for discerning tradesmen. P.S. This genre of men's wear has become a cult thing lately.

<>Make and Mend, a companion book to New Fashions From Old on re-cutting and sustainable fashion -- more designs, layouts and ideas!

<> Plus, several half-scale patterns and a few full scale that are walk-away winners, never published! Coming in October . .

The Same Page

The other day, I listened to a report on KQED Radio and learned that much of the embroidery on clothes from India and other emerging economies is done by children trafficked from their homes. The clothing is sold to us -- the USA is the largest market at every price point. Using child labor is not a 'business' decision; it is a cruel rationalization for business.

There are other ways to create fashion and CFPD exists to encourage a leading one -- better pattern design. The cut of the clothing, the pattern, is a rich source of design. Designers do not need to risk using sub-contractors' child labor to 'gild' a cookie-cutter garment. Interesting, compelling pattern designs cut and sewn by verifiable fair labor shops is a business and humanitarian design decision.

Buy consciously, design ethically. It is time for us all to get on the same page in history, a page that produces future generations who will respect their own children.

Sandra Ericson

Center for Pattern Design