JULY 2011


Welcome to Center for Pattern Design

 

More like hello from the trenches!  We are noticing every day a new urgency in the business world as we fit our lives into the shifting sands of the economy -- always balancing, balancing. There are some transitions driven by that urgency, such as learning the technology critical to keep moving forward, looking ahead for modes and models that will replace today's and always becoming more professional.  In the fashion industry, particularly in start-up mode, the transition from naive to professional makes the difference between being credible or not -- to your vendors, customers and, deep-down, to yourself.  It is the time to invest in business knowledge and sharpen creative skills. So suit up, raise your personal bar, learn and go pro!  It is the soul of successful competition and the big difference between a career and a job.

Good to Know!
  • A new Balenciaga Museum in Spain, located in Getaria where he was born and costing $29 million, will display 1200 of his designs with the first 90 already up.  It is an important destination for serious fashion students.

Sustainable Fashion

  • Waste Workshop at California College of the Arts, San Francisco, August 4 - 6.  Apply 

    Engage in visionary brainstorming sessions to identify gaps and needs for new technologies in the industry and make recommendations will influence the way we design to move the industry to zero waste! There will be 2 days of Zero Waste pattern Cutting workshops!  On the left, THE book on the topic -- available at Amazon. 

 
  • Sylvie Privat, she of the wonderful Zero-Waste Abbey Jacket ( the pattern is in our store ), also has it available completed in a variety of fabrics in her store , so you can buy & wear!  This jacket packs flat, fits most and looks fabulous on all! Could make it reversible too.
  • The Big Problem. Here is why it is very important to engage in sustainable fashion:  (from the exhibit Going Green at F.I.T.)
          • The US consumes 84 lbs/person of textiles per year.
          • The industry employees 30 million people in the world, many of whom do not receive a living wage.
          • 8,000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into fabrics.
          • 11,000,000 tons of polyester are produced per year.  It requires a great deal of energy and is not biodegradable.
          • 15-20% of all fabric is wasted before it even gets sold.
          • Other countries are now refusing our bales of thrift store rejects - no room.  From the Leaf Lady Who-Sees-All:  "Save up, spend a little more, buy safe good quality clothes and wear them out. It's healthier, better looking, conveys more status more often and is less expensive per wearing!"   . . .  the philosophic 8-way win. 

And More . . .

  • Azzedine Alaia.  There's no doubt as we move into this century's second decade that the old Paris couture world is fading but let's not confuse the industry with the craft.  There are plenty of people who have the skills (and use them well) to make bespoke clothing of the best materials.  For those people, Alaia is THE one to emulate.  For all the reasons why, read this article by Cathy Horyn in the NY Times.  It isn't about guarding the word 'couture' anymore, it is about understanding how to make wearing clothes the best experience possible and then being the best at it. The industry is not the same anymore and the new people have the freedom-- for a more dire view of this idea, have another read
    The times, they are a changing.
  • SpoonflowerThis is an online fabric printing resource I've mentioned before; they have just finished a pattern design contest with online voting for the best 1 yard skirt pattern using their custom printed fabric -- the designs are really great!!  This is a great place to start with digitized print patterns -- known as 'engineered patterns' since they often are designed to let the print define the silhouette.

  •  Ann Selby's Shibori Machine.  Sometimes 2-D patterns just leaf off the table and become 3-D by themselves, enter shibori pleating. I met Ann at the Shibori World Conference in Paris a few years ago and was astonished by her shibori machine -- want one so bad! Now it's even better. Just feast your eyes on her new videoshowing it in action. Last time I checked it was $4,000 -- probably more now, but, just think, it is a business all by itself.  
  • The 25th Street Collective.  This is a new and wonderful group of start-up upstarts who do some amazing things in Oakland's newest art district, headed by Hiroko Kurihara.  If you are hunting for spiffy space -- this is it!  The rent, facilities, genius level -- all great!  Go over there on their monthly first-weekend open house event -- there's even a tasting room right there for happy hour.  Be sure to check out the neighbors -- really interesting businesses on the block.
Happening Here & Now!
  • The Zarapkar Book is here again!   This is the one with Indian bias pants from a rectangular bag, lots of English men's pattern design information and sari information.  All straight from the Raj years!

    Shingo Sato.  We are working to set up a TR Pop-Up School in the Bay Area as part of a month long stay here in the US. We would like to offer a four-day class in Transformational Reconstruction techniques, organized so students will be able to complete a garment during that time, making it possible to learn how to put it all together, from design to finishing work. On the right, his newest piece -- the Ribbon Dress, a continuous ribbon of lace snaking through satin, with no seams or darts!  Check out his YouTube video on the Ribbon Dress.  There will be a separate announcement when things gel. 
  • Special Half Scale.  We are delighted to be able to say that more designers are discovering the benefits of working half scale. This fall we will be offering some half scale patterns sized to fit the MySize Barbie (with dressform cover) and the Dress Rite Size 8 form. Coming soon from the Draping Series are two from the Dutch draping book. In addition, there will be three Balenciaga-type coats. These are CPTF patterns, draped from photographs, not original patterns.     
    • Related News:  Michael Hall in Chicago is engaged in the all-time dream project, creating several half scale models and patterns of the Charles James designs in the collection of the Chicago History Museum.  Cannot wait. Can you imagine, a half scale like this original?  ---------------------------------------->    
    •    Julie Anglin is back! She is another half scale genius who will be making up some of our patterns as they are developed. Her Lily wedding dress is on the homepage and here is a full scale photo of the Corset dress flanked by two half scales, Corset and Diamond.  Still doubt that half scales can really sell a design??  These were done for Sandra Sakato at Obiko (gone now but dear to SF hearts). They were in the front window and clients ordered from them -- many fell in love with one before they even entered the store!  
  • And coming from our 'summer factory' here, we will soon have more new patterns and books -- planned for end of summer & fall!
       

Lastly, although summer is sweet, there is sadness . . . 

 

Katie Frohmberg has passed away and all of us here on the west coast miss her a lot.  She was talented, creative and always her own spirit, believing in and supporting the makers of this world with all her resources wherever she could.  We were working with her on a project involving LilliAnn patterns and we intend to continue and dedicate it to her. The early plans call for an exhibition, book by a new NY author and patterns -- Katie especially wanted the patterns to be made. For her, they will be.

 

 

And more sadness, Donald Magnin is gone. As the whole world was breaking out of old traditions in the 60's and after, he made the visions of our generation real and made Joseph Magnin's THE store in San Francisco. It seems like everyone who was young and in fashion revolved around JM's -- I was lucky to work there during graduate school. Mr. Magnin captured and held for decades that coveted operating space in the fashion industry where the clothes were beautifully designed, beautifully made, beautifully presented and young people could afford them! Nirvana!!  He was incredible, with an understanding of his customers and a belief that everyone should wear fine clothes -- he made it possible.  The JM look defined a new era of social freedom.

 

 

Hold on to their gifts,
Sandra Ericson
Center for Pattern Design

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