CENTER FOR
PATTERN DESIGN 

Have a very happy holiday and the best New Year!

Cutting Cloth 
December 2009
Change is Good! So, We Are Changing

2010 will be a turning point year, a time to focus, focus, focus -- and we are doing just that.  We will be giving the website a new look, offering new options for members, new downloads -- like tutorials and new events for 2010. As we transition, we will not be able to accept new memberships but will be open again on January 1, just in time for the CoPA opportunity described below. Everyone on our mailing list will get a notice with further details within the next few weeks.
Lots to celebrate with the New Year!!
New at the Center
  • The Commercial Pattern Archive Open to Members for 3 Months for Free!
From January 1st to April 31, CoPA at the University of Rhode Island will be accessible to CFPD members without charge.  This is your chance to look at almost all the of patterns ever printed in the US -- thousands and thousands-- each one shows the envelop and the layout. 

"CoPA-Online contains over 50,000 scanned images (garments & pattern schematics) from 42,000 commercially produced patterns, dating back to 1868 and is growing daily.  Search the catalog in several ways, by garment type (dress, suits, bathing suits, maternity), by date or by designer.  Print full-page reports of selected patterns with the image and pattern layout.  Bookmark selected items for review and printing.
Three Collections are housed at the University of Rhode Island:
    1.    The Betty Williams Collection
    2.    The Joy Emery Collection
    3.    The University of Rhode Island Collection"

 Before the end of the year, CFPD members will be sent a login ID and a password to access the collection -- so if you are not a member, make it a resolution to join on New Year's Day!

  • A New Reprint from CFPD:  The Fundamentals of Fashion Design by Harriet Pepin, 1948. 
The story behind this book is significant -- It was last printed in 1948 and in it


Pepin explains the deeper theories behind designing fashion, with illustrations, from beginning to advanced.  She was one of the leading experts in the country at the time and was responsible for the education of those who designed the vintage clothing we find so desirable today -- the book was the text used in the colleges and universities for design majors.  It doesn't just tell you how; it tells you WHY with discussions of anatomy, appropriate dress forms and foundation garments.  The diagram above illustrates button proportions. It will be out by January 15th; members will be notified but you can pre-order it now.  If you are a teacher, this is the whole course with test questions!
  • The Vionnet Way
Reporting back from Paris and the Vionnet, Puriste de la Mode exhibition at the Musee de la Decoratif Arts.  The exhibition was amazing -- it took seven and half hours to do the Meet Me in Paris tour of all the pieces.  There were lots of ideas and examples of little known techniques and pattern concepts -- which will all make it into the next Vionnet seminar.  The show generated a flurry of Internet photos of museum MV pieces from all over the world which have been added to our collection for the next seminar.  While in Paris, I also contacted sources for draping supplies used by couture and will be arranging for importation this spring.  To feel like you were there, read Alan LeBlanc's description of his first trip to the exhibit, Vionnet's Return to Paris. See this video with great shots, especially the animation of a pattern -- and this one for great photography.  Please let me know if you would like a Vionnet Seminar for your group or location.
  • Vionnet Identique:  Members of the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals completed the re-creation of 42 of the models in Betty Kirke's book, Madeleine Vionnet, which were displayed at the ASDP Conference October 18 at Hilton Indian Lakes Resort near Chicago. It was a wonderful experience facilitating the project and they are working on a road tour. Check some of the photos!  Each model was done as a muslin toile and also in the fashion fabric --  in half scale!  The models in the photo at right are half scale! The January issue of Threads Magazine will have my article on Madeleine Vionnet and a feature on the exhibition with all the photos -- don't miss it.  Also, if your business would like to sponsor a portion of the Vionnet Identique tour or have the exhibition come to a venue in your area, please let them know.
  • New Class: Draping the Dior Jacket - Sat/Sun, January 23 -24, St. Helena, CA.
As they say, "back by popular demand!"  The popularity of the new Dutch draping book, Draping, The Art and Craftsmanship in Fashion Design, is growing -- we have re-ordered four times! We are scheduling another draping workshop; in fact, it is becoming a series so we can work our way through the book, draping each iconic designer piece in the book!

This next class will focus upon the Dior jacket, which made the New Look famous in 1947 and defined women's tailoring for two generations.  We will include working with the Pli de Souplesse -- members, see Alan LeBlanc's treatise on that in the Cutting Cloth Annual (below)-- and other techniques that distinguish a professional level 'modeliste'.  An exquisite jacket that fits like a dream can put you on the map! Register here &  Look at  photos of the first class.




  • The 2009 Cutting Cloth Annual is out!
This first ever Annual is a collection of in-depth articles, scholarly essays and interesting pattern approaches in the field of pattern design.  It is published each year and distributed to conference attendees and members.  It is free to members by download -- to help save the environment -- and available to members in hard copy, for the price of shipping, in our store.
  • New Pattern in Production:  The Paris Folding Skirt
A vintage wrap and tie concept from the Paris designer original (the one who made a come-back in her 70's) which folds over twice to form a deep center front pleat.  Using only two pattern pieces for the whole skirt, its sash closure allows for infinite adjustments for ease and/or size and it can be made in street or full length in a wide variety of fabrics, lined or not.  It is really class on the hoof and will be available in January!
  • Still on the drawing board!  ArtCoat II: A Process, Not a Pattern and the Paper Dress Form -- coming soon -- just ran out of time for this issue!
  • Child Measurements
From the bible of Italian pattern design, Il Modellismo, we have a rare chart of children's measurements -- all the sizes and all the ease for each -- very comprehensive and a free download to CFPD members.  Members, please go to the Documents page on the Menu and look under Patterns . . . .






  • Survey
Lastly, a survey!  In this moment of transition, mentioned earlier, we want to fine-tune our benefits to members and go where you want to be.  Please take a few minutes and help the process by letting us know what you think about online education and how we can make it easy -- just 5 questions.  Loads of thanks for that!

The member version of this newsletter continues on from here with interviews, a job notice, books, industry resources and events.  Join up in January and you'll receive discounts on books, patterns, tools and events -- plus the you'll get the Annual, access to the Library, the archives and complimentary consulting for your business.
Books
           On Fairchild's Book List:

Make It Fit by Sylvia Rosen.  
Make It Fit will provide fool proof solutions on ways to tailorclothing for all body types. With illustrated instructions, this manual shows users how to measure, calculate, and mark basic patterns to customized dimensions. It also includes a pack of 29 full-sized slopers for garment sections, printed on a synthetic fabric, to drape over the body or model form, allowing users to mold the pattern over an actual form to attain the correct measurements.
See the ordering info.

Integrating Draping, Drafting, and Drawing by Bina Abling, Kathleen Maggio:
This text promises to make the transition between the sketch, the drape and the pattern as smooth as possible and includes a chapter with a gallery of drawings of examples from twentieth century designer, Donald Brooks. It is especially helpful for those in production, small or large, and utilizes draping skills to the most advantage. See the ordering info.
Resources
  • Job Notice:  Draper/Cutter - Teatro ZinZanni San Francisco

    POSITION SUMMARY: Teatro ZinZanni is seeking a Draper/Cutter to join the costume team in producing world-class costumes. Start date is flexible.The Draper/Cutter will supervise the costume workroom and assist the Costume Production Manager with the day-to-day running of the costume shop. Specific duties include patterning and cutting of all costume components for all levels of performer (including principal performers, restaurant performers, and any Production Staff seen by the public), assigning stitching projects within the workroom, cutting all costume components, stitching costumes, conducting fittings, altering and repairing costumes, helping to organize and maintain the costume shop, organizing and supervising hourly staff and interns, assisting the Costume Designer as necessary, and other duties as assigned by the Costume Designer and Costume Production Manager.

    SHOW SUMMARY: San Francisco's Teatro ZinZanni presents a full evening of entertainment, combining European cabaret, circus artists, contortionists, jugglers and illusionists with live music and a gourmet five-course meal. To apply for this position, please send your resume to hr@onereel.org

  • Butter by Nadia
For a very slick idea for a line of clothing, take a peek at this company which takes multipurpose to a completely new place -- super pattern designing.  Somehow, they make one dress is actually MORE than you need!  Video is magic.
  • Textile and Clothing Technology Corporation (TC2) Classes Coming up:
I urge everyone who manufactures clothing on any scale to make the trip to Cary, North Carolina. This is the best garment manufacturing think tank in the world and it will help you grow your business with smarts! To register, contact Debra Gill at 919.653.3501, or email contact.

First Quarter 2010 Programs:
Pattern Development ---------------------- January 12-14
Introduction to Apparel Manufacturing -- February 8-12
Grading for Fit -- ----------------------------March 16-18

Also, check out their TECHEXCHANGE service to find EVERYTHING and their MY IMAGE TWIN software for your own avatar croquis based upon 3-D body scanning.  TC2 is amazing!
  • From Janet Lee Kim's blog, Fashion . . .  i.e. My Life, we get a wonderful discourse on being a French student of couture and much about the process. 
  • The Portland Garment Factory
A hopping place -- young, cool, competitive and eager to produce your line -- even if it involves actually doing something by hand! Yes!  Seems to have just the right holistic approach.  Check out their blog.
Events: There & Here
  • The FBI -- Fashion Business Inc. -- the fabulous stepping stone to business savy, now has a San Francisco Chapter (we can hope for one in all the cities!) and they also offer online courses now.  The rates are so reasonable and and even less if you are a member.  Frances Harder deserves a standing ovation from us all!  Here's what is coming up in SF soon:
  • Ethics + Aesthetics = Sustainable Fashion, November 20, 2009 - February 20, 2010, Pratt Institute, 200 Willoughby Ave., Brooklyn NY.
The first American exhibition to explore the work of artists and designers who seek practical and symbolic solutions to the question of integrating sustainable practices into the fashion system. The exhibition is organized around three main themes: Reduce, Revalue and Rethink, expanding on the traditional ecological mantra Reduce, Reuse, Recycle by acknowledging the importance of aesthetics within fashion design. For the catalog call 212-647-7778 or email. Pratt is a high respected and long standing institute of design.  It is quite significant that they have recognized the importance and impact of sustainability in US garment industry.
  • Timo Rissanen
Also in the sustainable mode here, Timo Rissanen will be coming to the US! Timo is a star in zero-waste cutting --- meaning that the design of the pattern itself must be configured so there is no waste; therefore, the pattern design matches the priority of the garment design. Zero-waste cutting becomes a serious design challenge in order to mass produce for a market within a fashion cycle. Timo will be teaching at Parsons in NYC, from Australia, for a semester, taking a break from his PH.D. work.  See his work.
  • The American Sewing Guild New York Fashion Tours, actually 2 tours, this spring, with Marsha McClintock and Marla Kazell, both really good at it. The tours are wonderful, perfect for getting the lay of the land and seeking garment district resources.  Check the details.
  • Rick Owens Interview
If you are just starting out or a student --
watch and learn . It is a great interview with several teachable moments, finishing up with a reality comment about knowing the fundamental skills!
A Holiday Present
This is a photograph of a woven piece of fabric that I recently saw in NYC at the Natural History Museum, made entirely from the silk of 1 million female Golden Orb spiders. To produce this unique golden cloth (its natural color), 70 people spent four years collecting spiders from telephone poles in Madagascar, while another dozen workers carefully extracted about 80 feet of silk filament from each of the arachnids. The resulting 11-foot by 4-foot textile is the only large piece of cloth made from natural spider silk existing in the world today.  It is stronger than Kevlar. Read about how they did it -- meet the spider!
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Thank you all for this year!


We want you to know how much we have appreciated your support and encouragement this year and we would like to applaud some of the good things that are happening  in the world. 

More people are becoming conscious of good craftsmanship, developing a deeper appreciation for value and there seems to be a greater respect for materials and how they are acquired and processed. We have a new generation, the Sunshine Generation, who are leading the way toward healthier lifestyles with more biking and cooking at home. More people are cultivating their DIY skills and a new pride in creating seems more apparent as many get a new sewing machine or head out to the shop to fix something.  In all, there is much reason to hope that we will have a more sustainable and realistic life in the future. 

The Swedish have a word, perhaps born of life in a cold climate, lagom; it means "enough is as good as a feast."  If we keep it in mind, we will be feasting for a long time to come.  Have a truly wonderful holiday season!

Sandy Ericson