Clothing
A quarterly collection of designs, patterns, events, classes and ideas from Antiquity Press, Volume 3, Issue 1, January 2008
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Co-ruler
with Sartre of France's intellectual avant-garde, Simone de Beauvoir
spent her youth in Paris, took her Ph.D. at the Sorbonne. In 1943 she
gave up teaching for writing: novels, a play, problematic essays that
have become a feminine testament for existentialists. She wrote the
Second Sex, exploring the role and destiny of women. It was published
in America. She was Visible.
It is January of 2008 and we are retiring -- in waves; we are the first generation of older women, ever, who will not be invisible. It is the first generation in which so many women over 50 have an education, professional experience, money, influence and at least 25 years left to live. So many, in fact, that we are a power unto ourselves. We are the transition demographic from the WWII generation in which women could have it all but the price was very high and many chose not to pay or couldn't. Well, volume makes the price go down and now, with our own dues paid, we can create the world we want to live in. We are Visible.
It begins today, January 1, 2008.
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 What Makes One Visible?
Most of all, what you care about makes you visible -- how you define your place in the world by what you are doing and, importantly, by how you do it. Over 50 is truth time; there is a reconciliation between the time left and what it merits -- the balance between wanting and needing, between knowing what you could do and doing it; between being kind to yourself and self-absorbed; between wishing it were different and making it so.
Fearless Women, new book by Nancy Alspaugh & Marilyn Kintz.
We are entering a period in history when it will fall to women to carry the
promise and burden of a hopeful future. Can they educate their children? Will they go to the polls? Will they use their buying power to create a more responsible culture? Can they cross boundaries to unite societies in human terms?
It is a glorious time to be a Visible Woman; each day counts. We have gone from pity to power and are leaving instructions. Show up at a meeting. Vote. Fix something. Ride a bicycle. Be Visible.
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Personal Design Creates Visibility
Check Simone above -- notice how 'put together' she looks -- of course, she was being photographed and it was 1950 but there is a look about her that doesn't pander to fashion or attempt to relive her youth or copy celebrity or indicate she could care less or has ceased taking herself seriously. She appears a unique person, engaged, thinking, evaluating, articulating; her appearance is timeless. Would we underestimate her today if she stood in front of us?
In 1950, when the photo was taken, it was the first of the 10 years known as the Golden Age of Couture; identified as such because it was a period in history when design itself ruled -- 'designers' were artists; fashion was fine art, art principles were common conversation and the customers were adults. It  was also a time when women were dichotomized. Now the popular culture hands us another dichotomy: Professional women -- often considered less credible if they look great -- and glamorous women who are likely to be considered a commodity. It is time to be professional, glamorous, credible and authentic at the same time -- to be whole, defined and identifiable. Time to use art again to design yourself.
For example, look closely at this sketch; notice how a simple change in the sleeve shape makes a big difference in the quality of the design. Similar differences are possible when your clothes are custom designed for your figure. Years and pounds vanish! Voila, elegance.
Check out the 3-D you!
THE OTHER KIND OF PERSONAL DESIGN: Getting a grip on your next adventure -- check out KBK Connection, a personal coaching company for women -- not just for your next job but also for how to make a real difference in the world with the skills you have.
ZAFU: THE RIGHT FIT FOR JEANS AND BRAS: Someone has actually put together a website just for selecting the brand of either that fits you best. Try it! They must have an amazing database -- you're covered!
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Patterns
This quarter's freebie pattern is a tough one - but it's such a "fetching frock" that no effort could be too much! Here's why: Gravity being what it is, many older women appear to have small shoulders -- it is another relativity thing -- the difference between the width of the shoulders and the width of the torso lessens (torso widening issue) so the solution is to increase the width of the shoulders slightly to restore those youthful proportions.
The sleeve of this dress does the job, beautifully; it has a raglan sleeve with a cowl at the curve of the shoulder. Perfect . . . more than perfect, in silk velvet. The pattern for the sleeve is on the Patterns Page. It is from a German book, Lehrbuch, full of 1930's dresses and the patterns, which will eventually get reprinted by Antiquity Press -- you'll see it here first!
VIONNET: Madeleine is never missing so there is a new pattern for the circular organza collars and skirts with deep tucks in the wedding photos. These pieces were created from a single piece of fabric with no seaming -- a triumph of construction. How-to is on the Vionnet Page.
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Spring Classes
Putting the finishing touches on
Jennifer Gorden's Vionnet dress in the 1/2 scale muslin, Fall 2007.
THE DRAPING CYCLE BEGINS AGAIN!
Design with Scissors & Cloth 1: Saturdays, APRIL 5, 12, 19; 9 --5;
Upper Valley Campus (St. Helena) of Napa Valley College.
We begin again with the draping basics and the most important thing first, how to make something FIT! This is the foundation course for the magic to follow in the next two draping for design courses.
and it's partner, the DRESS FORM CLASS: Two Sundays, February 17 and March 2, 12-5, $90 -- just when you're thinking 'spring = clothes'! It's happening before the draping class starts, so you can drape on your own form in that class. The first step is to email meif you are interested so I can get a count and find a space. You will need a month to order your basic form (approx. $130) so let me know soon.
(Big Clue: The first step toward vintage Visibility is acquisition of a dress form, even if you don't sew -- your clothier will use it to fit your clothes. Well fitted clothes are key to to appearing 'much younger', like light years!)
NEW CLASSES
1. Understanding Fabrics: Saturdays, March 1, 8, 15; 9 - 5;
Upper Valley Campus (St. Helena) of Napa Valley College.
My embarassingly vast collection fabrics will see some daylight for this one! Think of this class as one giant show and tell experience -- all the mysteries will vanish and pouf!, you'll be a pro. Everyone gets a sample book and gets to handle the goods -- all fabulous, many vintage.
2. Designing Patterns: Saturdays, May 3, 10, 17; 9 -- 5;
Upper Valley Campus (St. Helena) of Napa Valley College.
For the past two years I have given Master Classes for PACC, Professional Association of Custom Clothiers at their fall conference. My MO is to perfect the class by offering it locally first to make sure of timing etc., so here is the next one! This one deals with the paper pattern and covers the whole process -- from seeing the dress of your dreams in the magazine to making the exact pattern -- that fits you! Draping can't do it all -- development of the best designs uses a combination of both fabric and paper.
See the Classes Page for details and how to sign-up.
ALSO: Computer Pattern Making Class (BOTH Mac & PC): Many of you have contacted me about learning computerized pattern making, so there will be a class as soon as I hear how many are interested. So let me know. I am now tech-equipped to teach it anywhere -- need a minimum of 4 students. So gather your group! We will use the $20 30-day demo of PWStudio 2. More info on the Classes Page. - Summer: The summer schedule request will happen early in the spring, so if you want a particular course for summer, let me know that too -- suggestions so far include a "Wrap Yourself a Dress" class, using a single piece of cloth, or a Sari, and a Fashion Film class of all the big screen great designer moments -- just think, all day and half the night submersed in fashion fantasies -- almost too much, but . . . probably not!
- Dont't forget to check out Apparel Arts classes too! There are lots of interesting ones!
- News Flash! Candy Kling is back doing her incredible Ribbon Art classes -- for a schedule, email her at candy@happyclams.com.
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Events
 NEWS FLASH -THE COLOR OF THE YEAR, 2008! "From a color forecasting perspective, we have chosen PANTONE 18-3943
Blue Iris as the color of the year, as it best represents color
direction in 2008 for fashion, cosmetics and home products," explains
Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute�.
"As a reflection of the times, Blue Iris brings together the dependable
aspect of blue, underscored by a strong, soul-searching purple cast.
Emotionally, it is anchoring and meditative with a touch of magic. Look
for it artfully combined with deeper plums, red-browns, yellow-greens,
grapes and grays."
VINTAGE FASHION EXPO: March 15 & 16 at the Nob Hill Masonic Hall on California St. near Mason. Going to this show is one of the best experiences of the year! You go in the AM, then lunch at the Fairmont or Top of the Mark, then take the cable car downtown to marvel at all the copies, knowing you just bought the original for next to nothing! AND -- you recycled! YES, YES!
P.S. You'll see recognizable SF socialites doing the exact same thing.
STYLIZED SCULPTURE: at the Asian Art Museum for 5 more days -- hurry! An interesting overview of the influence of origami and textural concepts in fashion , particularly Japanese fashion. This is one of the hottest trends now -- so it's must-see for designer types.
BLOG.MODE:ADDRESSING FASHION: at the Metropolitan Museum in NY, the latest Costume Institute exhibition. The way it works remotely is you go to www.MetMuseum.org, pick 'special exhibitions' and they show you a piece from the current show and you comment on it -- and, of course, read everyone else's. A great way to see who's out there and serious about historically important fashion.
1930'S FASHION PREDICTIONS: A marvelous video on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txaR2HvnwVg
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Greenchic
The shredded US Dollar bill dress, Not For Sale by Cat Chow -- eliminate the middlemen, recyle your money directly!
THE STORY OF STUFF, a hilarious video with a big serious message -- you will love it!!
SIGN OF THE TIMES!
Samples of winter attire were virtually absent at Australian Fashion Week in Sydney recently --retailers complained they just sat on the racks because the climate was so warm. Beppe Modenese, founder of the Milan Fashion Week, told the NY Times that there is little difference between summer and winter any more.
WILLIAM GOOD -- THE ULTIMATE GREENCHIC PLACE TO SHOP!
In the latest example of retail reincarnation, a la Banana Republic's start refashioning Army surplus jackets, 'William Good' should be open by now inside the Goodwill Store on Fillmore and Post. A shop within a shop, they redesign the best of Goodwill. No longer will you be handicapped by a lack of imagination or teased by great fabric in a tired style when you look at a treasure in the thrift shop! Nick Graham, the guy who gave us Joe Boxer heads the team.
RECYCLED TEA SERVICE: Christine Misiak has created the best new look for an object ever! In lots of colors!
REUSABLE BAGS:
We use 1 billion plastic bags which take up to 1,000 years to degrade in the landfill according to ReusableBags.com. Go there, buy 5 and do right. Carry one in your purse -- shopping is much easier -- no slipping bags, no forgetting bags, no disposing of bags, no looking like a bag lady, all receipts are in the purse -- it's a big win. For a cotton mesh sub for the plastic produce bags, get a few GardenSacs at greenfeet.com.
KILLER FURNITURE?
Sounds scary but chemicals abound these days, so before you buy furniture, check out this October Chronicle story in case you missed it: www.sfgate.com
Nothing looks younger than zipping along on a bike! Coming soon -- the Bike Helmet Picture Hat Brim! Very Green- Very Chic! -- perfect for avoiding too much sun! It will Velcro on to the helmet -- you will not look dorky anymore! You'll find it on the Antiquity Press Marketplace Page next month.
FINALLY: A little corner has been turned in the textile world -- Hemp and Bamboo fabrics are now gorgeous, green & going like those hotcakes -- see a great list of suppliers. Also equally wonderful, organic wool knits and coating! Samples available! |
Books
 LESSONS ON BECOMING MYSELF: by Ellen Burstyn. " . . . a frank and unsparing account of her search for personal and professional authenticity and the consequences of that struggle."
BUSINESS BOOKS FOR ARTISTS: A whole collection from marketing to licensing to Internet info -- perfect for designers, new fashion businesses, grphics people. From www.ArtMarketing.com.
RED CARPET: More than 1,000 Frank Trapper Photos of the carpet -- and the book itself is red velvet! Welcome Books, $34.95.
THE COLLECTION: a novel about Coco Chanel by Goia Dilberto, a peek into the workrooms of her Coco's heyday. From Scribner.
THE GOLDEN AGE OF COUTURE: The best of the best at the best time -- the 10 years after Dior's new look in 1947 -- the standard that still exists today. Done by the Victoria & Albert Museum in London; published by Abrams, $45.
THE SOCIAL GRACES: From Town & Country Magazine we get the social fundamentals, for so little money that you'll want to leave it anomously here and there, $17.95 from Hearst Books, Call 1-866-338-3778
For most of these books, go to www.Amazon.com.
EXPOSED: THE TOXIC CHEMISTRY OF EVERYDAY PRODUCTS: by Mark Schapiro for Chelsea Green at $22.95. For those who want to understand why those chemicals are in there in the first place. Lots on cosmetics. |
Small Treasures
MARJORIE SHACHNOW: Exquisite jewelry . . . pieces that will be your signature because you won't take them off! Her work is serious fine art, using leaves and natural forms -- timeless; instantly elevates anything else you have on. Contact her at mshachnow@sbcglobal.netBORROW THAT BAG: Need to make sure you are perceived at the level important for the deal, guy, event -- whatever? Best strategy: borrow the the all-imprtant social indicator --the handbag -- and save your money for the follow-up! Go to www.BagBorrowOrSteal.comTRAIS OF THE VALLEY & VINTAGE VOGUE: Lincoln Ave. in Calistoga. A fabulous new shop that sells the most irresistable embroidered pieces from south of the border. These aren't the ordinary goodies, but wearable works of art -- all embroidered -- haven't ever seen so many pieces that I want! Right next to Vintage Vogue, which has expanded and has a collection from the time when clothes were designed for grown-ups -- everything works! HOT MOON COLLECTION: One-stop shopping for women over 40!! www.HotMoonCollection.com SOLE STASH - THE ARCHPORT SANDAL: A hidden compartment in your sandal for keys, money, credit card -- so you're never unprepared! Call: 866-436-9927.THE GPS JACKET: Put this on your kids and there's no guessing where they are -- the jacket sends you an email! $500 plus $20/mo for the tracking service. For the wandering adult (the mind swims with scenarios!) -it costs $700. From Bladerunner in the UK.: BladerunnerNEW VINTAGE STORE -- 'TORSO': Big, Amazing, Loaded with great stuff! Right downtown on Sutter in SF and few doors up from Loehman's -- pricey, but when you're in there, you don't care. AND LASTLY -- PORCELYNNE: Beautiful things, beautiful concept . . . a fashion cooperative where 14 local designers show their work, share the cost, work and profits -- the brainchild of Jennifer Lynne. Support a wonderful thing -- go learn how to do it; she'll tell you -- in the Mission District. www.porcelynne.com
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The Economy
This isn't the usual fashion subject but it merits a conversation here. If you haven't remembered the prognosis in last year's January newsletter and battened down your financial hatches, here it is again -- time to do just that. According to recent articles, it really is the End of Spend -- the great flip side is that it is time to Make It Yourself -- doing without, is, of course, out of the question! So make a space in your program to learn how to be more self-sufficient.
It's a cycle and we are back to the mid-20th C. when no one would have imagined wasting resources, or buying what you could make or . . . lowering standards. Ultimately, personal strength comes out of a stringent economy when priorities are reset to realities. It is a time when the skills and fortitude of seasoned women are more valued than ever. Think of it as institutional memory in heels, albeit lower ones!
So, DON'T THROW IT OUT, Recycle, Renew, and Reuse to Make Things Last, a new book from Yankee Books (publishers of Yankee Magazine, bible of the thrifty old days). Remember, clothing value is based upon cost per use; divide the price by how many times you will wear it and that is the true cost of the goods. Hmmm, it's amazing how little one spends on good clothes. Think value, not quantity.
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