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Clothing
A Quarterly Collection of Designs, Patterns, Events, Classes and Ideas From Antiquity Press
July 2007 - Vol. 2, Issue 3
In This Issue
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Roses

How I love you in the robes
That disrobe so well your charms!
. . .
Frail as the frailest wing of bee,
Fresher than the heart of rose,
All the fabric delicate, free,
Round your body gleams and glows.

Theophile Gautier, who was also famous for . . .

Diaghilev's Ballet Russe premiered the ballet on 19 April 1911 with Vaslav Nijinsky as the Spirit of the Rose. The ballet is yet another example of how deeply we all love roses -- we know there is a spirit of the rose. The libretto was based on lines from a poem by Theophile Gautier:

"Open up your sleeping eyes that are brushed lightly by a virginal dream I am the spectre of a rose you wore last night at a ball."
A Rose Cordial

Take one pound of the leaves of full blown red roses. Put them into one quart of lukewarm water, and let them infuse for two days in a covered vessel. Then squeeze them through a linen bag, to press out all the liquid, and take as much white brandy as you have of the decoction of roses. To one pint of the infusion add one half pound of loaf sugar, and a very small quantity of coriander and cinnamon. Put in a jug and let it set for two weeks, then filter it through blotting paper, or coffee filters, and put it into bottles.

. . . from Victorian Wines From Your Garden, a new 'old' book, coming out again next year from Antiquity Press. Many years ago I found a 1909 wine-making book written by the widow of a New England sea captain. She had visited all the other widows for their wine recipes (done in a crock on the kitchen counter) and published them in a small book.
There are a lot of recipes, requiring a lot of testing.
Picture the widows, pacing the widow's walk on the roof and waiting, waiting, all the while testing those recipes!

Barbara Ohrbach's Original Garden Smock

Thirty years ago, I happened into a shop on Lexington in NY named Cherchez and met a kindred spirit ~ a woman who knew how life ought to be lived and knew how to share the idea. We became friends and I wore out her garden smock -- wore it everywhere for years. Alas, IT REAPPEARS! Barbara has offered us the pattern , so check the pattern section below! See Photos!
Please find photos of books and items from Antiquity Press on the Market Page. page. Books Page

Draping and Designing With Scissors and Cloth, 1920's and 1930's, Edited by Sandra Ericson
The originals were published by the Women's Institute in the 1920's and 30's and Antiquity Press reprinted it in the 1980's. Both books have detailed instructions on how to drape flapper and bias dresses for the Art Deco era, also shawls, with lots of illustrations. The 1920's book has the instructions for the Basque dresses which were made famous by Paul Poiret whose work will be the theme of the next show at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum in New York.

The Art and Craft of Ribbonwork, Edited by Sandra Ericson.
This was the very first ribbon work book out in 1921 and again in its revival in 1980. Originally published by a ribbon manufacturer for ladies to decorate their hats, it is chock full of roses and lots of other flowers for decorating anything at all, including many gowns and dresses. Just 40 copies left from the last printing in the mid-1980's!
Bonus
see The 3-Minute Rose!

Your Size Grader from Antiquity Press
Ever wonder how things got done before computers -- how did anyone make any money if they had to do everything by hand? Well, they had secret methods!! One of the best is back -- industrial grading templates for changing the sizes of patterns. These templates are easy, fast, accurate and can also be used to alter patterns in just a few places to another size. See Photos

Roses for the Scented Room by Barbara Milo Ohrbach
The definitive book on what roses can bring to your life, from planting, to tasting, to wearing, to simply gazing. You just swim in them! Published in 2000 and available from www.Amazon.com.

Different Like Coco by Elizabeth Mathews
This is Elizabeth's first book for children and if you're on this mailing list, you'll understand why she had to write it. It's about Coco Chanel, 'the little black dress' and how to change the world. Available from www.amazon.com

Wardrobe Software! Dress Assistant
Believe it or not, this software helps you put things that you already bought together so it looks like you know what you're doing. Trial and error, or worse yet, asking the other half, is history! For $20 you can have this problem under control.Check out their site!
Recycled Roses

This year it seems we have turned a corner in the marketplace; a purchasing perfect storm has presented itself and it is no longer a social stigma to seek out beautiful clothes looking for their second ( or fourth) owner.
Not only it is a challenge for the serious shopper to try to find an interesting, well-made, affordable garment that fits, in one's color, but it's all out of the same cookie-cutter and the cookies are too young to vote! Plus, what's the point of consuming so many resources and throwing it out over and over, forever? So here's a list of some good places, compiled from years of commuting and guilt -free retail therapy! Remember this when you're thinking about your carbon footprint.

Go to the Resources page and also peek at the most wild use of recycled clothing you ever saw -- I mean Big Couture you must have, do, buy, make -- whatever! Go to What To Wear
They are held in St. Helena at Napa Valley College, Upvalley Center. If you call 707-967-2901, you'll get a live person who can put you on a mailing list for the catalog. If you or your group has an idea for a class or a ready group for one, let me know!. Go to the Antiquity Press Classes page for more details.

Summer

Flat Pattern Design at California College of the Arts in San Francsico
July 14, 21, 22, & 28, 9:00 - 5:30

This is an intensive introductory course on the principles and techniques of designing a women's garment pattern using flat paper pattern methods. Using a basic fitting sloper (a generic pattern of a basic garment), students analyze a design from a sketch or photograph, design an original garment and then create a paper pattern. Knowledge of the best pattern features for personal figures, the difference between domestic use patterns and commercial production patterns and an introduction to grading (making different sizes) is also included.
Register early; enrollment limited. BYO lunch. Materials Fee: $30 Noncredit. Prerequisite: prior experience in making a garment from a pattern. Details at their site: www.cca.edu/academics/extended. Click on Extended Education and then Fashion Design when you get there.

Art of Fashion Design, 2 Saturdays at Napa Valley College, UpValley Campus, August 25 and Sept 8, 9 AM to 5:30 PM.
This class explores the relationship between art principles and clothing design from the beginning creative inspiration. It brings together the designer's concept, the body of his or her customers, and the aesthetic elements of fabric, line, color, proportion, and many other aspects as well. See a full description on the Classes Page.

Fall

Design With Scissors and Cloth 3 at Napa Valley College, UpValley Campus, 4 Saturdays, October 27, November 3, 10 and 17
This is the the advanced level of draping for design with more complex designs, multiple pieces and special fabric demands in addition to examining specific designers' work. To develop design concepts from 2-D to the final garment, students will work from illustrations. Draping is done on dress forms, either full-scale (students' own) or half-scale (provided.) Register early; enrollment limited. Bring your own lunch; refreshments provided. After registering, please contact the instructor at [email protected] for pre-class instructions about dress forms and other information. Topics include: Analyzing the design for duplication, complex draping problems, designer signatures and draping with unusual fabrics for special effects. A materials fee of $30 will be collected in class.
Details on Classes page.

PACC
If you are a member of the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers, you may be interested in the Master Class on on the Art in Fashion Design by Yours Truly for their national conference in Denver in October! Lots of handouts and the secret formula to making it work every time! See PACC
This gorgeous photo is by Timothy Ryan, a former student currently living in NY. It's been shown here before but now this masterpiece is being offered exclusively to you on this list. One feels like jumping in! It is available in 8" x 10" format, perfect for framing. The price is $35 and comes already matted beautifully. To purchase or ask questions, please send him an email directly: [email protected]. (copy & paste this address).

Green Weddings!
They're here -- so support the people making it possible! Check out:
www.OrganicWeddings.com">www.OrganicWeddings.com for organic hemp-silk blends especially for wedding gowns and
www.AuroraSilk.com">www.AuroraSilk.com for silk harvested without killing the worms.
Contact Making Memories, www.MakingMemories.org">www.MakingMemories.org, for recycled wedding gowns to benefit their breast cancer foundation. They have big sales across the country.
Recycle it all and give the next generation a beautiful wedding too.

A Lovely Discovery # 1: Soap Nuts!
These things grow on trees in Indonesia and you put 2 in a little bag and then into the washer and they make soap AND you can use them 3-4 times before you need 2 more! No weird chemicals! So amazing! Available at Whole Foods.

Lovely Discovery # 2: Compost Teabags!
Not kidding -- you buy 'teabags' with compost in them, brew up a batch of fertilizer -- covers 4,000 square feet! You get 12 bags for $10 from www.poultrycompost.com

Lovely Discovery # 3: Arid Solutions!
Where you go to find every little gadget that saves you lakes of water in our driest year in a long time -- effortless, guiltless, cheap, generous to the earth -- A WINNER! Go to Arid Solutions

And, Organic Wool!!
Swobo Jersey - as sporty as wool gets ($96).
NearSea Naturals Yarn - dye-free for knitters.
Fox River Socks - from the folks who brought you corn-based socks come comfy merino pairs in many styles ($12-$16).
SmartWool - full line of New Zealand merino apparel from a company dedicated to ending the inhumane practice of mulesing (prices vary).

Plus, Fiberactive Quilt Company Organic Cotton Napkins
They are made by laid-off textile workers in North Carolina, in 11 fabulous colors ($32/set of 4


Green business is booming. Organic sales are growing at 18% per year; help keep the momentum going.
with Alan le Blanc returns in October with a report on his interview with a Vionnet model, 96 and living in Paris -- her wedding photos and more Vionnet!
Max is in Europe scouting for goodies and Renata is in her garden designing bags -- she writes . . .

Growing up in Rio de Janeiro a city four times bigger than San Francisco I had never imagined living on a farm or even in a house. The beach culture and the concrete jungle were part of my reality. But since I moved to San Francisco 7 years ago, I've started cultivating more the idea of growing herbs and some vegetables in my apartment's balcony. While designing handbags I also started growing cherry tomatoes, rosemary, mint, sage, thyme and etc., anything that would grow in a pot. I was pretty successful. Last year I moved into a house with garden, in the heart of the Mission district! I found myself in this dream world where we grow corn, peas, beans, zucchinis, tomatoes beets, collard greens, strawberries, herbs and some beautiful roses of course!

To continue and see Renata's garden and her new Vionnet bag with the perfect rose on it, go to the Vionnet page.
There was a moment in the 1950's when the rose ruled and women were supposed to resemble roses and be treated accordingly! Women both loved it and hated it -- when they loved it, they dreamed of a Charles James gown like this one, a long-stemmed rose. It set in play the idea of the broader shouldered 'rose' silhouette, which still makes hips disappear!

Nan Kempner, American Chic,
The new exhibition is at the M. H. de Young Museum in San Francisco throughout the summer, honoring the concept of contemporary fashion as Nan Kempner wore it. A fashion leader who defined style, she believed in dressing every day, that making the effort honors those you meet. One of the few exhibits showing contemprary clothing -- be sure to see it!

Vintage Couture: Vintage Vogue
The newest vintage shop in the Bay Area, not even open until July 10th, in case you want to be an early bird! Call first to be sure: 707-942-2240, 1125 Lincoln. The reason this announcement is in the Couture article is that they have the best! Very high quality -- well worth the trip to Calistoga.

PACC in Oct.
If you create couture, treat yourself to a trip to Denver for the national conference of PACC, the Professional Association of Professional Clothiers -- the very group boomers will soon be thanking for making them look good. So, if you are becoming difficult to fit, solve the problem -- go to their website, www.paccprofessionals.org, find a dressmaker in your area and for the same amount it costs to buy good clothes that don't fit, you can have good clothes that do! So simple - so smart.

Liquid Couture, The All-time Best Rose Perfumes . . .
From: Bois de Jasmine, a fabulous perfume review source!
Caron French Cancan
Caron Nuit de No�l
Caron Or et Noir
Comme de Gar�ons Rose (Red Series)
Czech & Speake Dark Rose
Fr�d�ric Malle Lipstick Rose
Fr�d�ric Malle Une Rose
Guerlain Nah�ma
Guerlain Rose Barbare
Keiko Mecheri Gourmandises
Lanc�me 2000 et Une R�se
L'Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses
Les Parfums de Rosine Rosa Flamenca
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d'Amour
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose D'Ete
Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d'Homme
Les Parfums de Rosine Une Folie de Rose
Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zeste de Rose
Montale Aoud Queen Roses
Nelly Rodi Scent Factory #8 Rose
Ormonde Jayne Ta'if
Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit
S-Perfume 100% Love
Checkout:
http://boisdejasmin.typepad.com/_/2006/01/from_white_to_r.html
These patterns are exclusive to Antiquity Press ~ tested by time!

Patterns for Vionnet Roses.

Madeleine Vionnet created several fabric roses which decorated her couture clothes and became her design signature. Three fabric roses in her style are offered here in pattern form:
The Cabbage Rose (in white and rose on top),
The Rolled Rose (3 together on the lower right),
The Picot Rose (in green).
Please go to the Vionnet Page for more information on purchasing the patterns with instructions and to view the roses as they were used on the original gowns.
Look at the title photo on top to see the quintessential Vionnet Picot Rose in red taffeta on a cape coat.

Barbara Ohrbach's Cherchez Garden Smock
Antiquity Press is offering the Cherchez Garden Smock on a 1" grid with instructions on how to enlarge the pattern to full size ( a simple, quick process). The pattern is one size so it is easy to enlarge and fits most. The pattern packet of the gridded sheet with patten and instructions is listed for order on the Order Form page and more photos of the Cherchez smock can be seen on the Patterns Page, link below.

See Antiquity Press Patterns new concept and let me know what you think about it. And, of course, try out this quarter's FREE PATTERN: The Rose Calyx, a floating cloud of a coat on the Patterns Page.
Jenifer " JP" Panter is offering a wonderful service. She is an amazing watercolorist and will do a custom special occasion card for you. For this issue, exclusive here, she did the card you see in the photo, which can be ordered from her website, www.thistlecreekstudio.com Just think, you could have your own sentimental flower on a card that becomes your signature -- also a great idea for wedding invitations and other occasions.

Vintage Fashion Show in San Francisco
Next one is September 22 & 23 at the Nob Hill Masonic Center, 1111 California St. Over the years, I have bought all the best stuff there! Everyone out there is there -- lots and lots of people who only do the shows these days, skipping the bricks and mortar, so if you think you've seen it -- you haven't!

4th Annual San Francisco International Textile Expo
Sunday and Monday, August 5 & 6 at the Herbst Pavilion at Fort Mason. This show is a total GIFT to us! Beautiful fabrics, many organic, many designer level, many with no minimums, zillions of colors, fabulous displays -- all brought to us on a silver platter at wholesale prices. You must go -- just to be dazzled!

Charles A Whitaker Auction Company
Sign up for the notices on their website, www.whitakerauction.com, and you'll be informed of one of the best auction events for the best vintage clothing. Doyle Gallery in New York is no longer taking individual pieces just estate collections. Whitaker takes many or few, sells long distance and has beautiful photos so you can see the clothes very well -- great design ideas! Next one is in October.

The Poiret Show in New York
-- up until August 5 at the Costume Institute at the Met. A show beyond belief due to the huge amount of pieces never seen before and purchased recently from his widow. Can't go? Get the catalog!

Automotivated
If you are in Phoenix, don't miss this show focused on streamlining in design, including the bias dresses from the 1930's. It's at the Phoenix Art Museum -- they are a happening group with an official Curator of Fashion Design and a ever growing fine collection. Up until Sept. 2.

La Vie en Rose, the life of Edith Piaf in film
A fitting tribute to a rose personified. Her sound was part of post-war America. As a small child, I heard her voice on the radio everywhere as people lived their sadness. See the film to understand her impact on the world then and in doing so, you will feel the times as they were. It was about the heart.

A Free Financial Planning Course -- The Fundamentals of Personal Financial Planning
No strings attached -- offered by UC at Irvine, online. No excuse for not planning ahead these days -- it's do or die!! See ocw.uci.edu/courses (click on Fundamentals of Personal Financial Planning).

Ashtown West is here!
This is the source for the most exquisite antique roses ever! Finally they have a western office! Go to http://www.ashdownroses.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=455

Secret Prize!
Your secret prize for reading down this far is Isaac Sultan"http://www.isaacsultan.com/ ">http://www.isaacsultan.com/
Go there are you get big discounts on lingerie. These guys are an old NY source, known mostly to the industry only . . and now you!
By Jennifer Gordon
After a devastating encounter with lots and lots of moths in her house, Jennifer took herself to moth school, became an expert and now, gratefully, we learn how to avoid a similar fate from our moth guru!!

Webbing clothes moths are very small, � inch in length, with golden wings. They don't like light and are not the moths flying around your lamps. Moths do not eat your clothes; they don't eat at all. They just breed and your job is to prevent that from happening, because when their eggs hatch, the damage begins.
My home was infested last year. Here's what I learned:
When you're married to a glass blower, amazing glass magic happens -- right in the fire! This time it is a Glass Rose, by Ed Breed, available in oranges as shown, reds, or pinks. Worn as a pendant on a sterling silver collar, the rose is about 1.5 inches in diameter. Go to the Glass Rose to see the entire necklace and purchasing details.
For all the years Ed Breed and I have been together, he has always drawn this little character for me on special occasions. This year I received a rose from Pepi on our 22nd year together and so he makes his debut here to celebrate!

copyright, Ed Breed, 2007

Upcoming Issues

Volume 2, Issue 4, Oct. 1, The Design Issue

Answering the questions: 'What is good design?, How does it happen?, Who's doing the best?

Volume 3, Issue 1, January 1, 2008

The first year of retiring boomers! What does it mean to the fashion industry? To us all? Most of all, how to use the optical illusions popular during in the Golden Age of Couture, when the most beautiful women . . . were grown-ups!

Now, clip a rose to your collar with an old clothespin and go forth . . .

with all the best, Sandy


Sandy Ericson
Antiquity Press

phone & fax: 707-967-0852
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