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The human body doesn't change, only
the 'dominant ideal'
changes, that is, what
people think the body OUGHT to look like.
Now, as the demographics give us more older
people who value comfort and elegance and
also more younger people who value physical
action and less restraint in their clothing
(not to mention less coverage!), Madeleine
Vionnet's designs have new relevance for us all.
Here is a photo of what is known as the
4-Square dress. In the free pattern section
below there are the dimensions of the the
dress so you can make it. This dress can be
made of any fabric, worn back to front, can
fit any figure, can be worn with a sleeved
garment underneath and can be used for any
event from a debut to gardening. Plus you
can fold the wings back with a sash over them
or put
buttonholes under the wings for a sash --
letting them
fly free.
Vionnet concentrated on the fabric and the
cut of it so there is little hardware,
facings, interfacings, linings, shoulder pads
or interior structure to her clothes. Today
even those without advanced sewing skills can
make them quickly and wear them comfortably
-- looking as elegant as the day they walked
down the runway in Paris.
This spring, with the financial assistance of
Barney's NY, the House of Vionnet was revived
under the design leadership of Sophia
Kokosalaki. For a peek at the runway of her
first line
for Vionnet, please
click here.
In May, I am offering a 4-day intensive
Madeleine Vionnet Symposium that will study
her work in depth, reproduce her draped
designs and explore her cutting and
construction methods in the fabrics that she
used. There are a few places left. For more
details go to the Classes page . . .
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Draping and Designing With
Scissors and Cloth, 1920's and 1930's!
The originals were published by the Women's Institute in the 1920's and 30's and Antiquity Press reprinted it in the 1980's. They have detailed instructions on how to drape flapper and bias dresses for the Art Deco era, also shawls, with lots of illustrations. The 1920's book has the instructions for the Basque dresses which were made famous by Paul Poiret whose work will be the theme of the next show at the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum in New York. Go to the Books Page for ordering details and to see sample diagrams from the books! Fashioning Fabrics: Contemporary Textiles
in Fashion
by Elyssa Da Cruz and Sandy Black Blackdog. ISBN # 1904772412. For the truly adventurous, this book shows you how to wear anything and everything! Sleeves from rubber tires!! How can one resist? BOOK SALE!! All used books on the
Antiquity Press Book page are still 30% off!
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This is the business logo for the House of
Vionnet during Madeleine's time, to remind
you to brand your business and be consistent
about it.
The next few items are repeated because they are so effective at helping put you on the map and make money. Hourly Wage Calculator, CD
Do you have a sneaky suspicion you're not making very much per hour? Contact Joyce Murphy at JMS Tailoring Tools & Teaching. www.jsmpatterns.com She has just finished creating the Hourly Wage Calculator CD. I bought one for the artist in our family and he immediately raised his prices! They also have the pricing software for alterations. Survival Kit for Custom Clothiers
If you're a self-employed dressmaker, custom tailor, or bridal specialist - or if you're starting your sewing business soon - The Small Office Survival Kit For Custom Clothiers is the only comprehensive business planner and office organizer you'll ever need. Great for small or short run businesses! www.the-sos.com PWStudio 2
This new version of the best patternmaking software for small garment businesses is out and available. Easier, much less expensive and more wonderful than before -- and before was amazing! They will give you a 30-day full program for $20 so you can see for yourself. It's CAD program so you have to be familiar with those. Can work on the Intel MAC running Windows. www.patternworks-intl.com/www/software.htm HowtoConsign.com
A very informative site on this growing business. As the boomers retire (starting next year) and there is increased pressure to recycle everything to save the planet, the consignment industry will be quite profitable. The split now is 60% to the business on every sale and 40% to the consignor -- think about the potential to be profitable!! Trends to Bank On
The coming year is bringing back the retro trends of the 1930’s and 1940’s. 1. Yellow Canary yellow tops have the front page as we go for a more retro look. You are going to be as bright as the sun wearing that yellow top that is definitely retro. There should be at least one of these yellow tops as part of your wardrobe. This is what you should expect to see on Jennifer Anniston, Julia Roberts and other actresses. This is the color to wear to look sharp. No heavy embroidery but much softer like lace. 2. Wooden Heel Sandal The wooden heel sandal is what all the ladies will be wearing. Whether your wearing Steve Madden, or Nine West. Can’t go out without those chunky heels. 3. Crop Jacket The fitted crop jacket is still hot whether you are wearing a trench coat, winter coat, or a jacket for the office. The short jacket is in. 4. Grecian Dress Yes, this was big last year, but if you were planning to get rid of your Grecian dress I wouldn’t just yet. It is still among the fanciest of frocks to be worn in the coming year. The little black dress is out. Paris Hilton wore the dress and so should you. Madeleine Vionnet was a legendary French designer who established her fashion house in 1912 and became famous for her Grecian-style that is the rage. We may see some dresses in metallic but they are in. 5. Layered Bracelets You have those bracelets at home sitting in your jewelry box, put them on whether they or big or small. Layer them up on your arm. These should be as chunky as the shoes. 6. Menswear Nothing is still sexier than seeing a woman dressed in her man’s clothes. 7. Wide Leg Jeans The slim leg jean was in last year that is why the wide leg jean is in now. Hit the road wearing those jeans with that retro 1970’s look. The legs will be flared. Along with this we will still metallic such as sliver, gold and bronze in fashion and big handbags such as Vera Bradley. There will also be lots of glitter. Kusumahome | Life Style - Mode - Design | http://www.kusumahome.com/2007/02/06/the-7-fashion-trends-for-2007/ |
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They are held in St. Helena at Napa Valley
College, Upvalley Center. If you call
707-967-2901, you'll get a live person who
can put
you on a mailing list for the catalog. If you
or your group
has
an idea for a class or a
ready group for one, let me know!. Go to the
Antiquity
Press Classes page for more details.
Spring
Design With Scissors and Cloth
2
4 Days: Sat, April 14; Sat/Sun, April 21 & 22; Sun, April 29 --- 9:30 to 5:30. This is the next intermediate level of draping for design and fit in which participants learn to analyze fashion designs and drape specific designs. Details on Classes page. For more information on all classes, see the Classes page. Summer
Madeleine Vionnet Symposium in May! There
are still a few places left!
For the first time since 1994, there will be a serious voyage into the depths of Vionnet's work. Four days of in-depth design analysis, draping, patterns, construction and textile exploration. All the techniques of Vionnet along with the bias cut. Held in downtown St. Helena, the center of the Napa's wine country with great restaurants and shopping. Walking distance to everything, no car needed. Details on Classes page. For more information on all classes, see the Classes page. Flat Pattern Design
At California College of the Arts in July, there will be a course in flat paper pattern making for their Community Education curriculum. Bring a photo of your dream dress and make the pattern! Three weekends -- hot and fast!! Details coming soon at their site. Fall
Fashion Design
Starting in late August for 3 weekends, there will be an intensive course on the arts of fashion design. A review of all the art principles and how they are applied to clothing. It will be a practical, hands-on course that covers textiles, color, figure illusions, the quick-draw and many more topics that ensure a successful garment design for you. Late Fall: Draping With
Scissors and Cloth 3
This course in the same 4-day format as DWSC 2 above, brings us to an advanced level of designing/draping in which participants develop their own interpretations of a given design, manipulate draped designs to flatter a variety of proportions and drape more complex designs -- perfect for custom dressmakers and other professionals working with several different figures. Details on Classes page. For more information on all classes, see the Classes page. California School of Professional Fabric
Design
In the Bay Area, this school has been operating for 27 years and I've heard good things about it for some time. With the prevalence of technology, highly professional work is now possible from home computers, which means that a person could have their own small business designing fabrics. Check out their catalog. www.fabricschool.com Puccio & Mackay
Weekend shoemaking classes -- mostly in Ohio but they come out here once a year. Get on their list so you know when next and make yourself a pair of pumps. They also have handbag, boots, sandals and hat making classes! www.puccioandmackay.com |
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A Lovely Discovery
One of the big and most distressing issues in the fashion industry is the seeming disregard for the environment and the pervasive lack of conservative practices. True, there are pockets of conscientious people doing some great things but world-wide the industry is huge and there needs to be much more done. This website is the all-time BEST combination of sustainability and fashion! Subscribe, support their mission and feast your eyes on some of the most gorgeous clothes ever. They have managed to crack the haute couture level in going sustainable, proving to us all that anyone can. Notice how much Deborah's pieces have the Vionnet sensibility. fiftyRX3 Bad news
Recently there have been some articles about the chemicals in shampoos and cosmetics that are absorbed into the skin and behave like estrogens in the body, notably phalates and parabens (check ingredients always). This is a growing issue because these chemicals are in addition to those from other sources such as discarded medicines in water supplies, hormones and antibiotics in foods, flame retardants and nano particles. The best thing to do is buy organic cosmetics, preferably locally made. Two to look for are Juice Beauty (San Raphael)and EO (SF). You'll find them at Whole Foods. Fashion Industry Impact on Global
Warming
GreenDimes.com.
This is the best $3 a month ever spent. For that paltry amount they take care of making sure you never get any more CATALOGS! A service from heaven. AND they plant zillions of trees on your behalf! www.GreenDimes.com Environmental Impact of Clothing Report
This is an audio report and extremely important. Lisa Mullins speaks with Julian Allwood, a professor at the University of Cambridge in England, about the environmental impact of clothing. Researchers say the way we make and care for clothes has a negative impact on the environment. To listen, go to. Repeat: Nanotech is the New
No-No!
There are now 350 products with nano-particles in and on them, a 70% jump since March and still no regulation of their use or studies of long term effects on health. They are the new stain-resistant finishes on clothes and are in sunscreens and cosmetics. The issue is that they are so small they can pass through the blood-brain membrane that surrounds the brain. The jury is out on what happens then. Check the Internet for more info. Go to Nanowerk to read the article. Buy sustainable and you and your
children will be
sustained -- use public
transportation!!!
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Alan Le Blanc has literally FOUND a Lost
Possible Vionnet!
Every indication is that it is a true Vionnet garment -- the concept, the execution and, most importantly, it is almost identical to a published verified sleeve pattern in the Vionnet book by Betty Kirke. It is a triumph of Paris flea marketing!! Five Euros! Read Alan's story about how he found it. An Enigmatic Masterpiece from an Era Long
Gone by Alan Le Blanc
Recently I acquired a crumpled garment at a
Paris flea market which has enchanted me &
intrigued me ever since. As soon as I put
its liquid bias-cut form on my mannequin, I
recognized a major research of haute
couture-level draping, from a designer with
an experienced eye. I had found a relic with
a level of artistic work that no one does any
more. Continue
reading . . .
IQONS
Also, from Alan, one of his favorite websites -- lets you rate the fashion shows with great videos of the catwalks AND a ""You Wear it Well/Got a Minute?" feature that let's you submit your fashion clip. Alan says be sure to read the interview with Maria Luisa, the famous "career maker" of several important designers. She focuses on the "petite quantit", the exceptional piece and her Paris shop is the first step for many unknown talented designers. She sheds light on the current critical situation for beginning talents, & for Fashion in general. Jump to IQONS. He is tying up the loose ends of his last
collection from Paris -- we think. Although
he has been known to abandon Paris before,
only to be mysteriously pulled back from the
tarmac. Right now the plan is still
to head for NY!
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Their column is is the view from the other
side of 45! Here we, both sides of 45, are
in our Vionnets at the Fairmont a few years
ago!
Max and Renata Say . . .
Madeleine Vionnet was one of those brilliant
minds
ahead of her time in fashion. With such a great
understanding of the woman’s body, she changed
the way not only designers thought about dressing
women, but also about the way women themselves
wanted to dress, affecting future
generations. Her
style
came from a backlash against the confinements
of the . . . continue
reading
The LA Textile Show With Max
Max is going to the Los Angeles Textile Show -- a real block buster in the buy fabric world -- it is ALL there! If you would like to go with her, let her know: maxlarosa@hotmail.com Renata is getting married!!
In Brazil in April! Wearing, of course, a killer white satin bias cut 1930's dress. A dream and a half. There will be photos in the July 1st. newsletter. She and David will be living in the US so the column lives. Congratulations to two wonderful, creative people in their new life together. |
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The New House of Vionnet: A
Review by Sandra Ericson
Sophia Kokosalaki shows her first line for
Vionnet -- so, has she done it? So far so good.
While she has not had the time to grow into
the entire body of knowledge that was
Vionnet, her first collection is a reasonable
start.
From published views, it seems to be
dominated by evening or black and both make
it difficult to assess whether the depth of
creativity embodied by Vionnet will surface
as Kokosalaki moves into daytime and less
cooperative fabrics. Read
on . . . .
Halston is hitchhiking -- again!
Just as in the 1970's when Halston adopted the clean, sculptural lines and construction of Vionnet, hitchhiking on her look, the Halston name is also being revived now, a la Vionnet. Check out whose involved, go to FiftyRX3 Cathy Horyn, Fashion Editor for the New York
Times
wrote a sleeper recently. A sleeper is an item that signals the beginning of a major change but didn't make a big initial impact. Her sleeper concept in the article, which you can access below, basically said that even those at the top of the fashion ladder are bailing due to the prices. A tipping point has been reached! The last dollars are being wrung from major labels and her article goes on to explain what fashion followers are doing about it, subbing. There is even a chart of which lower priced brands can sub for the big ones and no one would guess. The business message here is that smaller, more local brands will get the sales! Yes! Her article starts by saying, "It may be that I
am too sensitive, but I
cringe when I hear a luxury tycoon say, as he
kisses his manicured fingertips, ''Fay-shunn
should make you dream.'' Easy for him to say.
Fashion is horribly expensive. And when did
designer clothes get so far beyond ordinary
reach that it became necessary to give them
an air of sanctity and suffering, as though
we were pilgrims not for Mecca but for Prada?"
Even thought his article is only accessible to subscribers of TimesSelect. on line, check it out at the Library. Professional Association of Custom
Clothiers
OK, you're making clothes for people and you're thinking wish I knew_________________ (fill in the blank). Well, PACC is where to go -- someone there can answer every question from how much to charge to where to find supplies to how to deal with a problem client. Join. Their events are warm and fuzzy, filled with great people and interesting programs. Go to PACC |
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From the Paris Flea Market direct to you, the
pattern for the Lost Possibly Vionnet!
Marvelous things come to those who subscribe
-- MUCH applause to Alan for sharing it with us!!
For the dimensions and instructions for the
Four-Square Dress, scroll down on the
Patterns page.
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SugarDaddy's Consignment
Discovered a winner, right in my backyard! A great new place with excellent prices and right in the same town as all those hot springs. Located at 1117B Lincoln Ave. in Calistoga. So bring up your stuff, take the baths, collect your money and pay for the whole weekend! Hot Couture
One of the best vintage places! A truly kind couple, Marta and John, own it and every customer is a friend. Amazing stuff -- big store -- and right in Santa Rosa's Old Town near at least 4 antique shops and 2 never-fail thrift stores = a day worth the trip! Right off 101N. Nor-Mar Fabrics
So, years ago Norma (owner of Nor-Mar, of course) opened a fabric store in an old stone building in Napa and used her New York contacts to tap into a supply of the most gorgeous fabrics -- serious couture level goods. They are STILL there -- same fabrics as Britex, lower priced, less selection but great finds! Nor-Mar is located at 1327 Main St. in Napa. Take the First St. exit off Hwy 129 in Napa, go downtown to Main and make a left. The Museum at the Fashion Institute of
Technology in New York
Their exhibitions are get better all the time! The new ones are:
If NY is a regular stop, think about joining the Couture Council, some great events with the stars! Fashion Trendsetter
For the future-challenged fashionista, a site which helps you figure out what's coming up -- done well too - very classy! Check it out. Fashion Net
This website is "a guide to ALL things chic." Lots of places to subscribe to keep you in the know and raise your aim. Check it out too! Tigresse
News from one of our own, Nicole Lenzen, who does incredibly beautiful gowns right here in the Bay Area. She has a new newsletter called 'Lady in Green' -- just as beautiful as the gowns! See it here. From Cari Borja:
"Finally, I will be moving into a design studio at 2117 4th street (between Addison and Allston Way) in Berkeley, just 2 blocks south of the main shopping area. I will be moving in this summer, and will have a retail front open to the public 3 days a week. I will plan an opening some time late summer/early fall, so if please send me your info to be on my mailing list". And finally! The next big ART DECO
Sale
It will be held June 2-3 at the Concourse on 8th and Brannan in SF. If you've never been, you will deeply regret all the years you missed. Catch-up and go see! |
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Volume 2, Issue 3
Sandy Ericson
Antiquity Press
email:
info@antiquitypress.com
phone & fax:
707-967-0852
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