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Clothing
A Quarterly Collection of Designs, Patterns, Events, Classes and Ideas From Antiquity Press
October, 2006 - Vol 1, Edition 3
In This Issue
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Shoes

They are the embodiment of small, perfect constructions, the identifiers of the moment, the announcement of the psyche and the final bond between the you and reality. After all, if you can't walk in them, loving them more won't make it possible. At once they tie us to the earth and transport us to our dreams. So be a dream-maker, come with me to make some shoes!

I have just returned from learning to make hand-sewn Cordwainer Shoes in New Hampshire -- they give lessons!. So, if you click on the photo of my new green Cordwainer oxfords, you'll be at the shoe page on my website to begin your shoe journey. We'll cover handsewn and glued both, with lots of photos of finished shoes.

Sandy Ericson, Editor

Look I: It's About the Shape of the Clothes, Not the Body.

FORM, FORM, FORM is the new approach to dressing. This Donna Karan coat is symbolic of the strength and elegance of a beautiful form in fabric. Look for similar garments that posses an independent form and still identify lovely proportions. This hasn't been done well since the late 50's and early 60's.
In general, clothing design is of two types, either the shape of the clothing is cut in like architecture by genius patternmakers or the body itself determines the shape of the garment with treatments like the bias, knits and soft fabrics. So, since the boomers are the market and their shapes are a changing, now is the time to bring back architectural clothing and there are two types, soft and crisp. Continue . . .

Look II: It's Back to Reality

What reality? Which one? The one where people were more a part of their environment, voluntarily or not. Think before-central-heating and you've got the look that is everywhere. We've all faced the facts that the price and availability of energy and transportation is a problem and threatening to become more so. Throw in a declining economy and the looming political revolution and the mood that drives designers this fall season makes sense. The last time all these factors were in place we called it Beat, as in beating the system. Continue . . .

Leggings are Back!

On this subject, there is a history! These rules below apply to the go-to-work mode.
Rule 1: If you’re thin, young and adorable, there are no rules. You get a free pass. If you’re not, read the rest of the rules. However, with your free pass, you may not be taken seriously or trusted with much responsibility – a bummer but a cultural truth.
Rule 2: Colors: Colors other than dark ones do not work (legs will look thick), use mostly dark, dark brown or black this season. Match the color of the legs to the shoes. There’s hardly a woman of wage-earning age who can’t benefit from their legs looking longer and matching does it. Continue . . .

Coming Up

As I write the New York shows for spring are just finishing up -- the word seems to be LIGHT, light fabrics, light colors and more tubular silhouettes, as in no-waist. Given the rising temperatures we have now, this direction makes the best of it.
~ ~ ~
The second theme that is emerging is the effect of the boomer demographic bubble. There are more middle-aged and, therefore, more independent women now than ever before and fashion will reflect both factors. We will see more fashion that reflects the identity of the wearer rather than peer pressure. Should be an interesting time!
  • Vionnet Returns I should live so long! Sophia Kokosalaki, 33, will debut her first collection for the revived house of Madeleine Vionnet in the spring of 2007. From what I've seen she's got a grip on the concepts so let's all hope we'll see the modern, beautifully cut clothes for real life as was Vionnet's signature. See her pre-Vionnet gold dress on the left.

  • PACC comes to San Francisco! The Professional Association of Custom Clothiers will hold its national conference in SF Nov. 3-7 with a big show, banquet, Master Classes, workshops, vendors -- the works! For anyone with any urge to make anything out of fabric, this is 'IT'. I'll be doing two Master Classes (on Mon., repeated Tues.), with draping included, on the techniques of Madeleine Vionnet. There is a special 'observer' registration at a lesser price for those who just want to watch or registered late. See Quicklinks for their website to register.

  • Next Doyle Gallery Couture Auction: Thursday, November 16 at 10am, Exhibition: November 11 - 14 "The international fashion world will converge at this popular sale when a century of important designs created by the world's most legendary couturiers goes on the auction block. Also offered are costume jewelry, handbags and accessories, in addition to American, European and Asian textiles and fine linens and laces." Just looking at the online catalog will show you excellent photos of many never-seen-before pieces -- great for design ideas!

  • Stitches West. February 22-25. Mark your calendar for this show of knitting heaven right down the road in Santa Clara. See Quicklinks.

  • Artistry in Fashion, October 21 -- a local key event for both designer scouts and amazing new talent. Held every year by the Canada College Fashion Design Department in Redwood City. This is always a hot ticket! See Quicklinks for info.

  • Green Festival, November 10-12 at the Concourse on 8th St. in San Francisco. Time to face it -- we're up against some serious ecological limitations in our future. So go to the Green Festival and learn how to make the transition from consumer to conserver with class and fun. It's all there.

  • L.A. Textile Show, November 28-29 at the LA: California Market Center. 800-CAL.MART. This show has EVERYTHING, I mean EVERYTHING you could ever possibily be looking for. LA is the center of the Calif. garment industry - so, if you're in business or even thinking about it, go and learn landscape down there.

  • James Galanos: Photographs A show of 60 constructivist collages, September 22 to Oct. 21 at the Serge Sorokko Gallery, 231 Grant Ave., SF. Gallery Hours: 10 - 6 daily. Why see this show? Galanos is one of very few living world class American couturiers. When you see this show, you'll understand how to design clothes. It's that simple.

  • Sewing Stitchery Expo, the largest sewing show in the nation is scheduled for March 1,2,3,4 in Puyallup, Washington. A blockbuster -- you have to go at least once in your life! www.sewexpo.com

  • QVC Breast Cancer Fundraiser -- October 18 -- 7 - 10PM. All designer shoes HALF PRICE!!

  • (I'm leaving up these first two book sources because they are just so good)
    Making and Marketing Better Art Work by Milon Townsend, a glass artist, is an excellent small book for any creative micro business. If you have designed it and made it, he covers everything you need to know -- to the point, clear, no-nonsense micro business advice.

    Books on Cloth, a listing of fashion books for sale, by Fred Struthers in Fort Bragg, has been my main source for all the rare books I've been buying for years. In order to beat those competitive New Yorkers, the minute you get the catalog, drop everything, read and phone in what you want. We get it first out here so you have an advantage! To get on his mailing list email him: fsbks@mcn.org

    New book! Fashion Design, by Sue Jenkyn Jones (Watson-Guptil, 2nd. Ed., 2005) It's a veritable design school!

    New York Moves -- the magazine. This a great magazine for women who live in cities or those who want to look like they do when they're there. This magazine lets you know about competitive chic on-the-hoof -- stuff you can use in any city and a few chicy villages.

    The Bra-Makers Manual by Beverly Johnson. This thing is the bible on the subject, long-awaited and great for entrepreneurs in the lingerie business or anyone who figures they can make a better one than they're wearing. Has info on prosthesis and supplies.$85 Bramakers.com; 905-538-1396.

    BOOK SALE!! All books on the Book page are 30% off -- just in time for gift-giving season. Shop for books . . .
    Erin Mahoney's Brocades. A dropped waist and full skirt does wonders to make the waist look smaller -- it's all relative! Erin Mahoney

    THEY DID IT!! And very well. Congrats to Erika Gessin and her team! To bring back San Francisco as a leader in the fashion world and to be unique to itself, there were several things that had to happen:
    1. We had to compete seriously for the top end -- in style, finish and production. The shows during fashion week delivered the goods there, capturing both the all-important dazzling glamour and the wearability with our climate and lifestyle.
    2. We had to bring the next generation into self-awareness. The workshops during Fashion Week helped to clarify and unify the SF image -- it is a profitable brand and attendees got the message.
    3. Fashion Week had to be inclusive. We're pretty democratic here so having something for everyone brings the crowds and they were there -- self-expressing like mad and being absolutely delightful -- such a great joy to be there! For more photos of Fashion Week . . .

    Also saw Kristi Chatham from the CCSF days. She has a hot little company in a hot little niche -- Nascar wear! It's called Betty's Garage and she and her husband sell 50's cute right at the race site from their customized rig. Inspired! See her photo . . .

    And Rae Gedlamen was there with her jewelry company, Jester Swink -- chic, arty, simple and powerful pieces all at the same time. Scroll down to see photos too . . .

    Let's see, we have a healthy renaissance of Fashion Week and the Textile Show, we have the nation's best art-to-wear people right here, we have the new de Young with it's big plans for fashion exhibits, we have Bloomies, we have a whole nest of fashion schools and programs and we have some classy people. Let's do our part, ladies and gents, 'dress' everyday, show our gratitude and buy locally!
    They are held in St. Helena at Napa Valley College, Upvalley Center. If you call 707-967-2901, you'll get a live person who can put you on a mailing list for the catalog. If you have an idea for a class or a ready group for one, let me know at the beginning of the previous semester.

    Fall

    Design With Scissors and Cloth

    4 Days: October 8, Sun.; 14, Sat.; 15, Sun.; 21, Sat. ----- 9:30 to 5:30.
    And it's free!
    Using the human form, you will learn to sculpt with fabric. It is similar to the difference between two-dimensional painting and three-dimensional clay sculpting, except we will use fabric instead of clay to create a 3-D garment or costume. For more info go to Classes page.

    Spring

    Design With Scissors and Cloth 2

    4 Days: Sat, April 14; Sat/Sun, April 21 & 22; Sun , April 29 --- 9:30 to 5:30.
    This is the next level of draping for design and fit. Details on Classes page.

    Global Warming:
    OK. If you have been seized with guilt over all that carbon emitted so you can just flit all over the globe -- the problem has been solved! Yes! Go to Climate Care and off-set YOUR carbon dioxide. Now that you know about this, you'll feel even more guilty for not doing it -- Aghhhh -- so just pay up.

    How to Clean Anything and Not Pay for It With Your Health.
    From Real Money published by Co-op America we get the following essentials:
    Stock your cupboards with these ten products, and you can clean just about anything:
    1) WHITE VINEGAR: An antifungal that also kills germs and bacteria.
    z) BAKING SODA: Eliminates odors and works as a gentle scouring powder.
    3) BORAX: Borax, the common name for the natural mineral compound sodium borate, eliminates odors, removes dirt, and acts as an antifungal and possible disinfectant. Use with care around children and pets, as it can be toxic if swallowed. Continue . . .

    Lehman's There's more than one way to get off the grid and save on PG&E!
    It's The place the Amish have been getting their supplies forever -- they don't use electricity and now you can pass on it too. Send for Lehman's Non-Electric Catalog and amaze yourself. Go to www.lehmans.com. Everything from butane irons to refrigerators is in there, but no electricity!.

    Ideal Bite. This website is run by two women who bring ecological common sense right down to the user. If you subscribe to their newsletter, you get a daily tip about some everyday thing that really makes a big difference. Big, big help in decisionmaking so that your life is one of ecological integrity. See their tips on apparel here.

    A Warning. It is becoming a serious medical problem that many unused prescription drugs are being identified in drinking water. DO NOT dispose of medicines through the sewage system where they may wind up in groundwater or in treated clean water -- they are often undetected by current treatment systems.
    by Alan Le Blanc . . . this time in Biarritz!

    It is almost women’s Fashion season here again in Paris, & it coincides with the first bout of decent weather we have had all year. Of course for me, the big news is the Vionnet collection. The designer is a graduate of Central St. Martin’s of London, Sophia Kokosalaki. I don’t know what to expect. Following up the legendary Madeleine Vionnet will be quite the role to fill. The designer's previous work looks more like a tribute to Madame Gr�s than anything Vionnet. The man who owns the label since 1988, Guy de Lummen, had previously launched a little Vionnet boutique on the Rue de la Paix near the Place Vendome, but that boutique was not very Vionnet nor very interesting. It offered easy, uninspired scarves, umbrellas, & ties that recalled some of the famous embroideries of Vionnet, but . . .
    We have a new dynamic duo reporting on the San Francisco fashion scene, Max Schroeder and Renata Martens. They attended the recent Fashion Week Workshop on San Francisco Style and did such a great job sharing their take on the SF look, I asked them to look around more and put it in print!

    Max & Renata Reporting:
    The San Francisco Fashion week had its third edition to the delight of many fashion SF followers. It is difficult to imagine that a city so cosmopolitan and with an amazing diversity of cultures is still beginning to “crawl” in the fashion world. But thanks to “Mystery Girl Productions” it looks like we are ready to step up. These fabulous women put together a series of workshops for the aspiring local designer.
    We always felt a little skeptical of workshops offered by fashion people in their incredibly competitive world, but it turned out that the workshop we attended “What is San Francisco Style” by Brandin Bar�n-Nusbaum, was a great surprise! An expert who is very well spoken and as chic as his name, he offered a workshop that defined the style of a city which isn't known for very strong fashion style. With a very interesting but short photo presentation he gave us a view of the many tribes and their neighborhoods that habituate the city and how they use in their favor “the 4 seasons in a day syndrome”. Yes, we do experience 4 seasons a day and we . . .
  • Timothy Ryan. This heavenly photo is the work of Timothy Ryan in New York. Some of you may remember him from our sewing classes. He's working for an event planner in NY doing amazing social events, writing a screenplay and practicing his first love, photography. This photo is in the finals for a serious photo prize!

  • Free CD. To receive a free CD right from the researchers of all the environmental causes of breast cancer so you can avoid it, go to Vasser College Do this now, it is a gift from them to you.

  • Lifelike Dress Forms. There is a company making dress forms for companies and persons that act just like soft human body in your measurements -- cost $2,000+ but then it is REALLY you! Shapely Shadow

  • For New Designers. Just check out this place in NY: Edge New York. Now all get together and do it here -- it's how Henri Bendel started and is still going!

  • GreenStone Media. Finally! A women's talk radio network!! If you've ever wondered when and how a more sensible approach to social and world problems would ever be heard, the wait is over. Stream their programs on www.greenstoneradio.com.

  • Ralph Lauren's Decision. He has decided not to use fur in any of his apparel or home collections, based purely on ethical grounds. A standing ovation for the man!

  • Raquel Lopez Designs. Not just a fabulous dressmaker but a flamenco dress specialist -- think 'perfectly fitted' with your arms over your head -- not easy -- a performance pro in a special niche and one of our own besides! The news is she has a new website: Raquel Lopez Designs

  • This is from an early 1900's pattern for a bifurcated petticoat, perhaps for bloomers and bicycles? Loved the no-darts and the barely attached inseams -- not to mention the adjustable waist! Imagine them full length in white satin, Harlow lives.


    For the pattern and two slipper patterns to go with, see the Patterns page.

    _____________________________________


    Today is World Vegetarian Day which makes it appropriate for each of us to think deeply about the origins of our consumption. As end-users, we are responsible for the whole food chain and its effects on the quality of life of everyone, humans and animals.
    It is being grateful for what we have and making sure we're not the last to enjoy it.

    Voting. It turns out that two of the most guilty groups for not voting and not even being registered are single women and minorities! It is so bad that a very tiny portion of the people in California decide everything. Please register and vote -- nothing will ever be better for us all unless YOU do.
    Register now and determine to vote.
    Many thanks.

    Volume 2, Issue 1, will be published on January 1, 2007.
    Art-to-wear and the new emphasis on self-expression will be the focus -- the Bay Area is the national home for wearable art!


    If you like Clothing, tell a friend with the 'forward email' link below!

    Enjoy autumn and remember we're more alike than we are different.


    Sandy Ericson
    Antiquity Press

    phone & fax: 707-967-0852
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