Clothing
A Quarterly Collection of Designs, Patterns, Events, Classes and Ideas From Antiquity Press
April 2006 - Vol 1, Edition 1
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Clothing is different from fashion. It has economic ramifications based on supply and not sales, cuts through social competition and concentrates on the how and why; it empahsizes artistic principles over celebrity and provides identity; it recognizes the true value of materials, designs and craft; celebrates longevity; combats waste and must protect the environment with each decision. The best clothing lasts a long time and we love it every minute. This newsletter attempts to bring together clothing ideas for making life satisfying while increasing our awareness of our own impact on this world so it is a clothing newsletter, not a fashion newsletter. Those of us in the clothing world, like others, are living in a time of required synchronicity. You have to think across the spectrum in order to make the new connections that a business or an individual needs move forward. May the words found here make that possible for more of us.

Sandy Ericson, Editor

Spring 2006 Design Analysis ~ Fit and Proportion At Last!

Photos from Glamour Magazine

In this column I will detail the main factors in analyzing seasonal fashion changes and hopefully, once the main factors are identified, it will be easier to pick the ones that enhance your own style. In the end, my hope is that the reader will be able to vertically dig deeper into themselves to express cultural influences rather than progressing on a horizontal basis, buying the next thing that comes along simply because it came along.

In analyzing fashion trends, fashion is defined as a “moving target”, a changing zeitgeist that is subject to cultural influence of all kinds; it is outward based. Style, on the other hand, is inward based and is generated by the identity and personality of the wearer. Since these personal factors change less often than the culture, personal stylespan more closely corresponds to the physical lifespan of most clothing – a good match, in other words. Occasionally, if a person has wealth or can create their own clothes or adopts a generic approach to dressing, both fashion and style can integrate chronologically. For most there is a constant need to interpret individual style within the confines of topical fashion – becoming at times a perpetual conveyor belt of daily assembly to the loss of one at the expense of the other.
Rumors

  • The Meadows Museum in Dallas, Texas, will have a Balenciaga show in September and will have a catalog. The show will feature Claudia Heard, an heiress who wore Balenciaga's flamenco ruffles and capes. For those of you that missed the last big show of his work (born too late?) -- don't miss this one!

  • April 11. Doyle New York, a decorative arts auction house in New York will have an auction of vintage clothing. You can bid long distance on the items, purchase the catalog and go to their website to see what's up for auction. They have an amazing collection of photos for ideas. I have 2 cocktail hats, a Dior and a Balenciaga, a Jacques Fath lavender taffeta cocktail dress, a Lily Ann suit and a Howard Greer starlet dress in the auction. In the fall auction I'll have my Lily Ann coats and suits.

  • Sale Starts April 5! Lapin, a vintage clothing and gift store is closing and everything goes, including store fixtures, fabric and patterns -- I can't make it so you have a clean shot at it! 5337 College Ave., Oakland, CA 94618. Wed-Sat. 11-6 & Sun. 12-5. 510-595-0724.

  • May 21 - 23. Surtex, THE BIG SHOW for selling and licensing your art and design will happen in New York at the Jacob Javits Convention Center. If you're thinking it is time for the big time - GO. If you want to know what the big time is - GO.

  • Pluckings Open Studio will be held on April 15 from 10-6 at Sharon Cahn's address: 1778 Facendini Lane Sebastopol Phone for directions if you need to 707-823-2799. She has become a retail outlet for all kinds of wonderful yarns--Skacel, Austerman, Trendsetter and Muench to name a few and offer a beginning discount. Also check out some of her embellishments--chips, ruffles and ovals from Trendsetter and Scarf Pins from Muench, feathers and of course Angora. sharon@pluckings.com.

  • Rumor: for Mac-based computer pattern makers using PWStudio. There will soon be a "desktop widget" (a black box or something) that will enable the software upgrade of Mac OS to run Windows programs, due to Apple using the Intel chip now. So PWStudio on a Mac is in sight!

  • In November, the Professional Association of Custom clothiers will hold its annual national conference in San Francisco and I've been asked to do a day-long Master Class on Madeleine Vionnet's bias techniques which will include a 3-hour session on draping bias on the half-scale as Vionnet did. See Quick Links for info.

  • More than a rumor. Here is a true "secret source" named Myrna Salzberg. She has been in the business for ages in LA and can supply fusibles for the insides of handbags and shoes (to hold the shapes) and all kinds of cloth reinforcing tapes AND really wide elastic in black and dyeable white for making wide belts. Her email: msalt29@sbcglobal.com. Good prices.

  • Miriam Lewis is costuming Showboat for the Lamplighters at the Napa Valley Opera House. The place is a little treasure of a theater, restored to perfection. April 1 & 2.

  • Rumor: Vivienne Westwood is coming to San Francisco with her retrospective exhibit from the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Dates and times when confirmed.

  • On April 5th I'll be going to see the Spirals & Ellipses show and the Ralph Rucci show at Kent State in Ohio. The Spirals show features contemporary designers who use the Vionnet techniques and I'm interested in seeing if it can travel out here. More on this in the next issue.

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    Clothing and Business Books

    Making and Marketing Better Art Work by Milon Townsend, a glass artist, is an excellent small book for any creative micro business. If you have designed it and made it, he covers everything you need to know -- to the point, clear no-nonsense micro business advice.

    Books on Cloth, a listing of fashion books for sale, by Fred Struthers in Fort Bragg, has been my main source for all the rare books I've been buying for years. In order to beat those competitive New Yorkers, the minute you get the catalog, drop everything, read and phone in what you want. We get it first out here so you have an advantage! To get on his mailing list email him: fsbks@mcn.org

    Money Books

    In case you've been wondering whether you're the only wacky money manager you know -- two books that will go a long way to making all the other aspects of life possible. 1. Money, a Memoir, Women, Emotions and Cash, by Liz Perle. 2. Generation Debt, Why Now is a Terrible Time to be Young, by Anya Kamenetz.
    Ever looked longingly at that fabulous English wool in all those men's suits in the thrift shops -- so close and yet so far away -- ahhh . . the waste. Here's the solution to that problem from Make and Mend for Victory, a pamphlet on patriotic sewing, 1942. On the AP Pattern Page you'll find a layout for cutting a woman's suit from a man's. After taking the men's suit apart, it's OK to handwash and press the men's suit pieces. Men's suiting is almost always worsted wool which means it is spun tight, woven tight and it lasts forever so once you have prepared the pieces you'll have fabric comparable to today's high end menswear. Go to the Patterns page for layout.

    Also, a "new" Vionnet pattern is on the Patterns page.
    They are held in St. Helena at Napa Valley College, Upvalley Center. If you call 707-967-2901, you'll get a live person who can put you on a mailing list for the catalog. If you have an idea for a class or a ready group for one, let me know at the beginning of the previous semester.

    Summer

    Shaping Your Dress Form

    meets on 4 Monday nights in June, starting the 5th, from 6-10 PM at Napa Valley College, St. Helena Campus (UpValley Center). It is Non-Credit (means it's free!) and the registration number is #SEWN-610-52232 Students will take a purchased Uniquely You Dress Form, modify the cover to fit and resculpt the form if necessary to achieve a duplicate of their bodies. It is the first step to creating beautifully fitted garments -- a quality becoming ever more elusive in the marketplace. See more information on the Classes pages of the website.

    Fall

    Following the dress form class, in the fall, there will be a 6 week draping class in which everyone will create a basic sloper using their new dress forms and several complex designs draped directly on their forms. Draping is the method used by most couturiers in design of their collections. The emphasis will be on designs that specifically require the use of the draping technique to create the pattern. This is a beginning level class and will use both 1/2 scale and full scale forms.
    Global Warming:

    It is now something we have to talk about in clothing newsletters because each of us, with or without the government, must do whatever we can to control the burning of fossil fuels. The tragic news now is that the Arctic, Antarctica and Greenland is warming 2-3 times as fast as the average global rate. Everyone reading this will see a devastating effect on life in the oceans in our lifetimes and also serious flooding of coastal areas worldwide, as we have already. Start now in some way to curb your production of CO2, every day. In 2002 we led the world with each of us producing 19.5 tons every year; Great Britain produced 9.15.

    In the July issue of Clothing, there will be a more complete view of how your clothing decisions can be more environmentally responsible. In the meantime, keep in mind that climate change is here to stay and each of us must prepare to change our lifestyles.

    How To Afford Socks When You Are 82 -- They'll Cost 4-6 Times More.

    This section has to be here because chasing fashion contributes to environmental devastation and can put you in debt, not to mention the human costs. Clothing is a personal responsibility requiring conscientious decision making. It is best to base your large expenditures on cost per use to get the best value and also to recycle as much as possible. You will still be adorable -- stop traffic -- look interesting -- slay the guy, whatever the goal is. That part depends on how you use what you buy! It is the thinking part.

    By the time you are 65, you'll need the following amounts saved in order to live the following 20 -30 years, depending on how much you want to withdraw every year to add to other sources or to live on.You don't make very much interest on your money unless it is in an account for a long time which means you must START YOUNG. Go to the AP Perspectives page to see how much you need to save each month and when in order to get there on time.

      For $16,000 to $20,000 each year you need $400,000.
      For $20,000 to $25,000 you need $500,000.
      For $24,000 to $30,000 you need $600,000.
      For $28,000 to $35,000 you need $700,000.
      For $32,000 to $40,000 you need $800,000.
      For $36,000 to $45,000 you need $900,000.
      For $40,000 to $50,000 you need $1 million.
      For $50,000 to $62,500 you need$1.25 million.
    This section explains some of the Quick Links in greater detail. Also, if you are a former student have a related business in the Bay Area, are a subscriber and you let me know, I will put a link up to your site. All former students get an exclamation point!

  • Blue Sky Cleaners in the East Bay picks up and delivers in the area and uses earth-friendly cleaning methods.

  • Nolo Press in Berkeley has all the legal information creative based businesses need to know -- copyrights, patents, hiring, tax stuff -- the works. Sign up for their newsletter.

  • Puccio and Mackay in Ohio, where I took one of my shoemaking classes, is going to offer classes out here. I think it is happening this month in case you're interested.

  • The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York is starting an email newsletter that is quite wonderful -- great photos of the clothes. Go to the Contact page at the link above to sign up.

  • She isn't Keyboard accessible but Lisa Rafn, colorist and knitter extraordinaire, the artist who did all those striped multicolor sweaters (wool or cotton) I live in, is now selling her patterns in addition to sweaters, shawls and also pet sweaters -- on her cat Hugo here. Available by telephone only, 707-963-9371.

    • Check in the Quick Links at the top of the page for links to these places.
    This section is to post jobs and is restricted to subscribers. As a matter of sustainable local life, I encourage everyone to shop local and work local -- cuts the fuel used, makes local identities unique and makes a favor when you need one.

  • Social Butterfly (Meredith Hong!) is looking for a fit model with measurements of approximately 35 1/2 x 27 x 37 and is at least 5' 7" tall would be perfect. This is a project based and or part time job. Contact Meredith at 650-302-3315 or meredith_hong@hotmail.com.

  • Zoe Magee! is looking for interns. Must be energetic and passionate. Located in SOMA, the internship is one day a week for 4 hours helping with various duties. Including but not limited to QCing garments, some basic sewing, filing, inventory, and endless other small tasks. This is a non paid position. However, if you become invaluable this could turn into a part time paid position after a few months. In exchange for your time, you will be allowed to use the space to work on some projects (to be discussed)and get help/advice. This is a great environment to be involved in. Please send info about who you are, why you want to be involved in fashion (i.e. fashion student, personal interest, etc.), when you are available, and your contact information including phone number. This position available now. Would like someone as early as next Monday, April 3rd. Could be done for credit at some schools. Email: zoeacacia@yahoo.com
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    Volume 1, Issue 2, will be published on July 1, 2006. There will be something on making shoes. The goal is to make shoes for which nothing has to die, no toxic materials, readily available components and can be done at home -- I'm almost there -- not just one style either!

    Also coming in July, an in-depth review of earth friendly dressing. Learn to love it! Until then, if you have a great piece of information or a good referral, let me know!

    It has been touch and go to get email lists working so if you receive this by mistake, go to unsubscribe below and the problem will be solved.

    Enjoy spring, love your work and live lightly the earth!
    Sandy Ericson
    Antiquity Press

    phone & fax: 707-967-0852
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