South Florida
is well known for it's bird and photography hot spots in the winter
months. As a native of South
Florida, I spend a large amount of time exploring and
photographing these and other less known areas.
Loop Road,
a twenty six mile drive through the Big
Cypress Swamp,
is one of the lesser known spots. It is an amazing journey through a remote and beautiful
area of the Big Cypress Swamp National Preserve. It is a photographic treasure of
birds, wildlife, cypress swamps and wetlands.
This road remains one of my favorite places; every visit results in new
and creative images.
The
Big Cypress
Swamp lies just north of the
Florida Everglades, which is a unique watery combination of hardwoods and swamps
covering more than half of southern Florida.
The Big Cypress, about half the size, differs from the Everglades in that it has a slightly raised terrain with
standing water covering most of its swamp.
The Everglades, on the other hand, is
famous for its wetlands and con
stantly flowing 'river of grass'. Together, the Big Cypress and the Everglades cover
most of the area between densely populated cities on the east and west coasts
of Florida. Both are well known to be in perilous danger
from chemicals, pollution and population.
Through
the early 1960's, the area around Loop
Road was alive with hunters, residents and
commercial enterprises. The federal
government began buying most of this land to create a buffer between the
endangered Everglades and the encroaching
civilization. During the next ten years
the government purchased over 700,000 acres, and in 1974 the Big Cypress Swamp
National Preserve was created, designed to protect the area. Other than a few remaining residences, most
of land in the National Preserve has succumbed to the swamp. Loop
Road is one of very few roads inside the National Preserve, yet you will encounter
very few travelers along
the way because of the remoteness and condition of the road.
Access
to Loop Road
is along US 41 at two points, both on the south side of the highway. The west access is at Monroe Station, an old
hunting lodge, while the east access is at the 'forty mile bend', just west of the Miccosukee Indian Reservation. From the east access, Loop Road is a paved road for the first
ten miles and then becomes an unimproved, single lane road that passes through
cypress and wetland habitats over the remaining sixteen miles.
For
this article, we'll enter Loop
Road from the east at the fort
y mile bend. This portion generally has more bird and
wildlife activity in the morning. As a
bonus, the light along the middle and west portion of the road remains good
later in the morning because of the canopies of bald cypress and other
trees.
The first two miles pass
through a residential area in the Miccosukee Indian reservation. The Reservation, in the heart of the Everglades, has expanded considerably over recent years, using special care to blend new construction with the wilderness in
order to retain the essence of the swamp. Miccosukees have lived in the Everglades
since the mid 1800's, and the Tribe's current population exceeds 500
members.
Once past the residential
area, you enter the National Preserve and begin to encounter ponds, wetlands
and ecosystems frequented by wading birds and wildlife. You may see herons, ibises, egrets, limpkins,
bitterns, purple gallinules, ducks, anhingas and woodstorks, along with
alligators, otter, deer and turtles. Most of the wading bird activity occurs
along the first ten miles of Loop
Road. The
best months for bird activity are January through March, but some type of
activity occurs year round.
During
the driest part of the year (late winter into spring), many of the ponds
attract a large number of alligators, creating gator holes, and birds move
on to other spots. Beside wading birds,
there are many other species. Look carefully among the trees, rocks and
wetlands and you'll see hawks, osprey, kites, barred owls, woodpeckers and a
wide variety of other birds.
Ten
miles in from US 41, you'll pass a small community of two or three houses along
with the National P
ark Loop Road Environmental Center. This is where the pavement ends and the road
becomes unimproved for the next sixteen miles.
Although rocky, the unimproved portion of the road is generally
accessible by two-wheel-drive vehicles. The wilderness takes over at this
point, and the road travels through some beautiful areas of the Big Cypress.
During the rainy season watch for water flowing over the road, along with
hidden potholes.
Since
the Big Cypress Swamp
is a diverse ecosystem you will encounter a wide va
riety of wildlife. Shortly
after sunrise watch for otter, deer, red fox, and the endangered, elusive Florida panther. Alligators and turtles can be seen in the
canal running along Loop Road
throughout the day, and photographing a gator in the midst of a kill can
produce remarkable images. This might
take an investment of time and patience, though. Otters are a challenge to photograph since they
are constantly on the move and can be shy at times.
A
few hours exploring along Loop
Road creates a wealth of photographic
opportunities in a diverse portion of the Big Cypress Swamp National
Preserve. Enjoy the area, tread lightly,
and "pack it in, pack it out" - don't litter and don't damage anything. Leave the area as it was when you arrived,
and you'll find Loop Road
both a memorable and rewarding Big Cypress experience.