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What a Quincidence!
it's Christmas.
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December 20th 2005
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Greetings!
Is there no end to my fount of trite captions?
Well, you'll have to pardon me, but this year was the
first time that I hit the markets to do my Christmas
shopping and stumbled upon my favourite fruit.
Quinces.
Everywhere!
In the 'Whole Pay Check' markets and the little
ethnic grocery stores.
There they were, crooked little orbs of pleasure.
I did a check in some chat rooms. And what do you
know, they are still around in other countries too!
There was only one thing to do; use them in my
Christmas dinner.
Half of the lost angels of Los Angeles are still
moaning with delight and licking their lips.
Need a way to keep the relatives out of your cooking
sherry over Christmas Lunch?
Then give 'em some quince!
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Do Re Mi Quince
the very beginning
If you've never cooked with quinces before, you are
about to learn that they are the lowest-
maintenance, highest pleasure fruit in the world.
But you have to cook them.
Whenever I see them, I grab the lot, race home and
get 'em in the oven. The house smells incredibly
edible and you'll have the foundation for toast
toppings, meat and cheese spreads and endless no
fuss desserts.
Peel about 6 quinces with your vegetable peeler, cut
them in half, top to bottom (careful, they are hard
and you will need to use a good knife). Slice them in
quarters, then core them, then slice each quarter in
half.
Make a syrup using 5 cups of warm water, 3 cups of
sugar and 1 cup of honey. Add 1 split vanilla bean
and, if you have it, a meyer lemon cut in half.
Pour the syrup and sliced quinces into a baking dish
and put them in a slow oven (300f / 150c).
Come back in 6 hours and open the oven door to
heaven.
Store the quinces in your fridge covered in the syrup.
Ready for vaguely more ambitious fare?
Then you have to consult the Quince Doyennes;
Nigella Lawson, Maggie Beer and Stephanie
Alexander. These women have quince recipes which
could out do the sirens of Homer in luring men to
their ruin. Look up their recipes if you have a chance.
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Rosy the thrice blushing roast of pork
Slow roasted with quinces, rosé and blood orange
Why was Rosy blushing?
Well, if your loins were laid out on a platter for
everyone to admire, you might blush too!
I made a syrup by chopping up a quince, pouring
myself a glass of rosé, pouring the rest of the bottle
over the quince. Added some blood orange zest.
Simmered it
all down to a sticky reduction and then poured it
over a tray full of halved quinces.
Rosy had been luxuriating in a marinade of citrus and
ginger for a few days in my fridge. She was ready for
her close-up. I popped her on a wire rack over the
quinces and put her in a nice, slow oven for 5-6
hours. (note: choose a roast with a bone and some
fat; this adds flavour and tenderness).
The quinces and Rosy got basted frequently in the
ever-darkening syrup and by the time they both
emerged from the oven, the quinces were beyond-
garnet and roasted to fall-apart perfection. Rosy was
likewise!
I let her rest to gather herself together whilst I
popped in a dish of goosey 'taters and made some
buttery peas. Warmed some bread. Popped some
corks. Finally, I sprinkled Rosy with some blood
orange zest, to chase the sweetness of the quinces.
And you thought Christmas dinner was hard work!
click on the pic for the recipe
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Goosey 'taters
Man cannot live on quince alone!
Goose fat. Read about it's magical properties in
Nigella Lawson's 'Feast'.
Tried it.
Loved it.
Never tried it? Let this be your Christmas miracle.
Give the roast spuds an extreme makeover this year.
click on the pic for the recipe
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Buttery peas and sprouts
With meyer lemon zest and fresh oregano
Life is short and, frequently, short on pleasure.
One of the few has to be fresh peas. If you can get
some, please do.
Shelling peas has to be the most pleasurably mindless
task of putting on a Christmas lunch. They burst
forth like giddy kids off a roundabout.
Try serving steaming sprouts and peas
with lashings of butter, some lemon zest and oregano.
click on the pic for the recipe
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Angels we have heard on iTunes
The way we live now
This week, Emmylou Harris played the new Disney
Music Hall in LA.
She showed the city of angels what being an angel is
all about.
It was a Christmas show, but that didn't stop her
singing some of her sad songs:
'There's depressed folk at this time of the year too'
Being sad has never been so delightful.
Anyway, her Christmas album is not sad at all, it is
just unforgivably pretty.
Click on the pic to see some of the Christmas cheer
that spurred me on my cook-a-long.
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Gotta gobble?
It has to be turkey?
If it just isn't Christmas without a turkey, then you
can still shake it up a little.
(and no quinces)
For Thanksgiving, I stuffed my turkey with black
truffles, porcini mushrooms, pancetta, truffled
cheese and ciabatta. loads of pepper and a little salt
and olive oil.
Interested in some more specifics? click on the pic to
e-mail me.
Don't want to go high-end with the bird? How about
taking it to the trailer park? Stuffed turkey meatloaf!
Make a meatloaf with turkey, and when you are
forming it, lay a core of herb stuffing. bake it as
usual and serve with tater tots and green bean
casserole!
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Spiced pumpkin and drunk gingerbread profiteroles
'mum, there's a drag queen on the table!'
' no honey, that's just dessert!'
If you want to induce a collective jaw-drop, bring
out this confection.
I made a choux ring and a batch of profiteroles, filled
them with a spiced pumpkin custard, grand-marnier
drenched gingerbread and whipped cream. Poured
hot toffee straight from the skillet onto the puffs and
threw a handful of fresh cranberries and clementines
onto the plate.
We wound up serving the entire meal back to front.
Everyone went straight for the dessert. Profiteroles
and a gorgeous, aussie sparkling shiraz to start the
meal!
click on the pic for the recipe.
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Fried panettone with quince, blood orange and marscapone
A little breakfast for two amidst the pine needles
Remember that lonely quince that we chucked in with
the rosé when we made the syrup for Rosy?
Well, I made the syrup a day ahead and saved the
quince.
So, come Christmas morning, there was the
ubiquitous panettone and some cold quince lying
around the house. I sliced the panettone around,
instead of in wedges and, lo-and-behold, it was
skillet sized!
Some melting butter, some pan crisp panettone,
some poached quince and blood orange
segments. The crowning glory? A dollop of
marscapone or creme fraiche.
Could it get any better?
How about a quince champagne cocktail?
The only thing left to do is unwrap!
The presents or yourselves; take your pick!
Someone needs to tell Santa that it's much nicer to
be naughty!
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Hemingway, the thirsty Christmas cake
Hemingway?
What can I say? This fella knocked off half a bottle
of my best brandy and he's way too dense to get
through in one sitting.
What's that? You don't like nuts in your fruit cake?
Fine, then it's a farewell to almonds!
This is a fruit cake even fruit-cake-haters seem to
love.
(Or maybe my friends are all drunks!)
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Misty Water Coloured Moments
I was talking with a mate about the Christmas hoopla
and he was asking my advice about what to get his
girlfriend for Christmas.
Money's tight (when isn't it?) and gifts that resonate
are a rare commodity.
'If you can't give a gift, then give a moment'
(such sage advice from someone who shoves truffles
up turkey bottoms)
But seriously, my Christmas memories are all about
the irreplaceable moments that I've shared with the
people I love.
So whether it's lighting a whole bag of tea-light
candles, filling the house with (stolen) boughs from
the neighbour's citrus trees, or just a handwritten
note recalling your favourite shared times, there are
so many ways to create a moment that someone will
cherish for years to come
Whatever you celebrate, even if it's just good food,
then I hope that you are all happy and safe.
And let the love flow!
cheers, Mannix
mannix@thelovebite.com
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