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Muhummara-mia!
here I go again.
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July 18th 2006
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Greetings!
It doesn't take much to spin my mind into the Abba
zone.
It's the way I'm wired.
But walking out of a restaurant in Little Armenia
humming 'Mama Mia' was a little odd, even for me.
What prompted it?
The devil-red dollop of muhummara on the side of my
plate, that's what!
Muhummara.
A whirling dervish of red peppers, pomegranate
molasses and walnuts. Garlicky and peppery and
finger-licking gorgeous.
Trust me; this little dip will hang around your
taste buds like four Swedes in white pantsuits on a
turntable in 1976!
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Mannix's makes his muhummara blush
I discovered Muhummara at a little restaurant called
Carousel down on Sunset Boulevard. It's a funny
place...looks more like a hair salon from the 80's
which has never been tarted up; menthol green and
pink decor, a few Nagel prints peeling from the wall.
In fact, this dip is the brightest colour in the
restaurant!
And that is what intrigued me. Some research
revealed that the ingredients for this devilish fare
consisted of walnuts, pomegranate molasses, red
peppers, stale pita and some spices.
I tried it at home...it tasted great, but the colour
was so dull compared to Carousel's.
I added more Paprika, less pita bread, more
molasses...still dull!
Then I remembered that they serve their pita bread
spread with tomato paste, and it is bound to be
these leftovers that they are using to make their dip!
Bingo; I added some tomato paste to my dip and it
started blushing so furiously you'd think I'd been
whispering rather sordid, lurid things to it!
This is fast and simple; a few laps around the food
processor and you're done:
The goods: 1/2 cup chopped walnuts; 1 small pita
bread / 1/2 lrg pita (stale); 4-5 cloves garlic; 4
tblspns pomegranate molasses; 2 tblspns tomato
paste; 1 tblspn sweet paprika; 1 tblspn hot paprika;
1 tspn cayenne (optional); 1 tspn cumin powder; 4
roasted / marinated red peppers/capsicums; juice 1
lemon; 1 tspn kosher salt; 1/3 cup olive oil
Place torn pita and walnuts into food processor and
pulse until both are coarse crumbs. Add the garlic
cloves and pulse garlic into crumbs. Add all the other
ingredients and pulse into a paste. You can add
another clove of garlic if you are brave. You can
roast and peel your own peppers /
capsicums if you like, but life is much easier if you
buy them already done,
just drain them well and chop them roughly before
adding them to the
processor(2 jars is about equal to 4 capsicums). Use
a good, grassy olive
oil...the flavour really embellishes the dip.
You're good to go; pick up a felafel, tear into some
fresh pita, daub your kebob...
Better yet; serve this with hot, grilled vegetables.
Char-grilled zucchini sticks and a bowl of muhummara
(and a bottle of Estola from Trader Joe's: $4.99 a
bottle!)
Why not serve with a little hummus as well; these
two dips harmonize together like Anna and Frida (in
case you're wondering, muhummara is Frida...the
spicy red-head, hummus is the seen-it-before blonde)
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Ali Baa Baa
Roast Lamb marinated in Muhammara
I have made endless batches of Muhammara over the
past few weeks.
Luckily, it lends itself to endless uses.
My favourite, by far, is to get a good boneless leg of
lamb. Rub salt into the skin of the lamb,
then 'massage' about a cup of muhammara into the
outside and inside of the lamb, roll it back into shape
and pop it into the fridge overnight.
Remove it from the fridge an hour before cooking.
Pre-heat the oven to 425f.
Peel 2 onions and slice them into 1 inch rounds. Place
the onion rounds on the bottom of a baking pan and
put the lamb on top. Drizzle with olive oil and pop it
into the oven. Bake 20 minutes for every pound. Bake
uncovered for the first 20 minutes. Baste with a little
oil, then cover with foil and pop it back into the
oven. Remove the foil and baste for the last 10
minutes of cooking. Remove from pan and cover with
foil, let the roast sit for at least 15 minutes.
15 minutes?
That's all you need to put together a sensational
little platter...
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Haricots Saffron
That sounds like a guest presenter on Antiques
Roadshow, huh?
Actually, this is a 2 minute no-brainer.
Trim some green beans, place them in a dish with a
sprinkle of water and cook them in the microwave for
2-3 minutes.
Meanwhile, drain a little of the meat juices and fat
from the roasting pan and add a pinch of saffron
threads.
Sprinkle the beans with salt and pepper, pour over
the
saffron juices and you've got a foxy little side-dish
ready to go!
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Fried olives with orange and fennel salad
Clearly I'm besotted with fried olives...they were in
the last newsletter too!
Heat 1/4 cup olive oil and 3-4 sprigs of fresh
rosemary in a skillet. As the oil heats, it will tease
and cajole the flavour out of the rosemary leaves.
Now add about 1 cup of olives: green or black, or all
mixed up. I rather like using oil cured olives (and I pit
them first).
The heat should be fairly low. The rosemary oil will
sneak into the olives.
Add a few strips of orange and / or lemon zest.
Keep the pan on low whilst you slice all of the skin
and pith off 2-3 oranges. Slice the oranges into
rounds, then grab a fennel bulb. Slice it super thinly
and scatter the fennel ribs over the orange slices.
Top it all off with a mountain on hot olives.
(and, if you dare, add a few dollops of creme fraiche
and chili flakes; you will be in heaven!)
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1-2-3 onion tart
finally, a tart with her top on!
Remember those onions lurking in the bottom of the
roasting pan? The ones that soaked up all of the lamb
juices and muhummara?
Well, they are about to turn into the easiest tart
you've ever knocked up!
Grab a ball of store-bought pizza dough (easily my
favourite new convenience of the new millennium!). I
buy whole wheat ones from Trader Joe's.
Pull it out of the fridge about 30 minutes before so
that it warms up. Roll or pull it out into an oblong-ish
shape and place it on a baking sheet.
Spread a good 1/2 cup of muhummara around the
centre of the dough, the way you'd spread tomato
sauce on a regular pizza. Drizzle a little olive oil over
it all and place the baking sheet in the oven on the
rack under the lamb (about 15 minutes before the
lamb is ready).
When the roast lamb comes out of the oven and you
transfer the meat to a plate, scoop up all of those
onions and pile them onto the pizza. Take a
little mixed lamb fat / pan juices and pour them on
top of the onions. Bake another 5-10 minutes until
the crust is golden brown. Slice into
wedges and serve with the roast.
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Fernando, the Muhummara Marinated Roast Chook
If you don't like Ali Baa Baa, try this meal with Fernando instead
Wash and pat dry a 4-5 pound chicken. Quarter a
lemon and pop it into the cavity. Squeeze half a
lemon over the chicken and then rub a fistful of
salt into the skin. Take 3 heaped tablespoons of
muhammara and smother it all over the outside of the
chicken. Pop the chook in the fridge overnight.
Bring it out 30 minutes before you plan to cook it.
Pre-heat the oven to 425f. Take a couple of onions,
peel them and slice them into 2cm rounds, place
the onions on the bottom of a baking pan to create a
platform for the chicken. Place the chook on top of
the onions and cover it in a good drizzle of olive oil.
Cover with foil and place it in the oven. Bake for
45 minutes, take the chook out and baste it, but
keep it covered with foil. Bake another 20 minutes,
baste and remove foil, bake another 25 minutes.
To test for 'doneness', wiggle the leg...it should move
freely. Transfer to a white plate, prick with a fork in
the thickest part of the thigh and let the juices run.
They should be clear. The muhammara paste might
add some redness to the juices.
You can serve this with all the same sides and
flourishes as described above for the roast lamb!
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Muh'maaa-mia
a tale of two reds
So, we have a saucy little red...who is actually a dip,
or a marinade, or a sauce. And I have another red to
introduce to you. A cheeky little Spaniard known as
Vina Santurnia (Rioja), 2001. Picked this one up for
under $10
Of course, after a happy helping of the former, and
an unhealthy helping of the latter the pronunciation
of either becomes challenging.
Syllables collapse and contract; muhummara becomes
muh'maa, rioja becomes ria.
muh'maa ria.
mama mia...
hmmm... I could tell you stories of Abba and my
family. Like the time my sister bribed me (I was 6) to
say that I liked Anna more than Frida. Then, in
disgust, she snarled at me; 'Well, you know that Frida
has false teeth!'
To this day, when I see an Abba video, I zero in on
Frida's teeth.
Humour me. This playlist is a sentimental tour de
folly. It has absolutely no relevance to the subject of
this newsletter other than a quaint phonetic similarity.
(put on your pantsuit and enjoy!)
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What Mannix did next
I am jumping on a plane in three days and flying over
to Australia to do some work with Leggo's promoting
their tomato paste.
For those of you who didn't know, tomatoes (in all
their glorious forms) are known as pomme
d'amour...the apple of love!
Who could deny that!
I'm so excited by this trip...
Working with a brand that I grew up with, sharing
recipes and being back home for a bit of wint'ry relief!
More news on where you might be seeing me in the
next few days.
Till then, eat some dip, listen to some Swedes and be
happy...
And let the love flow!
cheers, Mannix
mannix@thelovebite.com
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