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kumquat may
size doesn't matter
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april 8th 2005
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Greetings!
kumquats
who would've thought it?
such big flavour from such wee fellas
such a welcome change from orange, lemon and grapefruit
see what you think...
...and while you're at it (if you're in the US) tune in for my tv
debut later this week
enjoy!
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kumquat and prosciutto wrapped duck breasts
the perfect summer sandwich filler
contrary to popular opinion, I happen to believe that
everything goes better with bread...fresh, doughy, crusty
loaves...sliced thick, buttered and filled with a medley of
ragamuffins from the refrigerator; those pot luck combos
always seem to be sensational!
I was messing around with the kumquats and made a
relish, of sorts by mixing 10 oz/ 300g of kumquats
(sliced and seeded) with 2 tblspns brown sugar; 1 tblspn
white wine vinegar; pinch salt; 1 tspn marash peppers
(or chili flakes); 1/4 cup water. heat over a medium flame
until it all reduces to a gorgeous, orange mush (well, the
skins stay intact, but the pulp dissolves to jam). this
takes about 15 mins
lay out 10 sheets of prosciutto on a sheet of baking
parchment, carefully overlapping, to create a 'wrap'.
spread the kumquat relish over the top third of the
prosciutto. place 2 duck breasts (skins removed)end to end
on top of the relish and then carefully roll the parchment
over. you want the prosciutto to wrap around the breasts in a
roll. secure this with some cooking twine. transfer it to a
baking dish, douse it in some olive oil and bake the whole
thing, uncovered at 400f for 30-35mins. remove it, cover it
with foil and let it cool
you can serve it with a yummy hot potato salad or with
green beans and mint and blood orange segments all tossed
in good olive oil
or you can make the sandwich that I concocted:
spread: creme fraiche or cream cheese on thick slices of
fresh bread, top with watercress and alternating slices of
blood orange and duck breast
you could also add some basil or cilantro/ coriander
leaves with the kumquat relish...or use 2-3 chicken fillets
the cheat's version: by some sliced roast chicken and
prosciutto from the deli, some 'bonne maman'
marmalade and creme fraiche, a blood orange, some
water cress or spinach and some crusty bread...
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italian crumbly cake with caramelised kumquats
and a mountain of creme fraiche
I was chastised recently for comparing nigella lawson to
marcella hazan and declaring that nigella was decidedly
'foxier'
'mr hazan might disagree with you' was the retort
fair point. anyway, marcella delivers recipes which are so
simple that you think, 'it can't possibly be interesting', then
you taste the finished goods and realise just how sexy
simplicity
can be
well, I adapted marcella's 'torta sbricciolina' for this citrus
emsemble...simple, grown up, perfect with black coffee in
the wee hours:
mix: 5oz/150g flour; 3oz/90g corn meal; 5oz/150g almond
meal; 4oz/ 115g sugar; 1 tblspn finely chopped glace /
candied orange peel and the zest of 1 lemon
rub: in 2 egg yolks until you have rough 'breadcrumbs', then
rub in 4oz/115g salted butter. the mix will come together to
resemble a crumble topping; it will hold its form when
squeezed
crumble: the cake mix over the base of a buttered 9 inch
springform cake pan and bake in a pre-heated (375f / 190c)
oven for 40 mins. remove from the oven, sprinkle 1 tblspn
icing/ confectioner's sugar over the top. slice into wedges
whilst still warm and in the pan
whip: 1 cup whipping cream with 1 tblspn sugar. when cream
starts to thicken, add 1 cup creme fraiche and continue to
whip until the cream is fluffy, but still a little loose
slice: 1 cup kumquats diagonally (trust me; this makes it
easier to remove the seeds...hold them up to the light to
make sure that you have removed them all); place kumquat
halves cut-side down into a dish of castor /superfine sugar
heat: a non-stick skillet and, when hot, place the kumquats
cut-side down onto the surface. they will caramelise in a
minute. watch the sugar bubble. you want them to brown
slightly
pile: the whipped creme fraiche in the centre of the crumbly
cake
scatter: the warm, caramelised kumquats onto the mountain
of creme
serve: with bloody good coffee and pithy conversation
*this topping would also be sensational on top of my flourless
orange torte...click the pic for a link to the recipe
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kumquat and creme fraiche ice cream
with a cointreau chaser
tragedy struck this week
it arrived on my doorstep with a knock on the door (clearly
tragedy has my address...)
'who's there?', I inquired
silence
another knock. another 'who's there'. more silence
third time around, my curiousity had piqued enough to
get my nose out of the refrigerator. I half suspected that
it was a new tactic being employed by the jehovah's
witnesses; 'silent salvation'
it was seamus lopez, the mercurial, bag-piping, mariachi
loving lounge singer
he was meant to be on his way to dusseldorf with his
new one man revue; shamrock salsa
instead, he was looking forlorn and wearing a 'dr who' scarf
turns out that he had been struck down with tonsilitis. a cruel
blow. he could neither sing nor play his pipes
poor bugger...
luckily, I had just made a batch of kumquat ice cream. a hit
of vitamin c, cool and creamy...all that and a syrupy smother
of contreau brown sugar sauce
he was back in business in no time...in fact, he stayed to
pose for the pics in this newsletter
the ice cream: slice 1 cup of kumquats in half diagonally and
remove seeds. whack them in the microwave for 2 mins.
beat 1 cup creme fraiche; 1 cup cream; 3/4 cup superfine/
castor sugar and 2 eggs yolks. then heat this mix over a low
heat until it thickens and starts to simmer. take it off the
heat to cool. puree the kumquats in a blender and then stir
them through the egg & cream mix. pour this into an ice
cream maker and churn according to manufacturer's
instructions
a foxy little sauce: stir 3 tblspns cointreau through 2 tblspns
brown sugar. pour this over the ice cream. on second
thoughts, leave the ice cream alone and just kick back with a
glass of cointreau...
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thelovebite tv debut
see mannix and his mangoes in action!
recently, I was approached to appear on a tv show to discuss
quick, easy, healthy summer dishes...
as soon as I was asked, I thought of the mango recipes which
appeared in my first newsletter
they loved the idea, and that is how I found myself on the set
of 'ready for the weekend', the show that runs through USA
channel's movie of the week
it was an absolute hoot. the hosts, dan and christine, were
very gentle with me...and apart from a minor disaster with
the mango ice cream (someone stored it in the fridge instead
of the freezer), everything went very well
so, please tune in this thursday...the movie is 'sabrina'...and
somewhere in the middle of it, I will be waxing lyrical about
carmelised mangoes and sexy scallops. the movie starts at
9pm, so open a bottle of something lovely and settle in
this shoot was all very last minute and I had totally forgotten
that I was meant to be meeting my friend, lisa, for dinner
she was in town from melbourne for the night and we were
due to meet at 7pm in beverly hills
for the uninitiated, getting from santa monica to beverly hills
during peak hour traffic is a feat to rival rising from the
dead. there was no chance of going home and freshening up
first. I got there permissably late, threw the keys to the
thunderbird (aka the mannixmobile) to the valet and rushed
downstairs to meet lisa
her greeting:' mannix, are you wearing makeup?'
I told lisa about my day, we laughed a bit, popped the cork
on some champagne and settled in for the night
a glass or so into the champagne, who should sit down at the
next table but fabio...I kept thinking, 'he would be the perfect
model for one of my newsletters! I have to ask him'
then I would remember that I was sitting there sporting a
face full of pancake and lose my nerve
but who needs fabio when I have the devilish seamus lopez
to pose for me?
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