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fake a fling in the big blue
and escape the endless winter
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march 7th 2005
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Greetings!
if you're reading this in the northern hemisphere then
take a look outside; rain, snow, grey clouds...it's
time to
turn on the sun
sneak down to the tanning salon and bake yourself
to a crisp
put on your snow boots and strike up the bbq
rent 'the big blue'
uncork the chianti
and settle in for a seafood platter that tastes like a
smorgasbord of sunshine!
(then you can have some fun times searching for
each
other's tan lines!)
...and for those readers basking in southern
hemisphere,
don't get too smug, your chilly days are just around
the
corner, so use this menu as a last hurrah before you
haul out the winter woollies!
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boquerones and arugula bruschetta
flirt with the pescador for these little beauties
boquerones are tender, juicy white anchovy fillets.
so far removed from the whiskery old things you're
used to fishing off the pizza
I snuck off to sydney for a week or so...there had
been one too many mudslides in my neck of the
woods...so I decided to skip home to the dry side of
the pacific: hopped on a plane, downed a sleeping
tablet with a shot of duty free vodka and woke up in
my motherland. cleared customs. caught a cab.
knocked on the door of my old pal, brooke. we were
off!
hadn't been in the country for two hours before she
had whisked me off to her favourite chinese
restaurant and - I kid you not- it was called cum
fook. anyway, there was no moving brooke until the
shu mai came around...isn't it always the way with
dim sum?...so we had quite a session. the lazy susan
needed a re-tread by the time that we left
my point (and I'm clearly in no rush to get there) is
that if anyone is going to have a salty little devil
lurking in her fridge, it will be brooke...and sure
enough, she had a little dish of boquerones
for a salty little start to the meal, toast some
rounds of ciabatta, top with a leaf of arugula, a
boquerones fillet, a slice of good parmesan and finish
it all off with a sprinkle of chopped parsley, a
squeeze of lemon juice and a drizzle of olive oil
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baby calamari stuffed with cannellini beans and preserved lemon
and topped with a spicy little harissa
these babies are so easy. and they make you look
awfully clever. you buy the baby calamari, mix the
stuffing. use the leftover stuffing as a salad, grill the
calamari for 3-4 minutes and you're done. grill the
scallops at the same time and you're a hero!
here's what you do:
the calamari: buy around 3 tubes per person, run
your finger around the inside to make sure that all of
the cartilage has been removed...rinse them out and
pat them dry
the stuffing: mix 1 tin of cannellini beans (rinsed and
drained) with 1/2 cup parsley (chopped) and the rind
from a 1/4 preserved lemon (finely diced)...12 grinds
of the pepper mill, a splash of olive oil and you're
done. now, use a teaspoon and fill each calamari
tube (you'll only get a couple of spoons in each
tube). douse the stuffed calamari in a little more oil
and keep in the fridge until you're ready to cook
them (this can be done hours ahead)
the salad: mix the leftover stuffing mix with some
finely sliced fennel (anise)...about 1/2 a bulb...or the
lot if you don't want leftovers...a dash more olive oil
before you serve it all (maybe some fresh oregano
leaves and lemon juice)...and that's it!
grilling: make sure that the calamari are lightly
coated in olive oil so they don't stick to the grill. get
the bbq good and hot, place the tubes on the grill.
cook 2 minutes, turn, cook another 2 minutes. done!
oh! wait...harissa. okay, lets make this easy. soak
about 1/3 cup chili flakes (seeds and all) in 2
tablespoons of warm water. set aside. measure 1
tspn of each: coriander seeds, fennel (or caraway)
seeds, ground cumin, sea salt, black pepper. mix
these in a grinder or blender. add the chili flakes and
2 tablespoons of chopped mint. pulse the blender
then add the juice of 1/2 a lemon and 1/3 cup olive
oil and pulse again. done!
before you taste this, beware: it's bloody hot!
harissa is an african chili sauce. the faint of heart
can calm it down by adding a 1/3 cup tomato
paste...or serve it alongside some tzatziki
drizzle a little harissa over the calamari when you
serve it
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pancetta wrapped scallops
skewered on rosemary twigs
these are the perfect partner for the calamari as
they cook as quickly and they both look so cosy
on a platter together
here's the skinny:
try and get yourself some pepper crusted
pancetta...just for the spice factor. no sweat if you
can't; prosciutto or bacon will do
I buy frozen scallops (the biggest that I can find)
couple of reasons
first: I lay them out on a plate lined with paper towel
(not touching) so that they thaw in nice round
shapes. once they lose their shape, or split, they
just don't look as good
second: they are easier to handle if they are still a
little frozen
so: uncoil your pancetta, cut a strip about 10
inches / 25 cm...wrap it around a scallop (double
over any excess pancetta) and then grab a twig of
rosemary which has had the leaves stripped off it (or
use a skewer if you've no imagination)...pierce the
twig through the pancetta and semi-frozen scallop.
repeat until you have 3-4 scallops on a twig
place the scallops kebabs on some paper towel and
set them in the fridge to finish thawing until you are
ready to grill them
douse them in a little olive oil, toss them on a hot
grill. 2 minutes a side...a little more if you want the
pancetta super crispy...and serve them with some
paprika sprinkled over (thank you, bobi) or some
maresh pepper flakes or (let's make it easy) more
harissa!
and while you're at it, shave some parmesan on
top...heck, put some on the salad as well!
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olives and co.
and a wee confession...
I'm typing this from a hotel business lounge as I am
on secret assignment in jacksonville, florida
at the restaurant that I went to last night (I
checked in late and ventured no further than the
hotel...serves me right) I was served by a waitress
sporting a mullet
I was fed a charmless plate of cauterised shrimp
I went up to my room and hopped in bed with
my 'thursday next' novel (hence all that 'secret
assigment' nonsense!)
I dreamed of anti pasti
plump, juicy, tender olives
rolled in chili and garlic
crunchy pickled cauliflower and sweet peppers
alas, I woke up still tasting rubbery prawns
why drag something...anything...out of the ocean
only to flame it to death, douse it in yellow gravy
and foist it on unsuspecting foreigners?
in short: don't forget to pick up some good olives
if I'd packed some, I wouldn't be so bitter right now!
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it's got to be chianti!
no silent lamb jokes...it's all about ambience
okay so a rafia covered chianti bottle is as daggy an
umberto tozzi album
but it's all about mood
besides, it the harissa is hot enough, you won't know
if the wine's lousy!
my other favourite italian (under $10)?
amano's primativo. some smart yank went over to
italy and planted zinfandel grapes
best of both worlds if you ask me!
*any americans dying to know what 'daggy' means,
you'd best e-mail me...the definition wouldn't look
too good in a food newsletter!
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a chianti choral work
well, sort of...
no playlist, sorry!
blame the hotel...I can't get onto iTunes from here
so do this:
rent 'the big blue'
buy the soundtrack
watch the movie whilst you eat
then play the soundtrack in the bedroom whilst you
take turns to see who can hold their breath longest!
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