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Social Accountability International (SAI) is a non-profit,
multi-stakeholder organization established to advance the human rights
of workers and the health of enterprises by promoting decent work
conditions, labor rights, and corporate social responsibility through
voluntary standards.
For newsletter inquiries contact: Joleen Ong, jong@sa-intl.org |
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Fire Safety in Bangladesh: Update on ITGLWF-SAI Project ITGLWF & SAI convene 2-day multi-stakeholder conference in Dhaka on disaster prevention and fire safety in the Bangladesh garment industry
In the center, Judy Gearhart (SAI) & Steve Grinter (ITGLWF) stand between Abdus Salam Murshedy, BGMEA President (left of Ms. Gearhart) and A. Kamrul Anam, BNC President (right of Mr. Grinter) and a group of representatives from Gap Inc., H&M, Disney, Inditex, Next, Lindex, and Jones Apparel.
 | As we post this article, the New York Times and other news agencies are reporting yet another tragic fire last night took at least 25 workers' lives in Bangladesh and injured dozens more. Fire fighters continued searching for survivors from the factory located in the Ashulia industrial zone near Dhaka. [ Click here to read a joint statement released by the Clean Clothes Campaign, International Labor Rights Forum, the Worker Rights Consortium, and the Maquila Solidarity Network] In an effort to prevent further tragedies in the Bangladesh apparel industry - where another fire in February claimed 21 workers' lives - SAI and the International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers Federation (ITGLWF) are cooperating to raise awareness and promote prevention measures. Two recent meetings kicked off this project, which is financed by a coalition of global brands and development cooperation through the MFA Forum. On December 5 and 6, SAI, the ITGLWF and a coalition of its local affiliates - the Bangladesh National Council (BNC) - convened a multi-stakeholder dialogue on fire safety. More than 90 individuals - representing government, factory managers, NGOs, trade unions and a dozen global brands - took part in animated discussions. The group talked in-depth about fire safety hazards in the Bangladesh apparel sector. Factory managers and brand compliance officers spoke frankly about the challenges they face to improve infrastructure throughout the industry. Several international brands-including Disney, Gap Inc., Jones Apparel, H&M and Next - flew in staff to participate in the event. Their presence gave added encouragement to the dialogue and problem solving efforts. H&M presented on research it has conducted recently, which identifies some of the challenges and recommended solutions. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers Association (BGMEA) presented on various training and monitoring programs they offer throughout the industry. At the end of the meeting, BGMEA President, Abdus Salam Murshedy, agreed to co-convene with the BNC a high level dialogue on the subject in early 2011. The multi-stakeholder meeting was the kickoff for a three-month pilot program in Bangladesh. In addition to the multi-stakeholder meeting, the ITGLWF will pilot training for workers on fire safety monitoring and SAI will deliver a multi-part training for managers from 20 factories. On December 7, Judy Gearhart, SAI's Program Director, kicked off SAI's portion of the training with a half day briefing session on SAI's Social Fingerprint™ program to improve social compliance management systems. More than 30 senior factory managers and brand compliance staff participated. SAI's training begins with a self-assessment process, which will be followed up by SAI's review of the assessment and a two-day training in Bangladesh in late January 2011. Along with their suppliers, brand representatives from Gap Inc, Wal Mart, H&M, Jones Apparel, and Inditex participated in the training in order to better monitor factory improvements. Participating factories also included suppliers to Levi's and Disney. For more information or an opportunity to join the program, please contact Jane Hwang at jhwang@sa-intl.org. |
SAI is pleased to announce its selection as one of the grantees in the new project- " Responsible and Accountable Garment Sector (RAGS): Improving Social Standards in the Indian Ready Made Garment Sector," an initiative supported by DFID aimed at improving conditions of home workers, a predominately female sector, and gender and caste discrimination. SAI's work at the factory level will complement that of other grantees including the UK-based Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) and its grassroots partner the Indian National Homeworker Group (NHG), Monsoon, the ITGLWF, Tesco Stores Ltd., and Impactt Ltd. The 28-month project will have links with SAI's joint development partnership (PPP) in India with the BSCI and GTZ, and include the participation of global retailers Gap Inc. and Timberland, who will engage a select group of their suppliers based in India. The project, launched at a November meeting in London, addresses the big concern that, while garment export has fueled economic growth in scores of developing countries and created over 25 million jobs worldwide, maintaining decent working conditions remain a critical issue, with gender discrimination, excessive working hours, and safety violations commonplace.
RAGS' goals to improve workers' lives will be addressed through four measures: - Develop training tools and standards- The project will leverage multi-stakeholder partnerships with producers, brands, NGOs, and unions to incorporate their feedback. Over 100 India factories will test the training tools that focus on home workers, discrimination issues, and management systems designed to assure decent work.
- Build local training capacity- utilizing a 'training-of-trainer' strategy, SAI will train and qualify 30 local trainers qualified through the PPP to deliver RAGS project training courses, contributing to the project's sustainability after the program has ended.
- Increase worker and manager skills and awareness of rights- Continuing with the project's qualification program, trainers will work with 100 factories to improve avenues of communication to lessen discrimination in the workplace and encourage/enable responsible subcontracting to homeworkers.
- Strengthen local audit capacity- SAI will deliver auditor guidance on home worker and discrimination issues, using both existing guidelines and new ones addressing issues that are specific to the local context.
Click here to download Project Summary: RAGS- Improving Social Standards in the Indian Ready-Made Garment Sector [PDF, 90KB]
To learn more about SAI's work in India, click here To learn more about DFID's RAGS project, click hereFor more information, contact SAI Communications & Development Coordinator, Joleen Ong- JOng@sa-intl.org
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SAI & Eileen Fisher Coordinate Workshop with Suppliers in China
"Improving Your Company's Business & Social Fingerprint™"
During a group exercise, participants sketch their life journey to their current work, and their personal connection to the environment.
 | On November 11-12, 2010, SAI Lead Trainer Mike Lee worked in collaboration with apparel company, Eileen Fisher, to lead a training workshop, "Improving Your Company's Business & Social Fingerprint™" in Shenzhen, China. 37 participants, representing all seven of Eileen Fisher's supplier factories in China, as well as several of Eileen Fisher's Hong Kong sourcing agents, engaged in this workshop. Day one focused on human rights, and the second day focused on the environment. As Eileen Fisher is a Signatory SAI Corporate Program member; SAI tailored the workshop curriculum for the first day to both give a thorough introduction to social compliance, as well as build on suppliers' experiences through group exercises.
Eileen Fisher's business culture was infused in the training: the meeting started off with a moment of silence to proceed with a fresh mind; core messages of Eileen Fisher business practices and culture--such as brand reshaping and support of women and girls-- were presented by Eileen Fisher's Director of Corporate Social Consciousness, Amy Hall, and Vice President of Manufacturing Susan Young. Ms. Hall and Ms. Lee also led several group exercises, including an overview on the importance of communication, citing relevant examples such as the recent events at the Foxconn and Honda factories in China.
Feedback indicated that the training fulfilled participants' expectations. Amy Hall noted, "Suppliers responded well to the blend of classroom lecture and western-style group activities. We enjoyed seeing them relax and participate in a variety of interactive and creative projects."
An ongoing trend that all seven factories are experiencing is the shortage of workers to fill positions. Ms. Lee noted a palpable sense of concern from all seven suppliers about this rising labor shortage, with them noting they have increased wages by 20-30% in order to maintain competitiveness and retain key staff. Worker demands and benefits are taken into consideration, such as living stipends and/or free dormitory space. The suppliers indicated that after Chinese New Year, another wage increase will be instituted.
This labor shortage problem is especially prevalent in the Pearl River and Yangtze River Delta region of China, major export production areas. According to a recent survey by the Guangdong Province human resources department, there is a shortage of over 900,000 workers.
Click here to learn more about Eileen Fisher's relationship with its vendors, an interview with Ms. Hall from the November 2010 newsletter
For more information, please contact SAI Communications & Development Coordinator, Joleen Ong- JOng@sa-intl.org. |
SAI, SAAS & Fair Trade USA Collaborate on Training to Support New Fair Trade Apparel Initiative Auditor Training Workshop Seeks to Help Streamline SA8000 and Fair Trade Certification
Bottom, second from left: Badri Gulur, SAAS Senior Lead Auditor, and Meghan Quinlan, Fair Trade USA Director of Certification Programs, stands with workshop participants after a full-day of training in Mumbai for SAAS-accredited certification bodies.  | On December 2, 2010 in Mumbai, India, SAAS Senior Lead Auditor Badri Gulur led a customized auditor training workshop on the SA8000™ standard and Fair Trade USA Obligations of Cut-Make-Trim Facilities. This training was the next step of SAAS and Fair Trade USA's (formerly TransFair USA) pilot project to develop a joint audit program to enable garment producers to achieve SA8000™ and Fair Trade certifications through a streamlined audit program. The workshop was attended by eleven participants representing six SAAS-accredited certification bodies- TUV SUD, ALGI, TUV Nord, Bureau Veritas, BSI, and RINA. Meghan Quinlan, Fair Trade USA Director of Certification Programs, presented the Fair Trade Apparel program to participants. SAI and Fair Trade USA designed the workshop to prepare auditors to conduct joint SA8000™-Fair Trade audits of garment facilities, presenting the intersections of the elements of each standard and its certification requirements. The workshop was divided into four sessions: 1) SA8000™ and Fair Trade elements and complementarities; 2) Auditor Competencies for SA8000™ and Fair Trade standards; 3) The Audit Process; and 4) Oversight Systems. Joint SA8000™-Fair Trade audits aim to avoid audit redundancy, increase market access for certified companies and strengthen assurances of labor and socio-economic rights of workers of the dual-certified facility. A garment facility that achieves SA8000™ and Fair Trade certifications through a joint audit process increases its market opportunities with brands that demand audits to Fair Trade, SA8000™ and/or the BSCI code, while avoiding duplicative audits. Achieving both certifications strengthens both workers' capacity to exercise their labor rights and also their socio-economic opportunities from the Fair Trade premium. So far, this SAAS-SAI-Fair Trade USA initiative has conducted two pilot joint audits. Following this auditor workshop and additional pilot audits, the parties will next develop guidance for joint audit guidance. The initiative has begun with SA8000™-certified facilities that supply or can access U.S. markets, where the Fair Trade Certified garments are being piloted by select supporting brands and retailers. Building on SA8000™ in garment factories, Fair Trade Certified garments represent the first product that carries consumer assurance of labor, socio-economic and environmental standards from the cotton fields through the cut-make-trim facilities. For more information, contact RZaid@saasaccreditation.org Click here to read the initial article on this pilot project, from SAI's April 2010 newsletter |
Notes from the Field: Roundtable Dialogue on Sugar & Labor Rights in the Dominican Republic Facing Challenges in the Sugarcane Sector, Producers Meet to Discuss the Business of Improving the Industry in the Dominican Republic
A colono, sugar cane producer, discusses his views on labor inspection protocols for the agricultural sector with the DR's Ministry of Labor, as meeting participants such as Maximo Mercedes (center), Member of the Board of Directors of Colonos de Consuelo, listens intently.
 | On November 20, 2010 in Barahona, Dominican Republic, Elena Arengo (SAI's Director of Latin American Programs) met with 15 independent colonos (sugarcane producers) affiliated with the Asociaci�n de Colonos de Consuela (a regional federation of 500 colonos)-- to discuss their experiences in sugarcane production since working with SAI's Project Cultivar. The sugarcane producers stated that one of the ways that Project Cultivar has strengthened their position in the local industry is through facilitation of their participation in mesas de di�logo, roundtable dialogues, hosted by the Dominican Ministry of Labor. At these bi-monthly roundtables, colonos sit with corporations and government officials to discuss ways to address the industry's lack of compliance with international labor standards. This is an industry where 95% of the labor force consists of undocumented migrant workers from Haiti. The lack of regulation specific to the agricultural sectors allows violations of civil liberties of the Haitian workers who are denied social protections such as social security due to their illegal status. Maximo Mercedes, Member of the Board of Directors of Colonos de Consuelo, stated, "We have to address this in the roundtable meetings. That is what Project Cultivar gives us...with this project, we place the issue in the hands of those responsible for resolving it- the state." Colonos today face great challenges as the harvesting of sugarcane has not been a profitable lately. During the discussion, the colonos attributed their hardships to the recent collapse in the global sugar market, where prices plummeted from $700 per ton in 2009 to $500 in recent months. A common sentiment agreed upon by all the colonos at the meeting was, "those of us who continue in sugarcane, do it because we are not ashamed, we do it out of respect for our parents." Meanwhile, the cost of production for suppliers of sugarcane has not fallen. Based on the market price of sugar, colonos customarily receive an advance from local sugar manufactures such as Grupo Vicchini and Central Romana, who ultimately purchase their raw product. However, these funds often fall short of covering the cost of harvesting and production costs. Given such shortfalls, it can be difficult if not impossible to implement to the necessary management systems required for occupational health and safety policies such as the provision of personal protective equipment or preventive medical examinations. During the discussion, some colonos noted, "Project Cultivar helps us to organize ourselves in a manner that will allow us to do give our employees the assistance that they should be receiving." "Project Cultivar has sparked an attitude of change," remarked one colono, "things have to be done within the law. That is why they are going to search for a legal framework that protects them [Haitian workers in the sector]." Under Project Cultivar, the colonos learned about the benefits of strong labor legislation, and are looking for models from other industries, such as the Dominican construction industry, which has legislation regarding the provision of social security to immigrant workers. The colonos have since formed a committee to further investigate the laws governing the construction industry and plan to raise the issue at the next mesa de di�logo on December 16. Since its inception in 2008, Project Cultivar has worked to raise awareness about the rights and responsibilities of all stakeholders in the sugar and banana industries in the Dominican Republic. Providing manager-worker trainings on health and safety policy and multi-stakeholder dialogue through local partners Centro de Investigaci�n y Apoyo Cultural (CIAC) and Instituto para la Cultura y la Autogesti�n Popular de la Regi�n Noroeste, Inc. (INCAP) Project Cultivar has established working relationships with 15 sugarcane producers and 15 banana growers and trained over 1,010 workers, 125 managers, and 110 representatives from government and civil society in the Dominican Republic. For more information, contact SAI Program Associate, Eliza Wright- EWright@sa-intl.org. |
From New York to Sweden: SAI's Craig Moss Leads Interactive Presentation on SA8000 The Presentation "Implementing a Socially Responsible Supply Chain" Streamed Live
On November 30, Craig Moss, Director of Corporate Programs & Training, led an interactive presentation entitled "Implementing a Socially Responsible Supply Chain" for the Sustainable Purchasing Workgroup of the CSR V�stsverige (CSR West Sweden) Association. Streaming live to meeting participants in G�teborg, Sweden from SAI headquarters in New York, this 2 hour on-line presentation covered trends in the socially responsible supply chain, elements and advantages of SA8000™, business benefits of improved social compliance, introduction to the Social Fingerprint™Program, and getting started with management systems and building internal compliance teams.
Participants included representatives that ranged from Volvo Cars, SKF Group, Gothenburg University, Lindex Group, and Gothenburg City's Sustainable Procurement department.
Jean-Dominique Rugiero, the Working Group's Project Coordinator, noted, "We were very satisfied with Mr. Moss' expertise and presentation. Despite the fact that our members were each at different level of sustainable procurement practice, everyone found the presentation of great value. And exciting to hear about SAI Social Fingerprint™ program too!"
Going forward, participants have expressed an interest in arranging custom training for their companies, as well as SA8000™ training courses.
For more information, contact Kate Critchell, Assistant Manager of Corporate Programs & Training at kcritchell@sa-intl.org.
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Highlights & Announcements
Participants at SAI's CSR Awareness Seminar in Adu Dhabi, UAE on November 10, 2010  | Photo from the inaugural meeting of the ISEAL Stakeholder Council. [From left: Alice Tepper Marlin, SAI; Rob Cameron, FLO; Carsten Schmitz-Hoffman, GTZ; Patrick Mallet, ISEAL Alliance; Daniela Mariuzzo, Rabobank International Brazil (on screen); Mirelle Perrin Decorzent, WWF; Jan Kees Vis, Unilever; Tensie Whelan, Rainforest Alliance]
 | November 2010- SAI President Alice Tepper Marlin is an Advisory Member of the ISEAL Alliance Stakeholder Council The
Council brings together leading individuals from business, government,
civil society and standards systems who have the knowledge and
experience with voluntary standards, to provide a broader perspective on
the development and adoption of ISEAL's credibility tools. The
inaugural meeting convened on December 13-14 outside Washington, D.C. Simona Apostol from Floyd, the hosting organization for SAI's SA8000 Awareness Seminar in Bucharest, Romania on November 11-12, 2010.  | November 30- CIPE Publishes Abridged Article on Spring 2010 Joint Case Study A new article in the CIPE online information site summarizes, " From Principles to Practice: The Role of SA8000 in Implementing the UN Global Compact"-
released at the UNGC Leaders Summit 2010. This joint case study between
CIPE, SAI and the UNGC featured six case studies of companies from
around the world that use SA8000™ as a tool to meet their UNGC
commitments.
November 11-12- SA8000™ Awareness Seminar in Bucharest, Romania, was co-hosted by Floyd and SAI with 20 participants in attendance from a host of different organizations and consulting firms throughout Romania. December 2010- Draft Guiding Principles for Business & Human Rights- Open for Consultation until January 31, 2011 The Special Representative of the UN Secretary-General for Business and Human Rights, Professor John Ruggie, posted the draft "Guiding Principles for the Implementation of the UN 'Protect, Respect and Remedy' Framework" to an online consultation forum.
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