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MFA Forum: Industry Response to the Economic Crisis
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Alice Tepper Marlin Speaks at MFA Forum in Washington DC
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On May 21-22, SAI
President Alice Tepper Marlin spoke at the Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA) Forum in Washington DC. This forum, "Responding to the Crisis: The Global Recession and its Impact on Workers in the Garment and Footwear Industry" convened at the International Finance Corporation office to discuss a framework for action for short to medium term safety nets and trade financing within the garment and footwear industry. It also focused on presenting responses needed to mitigate the risks and strategically plan for the future.
The participants
discussed the dire
circumstances that millions of women and men face in the apparel and footwear
industries. These two industries compose one of the largest
employment sectors in the developing world, where the
economic
crisis has
devastated employment
rates, throwing an
estimated 11.5 million out of work.
Some 80% of apparel
workers are women.
Ms. Tepper Marlin, a member of the MFA Forum's Executive Committee
opened the
panel
on
visions of what could be
ten years after
the MFA Forum framework was implemented, how the industry could look:
"In 2015...Apparel
jobs typically pay a living wage and hours of work are reasonable. In the top
apparel producing countries, the sector functions as a route out of the cycle of
poverty, into a reasonably secure environment where workers are protected by
unemployment insurance from falling into extreme poverty should they be laid
off...Widely
available retraining generally build skills that industry actually needs and
that lead to jobs. As a result, domestic demand substantially supplements the
export market for clothing. Their children have access to public education and
succeed in moving on to higher skill positions. Ladders for advancement enable
entry level workers to move ahead, continually opening up entry level positions
for people now earning under $2/day."
For Alice's full
comments, click here
Forum participants ranged from NGOs, Trade Unions, Government, and Businesses.
Participating on
behalf of SAI
were Corporate Program member, Gap Inc., represented byEva Sage-Gavin, Executive Vice President of Human Resources, Communications and Global Responsibility, and Darryl
Knudsen, Project Manager of Global Partnerships. Neil Kearney, General Secretary of the
International Textile, Garment and Leather Workers' Federation
(ITGLWF)
and a member of the SAI Founders Committee of our Advisory
Board, and SAI Program Director, Judy Gearhart also participated.
Mr. Knudsen led the
session on trade finance. The MFA Forum is a collaboration
of brands and retailers, trade unions, NGOs and multi-lateral institutions in
the textile and garment sector. It aims to improve sustainability while
promoting social responsibility and competitiveness in national garment
industries that are vulnerable in the post-MFA trading environment.
For more information on the MFA Forum, click here |
SAI Europe: Uzbekistan Cotton Update
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On May 24,
the British Sunday paper, The Observer, published an article reporting the efforts of
large retailers to eliminate forced child labor in Uzbekistan's state-sponsored cotton
fields.
Two months ago, in the March edition of SAI's Newsletter, we released an update on the
current situation in Uzbekistan, and retailers'
approaches to rectifying this grim situation. In what is considered to be one
of the most exploitative industries in the world, collective actions taken by some
of the world's largest retailers-Gap
Inc., Tesco, Asda Wal-Mart, and Marks & Spencer, International NGO's such as
the ILRF and As you Sow, and socially responsible investors including Calvert, Domini and ICCR have influenced the previously
uncooperative government to sign the ILO's conventions that commit the country
to stop using forced child labor in its cotton industry.
"We became aware of real problems in Uzbekistan," said Alan Wragg,
Tesco's clothing technical director. "Government-organised forced child labour literally forced kids out of
school into vans. It's awful. The fact that its industry is sponsored by the
government and there's 40% unemployed in the country makes it worse. So when we
became aware of this, we told our suppliers not to use Uzbeki cotton in the supply chain."
The Uzbeki government disputes that its cotton industry sponsors forced child
labor, saying that this claim has been spread by cotton-producing countries
that are losing market share. It adds that its monitors ensure that the best
international standards are adhered to.
The tremendous efforts undertaken by the retailers have been an important step
towards change. Gap Inc. is a Signatory member of
SAI's Corporate Programs, following Tesco in piloting technology to track and
trace its garments from store to farm.
The
Responsible Cotton Network, made up of multiple stakeholders including SAI,
welcomes interested brands and retailers to join in the efforts to put a stop
to this practice.
Meetings have
been organized in San Francisco, Washington DC, and London, and on June 11th in Geneva at the UN, which coincided with the
ILO's International Labor Conference. An additional meeting is scheduled for
September in Germany,
details to be provided. Webinars regarding
this issue are planned for June 17th and June 25th
More
information can be found at www.responsible-cotton.net or contact Sean Ansett, SAI European Representative at SAnsett@sa-intl.org for more details on
how to become involved.
To read the full article, click here |
A Look Inside SA8000: The Next Decade
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Book excerpt: SA8000: The First Decade. Implementation, Influence, and Impact, edited by Deborah Leipziger.
Chapter 1: TNT and SA8000
"In 2003, TNT recognized the importance of market
differentiation to ensure its survival in a highly competitive market.
Demonstrating leadership in corporate sustainability was one part of our
strategy to achieve overall industry leadership. We also recognized that
corporate social responsibility (CSR) encompassed not only what we did with our
profits, but also how we went about making them. We said that it went beyond
philanthropy and compliance to addressing how we managed our economic, social,
and environmental impacts, as well as our relationships with our key
stakeholders.
Engaging employees in corporate sustainability was considered an opportunity to
instill pride and genuinely inspire them, in particular commitments that
extended beyond compliance.
TNT recognizes that applying SA8000 or any other standard cannot in itself
guarantee fair practice; it must be combined with continuous monitoring by our
workers, management, NGOs, and local authorities as well as having 'mind-sets'
of social values that are not only espoused but also lived and owned by our
business units and countries."
This chapter was written by Mike Patrick, Corporate Social Responsibility Director, TNT. For more information or to order a copy of this book, click here |
Upcoming SAI Training Courses
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5-Day Basic Auditor Training July 6-10: New Delhi, India Enroll Now July 20-24: São Paulo, Brazil Enroll Now
3-Day Advanced Auditor Training July 20-22: Athens, Greece Enroll Now
Professional Development Series July TBD: Shenzhen, China Enroll Now July TBD: Padua, Italy Enroll Now July TBD: Manza, Italy Enroll Now
SA8000: 2008 Standard Training Revision Course- Online Webinar July-September 2009: Web-Based Training Enroll Now
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5-Day Basic Auditor Training August 3-7: Tokyo, Japan Enroll Now August 17-21: Istanbul, Turkey Enroll Now
August 17-21: Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Enroll Now
3-Day Advanced Auditor Training August 24-26: Shanghai, China Enroll Now Professional Development Series August TBD: Dubai, UAE Enroll Now August 11-12: Shanghai, China Enroll NowSA8000: 2008 Standard Training Revision Course- Online WebinarJuly-September 2009: Web-Based Training Enroll Now |
3-Day Advanced Auditor Training September 23-25: Milan, Italy Enroll Now
Professional Development Series September 22-23: San Jose, Costa Rica Enroll Now September 28-29: Hamburg, Germany Enroll Now September 29-30: Karachi, Pakistan Enroll Now September 29-30: California, USA Enroll Now
SA8000: 2008 Standard Training Revision Course- Online Webinar July-September 2009: Web-Based Training Enroll Now |
Corporate Programs Member Update
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Chiquita Wins Excellence Award for Sustainability in Global Logistics
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 From left: Waheed Zaman, senior vice president, product supply; Manuel Rodriguez, senior vice president and corporate responsibility officer; Deverl Maserang, vice president, product supply; Dr. Omar Keith Helferich, Ph.D., Central
Michigan University; Ana Lucia Alonzo, director of advance planning. |
On May 13, 2009, the Distribution Business Management Association (DBMA), represented by 50 of the top global supply chain companies, gave Chiquita Brands International the 2009 Circle of Excellence Award at the DBMA's annual meeting in Jacksonville, Florida. This is the Association's highest recognition for environmental protection and Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiatives.
SAI Advisory Board member, Manuel Rodriguez, Senior Vice President and Corporate Responsibility Officer at Chiquita, received the award and shared highlights of the company's CSR programs.
"It was my pleasure to accept this award on behalf of the Chiquita global organization," said Mr. Rodriguez. "Our focus on practical accomplishments in sustainability over the past 10 years has helped transform the company into a CSR leader. We're excited about the future as we collaborate with top organizations and universities on the challenges ahead in sustaining our natural resources and caring for our environment."
DBMA presents this award to the one company each year that demonstrates the highest standards of quality and technology in supply chain logistics.
The award recipient is selected by an international panel of judges representing top universities and industry trade associations in the U.S. The judges evaluated Circle of Excellence award candidates on criteria including supply chain environmental and disaster continuity preparedness, performance metrics on improved product or process quality, and overall cost efficiency. The award criteria also focused on environmental programs related to waste reduction and efficient use of packaging materials.
Chiquita Brands International has been a supporting member of SAI's Corporate Programs since November 2007. With annual revenues of nearly $4 billion, Chiquita employs
approximately 23,000 people and has operations in more than 80
countries worldwide.
For more information on how to become an SAI Corporate Programs member, click here
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Project Cultivar Welcomes a New Staff Member
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Antonio Duarte Joins Project Cultivar Team in Nicaragua
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Project Cultivar welcomes a new staff member, Antonio Jose Duarte Valle, as SAI
Project Cultivar's Assistant Director.
Previously, Mr. Duarte worked at the Bank of the Production (BANPRO) in Nicaragua as
Vice-manager of credit. He graduated as Industrial Engineer from the American
University (UAM) in Managua,
Nicaragua, and
completed a Masters degree in International Development and Finance at the
University of Manchester, United Kingdom, graduating with honors.
With his background in development and finance, Mr. Duarte will strengthen
Project Cultivar's work to promote a culture of labor compliance together with
employers, workers, unions of workers and the Governments of Nicaragua, Honduras and the Dominican Republic.
SAI's Project Cultivar, supported by the US Department of Labor, and having
partner organizations in three countries, works in the agricultural sector in Nicaragua, Honduras,
and the Dominican Republic.
The project seeks to increase the capacity of employers, workers, trade unions
& Government Ministries to develop a culture of compliance with national
and international labor laws.
For more information on Project Cultivar, click here |
The Golden Book-- A Call to End Human Trafficking: A Collective of Voices
SAI President, Alice Tepper Marlin and SAI Advisory Board member Dan Henkle, Senior Vice President
of Global Social Responsibility for Gap Inc, contributed to the second edition
of The Golden Book-- A Call to End Human Trafficking: A
Collective of Voices. The book was successfully launched during the "Human
Trafficking at the Crossroads" conference in March in the Kingdom of Bahrain.
The Golden Book is a compilation of statements from
leaders who support the End Human
Trafficking Now! campaign. In her statement, Ms. Tepper Marlin explains the prevalence of
human trafficking in today's world and how the SA8000 Standard addresses the
subject of human trafficking to protect the rights of workers worldwide.
Human
trafficking is addressed in provision #4 of the SA8000 standard. "Implementing
this provision is not as simple as it might seem, for those who engage in
trafficking generally recognize it is illegal. They disguise these activities,
hiding them far from the view of customers, auditors, and even prime suppliers
who eschew forced labor."
Other contributors
to the book include Amir Dossal, Executive Director
of the UN Fund International Partnerships; and Georg Kell, Executive Director
of the UN Global Compact.
To download
a copy of this book, click here
Comply and Prosper: Corporate Social Responsibility and Challenges for Indian Companies
SAI Director of Corporate Programs
and Training, Craig Moss, was featured in the June issue of India's Management Next magazine in an article entitled, "Comply and Prosper."
Management Next is a monthly that
seeks to provide inspirational knowledge and perspective to CEOs and business
owners worldwide. The June 2009 issue was a special issue dedicated to 'Green
Management.'
In "Comply and Prosper," Mr. Moss
concentrates on the importance of corporate social responsibility as a way to
improve business, and on how companies can get started. "Corporate social
responsibility is shifting from a risk mitigation strategy to becoming a
competitive business advantage...Leaders today can clearly see the link between
improved social compliance and business
performance." He also speaks about the challenge for Indian companies,
"Practically all companies that have implemented SA 8000 in India have
realized that the implementation makes them look at social compliance beyond
"just taking care of statutory compliances as per labor laws."
For a copy
of this article, please contact Joleen Ong
Ashoka Foundation's
Bill Drayton Honored by Yale University
On May 25,
Bill Drayton, Chair and CEO of the Ashoka Foundation, was awarded an Honorary
Doctorate of Human Letters by Yale
University at its 308th
commencement ceremony. The degree was
conferred in recognition of Ashoka's role in creating and building the field of
social entrepreneurship, along with the organization's central contribution to
build a world where solutions outrun the problems. Started in 1702, the honorary degrees awarded
at Yale University Commencement are the highest honor conferred by the
university.
In his citation, Yale University
President Richard C. Levin noted, "You have defined and perfected the role
of social entrepreneur, helping people around the world help themselves.
As the founder of Ashoka: Innovators for the Public, you have sought creative
solutions to the most pressing social problems."
The Ashoka Foundation is a
global citizen group that has fostered entrepreneurial programs since 1980 in
fields including economic development, social awareness, environmentalism,
health, and human rights. Bill Drayton
is credited for defining the field of
social entrepreneurship, and is a member of Ashoka's Global Academy
for Social Entrepreneurship. SAI
President, Alice Tepper Marlin, is also one of the six founding members of the
Global Academy for Social Entrepreneurship at
the Ashoka Foundation since 2005, and was documented in its 16-disc DVD series
entitled, "The Social Entrepreneurship Series."
For more
information and to view video footage, click here |
Interns play an important role here at SAI. This summer, we are
pleased to welcome Emily Dinan, Hope Lewis, Kerry Scanlon, and Jessy Teicher, and to introduce them, in her own
words:
Emily Dinan As an anthropology major at Columbia University,
I am keenly aware of the importance of the work SAI does in the field of
promoting human rights for workers. My
background is in the arts, having been a dancer for the Martha Graham Dance
Company, and I worked in fundraising for dance companies and small theaters. When I decided to give my leotard and tights
a break for a while, I wanted to explore another field I have always been
interested in-- working with human rights issues. Through my development internship at SAI, I
hope to gain insight and experience in the world of fundraising for a
human rights organization. Overall, I
want to use my time at SAI to better understand the nuts and bolts of a
non-profit organization that is making an impact around the world.
Hope Lewis I'm
a senior Spanish major at Wellesley College and I became interested in Latin America when I taught
elementary and middle school kids in San Jorge, Nicaragua for a month
after my freshmen year of college. I recently became interested in
human rights after I spent the past fall semester studying human rights
in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Those experiences led me to choose to
volunteer my time at SAI because I was intrigued by the idea of
implementing human rights in the workplace. I am most interested in
the implementation of the SA8000 in Latin America. Right now, I am
working in the Program Department on Project Cultivar with Julia
Ponce, reading diagnostics about the project and learning how the
project works in Honduras, Nicaragua, and the
Dominican Republic. Working here has been great and it has opened my
eyes to the problematic working conditions workers face each day, and
it has also shown me effective ways of fixing these problems.
Kerry Scanlon I am a rising senior at Wellesley College, majoring in French and Economics and have a passion for development work. I chose to intern at SAI this summer because of its focus on sustainable and responsible manufacturing, especially in the developing world, which I think is a very important, yet often overlooked, aspect of today's global business market. Throughout the course of my internship at SAI, I will be working with Eileen Kaufman on different projects, including reviewing the ISEAL code of good practice for impact assessment of voluntary standards. Already during my first few days of working with SAI, I have learned so much and hope to continue discovering new and interesting things about this field.
Jessy Teicher I recently graduated from Columbia University with a masters in Human Rights and Eurasian studies. For my thesis, I researched how CSR initiatives are pressuring the Uzbek government towards reforming the state-sponsored human rights abuses prevalent in the Uzbek cotton industry. My research took me back to Uzbekistan, where I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in 2005, and back to when I attended an annual cotton fair in Tashkent last October-- the only American non-industry professional in attendance. At SAI, I am working with the Program Department with Judy Gearhart, writing a report on best practices companies can use to manage their supply chains all the way to the cotton fields. I'm also working on grant proposals that would enable SAI to continue exploring and implementing cotton traceability initiatives. So far, working here has been such a fascinating experience. I find it really interesting to see how SAI applies different CSR theories to ensure that corporations comply with fundamental human rights requirements.
We are always welcoming new interns, for opportunities click here |
Announcements and Upcoming Events
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GRI Sustainability Reporting Short Course
25-26 June 2009, Chicago, USA
LEAD, Deloitte and Intertek Sustainability Solutions will present 2-day
short courses on the world's most widely used sustainability reporting framework
of the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI) in the USA
and Canada.
LEAD's GRI-certified training initiative has been endorsed by the Certified
General Accountants Association of Canada (CGA-Canada), the
Association of Chartered Certified Accountants (ACCA) and the Shareholder
Association for Research & Education (SHARE). Intertek has been accredited by SAAS to conduct audits under the SA8000 standard since 1999. For more information, click here Sustainability Stakeholder Engagement
15-16 July 2009, New York City
This event reports on innovations in corporate sustainability engagement
with multi-stakeholders, including a ground-breaking session on using
social media to build green credentials. Keynotes from experts in
sustainability engagement, including: Sprint, SAP, Whole Foods, ITT, Nestle
Waters, Sharp, the NFL and more. For more information, click here
International Labor Standards, Rights and Beyond, Conference
14-15 August 2009, Stanford Law School, California
The conference will focus on the development of international labor
standards and rights, beginning with a keynote address by Judge Rosemary
Barkett of the United States Court of Appeals for the Eleventh Circuit. Speakers
will address topics including country-specific labor programs linking trade and
labor rights, and the roles of the World Trade Organization and the
International Labor Organization. Dan Henkle, SAI Advisory Board Member and Senior Vice President of Social Responsibility at Gap, Inc. is a featured speaker at this upcoming event. For more information, click here
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We invite you to continually send any updates for us to publish in our monthly newsletters!
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Social Accountability International (SAI) is an international non-governmental organization that
promotes workers rights through multi stakeholder collaboration including
companies, trade unions and NGOs. It assists partners in the development and
use of practical tools, particularly the SA8000 standard, for safe and decent
workplace conditions.
SAI and the SA8000 standard focus on the human elements of
the workplace and the supply chain. SA8000 is the standard that considers the
importance of each job and strives to recognize the equal dignity of each
person involved in the supply chain - from the worker to the retailer to
the consumer. Today SA8000 certification covers over 1830 facilities in 68
countries, across 67 industries, and over one million employees.
SAI is one of the world's leading social compliance
training organizations, having provided training to over 15,000 people. SAI
courses integrate compliance with management systems issues.
SAI is headquartered in the United States with representations in Brazil, China, India, the Netherlands, Nicaragua, Spain, and Vietnam.
SAI 15 West 44th Street, 6th Floor New York, NY 10036 (212) 684-1414 Website: http://www.sa-intl.org
For newsletter inquiries contact: Joleen Ong
jong@sa-intl.org |
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