News from Executive Image

Mass-made clothing is, of necessity, sized for the masses. Dimensions are reduced to the most likely measurements and produced accordingly. While mass-made clothing may fit the greatest number of people, it can create an unappealing presentation for those without an "average" build. Rather than attempt to fit themselves into the average suit, those on the extremes of either height or girth, like anyone who wants options in their personal wardrobes, are best served by custom-fit clothing.

Follow these suit-selection tips according to your build:

Taller gentlemen need full-proportioned clothing for both naturalness and style. The suit jacket should affect an easy-fitting demeanor, particularly around the torso and waist, with ample breadth across the shoulders and sufficient length for symmetry and balance. The rule of thumb on jacket length: short jackets on short men, long ones for tall men.

Tall men have plenty of vertical lines, so they need to produce horizontal ones. Three button and even double breasted jackets balance out the gentleman's length and details like patch and flap pockets or an extra ticket pocket inject style and verticality. Horizontal Checks, overplaids, and windowpanes provide balance. If stripes are favored they need some width for appropriate symmetry. We don't recommend smaller patterns, as they exaggerate a tall man's length.

Those blessed with more girth than height should wear jackets cut with straight-hanging or slightly shaped body lines so they appear to hang loose from the shoulder downward. The single breasted, two button jacket is the most flattering. Colors in medium to dark register in solids or stripe patterns, and smooth fabrics will minimize girth. This slims down the silhouette while enhancing the vertical. Striped shirts with a solid or patterned tie add length without emphasizing width, to create a pleasing ensemble.

Athletically built gentlemen must create a look that balances a thin waist with broad shoulders. This is accomplished through a slightly tapered jacket to slim the torso, paired with pleated trousers and a striped or solid shirt.

Trim fits in jackets and trousers are currently in vogue. Consequently many younger and more style conscious men prefer "flat front" trousers without pleats. For men with small waists, 34 or smaller, the flat front trouser is a flattering silhouette. However, for a man with a more prominent middle, pleats provide more fullness in the front so the trouser can hang straight from the waist.