University of Maine Cooperative Extension
fruits and veggies

Piscataquis & Penobscot

Gardening Newsletter

Volume 9 Issue 5                                                May 2011
In This Issue
Heirloom Vegetables
Growing Blueberries
May is the Month to...
Featured Extension Garden Publications
Mission
University of Maine Cooperative Extension is the major educational outreach program of the University of Maine, with offices statewide.  UMaine Extension provides Maine people with research-based educational programs to help them live fuller, more productive lives.
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Goal
 The goal of the Piscataquis & Penobscot Gardening Newsletter is to provide timely information on practical, sustainable, research-based horticultural practices, tools and techniques which will improve home gardening success in our two counties.  Upcoming events and programs of interest will also be included.
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Wish List

Do you have unwanted, but still very usable garden supplies that you would like to donate to a good cause?  If so, please consider donating to your local Cooperative Extension.  Supplies will be shared with public gardening efforts in your area and you'll be able to enjoy a little more space in your workshop.

 

Here's a list of some items we are looking for:

  • Seeds
  • Wheelbarrows
  • Spades
  • Garden forks
  • Shears
  • Hand tools
  • Pick Axe
  • Hoses (in good shape, please)
  • Small storage shed

 

If you have supplies that are not listed here that you think we might be interested in, please contact Donna in Piscataquis County (564-3301) or Kate in Penobscot County (942-7396) to see if they would be interested.

Seed Starting Series Part 4:  Hardening Off and Transplanting Seedlings

 

It's time to start preparing your precious little ones for the garden.  Many avid gardeners have made the heartbreaking mistake of planting seedlings without properly adjusting them to their new environment.  This adjustment process is known as "hardening off".  The results of not properly hardening off seedlings range from stunted, delayed growth to total loss of plants.  Plants grown indoors, or in a warm greenhouse, should be gradually acclimated to increased air movement, higher light levels, and cooler temperatures over a period of at least one or two weeks.  Seedlings can be brought outside as soon as temperatures are 45F or warmer.  Plants should initially be left outside for a few hours in a lightly shaded location, protected from the wind, and then brought back inside to their nursery area for the remainder of the day and evening.  Gradually extend the duration and exposure each day.    

 

In our region, it is best to wait until the end of May to transplant most seedlings.  Warm season crops (i.e. tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant) may even benefit by planting in early June.  This is especially true if you don't plan to protect your crops after they are planted.  Watch the weather and provide protection for plants when temperatures are expected to drop and/or when wind is expected.  Milk jugs and plastic soda bottles make excellent mini greenhouses for these conditions.  Leave the cap off to prevent the plants from getting too hot.  Floating row covers also provide great protection for young plants.  However, crops such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplant do not tolerate the row cover touching their leaves.  Mini hoops should be used to keep the row cover above the foliage of these crops.  Be sure to remove row covers when flowers appear to allow insects to pollinate. 

 

For more information:  Bulletin #2751, Starting Seeds at Home

So would you like to grow blueberries?

 

With spring quickly approaching thoughts of growing small fruits in the back yard is looking more appealing to more home owners then ever. Highbush blueberries seem to be among one of the most popular choices out there. Weather it's appeal is due to the relative ease of harvest or the great nutritional value more people then ever are interested in them.

 

David T. Handley, Extension vegetable and small fruit specialist At the University of Maine has compiled a publication on many of the small fruits. Among them is growing highbush blueberries. http://umaine.edu/publications/2253e 

Here are a few excerpts from that publication.

Blueberries are native to North America, and the delicious fruit has been harvested in the wild for centuries. However, growing blueberry plants in gardens and on farms is a relatively recent occurrence, since breeding and propagation of blueberry plants did not begin until early in the 20th century.

Highbush blueberries belong to the same family of plants as cranberries, rhododendrons, and azaleas. They have limited adaptation to the cold winter temperatures of northern New England, but may grow satisfactorily on warmer, protected sites where the winter temperatures do not fall below -25 degrees F.

 

Suggested Varieties

 

Because of Maine's cold winter temperatures and short growing season, you should select blueberry varieties that are described as very hardy and that ripen early or midseason (Table 1). It is usually best to plant more than one variety. Although some blueberries are self-fruitful, cross-pollination among different varieties will improve fruit set and fruit size. In addition, using two or more varieties that ripen at different times will lengthen the harvest season.

  

 

Table 1. Highbush Blueberry Varieties for Northern New England

Variety

Plant Characteristics

Fruit Qualities

Ripening Season

Patriot

 

Short, upright, moderate vigor

Medium-large, firm, excellent quality

Early-midseason

Northland

Short, spreading growth habit, vigorous

Medium-small, soft, fair quality, high yields

Early

Bluecrop

Full-sized, upright

Large, firm, good quality

Midseason

Blueray

Full-sized, spreading growth habit

Large, firm, good quality, high yields

Early-midseason

Meader

Full-sized, upright, vigorous

Large, firm, fair quality

Early-midseason

Jersey

Full-sized, upright

Medium-size, firm, fair quality, high yields

Late

Nelson

Full-sized, upright

Large, firm, good quality

Mid-late

Blue Gold

Short, upright, moderate vigor

Medium-sized, good quality

Mid-late

St. Cloud

Short, spreading

Medium-sized, dark, good yields

Midseason

 Find more of our publications and books at extensionpubs.umext.maine.edu. And check out bulletin #2253 Growing Highbush Blueberries

 

 


May is the Month to...

Start your vine crops indoors so they will be ready to transplant when the weather is consistently warmer.  This includes pumpkins, cucumbers, squash, melons and water melons. 
Check the seedlings you started to be sure they are getting enough fertilizer.  Yellow or purple leaves in some crops indicates the lack of nitrogen or phosphorus.  Be careful since these signs can also mean the plants are not getting enough light or heat.
When your garden is tilled you can direct seed cold tolerant crops such as lettuce, carrots, peas, and potatoes. Once the transplants have been hardened off you can set out your broccoli, cabbage and related cabbage crops. Onion sets need to the planted to be sure they put on plenty of leaf growth befor bulb development starts the end of June.
Check Asiatic Lilies for lily leaf beetle. The adult is a bright red beetle and the larvae is yellow but usually carries it's black excrement on it's back. They will completely distroy your lilies unless they are controlled by hand picking or pesticides.
Strawberries should have the mulch pulled off, but be vigilant about frost warnings when the flower buds appear.  The tight bud stage is susceptible to frost injury at 25 degrees F, "popcorn"stage is susceptible at 28 degrees F, open blossoms are susceptible at 30 degrees F and fruit is susceptible at 28 degrees F. If frost is predicted you can either cover your strawberry bed with the straw that was removed earlier in the spring, use a blanket/ tarp or plan to irrigate a light mist when the temperature reaches the susceptible stage for your plants.
Enjoy the beautiful bouquets of daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs that you planted last fall.  The lilacs will be in bloom before you know it.

Featured Extension Publications

The following agriculture related Extension publications are available or can be ordered at the Extension Office nearest you.  You will notice that some publications are free and some have a cost recovery charge.  Many other publications are available for free online or may be purchased at our secure publications web site.

Featured Bulletins -
 
 

Flowering Crab Apples of Maine

http://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2058e/

Growing Strawberries

http://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2067e/

Designing Your Landscape for Maine

http://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2701e/

 

Contact Info
Donna R. Coffin, Extension Educator
207-564-3301 or in Maine 1-800-287-1491
and
Katherine Garland, Horticulturist
207-942-7396 or in Maine 1-800- 287-1485

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Information in this newsletter is provided purely for educational purposes. No responsibility is assumed for any problems associated with the use of products or services mentioned in this newsletter. No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.

SURFACE MAIL RECIPIENTS CAN CONTACT THEIR COUNTY EXTENSION OFFICE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION WHEN WEB LINKS ARE INCLUDED IN AN ARTICLE.

 

Piscataquis County Office 207-564-3301 or 800-287-1491

165 East Main Street Dover-Foxcroft, ME 04426

 

 

 

Penobscot County Office 207-942-7396 or 800-287-1485

307 Maine Avenue Bangor, ME 04401