University of Maine Cooperative Extension
fruits and veggies

Piscataquis & Penobscot

Gardening Newsletter

Volume 8 Issue 11                                              November 2010
In This Issue
Bangor Community Garden
Don't Feed the Deer
Mulching for Winter
Ask Kate and Hannah Your Garden Question
Monthly Garden Activities
Mission
University of Maine Cooperative Extension is the major educational outreach program of the University of Maine, with offices statewide.  UMaine Extension provides Maine people with research-based educational programs to help them live fuller, more productive lives.
Quick Links 
and
 Please take a moment to complete our survey  Click Here for the Survey. 
 
Thanks.
Goal
 The goal of the Piscataquis & Penobscot Gardening Newsletter is to provide timely information on practical, sustainable, research-based horticultural practices, tools and techniques which will improve home gardening success in our two counties.  Upcoming events and programs of interest will also be included.
with articles from other Extension staff

Bangor Community Garden Update


By: Kate Garland, Penobscot County Extension Home Horticulture Program Aide

We have been very busy this fall!  Thanks to the support of several individuals and local businesses, 27 raised beds have been constructed and are waiting on-site to be filled.  A generous donation of compost has been delivered as well.   We are now looking for donations to purchase loam. If you are interested in signing up for a plot, donating materials or funds, attending free gardening clinics, or you just want to keep posted on how things are going with the project, please fill out the following survey:  http://conta.cc/bvoXlX or call Kate Garland at 207 942 7396.  Again, thank you for all of your support and interest so far.  We are already off to a great start! Contact Kate Garland at 207 942 7396 or [email protected]

Annual Don't Feed the Deer Appeal

For some home gardeners and home owners deer are a wonderful species of wildlife that they want to see frequently near their home.  We live in a state that is known for its large white tail deer population and want to see them frolicking in our back yard.  To encourage more deer sightings some people start feeding deer grain in the fall.  Unfortunately the folks at Inland Fisheries and Wildlife (IF&W) know that this act can have detrimental affects on the deer in the immediate area.  For years IF&W have tried to discourage people from feeding grain to the deer. 

Why?  It changes the microorganisms in their stomach so the deer can't digest their usual winter diet as well.  They usually browse on tree branches in the winter. Also, feeding grain causes a large number of deer to congregate around the home of the feeder.  They are more susceptible to disease and traffic fatalities.  One year on a one mile stretch of road that I traveled frequently the game wardens said they had cleared over 100 dead deer from the road.  That didn't include the injured deer that ran farther away from the road to die.  This was because a large herd of deer were moving daily between several homes that folks were putting out grain for them. Please don't feed the deer grain!
If you want to help the deer through the winter and you have a wood lot consider developing a management plan to include improving the deer habitate. Annual firewood harvest will leave tops to provide food for the deer. 
Deer can be very destructive in the home landscape and garden.  Anyone trying to grow apple trees, strawberries, cedar hedges, yews, etc. are plagued by deer eating their plants at all times of the year. When neighbors feed the deer the gardens and landscapes in the area have increased deer damage.
For more information visit the Maine Inland Fisheries and Wildlife site on Winter Supplemental Feeding of Deer.

Mulching for Winter    

By: David Heroux, Somerset County Master Gardener  

We are all used to the idea of laying down mulch in the garden after the spring planting is completed.  This mulch serves to retain moisture, prevent weed growth, and make the garden look tidy.  While it does all of the above there is more to the role of winter mulch.  It may seem odd to apply mulch just in time for it to be covered by snow; Mother Nature's natural winter mulch she supplies by the foot, but it does serve an important role when deep snow is not present.  Knowing the reason for winter mulch makes understanding the proper time and techniques easier. 

Why:   Winter mulch does help maintain soil moisture during dry periods, improve the ability of water to be absorbed into the soil and prevent erosion in the spring. However, winter mulch is not intended to keep plants warm during the winter.  To the contrary it is better to think that the role of mulch is to keep things cold.  Mulch does insulate plants from unusually cold air temperature if they occur before or after snow cover.  The primary function of winter mulch is to minimize temperature fluctuations in the soil.  Here in Maine snow cover fills this role for much of the winter but the garden also needs a good winter blanket at the beginning and end of the season when temperatures fluctuate the most and there is less likelihood of snow cover.  During times of temperature fluctuations plants can be susceptible to frost heaving which can cause root damage.  In severe cases the entire crown of a perennial can be lifted out of the soil and killed by cold air temperatures.  Root damage can lead to weakened plants which may be more prone to diseases or under-performing.  Frost heaving is caused by segregated ice formation that pushes up on the soil from below.  Segregated ice is different than normal frozen ground where the ice crystals and soil particles are not separated.  It is most common in periods of freezing and thawing.  Mulch insulates the ground from warmer air temperatures and prevents warming of the soil by direct exposure to sunlight. Since mulch reduces freeze thaw cycles it can limit the formation of segregated ice. 

When:   Since the goal of winter mulch is to keep plants cold it is important to not apply it too soon.   Winter mulch should be placed once regular cold temperatures have been reached.  Perennial plants should have had at least a few hard frosts (below 25 oF) in order for them to become dormant.  Premature mulch application can cause the plants to warm and prevent dormancy.  Additionally, early application of mulch can cause new growth on some plants which will weaken the plant when it finally does go dormant.

What:  Any mulch that is easy to apply and remove and will work for winter mulching. You want to make sure the material you choose stays in place, won't compact, is free of pests and diseases, and is economical.  Pine needles and shredded leaves are popular, and typically free, choices for the task.  It is important to avoid using whole leaves which can compact easily leading to a dense mat which can prevent oxygen from penetrating the soil. Leaves can be shredded by running them over a few times with a mulching lawnmower.  Pine needles are resistant to compacting but will add acid to soil so be sure they are only used in the appropriate area.  In some cases the dead leaves of the plant provides the perfect mulch and can be left until the spring. 

How:  2-4 inches of mulch is recommended for most applications. Be sure that any diseased material is removed from the bed before mulching.  For woody plants it is important to make sure the mulch is not against the stem.  Placing mulch in direct content with the bark can lead to diseases and encourage insects and rodents to damage the plant.  You should leave about a half inch space between the mulch and the stems.  Equally important to mulching at the correct time in the fall is remembering to remove the mulch in the spring.  Typically, mulch should be removed after the last frost in the spring.  Waiting too long to remove the mulch can cause early growth to be spindly and weak.  Once you remove your winter mulch it can be added to the compost pile or left on the garden using the same techniques you would use for spring or summer mulching.      

So there is still time to prepare your garden beds for a winter rest before Mother Nature brings her unending load of fluffy white mulch.   A little time invested now will help your plants survive the winter in better condition and give them a better start in spring. 

 

Ask Kate and Hannah Your Garden Question

Kate Garland and Hannah Todd share current garden questions they have received in the Penobscot and Piscataquis County Extension Offices.

 

 Q:  What should I do to treat my lawn for grubs this fall?

 

A:  The problem:  A few different types of adult beetles lay their eggs in turf sometime in early to mid summer.  These eggs hatch and the resulting larvae are referred to as grubs.  Grubs typically feed on the roots of the turf, in turn, leads to plant decline.  This decline often went unnoticed this summer because it was hard to distinguish from heat and dry weather stress.  When the precipitation returned in late summer/early fall, the grass surrounding the damaged areas grew, thus making the damaged areas noticeable.  At the same time, many homeowners experienced an influx of birds and other critters digging around for grubs in their lawn.  The solution:  Using a combination of approaches is essential.  Nothing can be done to manage the grubs at this point in the year.  Adult beetles can be managed using traps, insecticides, natural predators, and by picking them by hand.  White grub management is best timed when the grubs are feeding on the roots during summer months.  Your best strategy is to watch this helpful video:  http://extension.umaine.edu/blog/2010/08/09/japanese-beetles/ and look at the following fact sheet:  http://pmo.umext.maine.edu/factsht/japanese.htm to prepare to deal with these critters next season.  Put reminders on your calendar and be ready for the fight in 2011!  If you choose to use insecticides, please read and follow the directions CAREFULLY!  Once again, save your money and save your time by not applying insecticides to your lawn this fall.    

 

Q: What and when do I plant a cover crop in central Maine?

 

A: September 15th "ish" is the cut off date for planting cover crops in central Maine.  So it is too late to plant a cover crop this fall, instead add newspapers, straw, and/or leaves to protect the soil from erosion, which will also add some organic matter as the material breaks down over the winter.  For next year, deciding what to plant will depend on your garden condition.  Many people plant a cover crop for one or more of the following reasons:

  1. To smoother weeds
  2. To add nitrogen to the soil
  3. To add organic matter to the soil
  4. To keep nutrients in place and reduce erosion from precipitation and winds during the winter months.

The Analytical Laboratory and Maine Soil Testing Service have a publication to help, check it out at: http://anlab.umesci.maine.edu/soillab_files/faq/covercrop2.pdf

Monthly Garden Activities & Tips
  • Fall will be the best time to apply manure to your garden.
  • Strawberry plants need protection from winter's extremes, but applying winter mulch too early may cause crowns to rot.  Apply winter protection when plants are dormant but before temperatures drop below 20 degrees F, usually late October to early November.
  • Those successful during hunting season and who wish to donate to Hunters for the Hungry Program can call toll free 1-888-4DEER-ME (888-433-3763)
  • Don't forget to move your ceiling fan switch to the winter setting to help push the warm air near your ceiling down to help your heating system be more efficient.
  • Drain hoses & store, shut off outdoor faucets & protect from cold temperatures, prepare snow shovels & snow blowers for winter use.
  • This winter instead of using straight salt consider mixing with sand to reduce damage to plants and provide traction. Above 10 degrees consider using urea to melt ice, it's not as damaging to plants as salt when used sparingly.   
  • Cover the compost pile with a tarp to reduce the amount of nutrients leached by rain and snow.



Featured Extension Publications
The following agriculture related Extension publications are available or can be ordered at the Extension Office nearest you.  You will notice that some publications are free and some have a cost recovery charge.  Many other publications are available for free online or may be purchased at our secure publications web site. 

 

Balsam Fir Tip Gathering
Item #7011

The demand for balsam fir wreaths has risen over the years. This 4-page bulletin covers basic tip gathering. Includes drawings to help you identify high quality balsam fir tips and remove and stack tips effectively. 2008. Download it for free, or buy a printout for $0.75.

 

Making Balsam Fir Wreaths
Item #7012 Publisher: UMaine Extension
This 4-page fact sheet includes instructions and 11 drawings to lead you through wreath construction step by step. Includes a materials list. 2008. Download it for free, or buy a printout for $0.75


Firewood and Insects
Pest Management Fact Sheets Item #5019 Publisher: UMaine Extension
2-page fact sheet describes insects that "hitchhike" on firewood and how to prevent problems. 1995. Updated 2004. Download it for free: PDF (for printing) / HTML (for browsing) or buy a copy for $0.50

Publisher: UMaine Extension

Upcoming Events   

 
Winter Farmers Markets:
 
Bangor: Every Saturday, 9 to noon, year round, Sunnyside Greenhouse, 117 Buck St., across from Bangor Auditorium parking lot.
 
Orono: 2nd and 4th Saturdays, 9 to noon, December to April
Municipal parking lot between Pine and Mill streets
www.OronoFarmersMarket.org


Other Events: 
 November 15th, 2010 Piscataquis & Penobscot Joint County Extension Executive Committee Meeting, pot luck at the East Corinth Methodist Church on Rt. 15th in Corinth.
November  20th, 2010 4-H VOLT 9:00 am - 2:00 pm.  Potential 4-H leaders, you are invited to attend a 4-H VOLT Training at the Hancock Extension Office. This is an opportunity to get trained as a leader, to finish your training or to just see what 4-H is about. This is a free program. Contact: Norma Hardison, Telephone Number: 207-667-8212, EMail Address: [email protected]
November 30th, 2010 VOLUNTEERS WANTED!  The Maine Dept of Agriculture needs help getting the word about invasive forest insects.  They are offering a FREE training workshop to individuals who are interested in learning about the Asian longhorned beetle and the emerald ash borer, two very serious threats to Maine's trees and forests.  Training will be held at the Fryeburg Fairgrounds on Sat., Nov 30th from 9-3pm.  Contact [email protected] or call 207-287-3892 to register.
January 11th to 13th, 2011 Maine Agriculture Trade Show, Augusta Civic Center.

 

Contact Info
Donna R. Coffin, Extension Educator
207-564-3301 or in Maine 1-800-287-1491
In complying with the letter and spirit of applicable laws and pursuing its own goals of diversity, the University System shall not discriminate on the grounds of race, color, religion, sex, sexual orientation, including transgender status or gender expression, national origin, citizenship status, age, disability, or veteran's status in employment, education, and all other areas of the University System. The University provides reasonable accommodations to qualified individuals with disabilities upon request.  A member of the University of Maine System.
Information in this newsletter is provided purely for educational purposes. No responsibility is assumed for any problems associated with the use of products or services mentioned in this newsletter. No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.

SURFACE MAIL RECIPIENTS CAN CONTACT THEIR COUNTY EXTENSION OFFICE FOR FURTHER INFORMATION WHEN WEB LINKS ARE INCLUDED IN AN ARTICLE.

 

Piscataquis County Office 207-564-3301 or 800-287-1491

165 East Main Street Dover-Foxcroft, ME 04426

 

Penobscot County Office 207-942-7396 or 800-287-1485

307 Maine Avenue Bangor, ME 04401