April Gardening News from Piscataquis County Office of the University of Maine Cooperative Extension

Use composted manure. If you must use fresh (uncomposted) manure, apply it as far before planting as possible and rototill or disk it into the soil. Any manure you apply after planting should be composted manure (composted1 manure is different from aged manure). Do not apply raw animal manure or any product containing manure within sixty days of harvest unless it is commercially processed and guaranteed pathogen-free.
Do not use cat, dog, or pig manure in gardens or compost piles. Parasites that may be in these types of manure can survive and infect people.
Use drinking water, or other water that meets safe testing standards, to water vegetables that you will eat raw. (For water testing questions, contact your county Extension office). This is most important within one month of harvest.
Peel, wash and cook your garden vegetables. When fresh manure is used in a vegetable garden, disease-causing pathogens may get on the vegetables. The risk is greatest for crops like radishes, carrots and leafy vegetables such as lettuce where the edible parts touch the soil. Washing and peeling will remove most of the pathogens that can cause illness. Fully cooking the vegetables will kill any remaining pathogens.
Wash raw vegetables very well before eating them.People who face special risks from foodborne illnesses should not eat uncooked vegetables from manured gardens. Those who should be most careful include pregnant women, the elderly, very young children, and those with chronic diseases such as cancer, kidney failure, chronic liver disease, diabetes, or AIDS.

If you intend to use raw manure please follow these guidelines.

Apply raw manure at least 120 days before harvesting a crop that has the potential for soil contact (leafy greens, root crops, etc). The USDA National Organic Program (NOP) standards allow a 90-day period between manure application and harvest for crops that don't have direct contact potential with soil.
For some gardeners in Maine, the best time to apply raw manure to your garden may be in the fall after harvest; incorporate it into the soil and plant a cover crop to hold nutrients over the winter. This should be done before October 1 for good cover crop establishment.
Never use raw manure as a sidedress to growing plants. Manure that is incorporated and distributed throughout the soil has a much lower risk of passing pathogens to the growing crop.

Source: El-Begearmi M. & R. Kersbergen, "Guidelines for Using Manure on Vegetable Gardens", University of Maine Cooperative Extension, Bulletin #2510, 2010.

Spring and the Arrival of Tree Volcanoes

In their enthusiasm for neatness and uniformity, many gardeners have started placing a ring of mulch around the tree trunks in an effort to keep the grass from growing near the trunk, eliminate the need to mow or use a weed wacker near the trunk. Both of these tools can damage the bark of the tree, creating a potential entry site for diseases and insects.

Unfortunately some gardeners, and professional landscapers as well, put the mulch right up next to the trunk of the tree. Also, they get a little heavy handed and leave the mulch not the recommended two-inches deep but up to eight-inches deep. This phenomena has become so wide-spread that it has its own name - "Tree Volcano." They won't erupt, but the bark covered mulch will stay continuously moist. Eventually decay will set in, followed by insects and wood root. Tree death will be premature. You can rescue your trees and shrubs from Tree Volcano Syndrome by:

Pulling the mulch 3 to 6 inches away from the trunk or stems of the plants.
Thinning the layer of mulch so it is no more than four-inches deep.
Loosening the mulch periodically to improve air and water penetration.

Insects of Early Spring

Serving in the same county for over thirty years has resulted in looking forward to the first appearance of certain insects as the snow goes and the soil and water starts to warm up. Last week I had the call about an insect that was at least three inches long, had some mean looking pinchers on one end and seemed to have wings folded over. It was found in a parking lot that had street lights near it.

My first thought was a predacious diving beetle but the client said it didn't have the hard beetle like wing covers. My next thought went to a Dobson Fly, but alas it wasn't this since the Dobson Fly can be four to five inches in length. Luckily the client was looking at a reference book and could dismiss these insects when I mentioned the names. The final course of action was to either send in the insect or take a photo of the top and bottom and send to the Extension Office.

In a few days the photos came in and the insect identified as a Giant Water Bug. They live in bodies of slow moving water and are attracted to street lights. They are very common in our area. When not found stranded in parking lots they spend their time looking for prey in ponds or streams. They attack a number of aquatic insects, tadpoles and even small fish. It is said that they are vicious biters so it's best not to handle them. They are part of our natural ecosystem so don't kill them, let them be.

Swan, L. & C. Papp, "The Common Insects of North America," Harper& Row Publishers, 1972.

Planting Pointers for Fruit Trees

1. Location, location, location: To be productive fruit trees need full-sun. This means at least six-hours of unshaded sun over the noon hour during the growing season. Shaded trees do not produce fruit buds. No fruit buds, no flowers, no fruit. Next the site needs to be well drained with no standing water. Deep soils help provide sufficient support and nutrients to make the trees thrive. It helps to be near the home so you can keep an eye out for deer and be close enough that you can apply disease and insect controls.

2. Soil preparation: Test the soil and apply needed nutrients and till in before planting the trees. Most unimproved soils in Maine will be lower in pH and will need either lime or wood ashes to bring the pH up to 6.0 to 7.0.

3. Plant varieties that you and your family will use. Eating fresh, making pies, cider, summer time, fall harvest, sweet, tart, red, yellow, etc. there are a lot of varieties with different characteristics to choose from. Be sure to select varieties that are hardy and mature in Maine. Order early to get the varieties you want.

4. Dig hole large enough to accommodate the roots without them wrapping around the edge of the hole. The hole should be deep enough to allow the tree to be planted with the graft union just above the soil line. (If the graft union is planted below the soil, roots will form on the trunk above the graft and the tree will be a full sized tree rather than dwarf or semi dwarf.) Put only the soil back in the planting hole with the roots. Fertilizer can burn the roots and stunt the tree. Fertilizer, compost & other soil nutrients should be added to the soil and tilled in before planting.

5. Form a soil berm around the tree that will hold water near the tree as you water the first few times after planting. The first waters should use two-to five-gallons of water per tree. New trees will need the equivalent of one-inch of rain a week. If there is not enough natural rain water trees accordingly.

6. When first planted many fruit trees require pruning. Check the pruning manuals for details on pruning.

7. Replant old, sick or dying trees with new varieties that are more disease resistant.

8. The first few years be sure to provide adequate weed control since small trees don't compete well with weeds. If you use mulch be sure you do not pile it up against the trunk of the tree, it will soften the bark and give a place for insects and disease to enter the tree. Apply insect and disease control measures to prevent infestation and infection.

Schupp, J., "Planting and Early Care of Fruit Trees," UMaine Extension Publication #2411.

Soil Temperature and Seed Germination & Emergence

Already we have had air temperatures of over 70 degrees and people are anxious to get planting in their gardens but it is important to check the soil temperature before you plant. Soils were almost up to 50 degrees before our weekend rains. When it rains and the air temperature is 45 degrees, it drops the soil temperature to 45 degrees.

Different crops require different minimum temperatures to germinate. Also, the time to germinate will increase with decreased temperatures.

Lettuce can germinate at a soil temperature of 32 degrees but it will take 50-days; at 50 degrees lettuce seed can germinate in 7-days; at 77 degrees the seed will germinate in just 2-days.

Cucumbers will not start germinating until the soil temperature is 59 degrees and then it can take 12-days; at 77 degrees cucumbers can germinate in 6-days; at a toasty 86 degrees soil temp. cucumbers will sprout in 3-days. It pays to wait until the soil temperature is warm enough for the seeds you are trying to grow. Slow germination times leave the seed more susceptible to seed and root diseases.

Mayberry, K., "Temperature Required for Vegetable Seedling Emergence," Imperial Ag Briefs, UC Davis, 2003. http://ceimperial.ucdavis.edu/newsletterfiles/Ag_Briefs2512.pdf

HEARTH VISTA Corner

Judy Morrison our Maine HEARTH VISTA in the Piscataquis County Office is offering any group in Piscataquis County an opportunity to learn how to make Polymer Cool Neck Bands. She will come to your group and demonstrate how to make them. Contact her at the Piscataquis Extension Office 564-3301 or in Maine 1-800-287-1491 or jmorrison@umext.maine.edu.

What are Polymer Cool Neck Bands and why would we need one this summer?

Maine doesn't get the blistering hot summers of other parts of the country, but we can get heat waves of over 100 degrees Fahrenheit and our stores will have a run on air conditioners. Over the years many Mainers have learned cost effective ways of keeping comfortable in hot weather. Here is a quick project that the folks from Washington State University 4-H Youth Development designed that will keep you cool.

Many organizations interested in providing for our troops overseas have taken up this project to make polymer cool neck bands for those serving in the hot areas of the world. This is also a great project for youth since it teaches a number of sewing skills including: using a sewing machine, stitching a tube of fabric & turning, finishing a raw edge by serging or turning & stitching, using a new product and learning about water absorption and evaporation.

Made of cotton and stuffed with water holding granules.

Credit: Donna Coffin

Monthly Garden Activities

Till your garden when the soil is dry enough not to clump. If you form a ball of soil and squeeze it, then release it the ball should only loosely hold together. If it forms a ball that you could toss, your soil is too wet, better to wait.
Many seeds can now be started now. The nightshade crops such as tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant can be started now.
Monitor the seedlings that you have started and transplant to larger containers as needed.
Wait until May 1st to start your vine crop seedlings. They need to be transplanted out into the garden in four weeks.
If your seedlings are too tall and spindly it is a sign of insufficient light or excessive nitrogen. Move to an area with more light and increase the feeding intervals.
If you haven't already uncovered your strawberries, uncover slowly so they don't get sun-burned.
Prune your fruit trees. Be sure to pick up the brush and chip to compost, pile in the woods for wildlife habitat or take to the brush pile at your land fill. Many landfills are able to chip the wood residue in their brush piles and provide a mulching material for municipal projects.
Extend your garden season with cold frame, hot beds, row covers, etc.
Plan your landscape with summer cooling in mind. Small to medium height deciduous shad trees planted near the east and west facing walls of your house can provide cooling shade to the walls. To shade the roof, plant taller deciduous trees planted at the southeast and southwest corners of your yard, but keep the true south side of your house tree-free to get all the solar gain in the winter. Place large trees no closer than 20 feet from the house. Three properly placed trees can save an average of $100 to $250 in heating and cooling costs annually.
Planting a thick line of evergreen trees 40 to 100 feet from the house to block the cold northwesterly winds and evergreen foundation plantings about 5 feet away from the house to create a "dead air" space next to the house will help reduce your winter heating costs.
Watch the new 7-minute video from Steve Johnson, UMaine Potato Specialist on Late Blight for Gardeners and others.

Featured Extension Publications

The following agriculture related Extension publications are available or can be ordered at the Extension Office nearest you. You will notice that some publications are free and some have a cost recovery charge. Many other publications are available for free online or may be purchased at our secure publications web site.

Growing Fruit Trees in Maine
Item #2422
Publisher: UMaine Extension
Designed to provide the home orchardist with the knowledge to successfully grow fruit trees under Maine conditions, this booklet describes cultural practices for apple, pear, peach, cherry, plum, and apricot trees. Covers varieties adapted to Maine, rootstocks, planting, early care, fertilization, pollination, pruning, lack of fruitfulness, pests and diseases, and preparation for winter. Developed by Professor of Pomology Renae Moran and Associate Scientist Glen Koehler; includes 30 color photos that enhance text descriptions. 32 pp, 2008.
$9.50
Planting and Early Care of Fruit Trees
Item #2411
Publisher: UMaine Extension
This 4-page bulletin explains when to plant fruit trees in New England and how best to dig and fill the holes. Discusses care and pruning, weed control, and pest management. 1997. Download it for free: PDF (for printing) / HTML (for browsing).$1.00
Extending the Gardening Season
Item #2752
Publisher: UMaine Extension
Provides an overview of various types of plastic mulches and their uses, as well as row covers, cold frames, hoop houses, hot caps, and insulating water tubes. 5 pages, 2008. Download it for free, or buy a color copy. $0.75

Upcoming Events

April 23rd, 2010, Season Extension with Focus on Cold Frames. Come learn how to get your garden growing earlier in the spring and keep it producing later into the fall! Are you interested in growing produce for a longer period of time? Would you like to learn how to build a cold frame and make a mini hoop house? Class participants will, put together a cold frame and bend hoops with Johnny's Selected Seeds new Quick Hoops Bender, outdoors at the Charlotte White Center.
The class will take place on Friday, April 23rd from 9am to 12pm and there will be a fee of $10. Registration is required, please call Hannah Todd at the Piscataquis County Extension Office at 564-3301 or toll free in Maine at 1-800-287-1491. Cost: $10 Contact: Hannah Todd Telephone Number: 564-3301 E-Mail Address: hannah.todd@maine.eduSponosored By: UMaine Cooperative Extension Piscataquis County Location: Dover-Foxcroft, ME.

May 1st, 2010 Maine Greenhouse & Nursery Day. In the tradition of Maine Farm Days and Maine Maple Sunday, on Maine Greenhouse and Nursery Day over thirty family-owned businesses around the state will hold special events to highlight the joys (and challenges) of gardening in Maine. To find your local participating greenhouse or nursery at: http://www.plants4maine.com and get the details. Planned activities include giveaways, door prizes, raffles, plants and balloons for kids, container gardening demonstrations, landscape design advise, a tomato tasting, personal tours and a free planting calendar for Maine.

July 29 - 30, 2010 Kneading Conference & Artisan Bread Fair

Contact Info
Donna R. Coffin, Extension Educator

207-564-3301 or in Maine 1-800-287-1491

Donna.Coffin@Maine.edu

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