A Mashed Potatoes Treatise
Part I
I'll concede that turkey is the star of Thanksgiving, but not without pointing out that like most stars, they can be fickle and temperamental if not treated just so. In fact they're so pesky that Butterball has a turkey talk line staffed by "50 trained experts" to counsel people on dealing with these Thanksgiving prima donnas. Mashed potatoes on the other hand require just a few everyday ingredients and tools, and are straightforward to make. They're the epitome of rich comfort food. Just 5 Ingredients to Greatness The classic potato choice for mashers are russet potatoes (think - "baked potato") because of their high starch content. Red potatoes have thin skins, less starch and are "waxier", which means they don't fall apart when cooked like russets do, so they're better suited to roasting and putting into stews. That said, I think the reds are just fine for making mashed potatoes (we've been doing it the restaurant for 15 years) and with their thin skins, they don't need peeling (hence, "Red Skinned Mashers"). Factoring in their fine roasting qualities, they've become the only potato I buy for home (except when its steak night and Tricia wants a baked potato). Good mashed potatoes need wholesome dairy (read - fat) in the form of milk/cream and butter. I think pure cream is over the top rich (save it for the pumpkin pie), whole milk does the trick just fine, 2% is minimal and skim milk is no better than water. We don't buy whole milk in my house, but we do buy heavy cream, so I just boost my 2% with a (big) shot of cream. You could use the same idea if all you have is skim milk, the difference being, that instead of boosting the skim milk, you're diluting the cream (I mean really, what is the point of skim milk at all?) Besides the importance of a healthy fat content (yes I just said that), it's imperative to heat the milk; not boiling, but a definite "Ouch!" when you stick your finger in it; before adding it to the cooked potatoes because the starch granules need to be kept soft in order for them to absorb the milk and butter. Don't use cold milk, you'll significantly cool the starches and your mashers will be grainy and greasy. Likewise the butter should be soft or can even be thrown in with the milk while it's heating. By the way, there's no substitute for real butter. Margarine and "spreads" are simply wrong. (Okay, if you want to use them on a piece of toast, fine, because that is what they are engineered for, but they are not engineered for actual cooking. They're yucky.) Salt is another critical element for success, potatoes are bland in and of themselves and salt brings out their flavor as well as that of the milk and butter. Don't skimp on salt. How much salt you and yours like is a matter of taste. My method is to dump in the minimal amount right at the start, and then after all the milk/butter is mixed in, to taste the taters and add a little at a time (mixing between additions) until I can juuuuuust ......beginnnn...... to taste the salt. If you're not a regular cook, and you've been conditioned by our food police culture that dairy fat and salt are inherently bad, think about this: All the really memorable mashed potatoes you've ever had, and wish you could make yourself, are less a product of culinary skill and more a product of the correct ratio of fat and seasoning (salt). Besides, any hypothetical arterial damage will be eradicated by all the compliments you'll receive, which in turn will release your endorphins, which are natural antioxidants, blood thinners, intelligence boosters and skin firmers & glowifiers. Really. Black pepper is the final essential seasoning; its flavor and spice complement everything else you've got going on. I think a finer grind is better, I don't like biting into chunks of pepper, and fresh ground is far more flavorful / superior to pre-ground. A good optional and easy ingredient is (cooked) garlic, which adds a sweet, mild background flavor. Simply add some whole cloves to the pot of potatoes and cook and mash them together. In Part II, I'll cover "do's & don'ts", as well as, "tips & tricks", and perhaps even some "whys & wherefores" for making and enjoying great mashers (click here to view).
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