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Sit Means Sit of Palm Beach County presents
Pawsitively Amazing

February 2012  Thirty Eighth Edition

In This Issue
Burn Treatment
How to read a dog food label
Videos
About Your Trainer
Join Our Mailing List!
Recommended Vendors

Holistic Pet Cuisine
Simmons Veterinary Hospital
Floresta Animal Hospital
Frenchie's Pet Grooming
 Dear, Pet Enthusiast

Welcome to this edition of our electronic newsletter designed for dog lovers who might want some helpful tips on training.  This is also to help keep our Palm Beach clients informed on what's happening in our local area.

To manage your subscription to this newsletter just scroll over to the sign up section.  If you feel that your friends could use some information, or our services, then forward this to them.

Bob Burnell
Sit Means Sit of Palm Beach County
561-543-5583
RobertBurnell@sitmeanssit.com
www.palmbeach.sitmeanssit.com
 
Congratulation to my Petsaver Attendees
Pet Saver Class

We all had a great time and learned ALOT about Pet First Aid and CPR and had a great time while we were at it.

We have two more scheduled classes at this time.

May 19, 2012  Register Here


September 08, 2012  Register Here

Question for the Pet Owner- Does your Groomer, trainer or Pet Sitter know basic pet First Aid and CPR?  Wouldn't you feel better if they did?  Do you know these skills?


Burn Treatment- Dog First Aid 101

Dog first aid for burns is pretty much the same as the first aid you'd give yourself. There is one important difference, however. She can't tell you how badly she's been burned, where the burn is located, or how big an area the burn covers.

 

So the dog first aid for burns that you provide should be given to stabilize her so you can transport her to the vet or emergency animal clinic. Even if you think the burn is superficial, let the trained professional make the final diagnosis and treatment decisions.

 

Superficial Burns

Do not apply butter, grease, fat or ointments to her burns. No burn cream should be applied as the dog could lick it. 

They'll keep the heat in the skin, extending the burn deeper into the tissues, or over a greater area.

Flush or immerse the burn area with cool (not cold) or lukewarm water as soon as possible.

The lower temperature of the water will draw the heat from the burn, preventing damage to deeper tissues.

Dry the area by gently patting it with a soft towel or cloth. Do not rub it dry. Then cover the burn with a moist bandage (a sterile gauze pad or a clean cloth will work fine).

Contact your vet for instructions before leaving for the clinic.

 

Deep Burns

You'll need to cool the burn as quickly as possible. At the same time, you'll need to keep your dog as warm as possible (if she's in shock, her body temperature will start to drop, especially in the extremities).

Soak a towel or cloth (a clean one, unless you have absolutely nothing else to use) with clean cool water and apply it to the burn(s) as quickly as you can. Keep the burn well soaked until you have reached the clinic.

 

Chemical Burns

If your dog has been burned by some sort of chemical, wash it with water and continue rinsing it with large amounts of water. Read the warnings on the label to determine if there is an antidote to the burn that you can apply to her skin. Keep her from chewing at the affected skin. Transport her to the vet as soon and as quickly as possible.

 

Medications 

Do not give any medications (including pain relievers) to your dog without first consulting your vet or the clinic staff. Provide only the dog first aid for burns as discussed above, unless your vet gives you specific directions to medicate her.


The best treatment for your dog's burns will always come from your vet. Get your dog to the clinic as quickly as possible. Use dog first aid only to stabilize her and improve her chance for survival before you transport her to the clinic. 

 

 

 

 

Dog Food Labels-  Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith

A.Reading your pet food label is one of the best ways to determine the quality of the food you are feeding. The ingredients and the guaranteed analysis (amounts of protein, fat, fiber, and other nutrients) are included on the food label. In addition to providing information about the amount and quality of protein and fat, the label will also provide the ingredients and general feeding guidelines.

A few other things to consider are the price. Calculate out the price per pound or the price per day. Almost always, dry food is more economical, and the larger the bag the lower the price per pound. Many times, a 40-pound bag is less than half as much per pound than an equivalent 5-pound bag. Remember that with lower quality foods you feed more and it may not always be cheaper. Check the ingredients, they will tell the real story. Most pets do not need specialty foods, just quality food. By understanding this article and looking at a few pet food labels you will be able to find the best food for your dog.

 

Converting dry matter basis

This can be the hard part. All pet foods have different levels of moisture. Canned foods can have up to 80% moisture whereas, some dry foods can have as little as 6%. This is important for 2 reasons. The first is that the food is priced by the pound, and when you buy dog food that is 80% water you get 20% food and the rest is water. So the amount of food your pet consumes is small and expensive. The other reason for understanding percent moisture is to help you compare crude protein and fat between brands and between canned and dry. The listings on the label are for the food as it is fed, not as it would be on a dry matter basis. So without converting both brands of food to a dry matter basis you will not be able to compare them accurately. Fortunately, the conversion is not that complicated.

 

If a dry dog food has 10% moisture we know that it has 90% dry matter. So we look at the label and check the protein level that reads 20%. Next, we divide the 20 percent protein by the 90% dry matter and we get 22%, which is the amount of protein on a dry matter basis. Does this make sense so far? Good. Now let us compare this to canned food that has 80% moisture. We know that with 80% moisture we have 20% dry matter. The label shows 5% protein. So we take the 5% and divide it by 20% and we get 25% protein on a dry matter basis. So the canned food has more protein per pound on a dry matter basis after all the water is taken out. We can do the same for fat, fiber, etc.

 

Guaranteed analysis    
The guaranteed analysis on the information panel of the dog food label lists the minimum levels of crude protein and fat and the maximum levels of fiber and water. The protein and fat are listed as crude sources and not as digestible sources. The digestibility of protein and fat can vary widely depending on their sources. The list of ingredients should be examined closely to determine how digestible the sources are (see articles on protein and fat for more explanation). The other factor in determining actual protein and fat percentages is the amount of moisture present in the food as discussed earlier. While the guaranteed analysis is a start in understanding the quality of the food, be very careful about relying on it too much. A pet food manufacturer made a mock product that had a guaranteed analysis of 10% protein, 6.5% fat, 2.4% fiber, and 68% moisture, similar to what you see on many canned pet food labels. The only problem, was that the ingredients were old leather work boots, used motor oil, crushed coal, and water!

Ingredient list     All pet foods must list the ingredients present in the food. The ingredients must be listed in order of weight. This is one of the best ways to determine the quality of the food. With a little knowledge of the ingredients, you can choose a food that is highly digestible and free of unwanted products. Be careful of one tactic used by manufacturers to disguise less desirable ingredients. Breaking an ingredient into several different smaller ingredients and listing them individually is used to lower these undesirable ingredients farther down the ingredient list. For example, a product list could contain chicken, ground corn, corn gluten, ground wheat, corn bran, wheat flour, wheat middling, etc. If we were to group all of the corn ingredients as one, they would probably far out-weigh the amount of chicken, and wheat. As a consumer, you must read all of the ingredients carefully including the ingredients at the end, to know the type of preservatives and colorings that are used. I have listed a few of the more common ingredients and their definitions.

 

Meat: Meat is the clean flesh of slaughtered animals (chicken, cattle, lamb, turkey, etc.). The flesh can include striated skeletal muscle, tongue, diaphragm, heart, esophagus, overlying fat and the skin, sinew, nerves and blood vessels normally found with that flesh.

 

Meat By-products: Meat by-products are clean parts of slaughtered animals, not including meat. These include lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, liver, blood, bone, some fatty tissue, and stomach and intestines freed of their contents. It does not include hair, horns, teeth, or hooves.

 

Poultry By-products: Poultry by-products are clean parts of slaughtered poultry such as heads, feet, and internal organs (like heart, lungs, liver, kidneys, and intestines). It does not contain feathers.

 

Fish Meal: Fish meal is the clean ground tissue of undecomposed whole fish or fish cuttings, with or without the oil extracted.

 

Ground Corn: Ground corn is the entire corn kernel ground or chopped.

 

Corn Gluten Meal: Corn gluten meal is the by-product after the manufacture of corn syrup or starch, and is the dried residue after the removal of the bran, germ, and starch.

 

Brewers Rice: Brewers rice is the small fragments of rice kernels that have been separated from larger kernels of milled rice.

 

Brown Rice: Brown rice is the unpolished rice left over after the kernels have been removed.

 

Soybean Meal: Soybean meal is a by-product of the production of soybean oil.

 

BHA: BHA is butylated hydroxyanisole, a fat preservative.

 

Ethoxyquin: Ethoxyquin is a chemical preservative that is used to prevent spoilage in dog food.

 

Tocopherols: Tocopherols (e.g., vitamin E) are naturally occurring compounds used as natural preservatives.

 

The AAFCO standards

'AAFCO' stands for the Association of American Feed Control Officials. The AAFCO develops guidelines for the production, labeling, and sale of animal foods. These are called the AAFCO standards. AAFCO has developed two standards which pet foods should meet. Pet foods which meet the AAFCO's requirements will include one of two statements on their label.

The first standard states ''...is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for...'. This means the food was tested in the laboratory and was found to have the recommended amounts of protein, fat, etc. But as mentioned above, the combination of shoe leather, used motor oil, and coal would meet this standard.

 

The second standard states something like 'Animal-feeding tests using AAFCO's procedures substantiate that this product provides complete and balanced nutrition for...'. For a pet food to be able to carry this label, it had to be tested on a population of animals and shown to provide adequate nutrition. But even with this statement, there are problems with its interpretation. If one particular product in a manufacturer's line was tested and found to meet this standard, the company is allowed to include this same statement on other products in the same 'family' which provide equal or greater concentrations of all the nutrients. So even if the pet food carries this AAFCO food trial statement on its label, you can not be sure that specific product was actually tested in a food trial. In addition, the food is tested in adult dogs for 6 months and in puppies for 10 weeks. This may not be an adequate amount of time to determine if deficiencies or other long term effects may occur after feeding the product a year or more. Despite these problems with the interpretation of this AAFCO food trial statement, having the statement on a pet food label at least shows the company has made some attempt to develop a good food.

 

Feeding instructions

Feeding instructions or guidelines should be included on every bag and can of dog food. These guidelines give the recommended amount to be fed based on growth level and weight. These are very rough guidelines. Every animal has a different level of activity, metabolism, and ambient environmental temperature. In addition, breed, age, and other environmental stresses all impact daily requirements. Guidelines should be used as rough starting points. If your dog is thin or hungry, feed more often and in greater quantity. If your pet is overweight or obese, feed less.

 

Summary

What is the best dog food on the market? There is no one best food for all dogs. The very fact that there are so many types and brands on the market shows that there are hundreds of options and opinions. Some dogs need higher fat and protein than others; some prefer canned over dry. Feed what is appropriate for your pet: dogs need dog food, and puppies need puppy food. Do not switch brands every month, but do not be afraid to switch brands and find one that your pet does well on. Use the guaranteed analysis, ingredients listings and feeding guidelines to help guide your decision.

   



 





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About Your Trainer
Bob grew up on Long Island, New York and upon graduation from High School spent four years serving this country in the U.S. Army.  Bob graduated from Hofstra University Summa Cum Laude with a Bachelors Degree in Business and earned several academic achievement awards.  Bob spent several years as an Operations Executive for a major retailer until he joined the N.Y.P.D.  Bob graduated #1 in his class from the police academy, earning the highest academic achievement award.  Bob is currently a full time Police officer.  Bob was a K9 Handler for 5 years with his partner Sabre.  Bob has certifications in dog training through The Animal Behavior College and The No Limitations School for Remote Collar Training.  Bob has worked with some of the most influential dog trainers.  Bob has studied under Brian Kilcommons (noted trainer and author) and Fred Hassen (founder and creator of Sit Means Sit). Bob has over 10 years of experience in training dogs and receives a real sense of accomplishment when he witnesses the success his clients have with our program.  Bob is a Certified Master Instructor for Pet CPR and First Aid through PetTech. 
 

                                                                          
Thank you for allowing us the opportunity to work with your family.  We appreciate everyone of our clients and value the relationship that we have with you.  The highest compliment that you can give us, is the referral of your family and friends.  Remember, we are never too busy for your referrals.  If you know someone that would benefit from our services or that might enjoy what we do, please forward this newsletter to them.  We are always looking to improve our service.  If you have any comments or suggestions, please send them to us.  We are always looking for testimonials from our clients so that we can show others how our training has helped you.


Please feel free to visit my Training Blog to obtain additional information and view some more great videos.  Missed an earlier edition of this newsletter?  Go to my blog and view past editions that are archived at this location.
 
Sincerely,
 
Robert Burnell
Sit Means Sit of Palm Beach County
Certified Master Pet Tech Instructor #1456
561-543-5583
robertburnell@sitmeanssit.com
www.palmbeach.sitmeanssit.com



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