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Mountain Matters
Greetings!
Welcome to an occasional newsletter from West Coast Mountain Guides, highlighting news, views and opportunities for mountain adventures. This newsletter is being sent to anyone who has contacted me asking for advise on courses. mountain guiding or mountain matters over recent years. Please feel free to unsubscribe if you wish and the link for that can be found at the foot of this newsletter. However, I do hope that the content will prove interesting and encourage you to continue to look out for the West Coast Mountain Guides news. As a keen photographer I hope to inspire you with some good images. Many more photos and stories can be found at the West Coast Mountain Guides Blog
Should you have any questions, please feel free to get in touch via email and I will include your queries and hopefully some sensible answers in future newsletters.
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NamasteJust back from the Langtang Valley in Nepal, where I was trekking with friends. Our trip was greatly enhanced by some very good organisation from Himalayan Guides Nepal

Kyangjin Gompa. Day three of our trek. More details and images at West Coast Mountain Guides Blog |
Mountain courses as a Christmas Gift
 Need inspiration for a novel
Christmas gift. Check out all of our courses. West Coast Mountain
Guides often receive enquiries for this type of 'pressie' and can make
up some special vouchers to behanded out on the day, either as a birthday surprise or Christmas present.We even include a signed copy of Winter Climbs to Ben Nevis and Glen Coe for free.
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The Ten Commandments of boot buying

Boots.....ahhh the black art of boots. So many experts ready to give you their unrivalled knowledge. So many retailers waiting to get rid of their old stock on the unsuspecting wannabe mountaineer. At the moment the market for outdoor boots is overloaded with choices and manufacturers. In my youth the choice was simple - go down to the Army and Navy Store get the boots you could afford and buy two pairs of VERY thick socks (colour choice of red or blue!)to pad them out. Put them on and sit with them in a bucket of water for about an hour then let them dry on your feet. Sorted.
 I know the 'experts' will pick holes in this article but this is not for their benefit anyway. I have tried to keep this as simple as possible and it does reflect my prejudice but here goes - the ten commandments of boot buying
1. Fit,fit,fit.fit,fit fit..........fit. No matter how expensive or how cheap. Regardless of the boot being voted best buy in every magazine on the planet- if they don't fit they will not work for you..full stop!!! So the first rule of boots is to get them from a specialist shop. How do you know what a specialist shop is? Ask two questions. Firstly ask if they do half sizes and if the answer is 'No' then do not bother with the second question. The second question is - do you use a Brannock device - this is a standard foot measuring device. To get the right fit the shop must be able to answer both questions. If they can't then find one that can.
 2. When in the shop try on at least three different manufacturers boots. All boots fit differently and all manufacturers have their own view on getting the best fit. See commandment 1. above if the shop does not have sufficient choice.
3. Do NOT test the fit of the boot by sticking your finger down the back as this is a complete waste of time and tells you bugger all apart from the fact that your finger is in the back of the boot. The shop you are in will have an incline board "small ramp". If it hasn't you are in the wrong shop... again. Lace the boots up, walk up the ramp, turn round facing downhill and JUMP!!!!! several times (and don't fart around - JUMP!!). If a boot fits correctly the end of your toes will not be taking l the pressure and should still be capable of wiggling around. This is a test that you MUST make sure the boot passes.
 4. This is where I will get into trouble - Only buy boots manufactured in the makers own factory. Boots contracted for manufacture in the far east are just not as good..in my opinion. Quality does not come cheap nor is it made in bulk in a factory in China.
 5. Socks are just as important in the overall fit system so make sure the shop has a good sock box to try different combinations.
6. Goretex or not Goretex - right!!- the truth is that the fit of the boot is far more important than the type of lining if you follow rule 4. I have never known anyone get blisters due to the lining of their boot but I have sure as hell seen plenty because the boot does not fit correctly.
7. Buy a boot that is suitable for the purpose you want it to perform. Now here is where a can of worms drops into my lap. If you are reading this article then it is fair to assume that you have the Scottish Mountains in mind. You will therefore need a solid stable boot suitable for walking - summer or winter the same boot is suitable known as a B1 type boot. Or you are thinking of climbing with ropes and harnesses known as a B2 type boot. The difference with modern boots is difficult to identify and the easiest way is to look at the heel and if it has a ledge for a crampon binding then it's a B2. There are also B3 type boots but to be honest if you are capable of the type of climbing this boot is used for then you will have the knowledge to go with it!
 8. Weight - of the boots that is. There are some fantastically light technical boots available these days and there are some bomb proof leather classics available as well. The choice is yours as they are all capable of doing the job. Light weight is an advantage apart from accepting that you are foregoing longer term durability.
 9. It's up to you and bargains are available if you buy on line BUT getting the right fit is never easy so be very prepared to fork out lots of money on postage. This is one purchase that visiting a good retailer will pay dividends.
 10. The tenth commandment - thou shalt not covert thy neighbours boots. Despite what they say about being great and despite them insisting you should also get a pair do not follow someone's advice which is based purely on what boots they have. Unless they are your identical twin their feet will be a different shape so what fits them will probably not fit you. So there you have it..easy..find a good shop... tell them what you want the boot to do...try some on..buy the best fit.
Many thanks to Steve Barker for this article. Check out his shop at:
Barkers of Ringwood
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Got a Question?Don't b e shy, if you have a question about courses or kit, please feel free to get in touch and I''ll do my best to try and offer an answer. I'm also happy to post informative mountain knowledge from those who read this newsletter. |
Planning for Winter Now is the time to consider planning ahead for a winter visit to the mountains. All levels are catered for. Ben Nevis and Glen Coe are the most popular locations in the UK for winter activities. Have a think about it, plan ahead and check out Winter Programme
The first winter snows are now with us on the Scottish hills.

Winter Climbing on Aonach Mor

Winter Climbing on Ben Nevis - Point Five Gully

Winter Ridge Climbing on Ledge Route - Ben Nevis
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Alpine Trips - Intro and Mt Blanc- 2010
This is possibly the most popular alpine course we run and will definitely appear on the programme for next year over the period 7/13th August, with a Mt Blanc extension following.
Many folk plan well ahead for their holidays, so please consider West Coast Mountain Guides for next summer in the Alps.
Previous snow and ice is preferred but not essential, as this can be taught
on the course. Just make sure you are fit and enthusiastic enough to
handle six days of high alpine activity. If you wish to attempt Mt Blanc, add another two or three days.
Booking early for all alpine courses is recommended. Mt Blanc from the Aiguilles Rouge, above the Chamonix valley.
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Accommodation in Fort William Check out our accommodation web site if you are looking for somewhere to stay. We specialise in looking after outdoor folk and have good self-catering facilities, plus efficient drying rooms on site. We also have a bouldering wall with over sixty problems of all grades and guests receive a discount on the wall.
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FAQ
Brief details of frequently asked questions can be found at FAQ
Sponsors - Helpful Retailers - Good Gear
An important area of an outdoor instructor/guides work is keeping up to date with equipment in order to be able to answer a wide range of questions about mountaineering kit. In the ever changing world of equipment this is difficult and that is where some good outdoor manufacturers and retailers come in. There are many and varied outdoor shops and I cannot hope to know all of them. However a few come to mind as being very helpful to our mountain visitors over the years. Some clients have driven many miles of a weekend to get good sound advice and here is a small selection.
Paramo Manufacturers of the best shell clothing I have ever used in 40 years of mountaineering.
Barkers of Ringwood For anyone living in southern England Steve Barker will give them good sound advice, especially on footwear
Ardblair Mountain Sports In particular for AKU footwear which were recommended to me by Steve Barker. If any of you have seen my awkward feet you will know that to find a comfortable pair of boots is not easy for me. The AKU Spider and Spider Lights are very light, warm and comfortable. The Spider is very good for the Alps in my opinion.
Any good pair of boots will be enhanced by proper insoles and I'm convinced that Superfeet Footbeds really help. Go for the custom fit insoles. They may be expensive, but are a good investment towards comfort and stabilisation of the whole body frame.
Needlesports will be well known to anyone visiting the Lake District. Once again sound advice from passionate outdoor folk.
914 Outdoor is worth a visit for anyone on their way to the Isle of Skye, especially as the view towards Eilean Donan Castle in one direction and the Black Cuillin to the west is stunning. Friendly advice and a chance to pick up some last minute kit.
Cioch-Direct on the Isle of Skye made to measure Paramo outdoor clothing is very close to where Norman Collie and John Mackenzie are laid to rest. There is also a good spot over the road for tea and scones.
Mac Mountaineering If you land up in Inverness and prefer an old style independent shop instead of the larger apartment store layout.
Mountain Spirit A very good place for getting your Superfeet, custom-fit insoles sorted by Rob, the very knowledgeable and friendly owner, in the heart of the Cairngorm National Park
Freetime for online or when passing through Carlisle.
Aiguille Equipment are my first choice for rucsacs. No fancy straps. Just simple, comfortable and hard-wearing. Currently I'm using the Zenith for both Scotland and the Alps.
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Alan Kimber, Director of West Coast Mountain Guides is a member of these associations and licenced to offer mountain activities with AALA. Forty years of mountain experience backs up these qualifications.
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