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About Smoke Signals
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|  Smoke Signals is the free email newsletter from the AmazingRibs.com Barbecue Whisperer & Hedonism Evangelist, Meathead Goldwyn. I use it to tell folks about new stuff on the site and whatever else might interest you. If you like my website, please click here to . And remember: No rules in the bedroom or dining room! |
Best New Discoveries Of The Year
| |  Monday is Cyber Monday and there are big deals online. Below are some of the kewl new books, tools, toys, and even beef that I have discovered in 2011 that will make fine holiday gifts. All of them have been awarded the AmazingRibs.com Best In BBQ Award.
Some of these gifts, but not all, are available on Amazon. If you click a link on my site or in this newsletter that is connected to Amazon (like this one) and then you purchase something from them, anything, even a TV or a toothbrush, they pay me a small finder's fee. The fee they pay has no impact on your price. This is a major source of my income and it helps me deliver my website to you for free. Amazon has great deals and often shipping is free, so if you have benefitted from AmazingRibs.com, Cyber Monday would be a good day to say "Thanks"!
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Best New Books
| Weber's Time to Grill by Jamie Purviance
Sunset, 2011, 300 pages, paperback, 200 plus recipes, superb color photos for most.
 Chef Jamie Purviance has another winner in his series of books for Weber. This one has the 200 plus recipes divided into two categories, "Easy" and "Adventurous", pretty much 50/50, and you don't need a Weber to cook them. They are all spectacularly photographed by Tim Turner.
Everything is neatly organized from rubs to marinades to appetizers to desserts (yes grilled desserts) with color coded sections, icons of fish and pigs, etc., and flaps on both front and back covers to bookmark pages. In addition, there are several useful references to cooking temps and times, and a great section called "prep school" with step by step photos of how to cut up onions and peppers, devein shrimp, butterflying a chicken, and more.
The Art of Beef Cutting: A Meat Professional's Guide to Butchering and Merchandising by Kari Underly
Wiley, 2011, 232 pages, no recipes, spiral bound hardback, numerous color photos.
 The best teachers can address the novice and still educate the expert, and that is exactly what Kari Underly does in this fine guide. Aimed at protein pros, this book belongs on the shelves of any serious carnivore.
Underly is a third generation butcher and consultant to numerous merchants, universities, chefs, farmers, and trade associations, among them the National Cattlemen's Beef Association.
This is the book that will settle those barroom arguments such as "what is the difference between a T-bone and a porterhouse?" Answer: Both have two muscles, the toploin, and the tenderloin, and on the porterhouse, the tenderloin must be at least 1.25" diameter. If the tenderloin is smaller, it is a T-bone.
Worth the price of admission for the beautiful carefully retouched photographs of the different bovine cuts, and step by step pix of how they are carved out of the larger primals. The invisible retouching helps the reader clearly understand the different muscles and subsections.
There is a lot of inside baseball talk here aimed at chefs and butchers, including a chapter called "Cutting for Profit" where you can see how a butcher can calculate the resale price and profit margin of a large hunk. There is even a complete table of all the professional meat cutter's product names and descriptions with the names of the component muscles. This may seem superfluous for a backard cook, but this is knowledge that can help keep you from being fooled when cash is at stake when you are buying steak. The sections on knives, sharpening, safety, and cutting techniques are unique and useful to all.
Spiral bound so it lays flat, there are no recipes, just some generic cooking tips, but this is not a cookbook, it is a buyer's guide fo buyers of all sort.
The Cook and the Butcher: Juicy Recipes, Butcher's Wisdom, and Expert Tips by Brigit Binns
Weldonowen for Williams Sonoma, 2011, 223 pages, more than 100 recipes, many beautiful color photos of the dishes.
 Four chapters: Beef, Pork, Lamb, Veal. A lifetime of incredible recipes for cooks who are bored with the same old same old.
Brigit Binns is simply amazing. She is the author of more than two dozen cookbooks, many of them for Williams-Sonoma, including this one. She knows so much and is so inventive.
Binns shares more than 100 recipes and, on almost every page, weaves through the book tips and quotes from butchers across the nation. An example from Frank Castrogiovanni of Ottomanelli Brothers in NYC "Select a flank steak that is short and thick with some of the white fat remaining. The longer flank steaks are usually chewy". I didn't know that!
The recipes are a mix of indoor and outdoor, and they are beautifully photographed by Kate Sears. What stands out is the creativity. For example, Steak Au Poivre. As Binns explains "This classic French preparation is a luxurious combination: the cooked meat, as tender as butter, is finished with a bracingly piquant and creamy pan sauce. While some recipes call for the peppercorns to be ground and pressed into the meat before cooking, I prefer to season the steaks simply, with a sprinkling of salt and black pepper, and to feature the green peppercorns in the easy pan sauce." Well every recipe I've ever seen says to coarsely crack the peppercorns, smask them into the meat, and then panfry. The problem is that you end up with serious pepper overload, you can barely taste the meat, and it is almost impossible to get a good flavorful sear with all those huge chunks of pepper holding he meat above the hot pan surface. That's one reason I quit making this dish. Until now. Binns' approach, which boils green peppercorns and uses them in a pan sauce of shallots, butter, Cognac, heavy cream, and beef consommé, is so much more sensible and elegant. Just like the lady herself.
Then, on the next page, she turns Philly Cheese Steaks from caterpillar to butterfly. Other recipes include Oven Browned Spareribs with Lemongrass, Honey, And Soy; Roasted Flank Steak Stuffed with Olives and Pecorino; Maple Brined Pork Chops With Pear Chutney; Pork Shoulder Braised in Milk; Double Cut Lamb Chops Stuffed with Prunes and Pine Nuts; Grilled Veal Chops with mustard Tarragon Aioli. Among the salads, sides, and toppings are Mango Salsa; Sun Dried Tomato Jam; Lime, Cabbage, and Jalapeño Slaw; and Onion Rings.
The menu sounds like a 4-star restaurant, but the recipes are easily managed with the help of a good butcher, a well stocked kitchen, and the guidance of a great cook, like Binns.
Serious Barbecue: Smoke, Char, Baste, and Brush Your Way to Great Outdoor Cooking by Adam Perry Lang
Hyperion, 2009, 400 pages, hardcover, many recipes, many color photos.
 OK, this one came out a couple of years ago, but I just discovered it in 2011, and I need to call your attention to it. Adam Perry Lang is a serious classically trained chef, a veteran of Le Cirque and Daniel, and, as the proprietor of Daisy May's BBQ USA in NYC and as a competitor on the barbecue circuit, he knows a lot about barbecue. The recipes are creative, insightful, and beautifully photographed.
Catching Fire, How Cooking Made Us Human by Richard Wrangham
Basic Books, 2010, 309 pages, no recipes, no photos
 Wrangham is a professor of biological anthropology at Harvard, Curator of Primate Behaviorial Biology at the Peabody Museum, and Director of the Kibale Chimpanzee Project in Uganda. He does a remarkable job of telling the fascinating tale, and backing it up with ample research data, of how human evolution was drastically influenced by the capture of fire and the invention of cooking.
He describes in detail how cooking changes the chemistry of food and how that made it easier for proto humans to chew, digest, and extract energy and nutrients, and how that impacted their body shape, lips, jaws, teeth, intestines, and most importantly, brain size, allowing the emergence of Homo erectus, our direct ancestors. He also explains how cooking was largely responsible for the differentiating of male and female roles in early societies.
Despite his impressive credentials, there is nothing academic or textbook about this fascinating read. Witness: "Humans are adapted to eating cooked food in the same essential way as cows ar adapted to eating grass, or fleas to sucking blood, or any other animal to its signature diet. We humans are the cooking apes, the creatures of the flame."
Without being argumentative, Wrangham uses data from the raw food movement and related research to build an irrefutable case for the role of meat in past and present diets.
Wrangham has added a rich new layer to the story of human evolution, an ah ha moment, and a particularly satisfying insight for thos of us who love to hang out at the grill.
This innovative lucid account demonstrates that, not only did humans create cuisine, cuisine created humans.
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Stocking Stuffer: My New Temperature Guide Magnet
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Hopefully by now you have found my handy meat temperature guide with both USDA recommended temperatures for all your favorite meats as well as the temperatures recommended by chefs (they are not always the same). Now you can order it on an 8.5" x 5.5" magnetic card that can be attached to your fridge or your grill (magnets won't stick to some types of stainless steel)! Click here to see more of of the information packed into this handy guide. Click here to order it.
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Treats, Tools & Toys
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Strube Ranch Wagyu Beef
 Wagyu cattle are the same breed that are used for the famous, fabulous, and fabulously expensive Kobe Beef from Japan. Strube Ranch in Texas has a herd of them, and the meat is simply incomparable, shot through with thin whisps of buttery marbling. BigPoppaSmokers.com has dibs on their best ribeyes, striploins, sirloins, and briskets. Do not die without having tasted Strube Wagyu. Go for the ribeye or striploin. And if you're after the big bux in a competition, beware, the guy next to you is using Strube brisket.
Maverick Wireless ET-732 Wireless Barbecue Thermometer
 Two thermometers in one, this very cool tool was introduced in January 2011. It replaces and significantly improves upon the earlier ET-73.
There are two probes and cables, one to insert into the meat and leave it in, and another to leave in your oven/grill/smoker. Both probes plug into a transmitter module that sends temperatures to a receiver module that you can take into the living room with you and place on the coffee table next to the beer and chips. That's right, with the Maverick you can monitor your grill and your meat while you watch the game. You can also set the timer to remind you when to start the side dishes or wake you up if the game is really boring, or set it for a target temp, and an alarm will let you know when the meat is ready.
Alas, the meat probe is not instant read and it is pretty thick. It can take up to a minute to correctly read the temp in a piece of meat, so you will still want something like one of the Thermapens for checking meat temp on steaks, chicken, fish, etc.
The new model is supposed to have a greater range than the old one, up to 300', but that's only through clear air. When I move indoors, the range is much less, and your distance will vary depending on what your walls are made from and how many electronic devices you have running. The new probes also can withstand more heat than the old model, up to 572°F, far better than the 410°F of the previous model. You can set it to read either Fahrenheit or Celcius.
There is a backlight so it can be viewed in the dark, both the sender and receiver have stands for easy viewing, and it also comes with a nifty clip that holds the oven probe just above the grill grates so it isn't misled by the tip touching metal. You can easily pop open the battery compartment of the receiver, but the sender's battery cover screws down over an o-ring to make it more water resistent so you will need a tiny Phillips head jeweler's screwdriver to insert the batteries, they did not include one. Many eyeglasses screwdrivers will work.
They solved the startup sequence issue: You can now switch on either unit in whatever order you want and if they don't sync up, there's a "resync" button on the back of the sender. This comes in handy if you wander out of range and then back in. There is now an alarm that tells you if you've gotten out of range of the sender, and there is a synch button in case the two units lose their link. And finally, you no longer have to remove the stand and battery cover to switch on the transmitter! The interface is fairly easy, but it's no iPhone. Keep the (much improved) manual handy in case you can't remember which button to push.
Maverick has good tech support. When my old receiver began to malfunction, they told me the problem sounded like a bad backlight and told me to ship it back for a replacement. No question about when I bought it. I never identified myself as a writer, so I am confident I got the same treatment as you would. Cables sometimes fray or malfunction, and the manual cautions you not to submerse them and the probes, so you should consider buying a spare set.
It is important to know that the food probe is designed for roasts and thick pieces of meat. You may not get accurate readings on thin steaks, chops, and other thin cuts. For those, I prefer the faster, thinner thermocouples.
Smoke EZ Grill Conversion Kit
 Here's a very clever way to turn your inexpensive Weber Kettle, either the 22.5" or the 26.75" model, into a first rate smoker as good or better than the popular Weber Smokey Mountain. And it really works. And it's really inexpensive. The Smoke EZ kit contains a large powder coated 20 gauge steel ring that sits between the lid of your kettle and the bottom. Powder coating is pretty durable and should protect the ring from rust for years. Inside the ring are brackets to hold two standard round Weber grates or if you prefer, their nifty hangar rack that allows you to hang whole fish, ribs, sausage, hams or food up to 22" long.
In the bottom half of the Kettle you place a fire ring and pour the coals around it in a C shape. You light a few coal on one end with a FireStarter Cube and the C burns slowly and gently around the ring for a well managed long low and slow cooks that last many hours at steady temps. Then there is a water bowl/drip pan that you can set inside the ring to catch drips and add humidity to the environment.
Add this to a Weber One Touch Gold and in many ways it is better than the 22.5" Weber Smokey Mountain because the One Touch has an easy ash cleanout. The Smoke EZ has handles making removal of the center section easier than on the WSM. The fire ring allows greater fuel capacity, and although it lacks the side access door, that is actually an advantage since the Weber doors leak. This tighter unit makes it ideal for combining with one of the new electronic thermostat controllers like the PartyQ from BBQ Guru.
There are two models, one for the 22.5" standard Weber Kettle for $150 plus shipping, and one for the larger 26.75" Kettle for $250 plus shipping. I have only seen the small one, but my mind boggles thinking about the capacity of the larger one. Order direct from the manufacturer, Smoke EZ.
Charcoal Grate for Steaks for Weber Kettle
 Half the battle in making great thick steaks is getting the surface seared as dark as possible, but not blackened. Steakhouses have gas broilers that crank out up to 1000°F heat about 1" from the meat. My fancy Hasty Bake has a crank that lets me raise the charcoal to about 1" below the meat for the searing stage, but it's a bit pricey for a lot of folks.
It would be nice if I could raise the charcoal in my el-cheapo $89 Weber Kettle. So for years I've been telling folks to lift the bottom grate up on bricks. But secretly I've been wasting a small fortune buying grill grates that I hoped would fit just below the food grate on the Kettle. Well, I've finally found one. Old Smokey Grills has a product that uses a 22" wide grate. Well that's 1/2" narrower than the grate on the Weber Kettle, and sure enough, it fits under the Weber grate.
So here's how I use it. I slide it under the brackets that hold the top grate and angle it slightly. I start the coals in a chimney and pour them on 1 or 2 deep on the lower side. I put thick steaks above the other side where there are no coals, lid on, to slowly roast with indirect convection heat and pick up some smoke, cooking the interior slow and gently using the reverse sear method I preach. Then, when the interior of the meat hits 115 to 120°F, I slide them over the hot coals and scorch the surfaces with the lid off.
Frogmats
 Have you ever had a delicate piece of expensive Chilean Sea Bass stick to the grates and disintegrate when you try to lift it off, or try to grill small things and have them fall between the openings into the fire? Here's a great cheap solution: Frogmats, a sturdy wire mesh with a non-stick coating capable of resisting high heats, yet easy to clean. I use mine for jalapeno poppers, onion rings, potato slices, mushrooms, bacon, biscuits, and I've even used mine to wrap a meat loaf so I could crisp it on all sides. Watch for my smoked nuts recipes soon. Boy the frogmats came in handy for these test cooks. Frogmats come in a variety of sizes, even large enough for a whole hog. They cannot handle extreme heat or direct flame, however.
Stufz Stuffed Burger System
 Normally I am not interested in gimmicks, and I normally advocate against burger presses because they compress the meat too much. Loosly packed meat has more pockets for the juices to hang out in.
So when this piece of plastic arrived, I was pretty skeptical. I am no longer skeptical. It helps make a pretty good stuffed burger, and stuffed burgers can be very juicy and tasty, with the cheese on the inside, not on top. Or bacon, or peppers, or onions, or mushrooms, or or or.
Here's how it works, You take a ball of ground meat and drop it in the Stufz. You set the handle to one position, and it presses the meat into a disk. Then you adjust the handle and it presses a pocket in the center. Add your cheese or whatever, plop another ball of meat on top, adjust the handle again, and press again. You get beautifully formed thick burgers with a stuffing. Occasionally you need to do a little manual touchup to the top and bottom joins to prevent leaks, and for that matter, you could do the whole process by hand easily enough, but the gadget does make it a bit easier, and you get nice uniform pucks, helpful when you are timing a bunch-o-burgers. Having the cheese in the center helps prevent overcooking the patty while you get the exterior nice and dark. Bottom line, they taste great.
One word of caution: The center is molten and hot, so you need to warn everybody to be careful. But molten cheese is better than limp cheese lounging on top.
Working with it was a bit awkward at first, especially when my hands got meat on them, and if you're making a lot, it would be nice to have some help, say one person to make the meat balls, and another to run the press. I'm not sure how long the plastic will hold up, but if you're a cheeseburger burger fan, splurge on this.
iGrill Bluetooth Thermometer
 What a really cool tool! Easily the best I have discovered in 2011. With some caveats.
The iGrill is a thermometer with a probe that can be used for meat or oven/grill/smoker temp. Switch it on, and it sends a Bluetooth signal to an app on your iPhone, iPod Touch, or iPad so you can watch the game while the roast is cooking, cut the lawn, or take a nap because you can set it to beep when one of the probes hits a target temp or time. There is a jack for a second probe so it can measure both your meat and your cooker or two dishes at once.
The base unit, a little larger than a deck of cards, is available in white or black, and has a convenient way to wrap the probe's cable around its body and store the probe so the cable doesn't kink and break and you don't stab yourself, both issues I have had with other thermometers. It runs on two AA batteries (included) and has a built-in display so you don't need to pair it with an Apple device, but the white model I have is almost impossible to read in bright daylight. I suspect the black will be easier to read. The manufacturer clainms it works up to 200 feet, but actual distance will depend on the thickness and material in your walls.
It has a folding stand that doubles as a hook so you can hang the unit from the side table on your grill or a nearby hook. It will only go from 32 to 400°F (0 to 204°C), so you need to be careful that you don't put it in a really hot grill. I have tested it against a lab instrument in a smoker and it is pretty close to precise.
The body does not have any buttons that protrude, it has three touch sensitive hotspots, so it can survive a light drizzle, perhaps even rain.
There are two apps, Classic and Pro, and it would be nice if they combined them into one. I prefer the Pro because it has more features and because it traces a line on a chart as temps fluctuate. You use the iPhone/iPad/iPod Touch settings to turn on Bluetooth and pair with the iGrill. This went pretty easily on my iPad 1, but I have been unable to pair it with my iPhone 4S.
You can export the data to an email attachment in pdf or csv (spreadsheet) formats. The csv file has readings every two seconds, the pdf is not very helpful because it is a snapshot of only the reading at only one moment. I find the csv download very helpful in developing recipes and I am sure that competition teams could use this to help perfect their methods and timing. You can also set timers and countdown timers. Only one prob: If you switch aps to check the score in the game, the graph breaks while you were gone.
You can name your probes in the Pro, name the alarms, switch from C to F, and you can set timers to remind you to add charcoal or to put the beans on. You can select preset temps for meats, but I disagree with some of the numbers. Fortunately you can enter your own preferences (click this link for a better meat temperature guide).
The manual is built into the app and they send updates, but this is not much help if you don't have an Apple device. Apparently there was a software bug in early releases that forced a recall, but that seems to heve been fixed. They are promising an Android version in 2012.
BBQ Guru PartyQ
 With the introduction of the BBQ Guru in 2004, we entered the thermostatically controlled cooker era. Regardless of the weather outside, just set it and forget it has come to the back yard, just like in your kitchen. Originally expensive, more modestly rpiced models are appearing. They all are designed for charcoal and wood fired grills and smokers, but I predict thermostats for gassers cannot be far in the future. Every pellet smoker/grill has one and they are a joy to use.
They all work on a simple feedback principle. A thermometer in the cooking chamber tells a blower to turn on and feed more air to the fire when the temp drops below the target. It then tells the fan to turn off when the temp gets too high. Simple.
But the devil is in the details. You need a tight cooker so air doesn't leak in or out. Weber Kettles and Weber Smokey Mountains work well, as do most ceramic and kamado grills.
Introduced in October 2011, the PartyQ is a very clever inexpensive thermostat device made by BBQ Guru, the pioneering inventor of thermostat controllers for grills and smokers. Their high-end models are popular on the competition circuit, and I'm sure this one will catch on big with that crowd because it is simple and inexpensive. But it also belongs in your back yard.
You place the thermocouple thermometer probe into the cooking chamber and attach it to the cooking grates with its alligator clip. The other end is attached to a controller that you can set for whatever temp you want. The controller is attached to a small blower that turns on and off depending on the temp in the cooker. The PartyQ runs on four AA batteries. Its competitor, the iQue, needs to be plugged into a wall outlet.
The blower needs to go through a 1" hole in the grill below the charcoal gate. I had to drill a hole into my Weber Kettle. It fits into a hole in the bottom of a Weber Smokey Mountain without drilling, you just have to block off the other holes with aluminum foil or the heat resistant tape they include in the box. Their website lists a number of grills it fits. Many ceramic grills have ports built in for this type of device.
Mounting it is a cinch once the hole is located or drilled, then all you need to do is switch it on, set the target temp on the LCD readout, and place the probe near your meat. You want to make sure you have removed all the ash from the pit otherwise it can get into the fan and the fan may blow it all around and onto the food. Close the intake vents, but leave the exhaust vent open at least partially unless your grill is leaky, in which case you can close it. Set the temp you want in 1 degree increments (F or C), let it run for about 30 minutes to stabilize the temp, and you can put the meat on. You can read the actual temp with the LED. Once things are stabilized, you want to keep the lid on to keep excess oxygen from reaching the coals.
The PartyQ can be calibrated in case it ever veers from true. Just insert the probe in boiling water and push some buttons and it will lock in to boiling temp. It can also be set to read in F or C.
The only negatives: It is not water resistant, so if it is raining or snowing, you need to duct tape a plastic bag around it being careful not to block the fan. There is no backlight so you need a flashlight in the dark. You must keep the unit running so the fan keeps itself cool otherwise heat buildup could melt it. Leaving it run for long cooks will use up batteries, so rechargeables may be the way to go. You need to make sure the batteries don't die or your blower might melt and your pit could go out. Also, the installation instructions and manual look to be slapped together and could be better written, and it sure would be nice if they would make the type in the manual a little larger for old farts like Meathead. I actually needed a magnifying glass to read some of the instructions for the Setup Menu.
Best of all, the PartyQ sells for $129 plus $10 for special adapters for certain grills.
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Old Friends
| | Here are some products that have been around a while but are still sure to please.
GrillGrates Take You To The Infrared Zone
 GrillGrates are the best thing to happen to beef on a gas grill since salt and pepper. The base superheats, eliminates hot spots, and blocks flareups. This is the concept behind the expensive new infrared grills. A must for gas grills and they are also available for Weber Kettles, and Eggs. And for Cyber Monday they are offering free shipping and a free copy of Meathead's Meat Temperature Guide magnet.
The Smokenator: A Necessity For Weber Kettles
 If you have a Weber Kettle, you need the amazing Smokenator and Hovergrill. The Smokenator turns your grill into a first class smoker, and the Hovergrill can add capacity or be used to create steakhouse steaks.
ThermoWorks 6 Second Pocket Thermometer
 A good thermometer is why I never serve overcooked or undercooked food. This one has a very thin tip with a tiny thermocouple so it gives an accurate reading in just six seconds. I cannot recommend it more highly. It will improve your cooking overnight and pay for itself in a hurry. And it is inexpensive.
Thermoworks 2 Second ThermaPen
 This is the thermocouple thermometer you see all the cooks on TV using. I highly recommend it for anyone serious about cooking meat or baking bread properly. It reads meat temp in three seconds, is extremely accurate, has large easy-to-see numbers, and a long probe for getting into the center of a large hunk of meat like a ham. The thin probe will not open a gusher when you pull it out. It is on a pivot so it can reach into awkward places. The heat sensor is extremely small, so you know you are reading just where you put it. It is water resistent, reads from 58 to 572°F (-50° to 300°C), and switches between F and C.
Although it was designed to read food temps, it can even read air temp if you insert it through a hole in your grill or smoker, but it can take up to 30 seconds to give a good reading and you want to make sure you place it at the so the plastic body does not melt and the tip is near the food. It comes in a variety of colors.
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Fun Gifts for the Barbecue Fan
| |  Shop for the barbecue lover at the AmazingRibs.com Gift Shop or just drop in for a chuckle. There are more than 30 BBQ-themed designs, about 30 steak-themed designs, about 20 hotdog-themed designs, and more than 30 wine-themed designs. Order aprons, hats, shirts, sweatshirts, intimate wear, and other apparel for men, women, kids and pets, beer mugs, posters, and other tschotschkes. 
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Grills Smokers And More Goodies
| | I am constantly updating and adding new products to my huge Buyer's Guide including scores of grills and smokers. In it I review many more books, thermometers, accessories, and kitchen tools. If a big gift like a grill is on you shopping list, be sure to check here first.
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Help Keep AmazingRibs.com Free
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Thix Amazon Link Helps Me a Lot, Please Use it!
http://tinyurl.com/3rlglce
Just copy and paste this link into your "favorites" or "bookmarks" and use it to take you to Amazon. It will tell Amazon I sent you and you help keep me supplied with charcoal and meat!
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