 What's on in Rome for the month of April, 20010, plus this month's weekend getaway: Rome's Gardens. After the quiet of Easter week, when the kids were out of school and many people headed to the country, Rome gears up in April for its glorious spring. The city celebrates its birthday, the Natale di Rome, April 21, an astrological calculation that puts Rome's birth at 753 BC. Festivities include a "Week of Culture," during which entrance to all the city museums is free.
Log on to www.InRomeNow.com to stay updated as screenings and events are announced, with more than 100 web pages about Rome, updated every Friday.
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CLASSICAL MUSIC
 At the Parco della MusicaVia Coubertin (Flaminio) tel 892 982 www.listicket.itLeonidas Kavakos, violin with Enrico Pace, pianoA chance to hear this extraordinary violinist Sala Sinopoli, Friday, April 9, 8:30 pmSzymanowski: Sonata op. 9Prokofiev: Sonata n. 1 op. 80Dvořák: Four Romantic PiecesSchubert: Fantasia D 934Orchestra and Chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Ceciliaconducted by Yuri TemirkanovSala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, April 10, 6 pm; Monday, April 12, 9 pm; Tuesday, April 13, 7:30 pmHaydn: Symphony n. 101 "The Clock"Mozart: RequiemOrchestra dell'Accademia Nazionale di Santa Ceciliaconducted by Vladimir JurowskiSala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, April 17, 6 pm; Monday, April 19, 8:30 pm; Tuesday, April 20, 7:30 pm Zemlinsky: Una tragedia fiorentinaopera in concert formPuccini: Gianni Schicci Les Siècles conducted by François-Xavier Roth with piano soloist Vanessa Wagner Music by Thomas, Auber, Fauré and Rabaud Sala Sinopoli, Wednesday, April 21, 8:30 pm Radu Lupu in recitalSala Santa Cecilia, Friday, April 23, 8:30 pm Janáček: Nella nebbiaBeethoven: Sonata "Appassionata"Schubert: Sonata D 959 Orchestra dell'Accademia Nazionale di Santa Ceciliaconducted by Yuri Temirkanov, with violin soloist Gidon KremerSala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, April 24, 6 pm; Monday, April 26, 9 pm; Tuesday, April 27, 7:30 pmTchaikovsky: Violin ConcertoTchaikovsky: Symphony n. 5At the Aula MagnaPiazzale Aldo Moro (San Lorenzo) tel 06 49 91 www.greenticket.itSonia Ganazzi, mezzo soprano, in recital with Raffaele Coresi, pianoOne of the leading singers on the international stage offers a program of music by Rossini, Donizetti, Berlioz, Gounod and MassenetSaturday, April 10, 5:30 pmMaurizio Baglini, piano recitalMusic by Scarlatti, Chopin, LisztTuesday, April 13, 8:30 pmSoloists of the Mahler Chamber OrchestraPhillipp von Steinaecker, conductorMusic by Bach, Webern, MahlerSaturday, April 17, 5:30 pmHilliard Ensemble: Adieu mes amoursChansons and madrigals of the RenaissanceTuesday, April 20, 8:30 pm At the Auditorium della ConciliazioneVia della Conciliazione (near the Vatican) tel 899 5000 55 www.greenticket.itOrchestra Sinfonica di RomaFrancesco La Vecchia, conductingThursday, April 1, 8:30 pm; Friday, April 2, 8:30 pm Schubert: Symphony n. 8 in B minor D759 "Unfinished"Mascagni: Intermezzo from "Cavalleria Rusticana"Rossini: Overture from "Il Barbiere di Siviglia"Wagner: From "Tristan und Isolde", Prelude and death of IsoldeMartucci: Nocturne op. 70Verdi: Overture from "I Vespri Siciliani"Orchestra Sinfonica di RomaRui Massena, conducting with Anita Selvaggio, soprano soloistSunday, April 11, 5:30 pm; Monday, April 12, 8:30 pm Cimarosa: Overture from "Il Matrimonio Segreto"Mozart: Two concerto arias for soprano and orchestraSchubert: Symphony n. 1 in D major, D82Orchestra Sinfonica di RomaFrancesco La Vecchia, conducting with Vadim Brodski, violin soloistSunday, April 18, 5:30 pm; Monday, April 19, 8:30 pm Respighi: Poema autunnale, Concerto all'anticaRespighi: Vetrate di chiesaTchaikovsky: Romeo and Juilet Overture and FantasiaOrchestra Sinfonica di RomaMichael Zukernik, conductorSunday, April 25, 5:30 pm; Monday, April 26, 8:30 pmMozart: Overture from "Don Giovanni"Mozart: Symphony n. 38 in D major K504 "Prague"Dvorak: Symphony n. 8 in G major Orchestra Sinfonica di RomaFrancesco La Vecchia, conducting with Xu Zhong, piano soloistFriday, April 30, 8:30 pm; Sunday, May 2, 5:30 pmMascagni: Overture fom "Le Maschere"Artunian: Concerto in A flat major for trumpet and orchestraSchubert: Symphony in D major "The Great"Schubert: Concert n. 2 in B flat major op.19 for piano and orchestra
At the Teatro OlimpicoPiazza Gentila da Fabriano (Flaminio) tel 800 90 70 80 www.charta.itAndrea Lucchesini, piano recital Thursday, April 15, 9 pm Luciano Berio: Piano Sonata Lucian Berio: Six Encores Scarlatti: Five Sonatas Schubert: Improvisations Domenico Nordio,violin, with Mikhail Lidsky, piano An interesting program of music transcribed for violin by Kreisler, Respighi, Szymanowsky, Tartini. Paganini, Grieg and Dallapiccola Thursday, April 29, 9 pm POPULAR, JAZZ and WORLD MUSICSergio Cammariere "Carovane"A composer and pianist who combines popular music, jazz and Latin rhythms in his work to produce a highly original, sophisticated sound. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecilia, Tuesday, April 6, 9 pm€40-20 tel 892 982 www.listicket.itHank JonesThe legendary jazz pianist, still going strong at 91.Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi, Tuesday April 6, 9 pm€25 -20 tel 892 982 www.listicket.itTokio Hotel: Humanoid Tour Palalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport (Eur) Sunday, April 11 and Monday, April 12, 9 pm€48,30 to €40,25 tel 892 101 www.ticketone.itElisa in concertPalalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport (Eur)Friday, April 16, 9 pm € 69,00 to €
40,25 tel 892 101 www.ticketone.itLitfiba in concertPalalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport (Eur) Monday, April 19, 9 pm €46,00 to €36,80 www.ticketone.itFiorella MannoiaGrandTeatro, Viale di Tor di Quinto 69 (north Rome)Tuesday, April 20, 9 pm€45 to 25 www.greenticket.it |
OPERA, DANCE & THEATER
DivinamenteRoma Festival This series of events, which takes place in interesting locations
throughout the city. celebrates spirituality in all its manifestations, through dance, music and theater. Events are free unless otherwise noted, so get there early.
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Stellarum Opifice Omaggio a Suor Maria Celeste Galilei Marco Galileo's daughter, the fruit of an illicit liason, was born in 1600. At the age of thirteen she entered a convent, where she was to remain for the rest of her short life. This performance, freely based on the daughter's letters to her father, tells of the genuine bond between them. By Valeria Moretti, with Federica Bern; music by David Barittoni, set design by Giacomo De Caterini, lights by Nicolas Hünerwadel and Marco Carniti, video installation by Paolo Ferrari, directed by Francesco Scandale. Planetario e Museo Astronomico, Piazza Giovanni Agnelli, 10 (Eur) Thursday, April 1, 5:30 pm (English); 8 and 10 pm (Italian)
Ensemble di Micha Van Hoecke: Baccanti da Euripide Europides' classic story told through song, spoken word, dance and music. Based on a text by Chiara Muti, with Pamela Villoresi and l'Ensemble di Micha Van Hoecke, choreographer and director Micha Van Hoecke. Chiara Muti, daughter of famed conductor Riccardo Muti, is a well-known Italian television and film actress. Belgian dancer, choreographer, actor and director Micha van Hoecke, began his career with the Roland Petit company., and went on to work with Maurice Bejart. He founded his own company Mudra, in 1981. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi Friday, April 2, 8:45 pm
Amén Popular singer-songwriter Teresa De Sio calls her production Amén, "an expression of thanks for those who attempt to create heaven on earth". Teatro Valle, Via del Teatro Valle (near Piazza Navona) Saturday, April 3, 8:45 pm
Passion and Missa Luba Passion is a concerto for spoken voice and ensemble by Paolo Lepore with Silvia Budri Da Maren and the Filarmonica Mediterranea, conducted by Paolo Lepore. Missa Luba is a sacred mass with traditional Congolese music for soprano, mixed chorus and percussion arranged by Guido Haazn with Zara McFarlane. Santa Maria in Trastevere, Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere Sunday, April 4, Passion at 4:30 pm; Mass at 5:30 pm
Ahura Project: Sacred Sufi Music and Poetry of Rumi Ahura Project dedicates this performance to Rumi by putting his universal poetry to music, with original compositions by Iranian musician Mohammad Eghbal. Aranciera del Semenzaio di San Sisto, via Valle delle Camene, 11 (Villa Celimontana) Monday, April 5, 11 am
At the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma Piazza Beniamino Gigli (Esquilino) tel 06 48 16 02 55 www.charta.it
Tosca Puccini's opera, conducted by Fabrizio Maria Carminati, directed by Mauro Bolognini, with set design by Adolf Hohenstein. The first cast is extraordinary: Stevla Vassileva as Tosca (April 1, 3, 7, 9, 11); the incomprable tenor Marcello Giordani as Cavaradossi (April 1, 3, 7, 10) and Juan Pons as Scarpia (April 1, 7, 10). Thursday-Friday, April 1-2, 8:30 pm; Saturday, April 3, 6 pm; Tuesday.Wednesday, April 6-7, 8:30 pm; Thursday, April 8, 5 pm; Friday, April 9, 8:30 pm; Saturday, April 10, 6 pm; Sunday, April 11, 5 pm
Don Chisciotte A new production of the classic ballet, with music by Ludwig Minkus and choreography by Timur Gayziev, sets and costumes by Francesco Zito and Antonella Conte. Featuring guest soloists: Eleonora Abbagnato /Ekaterina Borchenko /Irma Nioradze and Tamas Nagy /Anton Korsakov in the leading roles. Thursday-Friday, April 22-23, 8:30 pm; Saturday, April 24, 6 pm; Tuesday-Friday, April 27-30, 8:30 pm; Sunday, May 2, 5 pm; Tuesday, May 4, 8:30 pm
At the Teatro Olimpico Piazza Gentile da Fabriano (Flaminio) tel 800 90 70 80www.vivaticket.it
"Inferno" Divina Commedia, cantica I Six dancer/acrobats, lights, music and special effects, in this multimedia interpretation of Dante. Angels and devils struggle for supremacy, as dancers are seemingly suspended in mid-air. Created by Emiliano Pellisari. Wednesday-Saturday, April 7-10, 9 pm; Sunday, April 11, 6 pm; Tuesday-Wednesday, April 13-14, 9 pm; Friday-Saturday, April 16-17, 9 pm; Sunday, April 18, 6 pm
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ART
Opening:
La Natura secondo De Chirico A broad overview of works by Giorgio de Chirico, articulated in seven gallery spaces, the paintings presented
offer an important analysis of the artist's principle formalistic and thematic
thoughts. The exhibition intends to underscore the rapport among de
Chirico's art, physics and natural philosophy. Palazzo Delle
Esposizioni Via Nazionale 194 Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday,
10 am - 8 pm, Friday-Saturday 10 am - 12:30 pm; April 8 through July 11
Mimmo
Jodice
During the 1960s, Mimmo Jodice was among the major
interpreters of the avant-garde and took a prominent position at the
forefront of the cultural debate that sanctioned the affirmation of
photography in contemporary art. Through
a selection of over 180 hand-printed black and white photographs dating
from 1964 to
2009, Jodice reveals the affinities between his works and those of De Chirico. Palazzo Delle
Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194 Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday,
10 am - 8 pm; Friday-Saturday 10 am - 12:30 pm; April 8 through July 11 tel 06 489 411I
Giulio Paolini Paolini (Genova, 1940),
an exponent of Arte Poverà, is considered one of the master
interpreters of contemporary art. His work explores the idea that
every art is derived from one enigmatic model. Palazzo Delle Esposizioni,
Via Nazionale 194 Sunday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 10 am - 8 pm,
Friday-Saturday 10 am - 12:30 pm; April 8 through July 11
Riscoperti dai Carabinieri
e La Finanza Each year Castel Sant'Angelo
organizes an exhibition of works retrieved by law enforcers working
under the arm of the Cultural Ministry. Important antiques, paintings,
sculptures and objets d'art taken from public and private collections are on view. Castel Sant'Angelo
Lungotevere Castello, 50 Tuesday-Saturday, 9 am - 7 pm; April 18 through
June tel 06 6819 111
Giacomo Favretto Favretto (1849-1887) was one of the major interpreters of 19th century Venetian painting and one of the most important painters of that era. The exhibition offers a chronological account of his artistic activity, highlighting key pivotal works that contributed to his development. Chiostro Bramante, Via della Pace Tuesday-Sunday, 10 am - 8 pm; April 24 through July 4 tel 06 688 09035
I Caravaggeschi Works of artists who were influenced by Caravaggio and his circle Fondazione Memmo-Palazzo Ruspoli, Via Del Corso 418 Tuesday-Sunday, 9:30 am - 6:30 pm. Opening mid-April tel 06 687 4704
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Continuing:Da Corot a Monet. La sinfonia della natura More than 170 paintings, works on paper and photographs, many seen for the first time in Italy. Beginning with the Scuola di Barbizon and continuing through to the chromatic triumph of Monet's "Ninfee", the show traces the entire evolutionary course of the Impressionist period, focusing on two overriding themes: nature and landscape. Complesso Vittoriano, Via Di San Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia) Monday-Thursday, 9:30 am - 7:30 pm; Friday-Saturday, 9:30 am -11:30 pm; Sunday, 9:30 am - 8:30 pm;; through June 29 tel 06 678 0363 Il tesoro di Morgantina Argenti del III sec. A.C. dal New York alla Sicilia. Passando per Roma (Silver from the Third Century AC, from New York to Sicily, passing through Rome.) After several years of complex negotiations, the Morgantina Treasures, which have been part of the Metropolitan's permanent collection since 1984, finally return to Italy. The cache of 16 elaborately executed silver dishes was discovered during a clandestine excavation, which took place in the 1970s and '80s, uncovering pieces that had remained buried there for more than 2000 years. Archaeologists studying the treasures say they are the most important silver collection to survive from the Hellenistic period. Museo Nazionale Romano - Palazzo Massimo, Largo Di Villa Peretti 1 (near Stazione Termini) Tuesday - Sunday, 9 am - 7:45 pm; through May 23 Albino Manca L'officina di uno scultore dal mito di Roma al sogno Americano (The workshop of a sculptor from Roman myth to the American dream) Traces the entire artistic activity of Sardinian sculpture Albino Manca. An overview of 100 works in sculpture, objects d'art, painting, print medallions and design an artist who was influenced by significant historical developments during the 20th century - Fascism in Italy, the close of WWII and the New Deal. Complesso Del Vittoriano Via Di San Pietro In Carcere (Piazza Venezia) Monday Friday, 9:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday-Sunday, 9:30 am-7:30 pm; through May 2 I MutantiA
group show presenting works by Ellen Gallagher, Adrian Paci, Stephen
Dean and Djamel Tatah, concerned with
today's plurality, in its sociological manifestation, reflected in the hybrid techniques they put into practice. Villa Medici -
Accademia Di Francia, Viale Della Trinità Dei Monti; Tuesday-Sunday,
11 am - 7 pm; through June 6 tel 06 6761291 Fausto Pirandello - Alle Quadriennali del 1935 e del 1939 Pirandello, born in Rome in 1899, was one of three sons of writer and Nobel prize-winner for literature, Luigi Pirandello. This exhibition focuses on the period from 1935 to 1939, when Pirandello participated in the Quadriennali, a national institution established in 1927 to promote contemporary Italian art. GNAM - Galleria Nazionale D'Arte Moderna, Viale Delle Belle Arti 131 Tuesday - Sunday 8:30 am - 7:30 pm; through May 21 tel 06 322 981 Attraverso le collezioni II - Quadro scultura. Scultura quadro More than 100 pieces from the museum's permanent collections, part of a rotation inaugurated a year ago, offering visitors a rare opportunity to view works that are not regularly seen or that have never been publicly viewed. The focus is on painting, sculpture and photography, executed by leading artists from the mid 1950s through the early 1990s. GNAM - Galleria Nazionale D'Arte Moderna Viale Delle Belle Arti 131 (Parioli) Tuesday - Sunday 8:30 am - 7:30 pm; through May 2 tel 06 322 981 Sacra Mirabilia. Tesoro da
Castiglion FiorentinoA collection of over 50 works of art
extending from the Etruscan period through the Medieval and from the
13th through the 19th centuries. These works in gold, ceramics,
painting, bronze, polychrome sculpture in wood and marble, normally
housed in three Roman institutions, are brought together to show the
range of the Castiglion Fiorentino region's (Arezzo) artistic heritage. Castel
Sant'Angelo, Via Lungotevere Castello 50 Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-7
pm; through April 11 Edward
HopperThe first retrospective exhibition in Rome of 143
works by the major exponent of American realism. His unparalleled
portrayal of daily American life and the solitude of modern man remains
unchallenged. Museo Fondazione Roma, Via del Corso 320 Tuesday-Sunday,
10 am-7 pm; through June 13 tel 06 678 6209 CaravaggioAn iconic exhibition
celebrating 500 years since the death of Caravaggio, one of history's
most enigmatic artists. Works selected for the exhibition offer a rare
opportunity to penetrate the essence of Caravaggio's work. Scuderie
Del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16 Sunday - Thursday, 10 am-8 pm;
Friday, 10 am-10:30 pm; through June 13 tel 06 399 67500 Charlotte Bonaparte: Dama di molto
spiritoThrough a selection of paintings, documents and objet d'arte, this exhibition traces
the life of Charlotte Bonaparte, the princess, artist and niece of
Napoleon. Museo Napoleonico, Piazza di Ponte Umberto I 1 Tuesday-Sunday,
9 am-7 pm; through April 18 Lawrence Ferlinghetti: 60 anni di pitturaTracing the
artistic career of American poet, painter, liberal activist, and
co-founder of City Lights Booksellers & Publishers Lawrence
Ferlinghetti, who is best known for "A Coney Island of the Mind", a
collection of poems that has been translated into nine languages. Museo
di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza Sant'Egidio 1/b Tuesday-Sunday, 10
am-8 pm; through April 25 Biographical
Landscape. Fotografie di Stephen Shore 1969-1979More than
160 photographs examining the relationship between Stephen Shore's
photography and the conceptual art that unfolded during the same decade. Museo
di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza Sant'Egidio 1/b Tuesday-Sunday, 10
am-8 pm; through April 25 Piranesi: Rembrandt delle rovine (Rembrandt of the ruins) In his splendid engravings of panoramic views of ancient and modern Rome, Giovanni Battista Piranesi (1720-1778) captured with accuracy, skill and beauty the magnificent drama of the Eternal City. The exhibition comprises 35 etchings of Roman vistas in large dimensions. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18 (near Piazza del Popolo) Tuesday-Sunday, 10 am-6 pm; through April 18 L'Età della Conquista (The Age of Conquest) Highlighting the profound influence Greco-Roman culture had on all Western civilization, this is the first in a series of five exhbitions. Covering the period from the end of the third century BC to the middle of the first century BC, the exhibition focuses on the period when Roman conquests in Greece brought Greek culture to the upper classes in Rome, influencing home decor, dress, architecure and religion. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Camidoglio Tuesday-Sunday, 9 am - 8 pm through September 5 tel 06 0608 Il
segreto di marmo. I marmi dipinti di Ascoli SatrianoA group
of 11 unique painted marble works, dating to the classical period of
Magna Grecia, found in the ancient territory of Ausculum, known today as
Asscoli Satriano in the province of Foggia (Puglia). The sculptures are
important for the crystalline quality of the marble, which was quarried
on the island of Paro and used exclusively for sculpture and painting. Museo
Nazionale Romano, Largo Di Villa Peretti 1 Tuesday-Sunday, 9 am-7:45
pm through April 18 Venezia E Il Secolo della BiennaleA selection of fifty works in painting, Murano glass, and photographs from the Collezione Fonazione di Venezia. The collection is divided into three categoiries: 20th century paintings, Venetian glass production and Mariano Fortuny textiles dating to the 15th century. Museo Carlo Bilotti, Aranciera di Villa Borghese Viale Fiorello La Guardia (Villa Borghese) Tuesday-Sunday, 9 am - 7 pm; March 10 through May 9  |
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 GETAWAYS: The Gardens of Rome
In the middle ages, Italian gardens were enclosed by walls, and were devoted to growing vegetables, fruits and medicinal herbs, or, in the case of monastery gardens, for silent meditation and prayer. Leon Battista Alberti (1404-1472) laid down the principles for architectural landscape design of the Renaissance garden, breaking down the wall between the garden, the house, and the surrounding landscape. Alberti wrote the first Renaissance text, De Re Aedificatoria (The Ten books of Architecture) in which garden design was included. He drew upon the architectural principles of Vitruvius and used quotations from Pliny the Elder and Younger to describe what a garden should look like and how it should be used. He argued that a villa should both be looked at and a place to look from; that the house should be placed above the garden, so that the owner could look down into it. The Italian Renaissance garden emerged in the late fifteenth century, first at Florentine villas and later in Rome, following Alberti's principles, which were based on the rediscovery of classical Roman models, descriptions of ancient Roman gardens by Ovid in the Metamorphoses and the letter osf of Pliny the Younger in which he describes life at his villa at Laurentum.In the late Renaissance, gardens became larger, grander and more symmetrical, and were filled with fountains, statues, stone grottoes, water organs and other features designed to delight their owners and amuse and impress visitors. The style was imitated throughout Europe, influencing the gardens of the French and the English. Today, one can still stroll through examples of these marvelous gardens without leaving Rome.
Vatican Gardens
Pope Nicholas the V (1447-1455) was
the first to create a garden on the 57 acres known today as the Vatican
gardens. Under Pope Julius II, the iconic Florentine architect Donato
Bramante transformed the grounds between the palace and the Belevedere
into a three-tiered landscape design connected by staircases. A harmonious blend of styles,
cultures and eclectic botany has defined the Vatican Gardens
since the Renaissance, and although Bramante's
original design has undergone changes to facilitate later architectural
developments, the gardens are still extraordinarily beautiful.
Soaring palms and exotic plants from as far away as Australia and Brazil
thrive on the slope behind St. Peter's. Buildings and monuments from the
ninth century to the present day are set amid a four-acre
wooded area and verdant lawns aare dorned with statues, fountains, parterres
and topiary. Winding paved roads and gravel paths link two
distinct horticultural areas - a flowery French section and naturalistic English
landscape - to the original Italian Renaissance garden and estate.
Vatican City State scheduled tours
begin April 8th tel 06 698 83860. For online reservations: www.vatican.va Villa Medici In the first century BC, the area atop the Pincian Hill was covered with vineyards and the gardens of Lucullus (Horti Lucullani). With the fall of the Roman empire, Rome's gardens fell into a decline that lasted nearly a thousand years, but with the coming of the Renaissance, nobles and cardinals competed to create the most beautiful villas and parks in the city. The Villa Medici garden, (now the home of the Académie de France), was purchased in 1576 by Cardinal Ferdinand de Medici. Designed to showcase the potentate's passion for classical order, the entire grounds were transformed into one of the most lavish properties in Rome. De Medici set about decorating the gardens with ancient sculptures, many of which, like the treasured Naiobidi sculpture group, were so rare, that they are now housed in the Uffizi Museums in Florence. Giambologna, the Cardinal's preferred sculptor, was commissioned to create a stunning bronze figure of the God Mercury, which was placed in the Loggia. The garden is still dazzling, a superb example of the Renaissance style, a formal rectangular space with terraces and allees. It is enclosed on three sides, the fourth side extending to a panoramic view of the city. A pink granite obelisk rises from a basin at the center of a common area. Hedges of laurel, boxwood and holly border the long, straight, intersecting paths of the ''bosco'' (woodland). Looking down one isle of the labyrinth, the view terminates in sculpted figures, and a classical arch rises before a stand of velvety cyprus trees. Villa Medici, Trinità dei Monti 1 (top of the Spanish Steps) Tours Tuesday-Sunday, 9:45 am, 11:45 am (in English), 3 pm and 5:30 pm tel 06 67 611 www.villamedici.itVilla PamphiliThe biggest park in Rome, but far less well-known than the iconic Borghese Gardens, the Villa Pamphili is a huge property, more than five miles in circumference. The old villa at the center of the vast gardens,was bought by the wealthy nobleman Pamfilio Pamphili in 1630 as a country estate, which he dubbed the "Bel Respiro", the lovely breath, since it stands at the top of the Janiculum hill, safely above what were then the malarial areas of Rome. Fourteen years later, when his brother, Giambattista Pamphili, was elected pope, becoming Innocent X, Pamphili designed to improve on his villa, placing the project in the hands of sculptor Alessandro Algardi. The villa is fronted by a "secret garden" a maze of sculpted hedges and orange trees only visible from the villa itself, or from the top of a staircase. Downhill from the secret garden, residents of the house could see a massive fountain, a rose garden, and further on, an outdoor theater formed from a small valley. To one side of the villa, nestled into a hillside, Algardi built a grotto with sculpted figures, where the family and their guests could sit amid cooling waters in the hot summer months. Wandering through fields and wooded areas, one arrives at another, massive fountain, overlooking a formal canal, which leads to a swan lake bordered by trees, and currently inhabited by a menagerie of swans, ducks, turtles and the odd band of city pigeons. During the 19th century, the sloping outer gardens were replanted in the naturalistic English style. During the defense of the short-lived Roman Republic in 1849-1850, the Villa Pamphili lay near the scene of some of the fiercest hand-to-hand combat as students joined Garibaldi's legions to defend Rome from the French troops, and many of the garden's walkways are named for heroes of that battle. The villa and gardens were bought by the Italian State and the city of Rome from the Doria-Pamphili famiy in 1965-1971. Today, it's a haven for urban joggers, dog walkers and bike riders, and bird watchers. Entrances to the garden are at Via Pancrazio and Via Donna Olimpia. www.gardenvisit.com

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