  What's on in Rome for the month of May, 2009
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 CLASSICAL MUSIC
At the Parco della MusicaVia Coubertin (Flaminio) tel 06 199 109 783 Orchestra e Coro dell'Accademia di Santa CeciliaAntonio Pappano conductor, Erwin Schrott bassWith his powerful yet velvety bass voice, Schrott is an international star of the opera stage. Schubert: Symphony n. 9 "The Great" Verdi:Te Deum Boito: Prologue from Mefistofele Sunday, May 3, 6 pm; Monday, May 4, 9 pm; Tuesday, May 5, 7:30 pm Grigory Sokolov pianoSokolov is one of the leading pianists of his generation. Beethoven: Sonata n. 2 in A majaor Beethoven: Sonata n. 13 Schubert: Sonata in D op. 53 Wednesday, May 6, 8:30 pm Orchestra dell'Accademia di Santa CeciliaMyung-Whun Chung, conductor Bruckner; Symphony n. 7 Saturday, May 9, 6 pm; Monday, May 11, 9 pm; Tuesday, May 12, 7:30 Uto Ughi violin and Aleksandar Madzar pianoThe duo perform the Beethoven sonatas for violin and piano over the course of two concert programs. Wednesday, May 13, 8:30 pm ; Friday, May 22, 8:30 pm Ensemble Contemporaneo dell'Accademia di Santa Cecilia HK Gruber conductor, Gabriele Geminiani cello,Dean: Recollections Gruber: Cello Concerto Lena: Für H.K.G. Adams: Chamber Symphony Friday, May 15, 8:30 pm Orchestra and Chorus of the Accademia di Santa CeciliaFabio Biondi conductor, Valentina Farcas soprano, Maria Grazia Schiavo sopranoAnn Hallenberg mezzo soprano, Bernard Richter tenor, Johannes Weisser bass An opportunity to hear this rarely performed work. Haydn: Il ritorno di Tobia Saturday, May 16, 6 pm; Monday, May 18, 9 pm; Tuesday, May 19, 7:30 Orchestra dell'Accademia di Santa CeciliaKodò - I tamburi giapponesi dell'isola di SadoThe famed Japanese drummers from the island of Sado in an unusual program. Tatsuya Shimono conducting Stravinski: The Rite of Spring Maki Ishii: Mono - Prism Saturday, May 23 6 pm; Monday, May 25, 9 pm; Tuesday, May 26, 7:30 Orchestra and Chorus of the Accademia di Santa CeciliaVladimir Ashkenazy conductor, Simone Pedroni piano,
Garry Magee baritoneThe renowned pianist and conductor Vladimir Ashenkazy is the principal conductor of the NHK Philharmonic, and regularly conducts the London Philharmonic and other important orchestras throughout the world. Baritone Garry Magee performs leading roles with the Bayerische Staatsoper, Komische
Oper Berlin, Welsh National Opera and Staatsoper Hannover. Beethoven: Grande fugue op 133, transcribed for orchestra Beethoven: Choral Fantasy Beethoven: Balthazzar's Feast, oratorio for baritone, chorus and orchestra Saturday, May 30 6 pm; Monday, June 1, 9 pm; Tuesday, June 2, 7:30 At the Aula Magna
Piazzale Aldo Moro (San Lorenzo)
tel 06 49 91
Fazil Say, piano
The Turkish pianist/composer is a regular guest with the New York Philharmonic, the
Israel Philharmonic, the St Petersburg
Philharmonic , the BBC Philharmonic, the Orchestre National de
France and other leading orchestras.
Music by Bach/Say, Bach/Busoni, Bach, Bach/Liszt, Musourski
Saturday, May 9, 5:30 pm At the Auditorium della ConciliazioneVia della Conciliazione (near the Vatican) tel 899 5000 55 Orchestra Sinfonica di RomaMuhai Tang, conductor, Gilad Karni, viola soloistIsraeli violist Karni is currently principal viola in the Tonhalle Orchestra Zurich. Muhai Tang is the Artistic Director and Chief Conductor of the Zurich Chamber Orchestra. Bartok: Concerto for viola and orchestra Bruch: Romanza op. 85 for viola and orchestra Haydn: Symphony n. 102 Sunday, May 3, 5:30 pm; Monday, May 4 , 8:30 pm Orchestra Sinfonica di RomaGesualdo Coggi, piano, Marco Fiorini, violin, Andrea Noferini, celloA. Casella: Triple Concerto op. 56 for piano, violin, cello and orchestra Haydn: Symphony n. 103 "Roll of the drum" Sunday, May 10, 5:30 pm; Monday, May 11, 8:30 pm Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma, Edvard Tchivzhel, conductorHaydn: Symphony n. 104 "London" Tchaikovsky: Symphony n. 4 Sunday, May 17, 5:30 pm; Monday May 18, 8:30 pm Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma, Francesco La Vecchia, conductingHaydn: Die Letzten Worte Unseres Erlosers am Kreuze (Last Words of Christ on the Cross) Sunday, May 24, 5:30 pm; Monday May 25, 8:30 pm Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma and the London Symphony ChorusFrancesco La Vecchia, conducting; Anita Selvaggio, soprano; Michael Smallwood, tenor; David Wilson Johnson, bass Haydn: Die Schopfung (The Creation) Sunday, May 31, 5:30 pm; Monday, June 1, 8:30 pm
At the Oratorio del Gonfalone
Via del Gonfalone, 32/a (near Campo de' Fiori)
€15-10 tel 06 49 91
Ars Trio
Laura Pietrocini piano, Marco Fiorentini violin, Michele Chiapperino cello
Music by Mendelssohn
Thursday, May 7, 9 pm
Annalisa Bellini, piano
The award-winning Roman pianist.
Music by Mozart, Clementi, Liszt
Thursday, May 14, 9 pm
Closing Concert: Astor Piazzolla
Mario Stefano Pietrodarchi bandoneon, Antonio Cipriani
conducting the Orchestra G. Tartini
Thursday, May 21, 9 pm
At the Auditorium del Palazzo delle Esposizioni
Via Nazionale at Via Milano
€8 tel 06 399 67500
Quartetto Bernini
The ensemble is completing a cycle of all the Mozart string quartets, in a series of Sunday morning concerts.
Quartet in G major KV 80 "Lodi", Quartet in E flat major KV 155,
Quartet in G major KV 499 "Hoffmeister"
Sunday, May 10, 11 am
Quartet in G major KV 160, Quartet in C major KV 170,
Quartet in D major KV 589 "Prussian"
Sunday, May 24, 11 am
 POPULAR, JAZZ and WORLD MUSICFor tickets to the Parco della Musica, tel 06 199 109 783 May Day ConcertThe annual jam at the Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, with a series of Italian pop stars on the outdoor stage and a crush of kids in the piazza. This year's headliners: Vasco Rossi, film star Sergio Castellitto, Edoardo Bennato, Caparezza, Nomadi, Bandabardò, Motel Connection, Asian Dub Foundation. The event will be broadcast live on Rai Tre beginning at 4 pm. Friday, May 1, 4 pm- midnight Danilo Rea, Piano SoloThe celebrated jazz pianist. Part of the Saturday at the Museum program, a series of concerts in museums throughout Rome. Mercati di Traiano - Museo dei Fori Imperiali, Via IV Novembre, 94 (near the Quirinale) Saturday, May 2, 9 pm and 10:20 pm €5 Parco della Musica Jazz Orchestra presents Paolo FresuAuditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli tel 199 109 783 Sunday, May 5, 6 pm Jackson BrowneAuditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecilia, Sunday, May 10, 9 pm Generazione X: Cluster with guest Fabio MarianiAuditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Sunday, May 10, 9 pm PacificoThe singer-songwriter, who has written for Italian stars such as Ornella Vanoni, Adriano Celentano, Gianni Morandi, Andrea Bocelli and Gianna Nannini, on tour with his latest release. Auditorium Parco della Musica Teatro Studio Wednesday, May 13, 9 pm Contemporanea: "Exotica"Lila, the ritual trance ceremony in honor of'Iman Sheikh Boulila (sufi master) performed by the Gnawa Issawa of Casablanca and the Parco della Musica Contemporanea Ensemble Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Friday, May 15, 9 pm Donne&Note: Chiara CivelloThe series of concerts by notable women opens with the Roman singer, now living in New York, whose music combines jazz with Latin rhythms, and the Italian " cantautore" tradition Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi Friday, May 15, 9 pm Contemporanea: TranceSacred ceremony for the Sufi Shah Jamal with Iannis Xenakis Persephassa; Goonga and Mithu Sain's dhol, drumming; Françoise Rivalland percussion and the Parco della Musica Contemporanea Ensemble. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Saturday, May 16, 9 pm Donne&Note: Rokia TraorèThe singer from Mali. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli Saturday, May 16, 9 pm The YellowjacketsAuditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli Monday, May 18, 9 pm Davide Van de SfroosThe singer-songwriter and his ensemble perform songs inspired by his birthplace of Lake Como. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Tuesday, May 19, 9 pm Donne&Note: DeolindaThe popular Fado-inspired group from Portugal, headed by Ana Bacalhau. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi Tuesday, May 19, 9 pm Claudio Baglioni in ConcertThe Italian superstar, on the scene for decades, always draws a big crowd. Piazza Siena, Borghese Gardens Friday, May 22, 9 pm €103,50-€32,20 tel 892 101 Donne&Note; Franca Masu "Hoy como ayer"The trio performs songs of Astor Piazzola and other tango composers. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Saturday, May 23, 9 pm Generazione X: Nobraino with guest Roberto AngeliniAuditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Sunday, May 24, 9 pm Donne&Note: BuikaThe singer from Palma di Mallorca, with origins in Guinea, mixes soul, hip hop, jazz and flamenco. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli Monday, May 25, 9 pm KodòThe drummers from the Japanese island of Sado Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecilia Wednesday, May 27, 9 pm Mimmo Locasciulli "Idra"The Italian singer-songwriter presents his latest album, inspired by the Greek island where artists such as Henry Miller and Leonard Cohen retreated to work. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Wednesday, May 27, 9 pm Fred Frith "Guitar Solo 2"The avant garde electric guitarist and composer. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Friday, May 29, 9 pm Francesco Cafiso and Dino RubinoThe young Sicilian jazz artists. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Saturday, May 30, 9 pm Têtes de Bois "The Recyclists"Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Petrassi Sunday, May 31, 9 pm 
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OPERA, DANCE & THEATER
Spazi per la Danza Contemporanea
A series showcasing the most recent works of ground-breaking choreographers Emio Greco and Virgilio Siena
Teatro Valle, Via del Teatro Valle, 21 tel 06 68803794
Hell, a collaboration by choreographer Emio Greco and Dutch director Pieter C. Scholten, inspired by Dante's Divine Comedy.
Monday-Tuesday, May 4-5
La Natura delle cose dal De Rerum Natura di Lucrezio
Directed, choreograpahed and designed by Virgilio Sieni
Wednesday-Thursday, May 13-14
Giulietta e Romeo
The Balletto di Roma, with choreography by F. Monteverde, resets the story in Italy in the aftermath of WWII.
Teatro Olimpico. Piazza Gentile da Fabriano, 17 tel 06 3265991
Tuesday-Saturday, May 19-23, 9 pm; Sunday, May 24, 6 pm €15
Pagliacci
Directed by Franco Zeffirelli, conducted by Gianluigi Gelmetti. In the first cast: Myrtò Papatanasiu, Stewart Meill, Juan Pons. Pierluigi Dilengite.
Teatro dell'Opera, Piazza Beniamino Gigli, 1 tel 06 481601
Tuesday, May 19, 8:30 pm; Wednesday, May 20, 8:30 pm; Thursday, May 21, 8:30 pm; Friday, May 22, 8:30 pm; Saturday, May 23, 6 pm; Tuesday, May 26, 8:30 pm; Wednesday, May 27, 8:30 pm
Mikhail Baryshnikov & Ana Laguna
Two extraordinary dancers, in works created for them by Swedish choreographer Mats Ek as well as "Valse Fantasie"and "Solo for Two," created for Baryshnikov by Alexei Ratmanski, former director of the Bolshoi, "Years Later," choreographed by Benjamin Millepied, principal dancer of the New York City Ballet , and the pas de deux "Place".
Auditorium della Conciliazione 4, via della Conciliazione (near the Vatican)
Wednesday, May 27, 8:30 pm
€45-25 tel 899 500 055
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 ART
Capolavori d'arte contemporanea. Il '900 nella provincia di RomaA
panorama of works that have incorporated themes drawn from the rich and
varied histories of Rome's provinces, selected from an international
roster of artists who were born in the province of Rome, or who lived and worked here.
Complesso Del Vittoriano Via Di San Pietro In Carcere
Monday - Thursday, 9:30 am - 6:30 pm; Friday-Saturday 9:30 am -7:30 pm; through May 24 tel 06 678 0363
Kristin Jones - Trilogia - Mostra
Conceived by American artist Kristin Jones, an exhibition
comprised of artworks, animation and imagery, dedicated to the image
of la Lupa, the she-wolf, the symbol of Rome. Piazza del Campidoglio 1 La storia racconta. Il Natale di Roma
An exhibition documenting the city's extraordinary history, its
myths, legends and traditions. In the first section, engravings,
photographs, film clips, statues and bas-reliefs portray territorial
aspects and legendary personalities prior to, and at the onset of the
city's foundation. The second section of the exhibition reveals
iconography associated with Rome, while the third section includes
artworks, photographs, film clips and documents linked to celebrations
of the city's official birthday, April 21.
Complesso del Vittoriano, Via Di San Pietro In Carcere
Monday-Thursday 9:30 am-6:30 pm; Friday-Saturday 9:30 am-7:30 pm; through May 17
Alessandro Mendini - Dall'infinito all'infinitesimo
A retrospective survey covering the career of Alessandro Mendini
(Milan 1931- ), who has been one of the foremost leaders in
contemporary Italian design for more than a quarter of a century. The
exhibition is comprised of photographs, models, sketches and
approximately 200 designs, on loan from the firms of Alessi, Baleri
Italis, Bisazza, Bylos Casa Supergo, Swatch, Venini and others, as well
as 300 original drawings from Design Museum.
Museo dell'Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta (near Piazza del Popolo)
Tuesday - Sunday, 9 am-7 pm; through September 6Beato Angelico tra Roma e Firenze
The first retrospective devoted to the masterful paintings of Domenican friar Beato Angelico (Vicchi circa 1395 - Rome 1455), who introduced the concept of central perspective to Roman art, adapting the characteristics of Roman architecture at a human scale to evoke classical memory. This exhibition commemorates the 550th anniversary of Beato Angelico's death.
Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, through July 5 tel 06 399 67 800
Dialoghi con la città - Alberti Garuti
Albrto Garuti's light sculpture occupies the first hall in the new museum space, representing the second installation of its inaugural cycle of site-specific works. The project was developed to feature installations that will accompany the concluding phase of the museum's new construction, which is scheduled for completion later this year.
MAXXI - Museo delle Arti del XXI Secolo,
Via Guido Reni 6 (Flaminio) through May 17 tel 06 321 0181
Granet: Roma E Parigi, La Natura Romantica
An exhibition of 100 oils on canvas and water-colors by French portraitist François-Marius Granet (1775-1849). Though he was a formidable landscape painter, his excellence is critically linked to peintre des capucins for his ability to depict cloistral silence and solitude.
Accademia di Francia, Villa Medici,
Viale Trinità dei Monti, 1 (top of the Spanish Steps) through May 24
Youssef Nabil - I won't let you die
For his first exhibition in Rome, photographer Youssef Nabil (Cairo, 1972 - ) has selected a body of 50 photographs comprised of portraits, vestments, objects, landscapes and self-portraits.
Accademia Di Francia, Villa Medici,
Viale Della Trinità dei Monti 1 (top of the Spanish Steps)
Tuesday - Sunday, 11 am-7 pm; through May 24
I Sabini popolo d'Italia. Dalla storia al mito
The first comprehensive exhibition in Rome on the Sabine, the ancient population that neighbored Rome at its eastern border. This exhibition offers a scholarly examination of historic, archaeological and artistic manifestations of the Sabine, traced through a selection of 120 pieces, including artefacts, ruins, miniature drawings, manuscripts, maps, codes, sculpture and paintings. Complesso Vittoriano, Via Di San Pietro In Carcere (Piazza Venezia)
Tuesday - Sunday, 9:30 am-7 pm; through April 26 tel 06 678 0363
Roberta Pugno - Materia Energia Pensiero
A selection of recent paintings links Pugno's works to literature, the history of mythology and thought.
Palazzo Venezia Via Del Plebiscito 118
Tuesday - Sunday, 9 am-7 pm; Apriil 10 through May 10
DAB / Roma Design per Artshop e Bookshop
Objets d'arte and design proposed by emerging Italian artists for the museum's commercial space.
Palazzo Delle Espoziisioni, Via Nazionale 194 Tuesday-Thursday, 10 am-8 pm; Friday-Saturday, 10 am-10:30 pm; April 9 through May 3 tel 06489411
Futurismo - Avanguardia-Avanguardie
A retrospective on Futurism, the towering and innovative movement that took place at the onset of the 20th century. Futurist art formed an aesthetic language derived from the idea of velocity, and dynamism brought on by modernism, and the era of industrialization. The show celebrates the 100th year since the publication in Le Figaro, February, 1909 of Filippo Tommaso Marinetti's "Il Manifesto", the driving force behind the movement. A collaboration with the Georges Pompidou Paris and the Tate Modern London.
Le Scuderie del Quirinale, Piazza Via XXIV Maggio 16
Sunday-Thursday, 10 am-8 pm; Friday-Saturday, 10 am-10:30 pm;
through May 24
L'arte della pubblicità. Il manifesto e le avanguardie 1920-1940
A survey of 100 works dedicated to early experiments in graphic design used as advertising-publicity material. The exhibition highlights works from a cadre of internationally known Italian artists linked to diverse movements from 1920 through 1940 - Adolfo Wild to Duilio Cambellotti - and Futuristic artists Despero and Giocomo Balla, Prampolini; Mario Sironi, Anna Villari, Lucio Fontana and others.
Casino Dei Principi - Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70
Tuesday - Sunday 9 am-7:30 pm; through May 24
Arnaldo Gianni Corradini - Armonie e Disarmonie degli stati d'anima
In cooperation with the centennial celebration of Futurism arts. Gianni
and his brother Bruno Corra were two of the most eclectic and charming
artists at the beginning of the 20th century.
Museo Andrea Blanceflor Boncampagni Ludovisi, Via Boncampagni 18
Tuesday-Sunday, 8:30 am-7 pm; March 12 through May 10 tel 06 42824074Giotto e il Trecento
This is the first exhibition in more than 70 years dedicated to Giotto (born Giotto di Bondone, Florence, 1266/76-1337), the medieval artist who took sovereignty over painting in the late 13th and early 14th centuries. Only 20 of the 150 works in the current exhibition - in tempera on wood, sculpture, rare manuscripts and gold - were executed by Giotto. The remaining are works by artists of that period.
Complesso del Vittoriano, Via Di San Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia)
Monday - Thursday, 9:30 am-7:30 pm; Friday-Saturday, 9:30 am-11:30 pm; Sunday, 9:30 am-8:30 pm; through June 28 tel 06 678 0363
Cy Twombly: Cicli e stagioni
The first retrospective in Rome dedicated to American-born artist Cy Twombly (Lexington, Virginia, 1928 -), this exhibition is structured around significant phases in the artist's oeuvre, presenting an opportunity to examine works created during the course of a long and important career in painting, design and sculpture. Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna, Viale delle Belle Arti, 131 (Parioli)
Tuesday- Sunday, 8:30 am-7:30 pm; through May 24 tel 06 322 98 221
Il Divo Vespasiano - Bimillenario dei Flavi
Celebrates 2000 years since the imperial rule of Flavio Vespasiano (69-79 A.D.), the outsider who came to power at 60 years of age. Set in two spaces which were of extraordinary historic and architectural importance in ancient Rome: the Curia del Foro, opened expressly for this occasion, and the Criptoportico neroniana
Anfiteatro Flavio, Colosseo, Piazza Del Colosseo
Daily 8:30 - 5:30; through January 10, 2010 tel 06 399 67700
Utagawa Hiroshige - Il maestro della natura
The first exhibition in Rome of paintings by Utagawa Hiroshige (Japan 1787-1858), Japan's most celebrated artist and the most important exponent of ukiyo, the traditional Japanese school of etching.
Museo Del Corso (Museo Fondazione Roma) Via del Corso 320 Tuesday-Saturday; through June 7 Johann Martin von Rohden - (1778-1868):
Da Kassel alla campagna romana
A selection of 20 drawings and 11 paintings by German landscape artist Johann Martin von Rohden. Four works in large format representing a painting cycle of the various stages of "day" (executed from1829-1839) were commissioned by Prince Wilhelm von Hessen-Kassel to replace the homonymous painting cycle by Claude Lorrain pilfered from Rome during the French occupation. This is the first preview of von Rohden's works in the city where he lived and painted for the major part of his life.
Casa Di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, Tuesday-Sunday, through June 21
John Margolies - American Roadside Architecture
For more than 30 years, photographer Margolies documented the American architectural style of the first half of the 20th century, chronicling its inevitable disappearance.
Museo Hendrik Christian Andersen Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini 20 (Flaminio) Tuesday - Saturday; through May 3 tel 06 321 9089
Darwin 1809 - 2009
Celebrating 200 years since the birth of English naturalist, Charles Darwin, this exhibition displays biographical information and documentation of his life-long work in science and the humanities.
Palazzo delle Esposizioni Via Nazionale 194 (Esquilino)
Tuesday-Thursday, 10 am - 8 pm; Friday-Saturday, 10 am - 10:30 pm; Sunday, 10 am - 8 pm. through May 3 tel 06 489411
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GETAWAYS: Rome's Top Ten Spectacular Views
Rome is full of unforgettable views, and as it's a city built on hills, there are spectacular panoramas, which no visitor should miss. We've listed ten of our favorites, in no particular order. If we've missed something, please let us know. Send us your favorite view of Rome, and we'll list it on our homepage, along with your name, and any information about yourself you'd like to share. Just write us at
1. From a Roman Hilltop: The Janiculum
The Janiculum, or Gianicolo as it is properly called in Italian, offers the classic view of the city. Contrary to popular belief, it is not one of the seven hills of Rome, all of which are within the city walls, while the Gianicolo is just outside. The hilltop was the scene of some of the bloodiest battles against the French, which took place in 1849 as Garibaldi and his men struggled for a united Italy. At the top of the hill, the statue of a proud Garibaldi on horseback looks out over the city, and busts of his noble comrades line the walkway. The best time to see the view is at dawn, when the sun rises over the city, and the sky changes from midnight blue to rose to gold. But it has been a tradition with us to take friends to the top of the Gianicolo at sunset, on their last night in Rome. With the city spread out before them, as the last glimmers of light bounce of the terracotta rooftops, and the birds sing the sun to sleep, the view is so magnificent that no one who sees it will fail to return to Rome. Walk across to the other side of the hill for a view of the Vatican, and the sun setting over Saint Peter's Dome. To get there, from Trastevere take Via Garibaldi all the way up to the top.
2. From the Quirinale Palace
The ultimate Rome photo op may be the Piazza Quirinale, atop the highest of Rome's original seven hills. (In case you've always wondered, they are the Quirinale, Viminale, Esquilino, Capitolino, Palatino, Aventino, Celio.) It's a wide open, wind-swept open space, dominated by the Fontana di Dioscuri. Walk out towards the edge of the hill. Your are at the spot where a great temple to the Roman god Quirino once stood, as well as a temple to the goddess of health, and the baths built by the emperor Constantine. On your right is the Palazzo Quirinale. Built as a summer residence for the popes, after 1870 it was the palace of the King of a newly reunited Italy, and today it's the palace of the president of the republic. At the edge of the hill, from the balustrade, Rome stretches before you. It's magnificent at any time of day, but at night, with the city lights twinkling below, it's truly magical. Opposite the Quirinale Palace, the former scuderie, or stables, is now a beautiful museum, designed by architect Gae Aulenti. After seeing a show there, we always stop at the huge glass window at the top of the stairs on our way out. The view of the city, especially at dusk, is often more beautiful than the art we just saw on the museum walls.
3. At the City's Edge- The top of the Spanish Steps and the Pincio
Until the late 19th century, Rome officially ended with the gates at Piazzale Flaminio. Cross through to the other side, and you were in the country. The hill that rises above Piazza del Popolo, the Pincio, was a favorite spot for an evening stroll or carriage ride. Today, visitors still flock to the hill at sunset for a magnificent view. We like to climb to the top of the Spanish Steps, pausing for a view across the Trident, the area defined by Via del Corso, Via del Babuino and Via della Ripetta. Then we wander to the left, past the Villa Medici towards the Pincio. All along the way, the views of the city are simply stunning. Climb to the the top where the street forks, or simply continue downhill to Piazza del Popolo.
4. From the Rose Garden- Roseta Comunale
Walk along via Circo Massimo and you'll come to the Piazzale Ugo Malfa. Take via San Saba up they hill and you'll come to Via di Valle Murcia and Rome's community rose garden. In season, from May to October, more than 1,000 varieties of roses are in bloom in a terraced garden. Walk to the top and take a seat on one of the benches. As you look down, you'll notice that the roses are planted in the shape of an eight-armed candelabra, a menorah. In 1950, the garden was planted in cooperation with Rome's Jewish community on the site of the former Hebrew cemetery, where Jews had buried their dead since 1645. In 1934, under the Fascist regime, the cemetery was moved. The view from the top of the garden is wonderful. Below you are row upon row of roses, and ahead, the Baths of Caracala, the Portico d'Ottavia and the city's ancient streets.
5. Through the Keyhole: Knights of Malta
Stroll up the Aventine hill along Via San Sabina. Stop to take in the fabulous view of the city from the Parco Savello, but continue on to the Piazza Cavalieri di Malta designed by Piranesi in 1765. Peek through the keyhole in the gate, and
you'll see a garden path that ends with bushes perfectly framing the dome
of St. Peter's in the distance. The gateway, incidentally, leads to the
gardens of the Knights of Malta (I Cavalieri di Malta), one of the last
surviving orders of knights left over from the Crusades. (Before you
say, "Cool!" and rush off to join, we should warn you they wear rather
unbecoming powder-blue uniforms, and they take a vow of chastity.) The
knights left Malta long ago, and their headquarters are now here in
Rome. In fact, the Italian state recognizes their sovereignty, which
means there are actually three nations within Rome (Italy, the Vatican,
and the Knights of Malta).
6. Climbing the Cupola - St. Peter's at the Vatican
Leviathan among monuments, designed and built by Michelangelo, the dome
of St. Peter's towers 440 ft. above the city. Getting to the top is
not easy, but it's worth it. It's a spiraling crawl of 500 very narrow
steps, which you'll have to manage with your knees meeting your chest.
(For the faint of heart, the lift reduces the number of stairs to
300.) But when you come out onto the terrace, you are rewarded with an
unimaginably spectacular view. The panorama spreads beyond the range of
mountains girdling the region at its eastern border. Looking toward the
west and south, on a clear day, you can even glimpse the Mediterranean
Sea.
7. From the Fortress Ramparts: Castel Sant Angelo
On the banks of the Tiber, the Emperor Hadrian built a magnificent
mausoleum, meant as the final resting place for him and his family. But
history has a way of altering the story. The mausoleum passed through
several patrician families before falling into the hands
of Pope Nicolo III. In 1367, when the popes returned from exile in
Avignon under Pope Urban V, the emperor's mauseoleum became their papal home and fortress. During the plague years, legend has
it that the pope, returning from a walk with his flock, saw an angel holding a flaming sword in the
sky over the castle. He fell on his knees in
gratitude for this sign from heaven that the plague was over. One angel
or another has perched atop the castle ever since, giving it its name.
In modern times, the castle has been converted into a museum, housing
artworks, antique armaments, and the ancient papal apartments, beautifully painted in
the grotesque style, and below, an infamous
Renaissance prison. The Castle's unique position makes it the only public monument where
the full serpentine pattern of the Tiber river can be seen as it
snakes its way through the center of Rome. Climb up to the spectacular
loggia where you can see Rome's grand palaces aligned along the river,
while the roofs of its monuments soar in the background. The
breathtaking 360° view stretches to the foothills of the surrounding
mountains. You can't help but wonder if Hadrian thought that
'architecture could replace mortality'.
Lungotevere Castello, 50 Tuesday-Sunday, 9 am -7 pm
8. View from the Bridge: Ponte Sisto, Ponte Mazzini
Many people go into raptures over the view from the Ponte Sisto, which spans the Tiber between Piazza Trilussa in Trastevere, and Via Giulia on the other side. At sunset, when the ancient palazzi of Trastevere reflect the light, and the dome of Saint Peter rises straight ahead, it is indeed, stunning. But wander down the river towards the Vatican to the next bridge, Ponte Mazzini, and the Castel Sant'Angelo appears on your right. We also love stopping at the lookout points on the Ponte Garibaldi, further down the river in the other direction. To one side you have a wonderful view of Saint Peter's, and to the other, the dome of the Tempio Maggiore, Rome's main synagogue, as well as the Isola Tiberina, the island that divides the river.
9. Atop the Wedding Cake: Piazza Venezia
Rome's showcase piazza, Piazza Venezia is dominated by the humongous monument to the unknown soldier, variously loved or despised by the locals and referred to as the "Wedding Cake", the "typewriter" or more properly, the Complesso Monumentale del Vittoriano. In 1878, after the death of Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy's first king, the decision was made to build a monument in celebration of the father of the country. But in order to do it, an entire medieval neighborhood was demolished. A tragedy in itself, but to add insult to injury, the grandiose monument dwarfs the beautiful historic area that surrounds it. Since 2007, an external elevator makes it possible to reach the quadrighe, the terrace of the chariots at the top of the monument, for an incomparable view of the Eternal City. If you're impatient to wait your turn at the lift, a climb of 196 stairs will get you there. A more leisurely view is available from the terrace of the restaurant of the monument's art museum. Not quite as spectacular, but enough to take your breath away, just the same.
10. By a Prison Wall-The Forum from the Carcere Mamertimo
The walkway across from an ancient prison is the scene of a multitude of wedding photographs. Couples descend the stairs of the Chiesa di San Giiuseppe del Falgenami, which stands over the ancient Mamertime Prison, which according to legend, once housed Saint Peter. The happy bride and groom make their way across the little piazza to the balustrade where they pose, the bride's veil blowing in the breeze, and in the background, a spectacular view of the Roman forum. You don't have to get married to take advantage of it. Just walk past the Vittoriana in Piazza Venezia along the Via dei Fori Imperiali, turn right towards the museum entrance, and follow the signs to the Carcere Mamertimo.
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