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The holiday season in Rome officially begins with the Feast of the
Immacolata, celebrated by the pope, who crowns the head of the Virgin
Mary's statue in Piazza di Spagna and continues through the Feast of
the Ephiphany on January 6, celebrated with toys and gifts for the kids
and, of course, a big meal. This year, in a surprise move, the mayor's
office, which saw fit to cancel the acclaimed "Notte Bianca", when
summer ends and all Rome stays up all night, has reversed its claim of
budget problems and proclaimed "Rome Christmas City 2008" with some 442
concerts, events and exhibits, in a non-secular effortto underline the
Eternal City's role as cultural capital of Christianity. Read on.....
At the Parco della Musica Via Coubertin (Flaminio) tel 06 199 109 783 The Baroque Experience featuring Mario Brunello, cello Suites and Sonatas by Vivaldi and Bach Sala Sinopoli, Friday, December 5, 8:30 pm Choir of King's College Cambridge Christmas music by Schütz, Praetorius, Britten, Poulenc, Vaughn-Williams. Sala Sinopoli, Friday, December 12, 8:30 pm
Coro dell'Accademia di Santa Ceciliawith Giuseppe Andaloro, piano Schumann Kinderszenen for piano op. 15 Schumann Der Rose Pilgerfahrt Sala Sinopoli, Friday, December 19, 8:30 pm Orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Ceciliaconducted by Kent Nagano with pianist Til Fellner Messiaen: Cinq rechants Beethoven Concerto n. 3 for piano and orchestra op. 37 Beethoven Symphony n. 7 in A major op. 92 Sala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, December 13, 6 pm; Monday, December 15, 9 pm; Tuesday, December 16, 7:30 pm Christmas Concert: Accademia Europea di Musica di Erba Carlo Goldstein conductor, Gemma Plandolit soprano Music by Mozart, Bach, Beethoven, De Falla, Mascagni, Puccini, Strauss Sala Petrassi, Saturday, December 20, 8:30 pm Orchestra dell'Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia conducted by Antonio Pappano with violinist Leonidas Kavakos Sala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, December 20, 6 pm; Sunday, December 21, 6 pm; Monday, December 22, 9 pm Sibelius: Valse triste, op. 44 n. 1 Sibelius: Concerto in D minor for violin and orchestra op. 47 Ponchielli: La Gioconda: La danza delle ore Lehar: Gold und Silber Waltz Ravel: La valse Viennese Gala , Orchestra di Roma Sinfonietta Sala Santa Cecilia, Monday, December 29, Tuesday, December 30, 9 pm; Wednesday, December 31, 5 pm; Thursday, January 1, 6 pm Waltzes by Brahms, Offenbach, Strauss and the Inverse Canon by Ennio Morricone. Maestro Morricone will conduct his piece on the 29th and 30th only.
At the Aula Magna Piazzale Aldo Moro (San Lorenzo) tel 06 49 91 Radio and Television Symphony Orchestra of Moscow
Alexei Kornienko, conductor with Feng Ning violin soloist Beethoven: Concerto in D major for piano and orchestra op. 61 Dvorák: Symphony n. 9 in E minor "New World"
Tuesday, December 9, 8:30 pm
Kun Woo Paik, piano Messiaen: Vingt regards sur l'Enfant-Jésus Saturday, December 13, 5:30 pm
Harlem Gospel Choir
Tuesday, December 16, 8:30 pm
At the Auditorium della Conciliazione Via della Conciliazione (near the Vatican) tel 899 5000 55 Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma Programs subject to change. Francesco La Vecchia conducting Busoni: Ouverture giocosa Busoni: Rondà arlecchinesco op.46 for tenor and orchestra Brahms: Symphony n 4 in E minor, op. 98 Sunday-Monday, December 7-8 Francesco La Vecchia conducting with cello soloist David Gerngas. Saint-Säens: Concerto n. 1 op 33 for cello and orchestra Bartok: Concerto for Orchestra Sunday-Monday, December 21-22 Francesco La Vecchia conducting Mendelssohn: Concerto in E minor op 64 for violin and orchestra Mozart: Symphony n 38 K 504 Sunday-Monday, December 28-29 Strauss Festival Orchestra and Strauss Festival Ballet Ensemble Gala waltz concert Wednesday, December 31, 9:30 pm and Thursday, January 1, 6 pm
At the Villa Medici Accademia di Francia, Viale Trinità dei Monti tel 06 67 611 Beethoven Sonatas Giovanni Bellucci continues his project of performing all the Beethoven sonatas, as well as the Lizst transcriptions of all nine symphonies. 9 pm
CHRISTMAS CONCERTS IN THE CHURCHES Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri Piazza della Repubblica Schola Cantorum S. Maria degli angeli sings Christmas music from the middle ages through Palestrina, Saturday, December 6, 8:30 pm R. Curione, baritone with O. Guidotti, organo, perform Christmas and sacred music by Frescobaldi, Campra, Cazzati, Händel, Saturday, December 13, 8:30 pmSchola Cantorum S. Maria degli Angeli and the Orchestra Barocca dell'ARAMUS perform Vivaldi's Gloria and the J.S. Bach Magnificat. Saturday, December 20, 8:30 pm
Organist Gianluca Libertucci performs music by Bach, D'Aquin, Mendelsson, Bartolucci, Wednesday, December 24, 10 pm Organista Osvaldo Guidotti performs Christmas music, Thursday, December 25, 11:30 am Soprano Jung Mi Lee and organist Osvaldo Guidotti perform music by
Buxtehude, Pergolesi, Gounod, Verd, Wednesday, December 31, 7 pm Santa Maria in Aracoeli Piazza del Campidoglio 4 Coro Lirico Italiano and the Orchestra Roma Sinfonietta perform Mendelssohn's Magnificat in the ambience of an exhibition by artist Mimmo Paladino. Sunday, December 7, 8:30 pm Coro Polifonico "Canticorum Jubilo", Coro di Voci Bianche: "S. Lucia", "Coro dell'Aeronautica Militare Roma Centocelle", and "S. Lorenzo al Verano" with organist Josep Solè Coll perform Beethoven's Mass in C and music by Schubert, Bach, and Christmas selections. San Giacomo in Augusto Via del Corso 499 Cappella Musicale di San Giacomo with organist Cristiano Accardi perform music by Frescobaldi, Scarlatti and Gregorian chant. Sunday, December 7, 7:15 pm
Vocalia Consort perform music by J. Busto, P. Caraba, T. L. da Victoria, R. Di Marino, C. Gesualdo, C. Monteverdi, Sunday, December 21, 7:30 pm Santa Maria in Aquiro Piazza Capranica 72 (near the Pantheon) Orchestra d'archi e solisti dell'Associazione Musicale Antonio Salieri conducted by Roberto Bongiovanni perform music by Corelli, Bach, Bongiovanni Monday, December 8, 5 pm Sant'Andrea della Valle Piazza Vidoni 6 (Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II near Piazza Navona)
Cappella Musicale Theatina with Andrea Coen organ perform Ad Missam "In conceptione immaculata BVM", Francesco Andreu Missa "Tota Pulchra" Monday, December 8, noon Orquesta Sinfonica Juvenil "Gran Miriscal de Ayacucho" performs Italian and Latin American sacred music in conjunction with art installations by Luis Gonzales Palma and Graciela de Oliveira. Sunday, December 14, 8:30 pm Cappella Musicale Liberiana, music by F. Andreu, V. Miserachs, gregorian chant Saturday, January 3, 6 pm Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano Coro della Diocesi di Roma, Orchestra Nova Ars perform traditional Christmas music. Sunday, December 21, 8:30 pm Santa Maria del Redentore: Montserrat Caballe Viale Duilio Cambellotti, 18 (Tor Bella Monaca, east Rome) Unbelievable but true, the legendary soprano sings traditional Christmas music accompanied by the Coro dell'Aramus and l'Orchestra Filarmonica di Roma. Monday, December 22, 8:30 pm SS Dodici Apostoli Piazza dei Santi Apostoli 51 (Piazza Venezia-Quirinale) Harlem Messsengers of New York perform gospel music and Christmas favorites. Sunday, December 27, 9 pm Coro Musicanova and the Complesso Barocco perform a Christmas concert in conjunction with an art installation by Jannis Kounellis. Monday, January 6, 8:30 pm Santa Maria del Popolo Piazza del Popolo 12 Gruppo Italiano di Ottoni the brass quartet performs music by Bach, Scarlatti, Händel and others. Saturday, January 3, 9 pm San Salvatore in Lauro Piazza San Salvatore in Lauro 15 (near Castel Sant'Angelo, Via dei Coronari) Ensemble Mandolinistico Napoletano, Christmas concert with singer Annalisa Messina and special guest Pietro Quirino Sunday, January 4, 9 pm Santa Maria Sopra Minerva Piazza Minerva 12 Orchestra Nova Amadeus conducted by Nicola Samale with mezzo soprano Elisabetta Fiorillo perform music by Bach, Händel, Franck, Verdi, Corelli, Mozart, Christmas favorites. Tuesday, January 6, 9 pm
Subsonica Club Tour Tendastrice, Friday, December 5 www.greenticket.it Noa & Band "Genes & Jeans Tour" Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecilia Sunday, Deccember 7, 9 pm tel 199 109 783 Dianne Reeves "Strings Attached" Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Sinopoli Tuesday, December 9, 9 pm tel 199 109 783 Zucchero: Live in Italy Palalottomatica, Friday, December 12 www.greenticket.it The New Millenium Gospel Singers (USA) Teatro Olimpico,, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano (Flaminio) Thursday, December 18, 9 pm Father Joe Teatro Brancaccio, Monday, December 22 www. greenticket.it Irene Grandi & PMJO Parco della Musica Jazz Orchestra Christmas music Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecilia, Tuesday, December 23, 9 pm tel 199 109 783 Dee Dee Bridgewater meets PMJO Parco della Musica Jazz Orchestra Christmas music Auditorium Parco della Musica, Sala Santa Cecila, Auditorium Parco della Musica Saturday, December 27, Sunday December 28, 9 pm tel 199 109 783 "La ChiaraStella": Orchestra Popolare Italiana Ambrogio Sparagna, conductor. Traditional Italian folk music. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Saturday-Monday, January 3-5, 9 pm tel 199 109 783 Paolo Fresu, jazz trumpet One of Italy's most important jazz musicians. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Wednesday, January 7, 9 pm tel 199 109 783 GOSPEL FESTIVAL Again this year, the Sala Sinopoli at the Auditorium Parco della Musica hosts an impressive lineups of some of the best gospel choirs from the United States. tel 199 109 783 Soweto Gospel Choir Saturday, December 20, 9 pm Anthony Morgan's Inspirational Choir Of Harlem Sunday, December 21, 9 pm Voices of Deliverance Choir Monday, December 22, 9 pm Earnest Pugh & The Assembly Thursday, December 25, 6 pm Joshua Nelson & The Klezmatics Friday, December 26, 9 pm Virginia Mass Choir Saturday, December 27, 9 pm Sjuwana Byers & Children Of God Sunday, December 28, 9 pm Bridgette Campbell Windy City Gospel Choir Monday, December 29, 9 pm Robin Brown and Triumphant Delegation Tuesday, December 30, 9 pm The Jackson Singers Wednesday, December 31, 10 pm
NEW YEAR IN ROME For the young and young at heart, there are parties at the clubs, and two major events: At the Fiera di Roma, there's the annual all-night disco party, a major extravaganza with multiple dance floors. While at the Colosseum, the annual free concert, this year headlined by superstar Gianna Nannini, always draws a huge crowd.
At the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma Piazza Beniamino Gigli (Esquilino) tel 06 48 16 02 55
Verdi: Otello A new co-production with the opera theater of Salzburg, conducted by Riccardo Muti, starring Aleksandrs Antonenko in the title role, with Marina Poplavskaya and Maria Luigia Borsi alternating in the role of Desdemona, and Giovanni Meoni and Nicola Alaimo alternating as Iago. December 6, 9, 11, 13, 14. All performances sold-out. Rossini: Il Barbiere di Siviglia (The Barber of Seville) Conducted by Gianluigi Gelmetti. WithLaura Polverelli, Francisco Gatelli, Massimiliano Gagliardo, Pierlugi Dilengite, Bruno Taddia and Laura Cherici. Saturday, December 20, 8:30 pm; Sunday, December 21, 4:30 pm; Tuesday, December 23, 8:30 pm; Saturday, December 27, 6 pm; Sunday, December 28, 4:30 pm Lo schiaccianoci (The Nutcracker) Tchaikovsky's ballet, a perenniel Christmas favorite presented by the orchestra and corp de ballet of the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. Saturday, December 20, 8:30 pm; Sunday, December 21, 4:30 pm; Tuesday, December 23, 6 pm; Wednesday, December 24, 11 am; Saturday, December 27, 6 pm;
RomaEuropa Festival The international festival of contemporary music, dance and theater concludes. Infoline: 06 455 530 55 www.romaeuropa.net Hiroaki Umeda: Adapting for Distortion, While Going to a Condition The Japanese artist uses dance, visual arts, sound design and digital technology in his performances. In 2000, the founded the interdisciplinary company S20, which has performed at festivals throughout Europe and Asia. "while going to a condition", first presented in 2002, utilizes sounds created by the dancers themselves. Teatro Palladium, piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8 (Garbatella) Tuesday-Wednsday, December 2-3, 8:30 pm €22-10 Bill T Jones: Chapel/Chapter "Religion and mysticism according to Bill T Jones." Jones, with the Arnie Zane Dance Company, presents a multi-media performance set to madrigals, folk songs and Gregorian chants with video images of daily life in Manhattan and Harlem. The performance addresses political and moral conflicts through episodes in African-American lives, a reflection on the themes of human violence, repentence and forgiveness. Jones' work has been commissioned by companies throughout the U.S. and Europe. In 1986 Jones and Zane received a Bessie Award, and in 1991 Jones was recognized as an "innovative master" with the Dorothy B. Chandler Performing Arts Award. In June of 1994, Jones was awarded a MacArthur fellowship. Auditorium della Conciliazione, via della Conciliazione 1 (near the Vatican) Thursday-Friday, December 4-5, 8:30 pm €40-15 Aterballetto: Rome and Juliet The respected dance company and the Accademia Filarmonica Romana present Prokoviev's ballet, with choreography by Mauro Bigonzetti. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, Thursday, January 1, 5 pm; Friday-Saturday, January 2-3, 9 pm; Sunday, January 4, 5 pm. €27-16. tel 800.90.70.80
For kids of all ages at Christmas Natale al Parco della Musica The park around the Auditorium turns into a Christmas wonderland December 10-January 6. The grounds are merrily decorated with lights, the Cavea is transformed into a skating rink, and a Christmas village with goodies for sale, as well as all sorts of surprises, appears on the grounds. Skating rink: Open through February 8 . Entrance €8 The Gameland World Console Championship: For older kids, a three-day marathon dedicated to video games. In the garage of the Auditorium, thousands of players will compete for prize money, playing games such as Pro Evolution Soccer 2009, Gears of War 2, Halo 3, Call of Duty 4 and Guitar Hero 3. Plus workshops demonstrating the latest hardware and software. Saturday, December 6 -Monday, December 8, from 10 am. €15 Hänsel and Gretel, a musical version of the Grimm brothers fairy tale, in Italian, presented in the Auditorium's Sala Ospiti, Saturday, December 5, 11 am and 4 pm; Sunday, December 7, 10 am and 4 pm; Monday, December 8, 10 am and 4 pm. €10 Junior Orchestra and Children's Chorus: Two fine ensembles, the JuniOrchestra and the Voci Bianche perform a series of holiday concerts. Christmas music at Sala Petrassi, Sunday, December 7, 6 pm Sala Sinopoli, Monday, December 8, 6 pm and the JuniOrchestra plays music by Strauss, Beethoven, Mozart and Tchaikovsky at the Sala Santa Cecilia, Sunday, December 21, 11 am. Tickets to all concerts €6. Puppets, Puppets, Puppets: The great Sicilian puppeteer Mimmo Cuticchio presents "L'infanzia d'Orlando", followed by "Il gran duello di Orlando e Rinaldo per amore della bella Angelica"
at the Teatro Studio, Saturday-Sunday, December 27-28, 11 am Then he'll continue the story with "La rotta di Roncisvalle", at the Sala Petrassi with Monday, December 29, 5 pm; and "La riscoperta di Troia", Tuesday, December 30. All in Italian €15 For Italian-speaking kids 6-10 years old, Cuticchio will hold workshops where they can make their own paper puppets. Studio 3, Saturday, December 27-Monday, December 30, 10 am and 4 pm. €40 for the three-day workshop. €50 includes workshop and performance tickets. Tel 06 802 41281 to reserve. Presepi: The Italian Christmas Crêche The presepe is almost more iconic than the Christmas tree, here in Italy, and there are displays all over Rome! At Sala del Bramante in Piazza del Popolo 1, the annual display of 100 Presepi is already open daily through January 6. The presepi at Piazza Navona and on the Scalinata di Spagna are open from December 20 through January 6. There will be impressive, life-sized presepi at the Vatican and the Campidoglio, and following churches offer displays:Basilica di San Pietro in Vaticano, Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore, San Marcello al Corso, Sant'Antonio da Padova , Santa Maria dell'Anima, Santa Maria in Aracoeli, Santa Maria in Domnica alla Navicella , Santa Maria in Traspontina, Santa Maria in Via - Madonna del Pozzo, Santo Spirito dei Napoletani, SS. Cosma e Damiano, SS. Dodici Apostoli
Mickey's Magic Show Palalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport (Eur) Wednesday-Thursday, December 3-4, 7:30 pm; Friday, December 5, 5 and 8:45 pm; Saturday-Sunday, December 6-7, 11:30 am, 3:30 pm, 7:30 pm. Monday, December 8, 11:30 am and 3:30 pm €48,50-€20 tel 06 4549 6305 Winx on Ice Starring Italian Olympic figure skater Carolina Kostner, the cartoon characters come to life. Palalottomatica (Eur); Friday, January 2, 7:30 pm; Saturday, 3:30 pm and 7:30 pm; Sunday, January 4-Tuesday, January 6, 3:30 pm €66-€16,50 www.greenticket.it Sleeping Beauty on Ice Presented by the Russian state company Moscow on Ice. Teatro Tendastrice Via Perulana December 23-31. € www.greenticket.it
Da Rembrandt a Vermeer Valori Civili nella pittura fiamminga e olandese From Rembrandt to Vermeer - Civil values in Flemish and Dutch Painting An exhibition dedicated to the Golden Age of Flemish and Dutch painting examines the development of domestic interiors in genre painting, depicting familiar scenes of domestic intimacy while giving testimony to a renewed social content and civil value of Holland during 1600's. A selection of 55 paintings include masterful works of Rembrandt, Vermeer, Ruebens, Franz Hals, Gerard ter Borch, Pieter de Hooch, Jacobsz van Ruisdale, Anton van Dyck and others. Museo Del Corso, via del Corso 320 Sunday - Saturday 10am - 8pm; through February 15 De Chirico e il museo This exhibition goes beyond retrospective to balance a theme not often confronted in DeChirico's work, examining the complex relationship DeChirico negotiated between art of the past and his own innovative style. Gnam - Galleria Nazionale D'Arte Moderna, Viale Delle Belle Arti (Parioli) Tuesday - Sunday 9 am - 7 pm; through January 25 Giovanni Bellini The first major exhibition of the work of 15th century Venetian master Giovanni Bellini, since 1949, Bellii helped transform Venice into a major center of Renaissance art. Bellini's extraordinary pale d'altare is among the more than 70 works selected. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16 Sunday - Thursday 10 am -8 pm; Friday - Saturday 10 am - 10:30 pm; through January 11 Bruno Munari Artist, graphic and industrial designer, Munari was one of the great innovators of the 20th century. The exhibition is comprised of 150 objects in various media. Museo dell'Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta Tuesday - Sunday 9 am - 7 pm; through February 22 Marco Delogu - Noir et Blanc The first public showing of 70 black and white photographs by the internationally known photographer and curator. Accademia di Francia, Villa Medici, Viale Della Trinità Dei Monti 1 (Spanish Steps) Tuesday - Sunday 11 am-7 pm; through December 8 tel 06 6751291 L'Apollo di Mantova For a generous length of time, visitors will have a rare opportunity to view the Apollo di Mantova, a marble statue of the pesky Greek God dating from the second century, during the reign of Imperatore Adriano (117 - 138A.D.). This is the first collaboration between the Capitoline Museums and "Ospitando", a newly-formed cultural organization designed to encourage the exchange of rare master works between national museums Musei Capitolini , Piazza Del Campidoglio 1 Tuesday - Sunday, 9 am - 8 pm; through January 6 Bill Viola American media artist Bill Viola (1951 - ) has been a pioneer in establishing video art as an important artistic expression of contemporary art Palazzo degli Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194 (Esquilino) Tuesday - Sunday, 10 am - 7 pm; through January 6 tel 06 489 9411 Etruschi. Le antiche metropolis del Lazio This exhibition is devoted to the ties between four ancient cities in the Etruscan kingdom that left a resounding cultural impact on the Etruscan civilization and Rome, its religious practices and the iconography that symbolized its power. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194 (Esquilino) Tuesday - Sunday, 10 am - 7 pm; January 6 tel 06 489 9411 Giulio Cesare This exhibition chronicles Giulio Cesare's rise to power while examining the social, political and cultural influences that impacted Egypt and Rome during the time of his reign. Ambiente Dart - Chiostro Del Bramante; Via Della Pace (near Piazza Navona) Tuesday - Friday, 10 am - 8 pm; Saturday - Sunday, 10 - 9 pm; through April 5
GETAWAYS: Holiday Lunch in the Country Lazio's bucolic lake community surrounding Lago di Bracciano is catching up with the latest food culture and in some cases, still holding strongly to centuries of solid traditional lake cuisine. Visit the lakeside communities of Trevigniano Romano, Anguillara and Bracciano, each less than an hour from Rome's historic center, at the end of the Cassia or off the Cassia bis. Ristorante Il Melograno This friendly, family-owned restaurant just off the lungolago with a view of the lake from both terraces, has been around for several years, but still retains its honeymoon status as one of the most innovative and creative spots in the area. Owner Augustino creates a romantic atmosphere for evening diners with soft lighting, tasteful objects and faux antiques reminiscent of Provençale. The menu steers away from a restricted lake cuisine, preferring to re-visit traditional dishes with attention to presentation. The catch of the day is often combined with pasta or vegetables to produce an inventive gastronomic delight. Wine tastings are held several times a year at a fixed price of €40 which includes a full-course meal. Open December 25th for Christmas lunch, December 26th for St. Stephens day and New Year's Eve. Reservations necessary. Closed off-season on Mondays, Tuesdays. Via degli Asinelli 8c, Trevignano Romano tel 06 9999 512 Retro Gusto Chef Marco Damianì's restaurant brings a hint of glamor and cosmopolitan dining to Trevignano's lake front community. Located inside the Recostano Residence and Spa complex, Retro Gusto is becoming known for its imaginative cuisine and sophisticated ambience. Via Trevignanese Km. 6 Trevignano Romano tel 06 9997.701 Grotta Azzurra One of the most popular lakefront restaurants, on the lower level and terrace garden of beautiful turn-of-the-century palace, shaded by giant palm trees and surrounded with pots and beds of planted flowers, with a splendid lake view from both indoor and outside tables. Their specialty, fresh lake fish (coregone and lucio), is prepared grilled, baked or sautèed. Owner and chef, Signora Marcella experiments with vegetables and herbs gathered fresh daily from her garden, often presenting innovative aromatic combinations. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Tuesdays. Open for Christmas Eve lunch December 24. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, 18 (Lungo Lago) Trevignano Romano tel 06 9999 420 Acquarella This weekend family favorite has a lawn that slopes right down to the water's edge making a quick dip before or after a meal an enticement during the warmer months. It's a safe environment for young children. The interior space is designed to accommodate small groups or large parties. The menu is casareccia (home-cooking), sincluding everal pasta dish, fish, grilled meat and deserts. Closed Tuesdays. Via Anguillara Km6, Trevignano Romano tel 06 9985 131 Zaira The banquet-sized halls filled with lively family gatherings make Zaira less intimate than some other restaurants, but its terrace, raised high enough above lake level, offers a magnificent sunset view, or you can watch sailboats in the near distance as they file into the Anguillara inlet. The cuisine is characteristic of the area: fish and pasta. Friends return often for the same dish of pasta with broccoli and shrimp and a lovely grilled lake fish. For dessert, try a scrumptious serving of profiterole or almond pastry tart. After your meal, venture along the wharf to discover the little house at the end with a magical flower garden, a memorable postcard image you won' t forget. Closed Tuesdays and December 21 through January 20 Viale Reginaldo Belloni, 2 (Just meters beyond the city walls as you leave the town of Anguillara at its northwest entrance) tel 06 996 8082 Vino and Camino Probably the hippest eaterie on the lakefront, this small enoteca, with indoor and outdoor service, is in the piazza of Orsini-Odescalchi castle, looking onto its imposing medieval towers. The menu is varied and à la carte. Excellent choices are the spaghetti cacio e pepe, the petto di anatra (duck breast) sautèed with herbs and olive oil, Italian beans, cheeses, and the best homemade pear tart we've ever tasted. Fine wine list. Closed Mondays. Piazza Mazzini (Castle Orsini-Odescalchi), Bracciano tel 06 998 03 433 La Cacina Bianca An unpretentious family-run trattoria, very popular among the locals, good simple lake fish dish and great boscaiolo fettucine, carne alla brace. Large patio, busy on Sundays due to its super location opposite the beach. Good service. Reserve in advance for Sunday lunch. Closed Fridays 69 Via della Rena, Trevignano tel 06 999 7231 Il Vagone This trattoria-pizzeria has made a great feature of its location by posting a kitsch sculpture of a train master at its entrance. But the cuisine is genuine home-style Italian cooking, and owner Rosa and her daughter Daniela give guests a warm welcome. Prices are very reasonable. Closed Wednesdays. Open for Christmas lunch. Via Regina d'Italia 4, Bracciano (Leaving the rail station road walk the full length of via Odescalchi till the road heads with Via Regina.) tel 06 9980 3076 Il Bel Vedere da Mangasciar With an airy interior space and a wonderful view overlooking the lake, the restaurant specializes in the local cuisine: scottadita, carne alla brace, pastas. Decent prices. Closed Wednesdays and from December 15 through January 15 Via Umberto Primo 11, Anguillara Sabazio (Entering
Anguillara from the northwest, pass through the arch into the old town
flanked by the commune to your right and follow the characteristically
cobbled road that climbs toward the Collegiato) tel 06 9968035
If you prefer an ancient village to a lakeside excursion, try Formello, no more than 20 minutes from the city out the Corsia Francia.
La Taverna Dei Chigi This pizzeria and restaurant, located in Palazzo Chigi, one of Formello's historic architectural gems, offers its weekday crowd a fast version of slow food lunch, with a choice dishes, and a vegetable or salad at a fixed price. Try the home-made gnocchi or linguine cooked in wine are top menu choices. Decent wine list. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday. Via Sauro 2, Formello tel 06901 46926 Ristorante La Cantina Traditional local cuisine, with a daily menu written daily on a blackboard. Closed Wednesdays. Open for Christmas Day lunch. Via XX Settembre 17, Formello tel 06 9089553 Antichi Sapori Traditional menu ranging from a wide selection of antipasti and entrèes from warm broth to pastas, risotto, gnocchi, fish and meat. Dining indoors or in the garden. Open Christmas Eve, Christamas Day, New Year's Eve and New Year's Day. Via Castelli 6, Formello tel 06 9088899 www.antichisapori.it
