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CLASSICAL MUSIC |
At the Parco della MusicaVia Coubertin (Flaminio) tel 06 199 109 783 Homage to Messiaen: Quatuor pour la fin du temps Sandro Cappelletto narrator, Alessandro Carbonare clarinet, Carlo Maria Parazzoli violin, Gabriele Geminiani cello, Andrea Dindo piano Saturday, November 1, 9 pmMendelssohn's Elijah Orchestra and Chorus of the Accademia di Santa Cecilia Kurt Masur conductor, Malin Byström soprano, Mihoko Fujimura mezzo-soprano, Jorma Silvasti tenor, René Pape bass. Sunday, November 2, 6 pm; Monday, November 3, 9 pm; Tuesday, November 4, 7:30 pmQuartets for Piano and Strings Gautier Capuçon cello,Renaud Capuçon, violin, Antoine Tamestit viola, Nicholas Angelich piano Mahler: Quartet in A minor Fauré: Quartet in G minor op 45 Brahms: Quartet in G minor op. 25 Friday, November 7, 9 pm Orchestra dell'Accademia di Santa Cecilia Kurt Masur conductor, Sergey Khachtryan violin
Mendelssohn: Hebrides Overutre Mendelssohn: Concerto for Violin Mendelssohn: Symphony n. 3 "Scottish"Saturday, November 8, 6 pm; Monday, November 10, 9 pm; Tuesday, November 11, 7:30 pm Brunello Baroque Experience Cellist Mario Brunello plays suites and sonatas by Bach and Vivaldi. Friday, November 14, 8:30 pm La Risonanza Fabio Bonizzoni conductor, Roberta Invernizzisoprano, Yetzabel Arias Fernandez soprano, Romina Bassocontralto
Händel: Italian cantatas Da quel giorno fatale (Delirio amoroso) and Cor fedele (Clori, Tirsi e Fileno) Friday, November 21, 8:30 pm Orchestra of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa CeciliaTugan Sokhiev conductor, Enrico Dindo cello soloistRimsky-Korsakov: Russian EasterTchaikovsky: Variations on a Rococo ThemeProkofiev: Symphony n 5 op 100Saturday. November 22, 6 pm; Monday, November 24, 9 pm; Tuesday, November 25, 7:30 pm Christian Zacharias piano Haydn: Sonata in F majorSchumann: HumoresqueSchubert: Momenti musicali Haydn: Sonata in D major
Friday, November 28, 8:30 pm Orchestra e Coro dell'Accademia Nazionale di Santa CeciliaRafael Frühbeck de Burgos, conductor, Annick Massis soprano, Lucas Meachem mezzo-soprano, Celso Albelo tenorDebussy: Trois Nocturnes Orff: Carmina Burana Saturday, November 29, 6 pm; Monday, December 1, 9 pm; Tuesday, November 2, 7:30 pm
At the Aula Magna Piazzale Aldo Moro (San Lorenzo) tel 06 49 91Gabriele Pieranunzi violin Laura Manzini piano
The "Sonata a Kreutzer" tra Beethoven e Tolstoj
Friday, November 7, 11 am
I Soloisti Veneti
Claudio Scimone, conductor with Simon Stancius flute of Pan and Paolo Grazia oboe
Music by Rossini, Vivaldi, Cimarosa, Pasculli, Morricone, Paganini, Bartok
Saturday, November 8, 5:30 pm
Roberto Cominati piano
Music by Schumann, Ravel, Chopin
Saturday, November 15, 5:30 pm Matthias Goerne baritone and Alexander Schmalcz piano
Schubert RecitalSunday, November 22, 5:30 pm
I Fagiolini
Music by Monteverdi, Castello
Shlomo Mintz violin with Torleif Torgersen piano
Music by Martinu, Donhányi, Brahms, Skoumal, Bazzini
Saturday, November 29, 5:30 pm At the Auditorium della ConciliazioneVia della Conciliazione (near the Vatican) tel 899 5000 55Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma Luigi Nono: Como una ola de fuerza ya luz for soprano, piano, orchestra and magnetic tape. Stravinski: Le Sacre du Printemps Sunday, November 9, 5:30 pm and Monday, November 10, 8:30 pm Schumann: Symphony n. 3, op. 97 Bruckner: Symphony no. 3 in D minor "Wagner"Sunday, November 16, 5:30 pm and Monday, November 17, 8:30 pm
A. Casella: Triple concerto, op. 56 for piano, cello and orchetra Dvorak: Symphony n. 4 in G major, op. 88 Sunday, November 23, 5:30 pm and Monday, November 24, 8:30 pm Mendelssohn: Douple concert for violin, piano and orchestra H.P. Dott: Pasacaglia Lizst: Tasso Sunday, November 30, 5:30 pm and Monday, December 1, 8:30 pm
At the Villa Medici Accademia di Francia, Viale Trinità dei Monti tel 06 67 611 Schubert: Die Schöne Mullerin Baritone Bruno Taddia and pianist Andrea Corazziari Wednesday, November 12, 9 pm Beethoven Sonatas Giovanni Bellucci continues his project of performing all the Beethoven sonatas, as well as the Lizst transcriptions of all nine symphonies. Thursday, November 13, 9 pm
POPULAR MUSIC
Rome Jazz Festival The 32nd annual event at the Parco della Musica encompasses 20 concerts involving more than 200 aritsts. This year's festival has three sections: Focus on the orchestra (the big band sound of the 1940s to the avant-garde music of today), Important themes, Events and Premieres (presenting new talent and showcasing some of the biggest names in jazz). tel 199 109 783
Count Basie Orchestra Sala Sinopoli, Wednesday, November 5, 9 pm Terez Montcalm "Voodoo Tour" Sala Petrassi, Friday, November 7, 9 pm Parco della Musica Jazz Orchestra "Duke Ellington Memorial Concert" Sala Sinopoli, Saturday, November 8, 9 pm Chihiro Yamanaka "Piano solo" Teatro Studio, Tuesday, November 11, 9 pm Milton Nascimento, Jobim Trio "Novas Bossas" Sala Santa Cecilia, Wednesday, November 12, 9 pm Globe Unity Orchestra Sala Sinopoli, Thursday, November 13, 9 pm Gershwin "Porgy and Bess" Orchestra and Chorus of the Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia, conducted by Wayne Marshall Sala Santa Cecilia, Saturday, November 15, 6 pm; Monday, November 17, 9 pm; Tuesday, November 18, 7:30 pm Zapping: Furio Di Castri Qunitet and the TJL Orchestra Sala Sinopoli, Saturday, November 15, 9 pm Chick Corea & John McLaughlin "Five Peace Band" Sala Santa Cecilia, Sunday, November 16, 9 pm Gianluca Petrella Cosmic Band Sala Petrassi, Monday, November 17, 9 pm Paolo Fresu, Ralph Towner Sala Sinopoli, Wednesday, November 19, 9 pm Italian Instabile Orchestra Sala Sinopoli, Thursday, November 20, 9 pm Solar Orchestra Teatro Studio, Friday, November 21, 9 pm Sun Ra Arkestra Sala Sinopoli, Saturday, November 22, 9 pm Orchestra Napoletana Jazz Sala Petrassi, Sunday, November 23, 11 am Yael Naim "New Soul" Sala Sinopoli, Monday, November 24, 9 pm Herbie Hancock Sextet featuring Terence Blanchard Sala Santa Cecilia, Wednesday, November 26, 9 pm Roy Paci, Frank London, Boban Markovic Boban Markovic Orkestar Sala Santa Cecilia, Thursday, November 27, 9 pm Hr Bigband, Gary Husband, Colin Towns Meeting of the Spirits (A celebration of the Mahavishnu Orchestra) Sala Petrassi, Saturday, November 29, 9 pm Berna Touch Point Orchestra, Enrico Pieranunzi Sala Petrassi, Sunday, November 30, 11 am
Negramaro: La Finestra Tour The popular Italian rock band Pallolottomatico (Eur) Friday-Saturday, November 14-15, 9 pm Paolo Conte in concertThe living legend, on the ocassion of the release of his latest album. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina (Spanish Steps)
Tuesday-Sunday, November 18-23 Gianni Morandi: Grazie a Tutti One of Italy's most popular performers Tenda Lotto, Piazzale Clodio (Prati) Friday, November 21, Saturday, November 22; Tuesday, November 25; Wednesday, November 26. All shows at 9 pm Claudio Baglioni: Questo Piccolo Grande Amore One of the greatest of the Italian popular singers, with a long and illustrious career to his credit. Granteatro Viale di Tor di Quinto tel 06 33270050 Wednesday, November 26- Sunday, November 30, 9 pm Tracy Chapman Auditorium della Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4 (near the Vatican) Saturday, November 29, 9 pm

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OPERA, DANCE & THEATER
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Gaguku Traditional Japanese Court dance and music. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Teatro Studio Monday, November 10, 9 pm tel 199 109 783
At the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma Piazza Beniamino Gigli (Esquilino) tel 06 48 16 02 55
Strauss: Der Rosenkavalier A new, co-production with the Theatre du Capital de Tolosa. In German with Italian supertitles. Wednesday, November 12, 8:30 pm; Thursday, November 13, 8:30 pm; Friday, November 14, 8:30 pm; Tuesday, November 18, 8:30 pm; Saturday, November 15, 6 pm
RomaEuropa Festival The international festival of contemporary music, dance and theater continues. Infoline: 06 455 530 55 www.romaeuropa.net
In I: Akram Khan and Juliette Binoche The Academy Award-winning actress has been collaborating intensely with the celebrated choreographer to create this piece. Teatro Olimpico, Piazzza Gentile da Fabriano (Flaminio) tel 06 326 5991 Wednesday, November 5-Saturday, November 8 Muta Imago: Lev A multi-media production using images and movement, employing the device of the diary pages of Lev
Zasetsky, a Russian soldier and patient of the neuropsychiatrist
Alexander Lurja, to discuss the human condition and our incessant attempt to rebuild what has been lost. Teatro Palladium, Piazza B. Romano 8 (Garbatella) Friday-Saturday, November 7-8, 8:30 pm; Sunday, November 9, 5 pm Compagnia del Natan Kairali Kutiyattum: Sakuntala The classic Sanskirt drama, presenting by this leading Indian company. In the original language with Italian supertitles. Teatro Palladium, Piazza B. Romano 8 (Garbatella) Parts I-III: Thursday-Saturday, November 13-15, 8:30 pm; all three parts Sunday, November 16, 2:30-5 pm, 6-8:30 pm, 9:30 pm-midnight. Compagnie Montalvo-Hervieu: Gershwin The Candian company integrates movement with projections in a highly entertaining melange, using the visual world of the Broadway musical and Hollywood movies of the 1930s. Auditorium della Conciliazione, via della Conciliazione 4 (near the Vatican) Friday-Saturday, November 14-15, 8:30 pm Nine Finger Through the eyes of a child soldier somewhere in Africa, we look at the perversity of war as the two dancers tell the story. Benjamin Verdonck, a physical actor, and Fumiyo Ikeda, a dramatic dancer, with producer and choreographer Alain Platel. Teatro Palladium, Piazza B. Romano, 8 (Garbatella) Thursday-Saturday, November 20-22, 8:30 pm ; Sunday, November 23, 5 pm Emanuel Gat: Silent Ballet/Sixty Four IN Silent Ballet, the extraodinary Israeli dancer-choreographer, using a soundtrack of his own composition, forces movement to concentrate on itself. In Sixty Four, a female dancer interacts with four male dancers against the musical backdrop of Bach's Die Kunst der Fuge. Auditorium della Conciliazione, via della Conciliazione, 4 Friday, November 28, 8:30 pm Accademia degli Artefatti: One Day A 24-hour show subtitled, "finally to live in service to something." Using music, movement, and theater. Teatro Palladium, Piazza B. Romano, 8 (Garbatella) Saturday, November 29, 5 pm to Sunday, November 30, 5pm Golden Circus Part of the International Rome Circus Festival Tendastrice Saturday, November 13-Sunday, November 30
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ART
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Da Rembrandt a Vermeer Valori Civili nella pittura fiamminga e olandese From Rembrandt to Vermeer - Civil values in Flemish and Dutch Painting An exhibition is dedicated to the Golden Age of Flemish and Dutch painting examines the development of domestic interiors in genre painting, depicting familiar scenes of domestic intimacy while giving testimony to a renewed social content and civil value of Holland during 1600's. A selection of 55 paintings include masterful works of Rembrandt, Vermeer, Ruebens, Franz Hals, Gerard ter Borch, Pieter de Hooch, Jacobsz van Ruisdale, Anton van Dyck and others. Museo Del Corso, via del Corso 320 Sunday - Saturday 10am - 8pm; November 10 through February 15 De Chirico e il museo This exhibition goes beyond retrospective to balance a theme not often confronted in DeChirico's work, examining the complex relationship DeChirico negotiated between art of the past and his own innovative style. Gnam - Galleria Nazionale D'Arte Moderna, Viale Delle Belle Arti (Parioli) Tuesday - Sunday 9am - 7pm; November 19 through January 25 Giovanni BelliniThe first major exhibition of the work of 15th century Venetian master Giovanni Bellini, since 1949, Bellii helped transform Venice into a major center of Renaissance art. Bellini's extraordinary pale d'altare is among the more than 70 works selected. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16 Sunday - Thursday 10 am -8 pm; Friday - Saturday 10 am - 10:30 pm; through January 11Bruno MunariArtist, graphic and industrial designer, Munari was one of the great innovators of the 20th century. The exhibition is comprised of 150 objects in various media.Museo dell'Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta Tuesday - Sunday 9 am - 7 pm; October 9 through February 22 Domenico ManganoAn exhibition of works Mangano's art from the sculture povere and minimali periods to recent photographs taken in New York, Miami and Marfa, Texas. Museo Henrik Andersen, Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini 20 (Flaminio)Tuesday - Sunday 9 am - 7 pm; through November 16Marco Delogu - Noir et BlancThe first public showing of 70 black and white photographs by the internationally known photographer and curator.Accademia di Francia, Villa Medici, Viale Della Trinità Dei Monti 1 (Spanish Steps)Tuesday - Sunday 11 am-7 pm; through December 8 tel 06 6751291 L'Apollo di MantovaFor a generous length of time, visitors will have a rare opportunity to view the Apollo di Mantova, a marble statue of the pesky Greek God dating from the second century, during the reign of Imperatore Adriano (117 - 138A.D.). This is the first collaboration between the Capitoline Museums and "Ospitando", a newly-formed cultural organization designed to encourage the exchange of rare master works between national museumsMusei Capitolini , Piazza Del Campidoglio 1Tuesday - Sunday, 9 am - 8 pm; through January 6 Lisette ModelIn homage to the photographer called the "portraitist of intimacy", a selection of 100 photographs includes Model's images as well as those of other photographers who carried on in the tradition for which she is known.Museo di Roma Trastevere, Piazza Di Sant'Egidio 1b Tuesday - Sunday, 11 am - 7 pm; through November 2 tel 06 581 6563Bill ViolaAmerican media artist Bill Viola (1951 - ) has been a pioneer in establishing video art as an important artistic expression of contemporary artPalazzo degli Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194 (Esquilino)Tuesday - Sunday, 10 am - 7 pm; through January 6 tel 06 489 9411Etruschi. Le antiche metropolis del LazioThis exhibition is devoted to the ties between four ancient cities in the Etruscan kingdom that left a resounding cultural impact on the Etruscan civilization and Rome, its religious practices and the iconography that symbolized its power. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194 (Esquilino)Tuesday - Sunday, 10 am - 7 pm; January 6 tel 06 489 9411Giulio CesareThis exhibition chronicles Giulio Cesare's rise to power while examining the social, political and cultural influences that impacted Egypt and Rome during the time of his reign. Ambiente Dart - Chiostro Del Bramante; Via Della Pace (near Piazza Navona)Tuesday - Friday, 10 am - 8 pm; Saturday - Sunday, 10 - 9 pm; through April 5 
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 GETAWAYS: Recession-Proof Rome In this time of economic downturn, Rome can still be affordable. To
help with your budget plans, we've compiled a list of good hotels and
restaurants, all good value for the price.
Budget Lodging
Hotel Parlamento Via delle Convertite 5, tel 06 699 21000 www.hotelparlamento.it This unassuming little family-run hotel on the top two floors of a sixteenth-century palazzo has two major selling points: the location, just near the Spanish Steps, and the lovely roof garden. The 23 rooms themselves are comfortable enough, equipped with hair-dryer,
satellite TV, safe, direct intercontinental dialing and air conditioning is available (at an additional €12 per day).
Singles start at €80, doubles at €90. Hotel Pincio Via Capo le Case, 50 tel 06 6790758 www.hotelpincio.com Another small and family-run hotel, with a great location between the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain. Rooms are a bit sparsely decorated, but they offer air
conditioning, telephone, mini bar, satellite
TV, hair dryer, safe deposit box, and Internet connection. The roof garden has offers a charming view of roof tops and bell towers. Singles and doubles start at €110. Hotel Campo de' Fiori via del Biscione 46 tel 06 68806865 www.hotelcampodefiori.it A bit more expensive, but a great value for the price, the hotel has been recently restored and redecorated, with beautiful tiled bathrooms, really tastefully furnished rooms and a wonderful roof garden. Singles start at €129, doubles at €169 Hotel Teatro di Pompeo Largo del Pallaro 8 tel 06 687 2812 www.hotelteatrodipompeo.it Just off the Campo de' Fiori, built on on the remains of the ancient Roman
Pompey's Theatre dating back to the year 55 B.C., a simple but comfortable budget hotel, with a nice little lobby bar. Breakfast is served in a very atmospheric underground room with the original Roman walls. You'll feel like you're in a cave. There is a small three-room annex just down the street. Some of the rooms have the old beamed wooden ceilings, and all offer air-conditioning, minibar, radio and TV and telephone. Singles start at €140, doubles at €180 Villa della Fonte Guest House Via della Fonte dell'Olio, 8 tel 06 580 3797 www.villafonte.com Barely visible from the street, you'll have to look for the name on the buzzer, but you are only a few feet away from the magnificent Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. It's tiny, just five rooms up a narrow staircase, but always booked long in advance because of the great quality for the price. Simple and elegant, with clean, airy rooms and a lovely rooftop terrace. Have a glass of wine in the public room before going out in the evening. It's a secret gem. Rooms have air-conditioning, hairdryer and e free Wi-Fi internetconnection, telephone, satellite TV, mini bar and safe.
Many former convents now provide affordable lodging for the budget traveler, offering accommodations from the spartan to the luxurious.
Casa San Giuseppe Vicolo Moroni 22 www.casasangiuseppe.it Run by the sisters, this clean and comfortable 25 room hotel in the heart of Trastevere is a favorite of visitors to the Vatican, but it's a steal of a deal for any traveler. Very friendly and helpful with an English-speaking front desk. Starting at about €100. Casa Per Ferie Santa Maria alle Fornaci Piazza S. Maria alle Fornaci, 27 tel 39 06 3936 76 32 www.trinitaridematha.it This religious guesthouse just a stone's throw from St. Peter's Basilica is spartan but clean, comfortable and inexpensive. The history of the monastery dates to 1198 when its founder, Padre Giovanni Matha, member of the order of Trinitarian monks decided to establish place of hospitality to offset the military mindset that had descended on the city in the wake of two Crusades. The monastery offers many of the amenities found in two-star hotels, such as multi-lingual concierge service, elevator, sound-proof windows, conference area, TV area, Internet facility and fax- Singles €70, doubles €100. Istituto Immacolata Concezione Nostra Signore di Lourdes Via Sistina 113 tel 06 474 5324 Run by a group of mostly elderly nuns, the feeling is very old world and unpretentious. Don't expect much more than clean rooms, as renovation has not been a budget priority. Little English is and if you're a late-nighter, the convent's 10:30 curfew could pose a problem. But the location, just at the top of the Spanish Steps, is unbeatable. Cash requested upon arrival. Singles with bath €50, doubles €75 Santa Brigida Via Monteserato 54 tel 06 688 92596 www.brigidine.org The 14th century Swedish saint, Santa Brigida (1303-1373) lived and died here. The nuns, with their identifiable iconography of little crowns of crossed white bands topping their black habits are known for their friendliness and welcome guests from all religious creeds. The rooms, each with private bath and pleasantly decorated with antiques. No TV. Hand-crafted images of the Madonna hang over most beds. This is one of the most charming and well-kept convent guest houses in Rome's historic center, with a charming roof garden overlooking Piazza Farnese near Campo de'Fiori. The adjacent chapel is a must visit. Book well in advance. About €100. Villa Domus Sessoriana Hotel Piazza Santa Croce in Gerusalemme, 10 tel 06 706151 www.domussessoriana.it Located within the monastery complex of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme , stone's throw from the Basilica San Giovanni in Laterano, the hotel is a great value for the price. Like many monasteries, Villa Domus traces its history to the middle ages. The villa, which has the comforts of small luxury hotel, is decorated with historic paintings .while the adjacent museum houses the monastery's precious treasures, decorated Bibles and liturgical objects dating from the period of the Crusades. Sixty rooms of varying sizes, air-conditioning, bar, restaurant (open only for large groups) handicap facilities, satellite TV, minibar, telephone, Wi-Fi Internet. Priced per person at €70 to €93.
Budget Restaurants Even on a tight budget, you don't have to limit yourself to pizzerie.
Da Gino Cavaliere Gino has been a favourite lunch stop for staff at the nearby Parliament since 1963. Tucked away on a small street no wider than a medieval alley, Gino, with the help of his son Fabrizio, continues to offer the classic cucina romanesca: tonnarelli (a long pasta prepared fresh daily) alla ciociara, cacio e pepe, carbonara, spaghetti alle vongole, or a fresh scomorza alla brace for non meat eaters. If you've room for an entreè try the lamb with roasted potatoes, rabbit simmered in white wine or the succulent trippa alla romana. Vicolo Rosini, 4 (historic center near Parliament) tel 06 687 3434 Open for lunch only Hostaria Dino Express A typical Italian restaurant, inexpensive and genuine, no bigger than a kitchen with few tables, and a relatively quick turnover. You'll need to get there early or be prepared to queue up. The menu is simple, traditional home cooking; vegetable soup, saltimboocca al timone, carpaccio di carne con rughetta, prosciutto e melone, lasagne, pasta e cecci and polpette. Our favourite is always the ossobuco, a Roman dish prepared with veal, tomato sauce and peas. Via Tacito, 80 Prati (near Piazza Cavour) tel 06 361 0305 Open for lunch only Enoteca Corsi This legendary trattoria, and its adjacent wine store, are legendary in Rome, a favorite for quick lunch and as authentic as you can get. You'll be seated at a long table with other diners and the waiter will recite the menu to you, which limited but always delicious. The place is always packed so get there early. via del Gesù 87 (near the Pantheon) tel 06 679 0821 Open for lunch only. Closed Sunday. L'Osteria della Suburra This small restaurant some of the best home made pastas in Rome. The ambiece is very laid back and relaxing. The fettucine with porcini mushrooms is amazing, but if you'd something more adventureous, try the wild boar pasta. A good deal in the €10 to €15 price range. For dessert try the home-made tiramisu. The servers are super friedly and most of them speak English. Via Urbana 69 (Prati, near the Cavour Metro B stop) Open daily for dinner only tel 06 486 531 Sora Margherita There's usually a line waiting to get into this tiny place, because the food is so good and the prices so low. Find Roman specialities here cooked to perfection, pastas, fried artichokes, usually an entrée of the day. Piazza delle Cinque Scuole 30 (Ghetto) tel 06 687 4216 Open for lunch only Tuesday- Friday; lunch and dinner Friday and Saturday Bar da Benito Located in the old Ghetto, this bar/restaurant offers delicious food at a bargain price. The waiters are super quick to clear the tables and get you ready to eat in no time. Primi plates average a low €4,50, secondi range from €4,50 to €7, 50, and desserts are only €3. While this is no romantic spot, the food is extremely good and cheap. Via dei Falegnami 14, ( Ghetto) Open Monday - Saturday, 6:30 am-7 pm. Closed in August. tel 06 686 1508 Capo de Fero One of Rome's few remaining authentic trattorie, this place has been in business for decades, and the low prices and high quality remain the same. Here you can have a lovely meal in a charming setting for a very decent price. The speciality is "rigatoni democratici." No one can remember how the dish got its name, but it's a wonderful pasta in a delicious creamy cheese sauce. The antipasto buffet is expansive and full of all the Roman specialities, perfectly prepared. They also do a wonderful pasta alla carbonaraas well as a variety of grilled fish and meats, and offer a nice selection of cakes and puddings for dessert. Outside tables during the warmer months. Via San Cosimato, 16 tel 06 581 8038 Closed Wednesdays. Pancotto This family-run traditional Roman trattoria is the real thing, filled with local Romans who come for the good, unpretentious, traditional cuisine, pleasant atmosphere and reasonable prices. Outside tables on the Viale di Trastevere attract the foot-weary tourists as well as the locals. In addition to the pastas, try the full-flavored chicken marinated with Gaeta olives. And, of course, one of their speciaities is panna cotta, a cooked cream pudding to die for. Open everyday for lunch and dinner. Viale di Trastevere, 8-14 (near Ponte Garibaldi) tel. 06. 5806334 Est! Est! Est! The young Roman crowd, smoking and talking on their cell phones in the street while they wait for a table, attests to the popularity of this historic Rome restaurant and pizzeria, which has been serving the hungry since 1888. In warmer months, there's a patio, set out at the end of the cul de sac street, with a decidedly "old Rome" atmosphere. Inside, not much has changed over the decades. The old wooden tables, vintage lighting and bronze statues are all still in place. The pizza is typically Roman, thin crusted with all the traditional toppings. The menu also includes calzone and pasta. € Via Genova, 32 tel. 06.488 1107 Closed Monday and at lunch.

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