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Rome is a Summer Festival
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Events l Classical Music l Popular Music l Dance & Opera l Art l Restaurants Open in August l Getaways: Lake Bolsena
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Ferragosto
The Roman feriae Augusti was a festival of eating, drinking and sexual excess, for patricians, plebians, servants and slaves alike, which reached its frenzied peak on the ides of Augusti, our August 15th. Enter the Catholic church. So popular was the festival that the church was unable to stamp it out, pagan though it may have been. So in the sixth century AD, it was decided that August 15th would be the celebration of the Feast of the Assumption, when the Virgin Mary's body and soul were assumed into heaven. Centuries later, the festival known as Ferragosto marks an almost mandatory exodus from Rome, and not for a day, but for at least a two weeks of vacation time. In fact, for many, the holiday extends to include the entire month. Most restaurants are closed. Many shops are closed. Some movie theaters close for the month. Even the supermarket can be appallingly barren.
If you stay in Rome for the month — or if you choose to visit the Eternal City in August, it may seem a bit deserted. The activities of the Estate Romana festival are all but over by August 10th. The good news is that there are few crowds, almost no traffic. And we're here to help you find what's still going on. Once again this year, we give you our guide to good restaurants that remain open, and a listing of the month's events. Enjoy!
Estate Romana: The 30th Anniversary Season
The Estate Romana, Rome's summer festival, now in its 30th year, is in full swing this month, with outdoor events throughout the city. In this month's newsletter, we've given you the highlights for the month of August, with links for more information.
On the banks of the Tiber
Castel Sant Angelo
There are few views in the world more breathtaking than those from the terraces of the Castel Sant'Angelo. On summer nights, they're open for eating a meal, having a drink or a gelato. There are sales and exhibitions of "made in Italy" foods and gold jewelry clowns, games and puppets, folk music and cabaret. www.castelsantangelo.com Il Portal Meanwhile, below the castle along the river banks, there's a beach! Sand has been brought in, two swimming pools installed, and palm trees placed make it all seem real.Roma Er Tevere in Trastevere
Along the banks of the Tiber from Ponte Sisto to Ponte Rotto and on the Tiberina island, there's a nightly festival of shops, restaurants, music, dancing. You can have a beer and a healthy plate of food, at a riverside table overlooking the rushing waters. An outdoor cinema is set up on the island, although the films are all in Italian. http://www.marsiliniziative.com
Sotto il Celio: Archeology and Theater
In the archeological site beneath the Basilica dei SS Giovanni e Paolo al Celio archeologists provide an evening guided tour (in Italian)of the excavations restored and reopened in 2002, of ancient Roman houses, giving visitors a taste of Roman life from the third century AD to the middle ages, and a peek into Pagan and Early Christian rituals. The tours, which last 90 minutes, take place Thursdays through Saturdays, through September 30 On the Clivio di Scauro, at the Piazza San Gregorio near the Coliseum. €6. Tours in English are available on request. For reservations tel 06.70.45.45.44 www.caseromane.it
Una Notte al Bioparco (A Night at the Zoo)
During the summer months, the zoo (on the grounds of the Villa Borghese, Parioli side), opens at night, allowing visitors to observe them without disturbing their sleep. Eleven theatrical performances depict the animal world by night. Thursday-Sunday, 9 pm-midnight, through August 12. €10 www.bioparco.it
Caput Lucis:Fireworks Competition
Sure, the sales are on, but you have an even better reason to drive out to the Valmontone outlet mall. This week the mall hosts an international fireworks competition. You can have dinner at any of the several restaurants on the grounds of the mall. And there is a special area for small children. Entrance fee is €10. Best to buy in advance to avoid the crowds. Take the A1 (Rome-Naples) about 35 km to the Valmontone exit. Trains run frequently to Valmontone from the Termini station.
Wednesday, August 1: Vacaluzzo, winner in both 2005 and 2006 kicks off the event.
Thursday, August 2:
Italy fires off against Malta
Friday, August 3:
China, the birthplace of fireworks, against Romania
Saturday, August 4:
Japan vs Solvenia
Sunday, August 5:
England vs Spain
www.caputlucis.com
A new disco Bus rolls out to Ostia
Rome's clubs move outdoors in the summer, and the scene is heavy along the beach at Ostia. The problem is that many party types drink too much, then attempt to drive back into town with disastrous results. In its wisdom, our Rome city government has innaugurated a series of disco buses, each equipped with a dj of note, to take club goers to Ostia and back. The buses are free, and the bus ticket gives you free entrance into many of the beach discos. Buses run Friday and Saturday beginning at 10:30 pm and can be picked up in town at Porta Portese, Piazzale Flaminio, Piazza San Giovanni in Laterano, and other locations.
www.estatesicura.it
Teatro Marcello
A nightly summer concert series in an archeological site, one of the greatest theaters in ancient Rome, begun by Caesar. Later, Augustus dedicated it to the memory of his nephew and son-in-law, Marcellus. Piano recitals and chamber concerts nightly at 8:30 pm
Via del Teatro di Marcello (on the edge of the Ghetto)
€15 www.tempietto.it
Mille e Una Notte
A concert series in the courtyard of Bramante's magnificent Chiostro. Via della Pace, near Piazza Navona. August 5-22, 9 pm, €15 www.milleunanota.org
Sunday, August 5: Opening concert, an all-Chopin program performed by pianist Antonio Sardi de Letto
Wednesday, August 8: Music of the Cinema, feautring works by Armando Trovajoli, Nino Rota, Ennio Morricone and Nicola Piovani, performed by violinist Antonio Cordici and guitarist Fabio de Portu.
Sunday, August 12: “Alegría de um Violão,” a recital by guitarist Stefano Mingo with music by João Pernambuco, Heitor Villa-Lobos. Garoto, Baden Powell, Tom Jobim
Wednesday, August 15: Concerto for Ferragosto with violinist Paolo Chiavacci and pianist Adriano Tumiatti. Music by Mozart, Schumann, Gershwin, Bartòk
Sunday, August 19: Quintetto Bottesini with pianist Linda Di Carlo. Schubert's String Quintet "The Trout" and “Cuatro estaciones portenas” by Astor Piazzola.
Wednesday, August 22: Beethoven's letters, read by Roberto Braida, with pianist Giovanni Bietti providing musical illustrations.
Popular, Jazz and World Music
Villa Ada
Roma Incontra il Mondo (Rome Meets the World)
The Villa Ada, on Rome's northern edge, is surrounded by a big park with beautiful paths, a lake and a sylvan atmosphere. As always, this summer's festival features and eclectic mix of ethnic and folk music from all over the world.
through August 5. Park opens at 8 pm. Concerts begin at 10 pm. www.villaada.org
Remaining concerts:
Eugenio Bennato "Sponda Sud" (Naples) Friday, August 3, €8
Nando Citarella and I Tamburi del Vesuvio (Naples), Saturday, August 4 €8
Closing Concert with Daniele Sepe and Rote Jazz Fraktion & Freak Orchestra (Naples) Sunday, August 5 €10
Villa Celemontana Jazz Festival
The longest jazz festival in Europe, the event combines concerts with art exhibitions at a historic villa surrounded by gardens. The best-known players in Italian jazz, plus some international acts and a few big names.
Gates to the villa grounds open at 9 pm, concerts begin at 10:15 pm.
Concerts continue through August 14.
tel 06 589 7807 http://www.villacelimontanajazz.com
Casa del Jazz
On the grounds of a lovely villa, with a restaurant serving brunch, dinner and drinks on the patio. Summer concerts on the lawns through August 25.
Viale di Porta Ardeatina, 55 (near the Baths of Caracalla) Concerts at 9 pm through August 25.
Tickets tel. 199.10.97.83, information 06.704731, restaurant 06 700 8370 www.casadeljazz.itVillaggio Incontro: At the EUR Laghetto
An outdoor concert series at the artificial lake in the Eur district (via Cristoforo Colombo at the Parco delle Cascate). Along the lake, you'll also find the summer Gay Village, open through September 2, with dancing and bars. www.gayvillage.it
www.laghettolive.itIppodromo delle Capannelle
Fiesta!
Via Appia Nuova 1245
On Rome's south side, at the site of the city's racetrack. €20-10 www.fiesta.it
The festival closes August 8, with headliner Willie Colon.Giardino degli Aranci: Roman Melodies
Roman melodies, stories and legends, performed in traditional costume, by Paolo Gatti, musician and storyteller with the voices of Giorgia Fini, Simona Spadaccia and Elisabetta Tulli. The second half of the program is devoted to the music of Italy's "cantautori," in the rich tradition of the singer-songwriter: Claudio Baglioni, Francesco De Gregori, Amadeo Minghi
Giardini degli Aranci, Via di Santa Sabina (Ostiense) Nightly at 9 pm; through August 15 €14 www.melodieromane.itClick any of the links below to jump directly to that section
Teatro dell'Opera alle Terme di Caracalla
The summer season presented out of doors, against the magnificent backdrop of Caracalla's sumptuous ancient baths.
All performances at 9 pm €110-25 tel 06 481 60255 or 06 481 7003 www.operaroma.it
August 3, 5, 9: Puccini's Turandot
August 8-14: Leoncavallo's opera Pagliacci and the Prokoviev ballet, Romeo and Juliet Suite
The Miracle Players: Ceasar-More Than Just a Salad
The comedy group reprises one of their most popular productions in which they take the complicated story of Caesar’s rise and demise and have turned it into forty minutes of comic mayhem. Written by Denise McNee, based on the words of the classical Roman authors such as Suetonius, Cassius Dio, Cicero , Caesar himself, and of course, Shakespeare. Performed against the backdrop of the ancient Roman Forum, With Frances Bachman, Dyanne White, Rob Allyn, Eric Massanesi, Denise McNee.
At the Foro Romana, Tuesdays and Fridays, 7:30 pm; June 22-August 10. tel 06 703 93427 www.miracleplayers.org
Shakespeare in Italian at the Globe Theater
On the grounds of the Villa Borghese stands an astonishing sight, an accurate recreation of Shakespeare's Globe Theater. On summer nights, one can hear the bard's words in productions translated into Italian. Re-read the plays before you go, sit back and enjoy the spectacle. Performances at 9 pm €20-7 tel 06 820 59127 www.globetheatreroma.com
Tuesday-Sunday, August 7-19: A Winter's Tale
Tuesday-Sunday, August 25-September 6: Julius CeasarQuercia del Tasso
This little amphitheater, built into the side of the Gianicolo hill, with all of Rome below it, presents plays in Italian throughout the summer, the highlight is always a comedy by classic Roman playwright Plauto. www.anfiteatroquerciadeltasso.com
Wednesday-Saturday, through September 1: Plauto's Miles Gloriosus
Pirandelliana
If there's any theater you should try to catch in the original Italian, it's the work of the absurdist playwright Luigi Pirandello (1867-1936), winner of the 1934 Nobel Prize in Literature. Each summer his plays are performed in the garden of the Basilica di Sant'Alessio at the Aventine.Piazza S. Alessio 23 €12 tel 06 662 0982 www.labottegadellemaschere.it
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, through August 4: Sei Personaggi in Cerca d'Autore
One of Pirandello's most beloved comedies, written in 1921.
Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, through August 5: I Giganti della Montagna, a rarely performed, unfinished work written near the end of Pirandello's life in 1932.Mozart 22 at the Casa del Cinema
The Casa del Cinema is located in a villa on the grounds of the Borghese Gardens. Inside you'll find projection rooms, a library, a cafe, and a 2,500 DVD library with 24 Toshiba laptops available for viewing movies in private cubicles. The auditorium shows both new and vintage films, sometimes in English. It's possible to purchase an "Amici Casa del Cinema" card, which gets you into the screenings and gives you preferred treatment when reserving space to view DVD's. To get there, enter the Borghese Gardens at the top of Via Veneto (Piazzale del Brasile) and proceed to Largo Marcello Mastroianni. For info call 06 423601.
www.casadelcinema.it
In 2006, during Mozart's 250th birthday celebration year, all 22 operas by Mozart were performed at the Salzburg Festival, and all 22 performances were filmed in high definition, using 5.1 Dolby Digital sound. This summer, the movies will be screened at the Casa del Cinema in the Villa Borghese, in a month long marathon.
It took a crew of 160 people 53 days to film all the operas, with 50,000 meters of cable criss crossing the city of Salzburg. The productions range from the whimsical to the avant garde, and many of the operas are barely known. When have you seen Apollo et Hyancinthus or Ascanio in Alba or the sacred opera Betulia liberata? Mozart began composing operas at the age of 11 and his output was prodigious. All the operas have been given excellent productions, and some have stellar casts. For example, the Cosi fan tutte features the Wiener Philharmoniker conducted by Thomas Allen with Helen Donath, Ana María Martínez , Sophie Koch, Shawn Mathey and Stéphane Degout. Ramon Vargas stars in Idomeneo, Rene Papé in the Magic Flute, Thomas Hampson in Don Giovanni. The complete recordings were released, individually and as a boxed set of DVDs, by Decca/Deutsche Grammaphon. www.deutschegrammophon.com/mozart22
Screenings at 9:30 pm
€18
Magic Flute, August 1
Abduction from the Seraglio, August 2
Apollo et Hyacinth, August 6
La Finta Giardiniera, August 7
Idomeneo, August 8
Il Re Pastore, August 9
Il Sogno di Scipione, August 13
La Finta Semplice, August 14
Anne Murray in a gala presentation of arias and instrumental works, August 15
Rex Tremendous, a double bill of the buffa works Lo Sposo Deluso and L'Oca del Cairo, August 16
Lucio Silla August 20
Mitridate, re di Ponto, August 21
Ascanio in Alba, August 22
L'obbligo del primo comandamento, August 23
Zaide, August 27
Bastien und Bastienne, August 28
Betulia liberta, August 29Click any of the links below to jump directly to that section
Events l Classical Music l Popular Music l Dance & Opera l Art l Restaurants Open in August l Getaways: Lake Bolsena
Obiettivo Vietnam
An exhibition that traces the evolving face of Vietnam through the work of four Vietnamese photographers: Duong Minh Long, Long Thanh, Hoang Xuam Lam and Nguyen Hai Dong. The photographers document the characteristics that define Vietnam’s past and present, its climate, architecture, nature, history and the rise of its enterprising new society.
Palazzo Incontro , Via dei Prefetti 22
Tuesday – Sunday 10 am – 7 pm; through September 2
Alberto Sughi
A retrospective exhibition dedicated to the works of Alberto Sughi (Cesena 1928 - )
Including 80 paintings and 60 drawings produced by the artist in the years since 1946. Sughi belongs to a generation of artists who influenced post–war trends in Italian art. A self-taught artist who chose to paint in the realist style rather than the controversial figurative and abstract styles that dominated Italian art in the second half of the 20th century, Sughi incorporates themes of solitude, hardship and pleasure in his work.
Complesso Vittoriano, Salone delle Mostre Temporanee
Via San Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia at Via dei Fori Imperiali)
Tuesday – Sunday 10 am-7 pm; through September 23
Pinturicchio: Bambin Gesù delle Mani
The fascinating exhibition at Palazzo Venezia, is comprised of a single painting, a multi-media installation, and several cubicles in which one can watch a short film narrated by Italian theater and film star, Arnoldo Foà. In 1492, the year that Cristopher Columbus discovered the New World, the Arabs were driven from Spain, Lorenzo (de Medici) the Magnificent died and the city-state of Florence fell to Carlo VII, Pope Alexander XI commissioned the painting, “Bambin Gesù delle Mani.” The Borgia Pope, Alexander XI, one of the most controversial figure ever to occupy St. Peter’s, entered the papacy with a trail of scandals in his wake. Infamous for his lavish lifestyle and his promiscuity, he fathered several children, among them, the beautiful Lucrezia Borgia. In a fit of unbridled excess, he directed Umbrian artist, Pinturicchio (born Bernadino di Betto, Siena 1434 –Rome 1513), to fresco the entire Borgia apartments as well as his personal quarters, Torre di Borgia, where the painting was to be kept, away from view of curious eyes. This exhibition presents a rare opportunity to celebrate a jewel of Renaissance art and to explore the intersecting history that unfolds around this exquisitely crafted portrait.
Palazzo Venezia, Via del Plebiscito 118 (Piazza Venezia)
Tuesday-Sunday, 10 am - 7 pm; through September 9
€8, 5
Valentino: 45 Years of Style
Celebrating the 45th anniversary since launching his career in fashion, designer Valentino returns to Rome after a 17-year absence to show his new collection. Valentino threw a weekend-long party with a star studded invitation list that included Italian government ministers, European royalty, Hollywood celebrities, fashion designers, top models and Valentino’s illustrious clientele.
In conjunction with the celebration, an exhibition of 350 garments created during the course of the designer’s long career is open to the public at the new Museo Ara Pacis. Running along the side of the museum and coordinated to the theme of Valentino’s emblematic color, RED, a site-specific structure in red plexi-glass encases a series of spectacular garments, visible to passing pedestrians and motorists.
Museo Dell’ Ara Pacis, Lungotevere In Augusta
Tuesday – Sunday 9 am – 7 pm; through October 28 tel 06 820 59127Santiago Calatrava: delle Forme all’architectura (from forms to architecture)
Born in Valencia Spain (1951 -) Calatrava is considered one of the world’s greatest living architects. His work is characterized by a multidisciplinary approach, a cross-pollination of engineering, architecture, drawing, draftsmanship and sculptural skills.
Le Scuderie del Quirinale, via XXIV Maggio, 16. through September 2 tel 0639967500Un Cavallo di Bronzo per più cavalieri
Rome and it’s surrounding provinces are treasure troves of ancient art and artifacts. One most recent discovery, “The Horse of Vicolo delle Palme, is a superb and rare example of a Greek bronze horse for several riders. The sculpture, recently restored, dates back to the 5th century. Now on display in the Capitoline’s splendid Sala degli Orazi e Curiazi. There’s an added bonus that comes with this exhibition, the Hall is decorated with frescoes by 15th century artist Arpino Cavaliere and a selection of photographs by Marco Delogu are also on exhibit.
Musei Capitoline, Sala degli Orazi e Curiazi, Piazza Campidoglio 1 through September 16 tel 06 820 59 127Oro di Roma (Roman Gold)
Everything that glitters here is gold. An exhibition of jewelry in gold reveals the multifaceted talent of Italian jewelers. Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo Lungotevere di Castello 50 Tuesday – Sunday 8:45 pm – 12:45 am through August 26 tel 06 328691 (€10 entrance price also good for Notti Animate on the terrace of Castel Sant’Angelo)Renato Carosone: Oltre la musica, la pittura (Beyond music, there is painting)
A retrospective exhibition of works by musician and painter, Renato Carosone. Carosone lived long enough to imitate almost an entire century of artistic styles and art movements. Sixty works on canvas and paper.
Castel Sant’Angelo Lungotevere di Castello 50 Tuesday – Sunday 9 am – 7 pm; through September 2 €6
- La Roma di Achille Pinelli
Pinelli (Naples 1809 -1841), was the eldest son of famous 18th century Italian painter Bartolomeo Pinelli. In this exhibition, seventy water colors from the museum’s archival collection document aspects of Rome that have since disappeared. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi, Via Di San Pantaleo (Piazza Navona),
Tuesday – Sunday, 9 am –7 pm; through September 16 tel 06 820 77 304
Matthew Barney – Presiding Judge
Media artist, Matthew Barney (San Francisco 1967 -) shows for the first time at Rome’s National Gallery. Barney gained instant recognition as producer and creator of Cremaster films, a series layered with images, symbols and mixed with autobiography, history and mythology. The current exhibition is a series of photographs and video extracted from Cremaster 3 theme. These works focus on the eternal struggle between life and death and the absurd irreconcilability between the two worlds. Barney’s work is in major museums and private collections. In 1996 he won the prestigious 2000 Europa prize at the 45th Biennale di Venezia. He was the first recipient of the Guggenheim Museum’s Hugo Boss Award.
GNAM – Galleria Nazionale D’Arte Moderna, Viale Delle Belle Arti 131 (Parioli) Tuesday – Sunday, through October 7 tel 06 322 981
Alessandro Poma
Bernardi Roig – Light never lies
Poma (1874 – 1960), spent most of his artistic career in seclusion. Born in the town of Biella (Piemonte), Poma relocated to Rome in 1899 at the invitation of his friend, Prince Livio Borghese, and took up residency in the historic Borghese villa, the Casina Raffaello, where he remained until shortly before his death. By 1910, having decided to withdraw from artistic circuits, Poma bid farewell to public exhibitions of his work and for the rest of his life painted career in solitude, selling only to a small group of private collectors. This is the first important exhibition of paintings from an artist whose works have up till recently remained in the shadows. Art critic and curator, Maurizio Calvesi presents a thematic survey of Poma’s artistic output. Sixty-two works borrowed from private collections focus on themes of landscape, portraiture, animal studies, Villa Borghese fauna and the Roman countryside. A selection of fifteen works inspired by the Borghese park grounds characterizes the villa's lush topography as it appeared during the first half of the 20th century.
Il Museo Carlo Bilotti Viale Fiorello La Guardia (on the grounds of the Villa Borghese) Tuesday – Sunday 9 am – 7 pm tel 06 820 59 127
Multi-media artist Bernardi Roig, showing for the first time in Rome, presents eight installations, graphite and charcoal drawings on paper, plus video projections that dialogue with his life-sized sculptures. Roig’s work embodies multiple themes, such as solitude, immortality, death, aesthetics and eroticism. The artist explores the boundaries and paradigms that prevent us from relating intimately with one another.
Museo Carlo Bilotti, Aranciera Di Villa Borghese, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4
Tuesday – Sunday 9 am – 7 pm; through September 16 €6,4 tel 06 820 5912I Profumi di Afrodite e il Segreto dell’olio: Archeological discoveries from Cypress
More than 100 finds of amphora vases, brass works, ceramics, stone, glass and alabaster unfold the secrets of ancient life in Cypress.
Musei Capitolini, Palazzo Caffarelli, Piazza del Campodoglio 1, through September 2
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Events l Classical Music l Popular Music l Dance & Opera l Art l Restaurants Open in August l Getaways: Lake Bolsena
If you're looking for a good restaurant in Rome this month, you'll be surprised, disappointed, perhaps even panic-stricken to discover that most of the are closed. Thankfully, many of our favorites stay open through most of the month. You won't go wrong with any of these.
Il Ristorante Gonfalone
Housed in an seventeenth-century building, which has been carefully remodeled with ancient elements such as the floor and ceiling left intact. Neapolitan cuisine gracefully served. There are a few outside tables and the restaurant’s sleek downstairs bar and lounge, offers live music Thursday through Saturday. Open in August for dinner only.
Via del Gonfalone, 7 (Campo de' Fiori-Piazza Farnese) tel 06 688 01269 €€
Boccondivino
Great food, charming service, and a nice little patio in the heart of the historic center. (near the Pantheon)
Piazza Campo Marzio 6 (Pantheon) Open through August 15 only. tel 06 683 08626 &euro&euro
Camponeschi
With it’s outside tables in the Piazza Farnese, and its old-world elegance, the Camponeschi family restaurant has charmed Italians and tourists for decades. The menu offers superb renditions of regional specialties. Seafood enthusiasts might try astice, (baby lobster) with truffles or millefoglie di triglia con cialde di pecorino — a layered confection of Mediterranean fish served with roman pecorino cheese. The wine list is exceptional. Start your evening with an apertivo in the adjoining wine bar.
Piazza Farnese, 50 tel. 06 687 4927 Closed Sundays and in August. €€€
Checco er Carttiere
A traditional favorite with a long history. Formerly frequented by Fellini and the Dolce Vita set. Internal garden. (Trastevere).
Via Benedetta 10 tel 06 580 0985 €€
Enoteca Ferrara
One of Rome's gourmet strongholds, with a shop, a restaurant and a wine bar. Creative cooking, pleasant dining room, awesome wine list.
Piazza Trilussa 41 (Trastevere) tel 06 583 33920 €€€
Glass Hosteria
Sleekly modern, contemporary to the smallest detail, from the glass floor, to the rough paper placemats, to the dishes and silverware to the quirky but delicious cuisine.
Vicolo del Cinque 58 (Trastevere) tel 06 583 35903 €€
'Gusto
A center of Italian gastronomy, wine bar, restaurants, gourmet shop. Modern decor.
Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 (Near Piazza del Popolo) tel 06 322 6273 €€
Il Fico
A favorite with tourists and locals alike. Outdoor patio. Traditional cuisine.
Piazza del Fico 24 (Near Piazza Navona) tel 06 687 5568 €€
Maccheroni
A simple trattoria with tables that spill out onto the Piazza Coppelle, which is full of life on a summer night. Order one of the pasta dishes.
Piazza Copelle 44 (Piazza Navona, Pantheon) tel 06 683 07895 €
Otello alla Concordia
In an ancient alley, with tables covered by a permanent tent. A Roman institution, favored by locals for decades.
Via della Croce 81 (Near Piazza di Spagna) tel 06 679 1178 €€
Pancotto
This family run traditional Roman trattoria is the real thing, filled with local Romans who come for the good, unpretentious, traditional cuisine, pleasant atmosphere and reasonable prices. Outside tables on the Viale di Trastevere attract foot-weary tourists as well as locals. In addition to the pizzas and pastas, try the full-flavored chicken marinated with Gaeta olives. And, of course, one of their speciaities is panna cotta, a cooked cream pudding to die for.
Viale di Trastevere, 8-14 (near Ponte Garibaldi) tel 06 5806334 €
Roscioli
You enter the restaurant through what looks like a deli, with a case full of eye-popping Italian treasures, the best cheeses, the best cold cuts. Order from a menu full of small treats or let the waiter bring you a sampling, dish after dish of appetizer delights, wonderful breads. Go for a main course if you still have room.
Via dei Giubbinari 22 (near Campo de' Fiori) tel 06 687 5287 €€
Sora Lella
The original Lella was the sister of one of Italy's most popular film stars, Aldo Fabrizi. It was the favorite of jet setters for years. Now it's frequented by Romans in the know. Traditional cuisine, perfectly prepared in a comfortable setting on the Isola Tiberina in the midst of the river.
Via Ponte Quattro Capi 16 (Between Trastevere and the Ghetto) tel 06 686 1601 €€€
Trattoria Quirino
Chef and owner Quirino’s knowledge of food preparation comes from watching the women in his family and from learning to trust food combinations that appeal to his taste. He prepares traditional Roman dishes with just enough imagination to add interesting variations to the selection of pasta, fish and meat. The airy, informal dining room is decorated in soft colors with reproductions of 18th century Pinelli prints. The cantina offers a wide selection of regional wines, grappa and whiskey. €€
Vicolo della scala, 3 tel 06 5830 1885 (Trastevere) Open for lunch and dinner. €€
Click here for more information on these and other recommended restaurants.Click any of the links below to go directly to that section:
Events l Classical Music l Popular Music l Dance & Opera l Art l Restaurants Open in August l Getaways: Lake Bolsena
The largest volcanic lake in Europe, an easy 100 kilometer drive from Rome, Bolsena, in the the northwestern corner of Lazio, offers an excellent alternative to crowded and expensive beach resorts. You can choose swimming, sailing, canoeing, camping, scuba diving archeo-trekking, cycling, controlled fishing, relaxing on dark sandy beaches or strolling the scenic lungolago along the water’s edge. And when you get tired of relaxing, you can explore some of Italy's most intriguing historical sites. In ancient times, the area was known as upper Tuscia, the center of much of the Etruscan kingdom, with borders touching the Tuscan Maremma on one side and southern Umbria on the other. The lake was formed more than 300,00 years ago from the collapse of a volcanic cauldron belonging to the Vulsini mountain chain. The oval shape left from the eruption filled the basin with water, creating the lake and two islands— Bisentina and Martana—as well as the river Marta.
Archeological documentation of ceramic and textile production housed in the Museo Territoriale date the first inhabitants to the Neolithic period, between 8,000 and 5,000 years ago. The area was a cultural crossroads of Mediterranean peoples who inhabited these territories for centuries. The Villanoviani, the first documented lake dwellers, occupied the area during the Iron Age of the 8th and 9th centuries B.C. The Etruscan population followed, forming trading alliances with the Greeks. After a series of wars with the Romans, the Etruscans were finally defeated in about 265 B.C. and their society was incorporated into that of their conquerors. The towns along the lake boast art and architecture reflecting centuries of conquests and the effects of trade: necropoli, ceramics, artefacts and even palaces from the Etruscan Paleo-christian, Byzantine, Medieval and Renaissance periods.
Bolsena
Rising 350 meters above sea level in a northeastern position facing the lake, the town of Bolsena was the site of an Etruscan city protected behind an elaborate boundary wall. Writing during the time of Emperor Augustus, the historian, Pliny, described the Vesentini and Etruscans who lived around the lake. During the Medieval period, Dante cited Lago di Bolsena’s eel production in his Divine Comedy, making reference to Pope Martin IV’s love of food.. “...Purga per digiuno l'anguilla di Bolsena e la vernaccia" (canto XXIV, 23/24)..Bolsena’s Renaissance history parallels Papal personalities, historically associated with likes of Cardinal Giovanni de’Medici, who later became Pope Leone X, Pope Pio II (Piccolomini) and Paolo III (Farnese).
La Basilica di Santa Cristina at Bolsena traces the city’s paleo-christian history through its architecture. Here you can see the hypogeal basilica, the Grotta di Santa Cristina, the catacombs, and the primative altar of the 10th century cult of Santa Cristina. The Cappella del Miracolo and Cappella di San Leonardo are associated with the story of a bohemian priest who questioned the actual presence of Christ in the Eucharist. Legend has it that a revelation during the mass performed in Cappella del Miracolo resolved the priest’s uncertainties. In the 15th century. before heading south to take the papal seat, Cardinal Giovanni de Medici constructed the basilica’s tri-partite Romanesque façade. Rocca Monaldescshi, the Museo Territoriale del Lago di Bolsena,
dating from the 11th century, dominates the Medieval section of the town and displaysCapodimonte
The picturesque penisola Capodimonte is the gem of Lago di Bolsena. Situated on a promontory facing the lake from a southwest direction, it rises 334 meters above sea level. The irregular morphology of its landscape, with undulating hills, rich vegetation, natural streams and brooks, make it the lake’s most enchanting town. Capodimonte is an offshoot of the ancient Vesentum, the important Umbrian Etruscan city where three culturally diverse populations (Villanova, Etruria and Roman) once dwelled. The city was destroyed in 280 B.C. but later rebuilt by the Romans. Conquests, invasions, refuge, rebuilding continued throughout the Middle Ages. It wasn’t until the unification of Italy in 1870 that the area saw stability. Today, it’s an ideal location for summer vacationers, particularly water enthusiasts, with a port accommodating both motor and sail boats. Archeological sites include La Rocca Farnese, a massive octagonal monument designed by 16th century architect Antonio da Sangallo the Younger; Palazzo Borghese, now the city hall; and Palazzo Puniatowski, designed by Valadier, the architect who designed villa Borghese in Rome.The Islands:
The lake's two islands can be visited by buying a ticket for one of the fishing boat tours. Isola Bisentina, which is covered in vegetation, was inhabited in the ninth century by mainland settlers seeking refuge from invading barbarians. The scavo della malta, reachable by foot only through a narrow passageway, offers a fascinating glimpse of the island’s anciet history. Isola Martana, located on the lake’s southeast coast, is smaller and barren but worth a visit for its crystal-clear water and the remaining ruins of a Medieval port.WHAT TO DO:
WHERE TO STAY:
Cycling
Cycle Lago di Bolsena - www.piste-ciclabili.com
Scuba diving
Scuola Sub scuolasub@bolsenanew.it
Egidio 338 9561470 egidio.s@bolsenanew.it
Massimiliano 338 564 1467 max@bolsenanew.it
Sailing
VolereVela organizes sailing tours of the lake islands; Bisentina and Martana.
Tel. 0763 343793
Cell: 328 872 1863 volerevelare@libero.it
Hotel Holiday in Bolsena has a great location and attentive service. Rooms are equipped with air-conditioning, bath, satellite TV, telephone, frigobar, hairdryer, safe deposit. Therre’s a restaurant, swimming pool and a special area reserved for children. Viale A. Diaz 38 Bolsena (VT)
www.hotelholidaybolsena.it
Farm Holidays Cipolloni – Montefiascone (VT)
A country agriturismo complex consisting of 6 apartments, each structured on two levels, with private bath and kitchen. Località Cipollone, 107 – Montefiascone (VT)
tel (39) 761 823 150, mobile: (39) 340 104 7220
www.vacationbolsena.com
Hotel Borgo Le Torrette – S. Lorenzo Nuovo (Viterbo)
Located in a Medieval village, the hotel offers 12 suites recently refurbished. Each suite is furnished with air conditioning, Jacuzzi bath satellite TV, fridge-bar, safe deposit, king size bed.
Via Cassia km 120,00 01020 San Lorenzo Nuovo (VT)
tel.0763-726025 fax 0763-726121
www.letorrette.it
Camping
Blu International Camping – Bolsena Lago
Located on the lake’s shorefront, the facility has a swimming pool and beach reserved for boat docking, a market, bar, and pizzeria.
Via Cassia km 111,650 – Bolsena (VT)
www.blucamping.it
Camping Massimo
Situated on the lake shore, offers apartment rental, bungalows and studio apt.
Via Cassia Nord km. 116, 700
www.massimo.info
For more information:
www.bolsenalake.com
WHERE TO EAT:
Not surprisingly, the area’s cuisine is heavy on freshly caught lake fish. Most trattorie and restaurants specialize in sbroscia, a fish soup with vegetables,usually prepared with several lake fish— tranci, di tinca, luccio, anguilla, persico, corregone and lattarini —laced with onion, fresh mint, salt, red pepper and olive oil and served with toasted bread.
Trattoria del Moro
Local dishes are served a romantic lakeside atmosphere. The owner describes his restaurant as reminiscent of an ancient pagoda or primitive palafitte One of the chef’s specialties is L’anguilla al Vernaccia, the dish cited by Dante Alighieri in The Divine Comedy. A well stocked enoteca with a variety of regional wines from Lazio.
Piazzale Dante Alighieri 5 (39) 761 798810
www.trattoriadelmoro.it
Ristorante La Pineta
An elegant restaurant, a bit more upscale than most in the area. La Pineta's well-manicured garden is as much of an attraction as the cuisine. Apart from dining, the space can be reserved for more ceremonial affairs. An enchanting place to watch the sun set.
Open for lunch only Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday. Open for both lunch and dinner, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Closed Thursday.
Viale A. Diaz, 48 tel 0761 799 801 www.lapinetabolsena.it
Al Miralgo
A rustic place along the lake front drive. Al Miralgo is your typical banquet-style restaurant with ample seating. the cuisine is typical of the area, with fresh lake fish and homemade pasta. Closed Tuesdays
Lungolago Marconi 58 tel 0761 870910 Marta (VT)
www.provincia.vt.it/turismo/RistoranteDett.aspClick here to go directly to any of these sections:
Events l Classical Music l Popular Music l Dance & Opera l Art l Restaurants Open in August l Getaways: Lake Bolsena
Macrobiotics and Massage
Rome's only macrobiotic restaurant is more than a place to eat great home cooking, it's a social center for those interested in shiastu massage, yoga, tai chi and roundtable discussions on culture and the arts. Stop in at this cozy Trastevere location to taste the unbelievably delicious organic beer, crafted my Italy's only female brewmaster.
Via Mattonato, 42 – tel 06 581 0626 www.tidiro.netThe legend of Zabaglione... You may have heard of Rome's delicate dessert, but did you know about its origins? After receiving frequent prayers and requests from desperate wives, Saint Pasquale Bayon invented a sweet concoction of eggs, sugar, and fortified wine to help energize their lazy husbands. This yummy dessert later became known as "Zabaglione" (Zah-bahl-yon-eh) after many mispronunciations of Saint Bayon's name. One of the best places in Rome to sample the authentic homemade dish is at Er Trasteverino in Trastevere (where else?) at the corner of via San Francesco a Ripa and Via Manarag. While you're in the neighborhood, you can visit the church built for this sweet-toothed saint found right across the street.
Noi Salon in the Piazza del Popolo is the home of Massimo, Rick and , three expert stylists who formerly headed salons in Southern California. They blend California's casual sophistication with European elegance, working in partnership with their clients to create a unique personal style.
Click here for the Noi SalonAri's Nails, newly opened just behind Largo Argentina, offers expert, American-style manicures, pedicures (using hard to find Nailtiques and Opi products), massages, brow shaping, waxing, facials and body treatments in a lovely, relaxing setting. And they're open all through the month of August!
Click here for Ari's Nails
Determina is a unique Rome-based service offering life coaching, business coaching, workshops and lectures. Their skilled coaches can help you achieve your professional goals, help you learn to make better decisions, and to use your instincts.
Click here for Determina.Go to in rome now.com homepage
Copyright Joie Davidow and Vikki Ericks, 2007
