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Rome is a Summer Festival

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Estate Romana: The 30th Anniversary Season
The Estate Romana, Rome's summer festival, now in its 30th year, is in full swing this month, with outdoor events throughout the city. In this month's newsletter, we've given you the highlights for the month of July, with links for more information.

On the banks of the Tiber
Castel Sant Angelo
There are few views in the world more breathtaking than those from the terraces of the Castel Sant'Angelo. On summer nights, they're open for eating a meal, having a drink or a gelato. There are sales and exhibitions of "made in Italy" foods and gold jewelry clowns, games and puppets, folk music and cabaret. www.castelsantangelo.com

Il Portal
Meanwhile, below the castle along the river banks, there's a beach! Sand has been brought in, two swimming pools installed, and palm trees placed make it all seem real.

Roma Er Tevere in Trastevere
Along the banks of the Tiber from Ponte Sisto to Ponte Rotto and on the Tiberina island, there's a nightly festival of shops, restaurants, music, dancing. You can have a beer and a healthy plate of food, at a riverside table overlooking the rushing waters. An outdoor cinema is set up on the island, although the films are all in Italian. http://www.marsiliniziative.com

TramBelCanto
A vintage 1920s tram car has been decked out and put into service for a special summer tour of Rome by night, complete with singers on board offering arias, local Lazio wines and dinner and the added bonus of a tour of the Coliseum by night. The three-hour journey leaves from Porto Maggiore on Saturdays at 9 pm
July 7, July 14, July 21 €80 tel 06 853 01758

Sotto il Celio: Archeology and Theater
In the archeological site beneath the Basilica dei SS Giovanni e Paolo al Celio archeologists provide an evening guided tour (in Italian)of the excavations restored and reopened in 2002, of ancient Roman houses, giving visitors a taste of Roman life from the third century AD to the middle ages, and a peek into Pagan and Early Christian rituals. The tours, which last 90 minutes, take place Thursdays through Saturdays, through September 30 On the Clivio di Scauro, at the Piazza San Gregorio near the Coliseum. €6. Tours in English are available on request. For reservations tel 06.70.45.45.44 www.caseromane.it

Festa di Noantri, Trastevere
Once an important street fair that engulfed the entire neighborhood for a full week, this traditional festival has dwindled significantly in recent years, to include some booths selling food and trinkets, a couple of stages with nightly entertainment, and, of course, the parade of the Madonna del Carmine through the streets. July 22-29.

Una Notte al Bioparco (A Night at the Zoo)
During the summer months, the zoo (on the grounds of the Villa Borghese, Parioli side), opens at night, allowing visitors to observe them without disturbing their sleep. Eleven theatrical performances depict the animal world by night. Thursday-Sunday, 9 pm-midnight, through August 12. €10 www.bioparco.it

Classical Music

Cortile of San Ivo alla Sapienza
Under the 15th century arches of this astounding church near the Piazza Navona, concerts performed by the International Chamber Ensemble
Corso del Rinascimento 40 (near Piazza Navona)
Concerts €20, opera €24 www.interensemble.org
June 3 and 5: Vivaldi Concerto di Concerti, International Chamber Ensemble, 9 pm
July 10 and 14, August 4 and 7: The Fabulous '60s, from Piazzola to the Beatles, 9:30 pm
July 10, 21, 24 and 25: Mozart's Don Giovanni, directed by Richard Harrell with the Compagnia di Canto dell'Opera Academy, 9 pm
July 28, 31 and August 1: All-Tchaikovsky program, 9:30 pm

Basilica di Massenzio: Festival Roma nel Cuore
A summer concert series at the archeological site in front of the ancient Basilica di Massenzio on the via dei Fori Imperiali near the Coliseum. One of the largest remaining buildings from ancient Rome, it was begun by the Emperor Massenzio in the Fourth Century and later finished by Constantine.
through August 15, 9:30 pm
Concerts €15, opera €20
July 2-3: The Barber of Seville
July 4: Roberto Cappello, piano music by Ravel and Gershwin
July 6: Verdi's Requiem Mass
July 8: Berliner Symphoniker performs Dvorak's New World Symphony and Brahms' Symphony n. 1
July 10: The Swingle Singers "Sonata to Salsa"
July 12-15: Mozart's The Marriage of Figaro

Festival Euro Mediterraneo
A series of concerts in archeological sites along the Via Appia Antica. Concerts at 9 pm €15 tel 06 648 29220
Wednesday, July 11: At the Ninfeo Villa dei Quintili, Orchestra da Camera of the Berliner Philharmoniker,
Music by W.A. Mozart, G. Verdi, C. Debussy, G. Gershwin, D. Shostakovich, A. Piazzolla
Thursday, July 12: At the Ninfeo Villa dei Quintili, Mozart's Concerto in C Major for flute and strings, Vivaldi's The Four Seasons.
Saturday, July 14: At the Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella, Richard Wagner's Siegfried Idyll and Wesendonck Lieder, Richard Strauss' Four Last Songs; Nausicaa Policicchi
Sunday, July 15: At the Ninfeo Villa dei Quintili, the festival orchestra plays music by Schubert, Schumann and Brahms
Wednesday, July 18: At the Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella, the festival orchestra plays music by Schubert, Schumann and Brahms
Friday, July 20: At the Ninfeo Villa dei Quintili, the festival chamber orchestra plays music by Albinioni, Marcello, Händel
Saturday, July 21: At the Ninfeo Villa dei Quintili, the festival orchestra plays music by Mendelssohn
Friday, July 27: At the Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella, the festival chamber orchestra plays music by Albinioni, Marcello, Händel
Tuesday, July 30: At the Ninfeo Villa dei Quintili, the festival orchestra plays music by Mozart

Teatro Marcello
A nightly summer concert series in an archeological site, one of the greatest theaters in ancient Rome, begun by Caesar. Later, Augustus dedicated it to the memory of his nephew and son-in-law, Marcellus. Piano recitals and chamber concerts nightly at 8:30 pm
Via del Teatro di Marcello (on the edge of the Ghetto)
€15 www.tempietto.it

Villa Torlonia
Via Nomentana 70, tel 06 871 31590
At the Casino delle Civette, on the grounds of the Torlonia family villa in the Nomentana district, which was once the home of Mussolini, a series of piano recitals and chamber music concerts. Concerts every night, 8:30 pm, €15 www.tempietto.it



Popular, Jazz and World Music

Circus Maximus
Genesis This year's free mega-concert, usually held at the Coliseum, will instead be at the Circus Maximus, with the Genesis trio of Phil Collins, Tony Banks and Mike Rutherford, reunited for their "Turn it on Again" tour, a perfect match for the concert's corporate sponsor, Telecom. Concert starts at 9 pm, but get there VERY early, as it will be something of a crush.
Saturday, July 14, 9 pm
www.telecomcerto.it

Cavea Parco della Musica
Luglio Suono Bene, (July sounds good) is the name of the festival at the cavea, the outdoor amphitheater at the Parco della Musica. Get tickets well advance.
Call 199. 109 783 www.auditorium.com
Monday, July 2, Jan Garbarek
Tuesday, July 3, Patti Smith and her Band "Twelve Tour"
Wednesday, July 4: Dee Dee Bridgewater “Red Earth- A Malian Journey”
Thursday, July 5: Bandabardò
Friday, July 6: Lou Reed's Berlin (indoors at the Sala Santa Cecilia
Thursday, July 12: John Legend
Monday, July 16: Carlinhos Brown
Tuesday, July 17: Scissor Sisters
Wednesday, July 18: Hymn for My Soul
Thursday, July 19: Damien Rice
Friday, July 20: Fiorella Mannoia
Sunday, July 22: Rokia Traorè. Buika
Monday, July 23: Mario Biondi and the Duke Orchestra
Tuesday July 24: Max Gazzè, Paola Turci and Marina Rei
Wednesday, July 25: Pink
Thursday, July 26: Tiromancino
Friday, July 27: Carmen Consoli
Saturday, July 28: Franco Battiato
Sunday, July 29: A meeting of Italian jazz greats including Roberto Gatto, Danilo Rea, Gino Paoli
Monday, July 30: Giovanni Allevi
Tuesday, July 31: Sergio Cammariere

Villa Doria Pamphilij: I Concerti nel Parco
On the immense grounds of one of Rome's most historic villas, on the Gianicolo Hill.
www.iconcertinelparco.it
July 4: Israeli vocalist Noa with the Solis String Quartet, free admission
July 14: Pianist Carlo Grante, classical recital
July 15: Songs between the two wars, performed by Antonella Ruggiero
July 16: Remo Anzovina vs Massemo Bertallot, trio vs dj set
July 23: Carlo Negroni, jazz piano

Romalive Festival
International headliners in the Stadio della Pallacorda at the Foro Italico
July 12 -22, 9:30
€60-23 tel 06 592 2100
Thursday, July 12: Raf
Friday, July 13: Ziggy Marley
Sunday, July 15: The Allman Brothers
Monday, July 16: The Gypsy Kings
Wednesday, July 18: John Mayall
Friday, July 20: Massimo Ranieri

Villa Ada

Roma Incontra il Mondo (Rome Meets the World)
The Villa Ada, on Rome's northern edge, is surrounded by a big park with beautiful paths, a lake and a sylvan atmosphere. As always, this summer's festival features and eclectic mix of ethnic and folk music from all over the world.
June 14- August 5. Park opens at 8 pm. Concerts begin at 10 pm. www.villaada.org

Villa Celemontana Jazz Festival
The longest jazz festival in Europe, the event combines concerts with art exhibitions at a historic villa surrounded by gardens. The best-known players in Italian jazz, plus some international acts and a few big names.
Gates to the villa grounds open at 9 pm, concerts begin at 10:15 pm.
tel 06 589 7807 http://www.villacelimontanajazz.com

Rome Jazz Festival: Casa del Jazz
The festival spreads itself over the Villa Celemontana, the La Palma Club, and Rome's own Casa del Jazz, on the grounds of a lovely villa.
Viale di Porta Ardeatina, 55 (near the Baths of Caracalla)
Tickets tel. 199.10.97.83, information 06.704731, restaurant 06 700 8370 www.casadeljazz.it
Some highlights:
Friday, July 6: Gato Barbieri, Latin jazz
Saturday, July 7: Nicola Conte
Friday, July 13: Kurt Rosenwinkel Quintet
Monday, July 16: Roberto Gatto
Thursday, July 19: Roy Hargrove Quintet
Friday, July 20: Maria Pia De Vito Transito Atlantico
Friday, July 27: Ada Montellanico “Dedicato a Billie Holiday”

Jazz at the Villa Medici
On the grounds of the French Academy, at Viale Trinità dei Monti 1 (atop the Spanish Steps) €20 www.villamedici.it
Thursday, July 5, 9 pm: Homage to Thelonious Monk, with the Enrico Pieranunzi Quintet
Friday, July 6, 9 pm: Enrico Pieranunzi, solo piano

Villaggio Incontro: At the EUR Laghetto
An outdoor concert series at the artificial lake in the Eur district (via Cristoforo Colombo at the Parco delle Cascate). Along the lake, you'll also find the summer Gay Village, open through September 2, with dancing and bars. www.gayvillage.it
www.laghettolive.it

Cosmophonies at Ostia Antica
A summer concert series in the ancient amphitheater of Ostia Antica, an abandoned port city, not unlike Pompeii, just a short train ride from the center of Rome. To get there, take the train from Piramide station.
Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Ostia Antica
€60-15 tel 06 5635 0468 or 06 482 7915 www.cosmophonies.com
Thursday, July 5: Ute Lemper
Saturday, July 7: Sonic Youth
Wednesday, July 11: Paolo Rossi
Thursday, July 19: Wim Mertens
Wednesday, July 25: Paolo Conte
Saturday, July 28: Stars of the Budapest Operetta
Sunday, July 29: Ascanio Celentini
Tuesday, July 31: Earth, Wind and Fire

Ippodromo delle Capannelle
Fiesta!
Via Appia Nuova 1245
On Rome's south side, at the site of the city's racetrack. €20-10 www.fiesta.it
Some highlights:
Sunday, July 15: Oscar d'Leon and Los Van Van, with Frankie Morales
Tuesday, July 17: Ricky Martin

RomeRock Festival
And at the same venue, the RomaRock Festival features a number of international headliners this year. Concerts at 9:30 pm:
Tuesday, July 3: Peter Gabriel
Thursday, July 5: Morgan Heritage (reggae)
Tuesday, July 13: Finley
Wednesday, July 18: Avril Lavigne
Friday, July 20: Robert Plant
Friday, July 27: Avion Travel

PlateaEstate: at the Tendastrice
Classical, jazz and ethnic music in the tent theater on the city's outskirts (Prenestina). C on00 00certs begin at 9:30 pm Via G Perlasca 69 €5
www.plateaestate.com
Tuesday, July 3: Roma Barocca Ensemble
Thursday July 12: Juan Lorenzo Flamenco Duo
Saturday, July 14: Mulholland Trio, jazz
Thursday, July 19: Haiku Sensei, jazz
Saturday, July 21: Camerata Italica, chamber music
Tuesday, July 31: Compagnia dei Cosacchi, Russian folklore

Concerti Per Roma Capitale: Rome's Police Bands
Piazza Sant Ignazio (near the Pantheon) Nightly, July 9-24, 9 pm, free

Giardino degli Aranci: Roman Melodies
Roman melodies, stories and legends, performed in traditional costume, by Paolo Gatti, musician and storyteller with the voices of Giorgia Fini, Simona Spadaccia and Elisabetta Tulli. The second half of the program is devoted to the music of Italy's "cantautori," in the rich tradition of the singer-songwriter: Claudio Baglioni, Francesco De Gregori, Amadeo Minghi
Giardini degli Aranci, Via di Santa Sabina (Ostiense) Nightly at 9 pm; through August 15 €14 www.melodieromane.it

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Dance, Theater and Opera

Teatro dell'Opera alle Terme di Caracalla
The summer season presented out of doors, against the magnificent backdrop of Caracalla's sumptuous ancient baths.
All performances at 9 pm €110-25 tel 06 481 60255 or 06 481 7003 www.operaroma.it
Tuesday, July 3 - Friday, July 6 and Sunday July 8; Tuesday, July 9: Swan Lake, the classic Tchaikovsky ballet
Tuesday, July 17 - Thursday, July 26 and Saturday, July 29: Verdi's Nabucco
Friday and Sunday, July 27 and 29, Friday, August 3, Sunday, August 5, Thursday, August 9: Puccini's Turandot
Special event, Monday July 16: tenor Rolando Villazon

"Carmen: se io t’amo, attento a te!"
Giardini della Filarmonica, via Flaminia 118, July 3,5, 6, 8, 9:30 pm
An interpretation of the Bizet opera, with Italian libretto by Patrizia Cavalli based on the work by Marius Constant, Jean-Claude Carriere e Peter Brook, first presented in 1988. Presented by the Accademia Filarmonica Romana, with Katarina Nikolic as Carmen and Massimiliano Tonsini as Don Josè. www.filarmonicaromana.org

Invito alla danza at Villa Pamphilj
On the immense grounds of one of Rome's most historic villas, a summer series of dance performances, by companies from throughout the world.
via di San Pancrazio, 10 (Gianicolo Hill) www.invitoalladanza.it
Monday, Tuesday, July 2-3: Scapino Ballet Rotterdam presents "Heartland"
Friday, July 6, Aterballeto
Monday, Tuesday, July 9-10: E.N.B. Balletto di Roma presents "Cenerentola" (Cinderella)
Thursday, July 12: Spellbound Dance Company presents "Carmina Burana"
Tuesday, Wednesday, July 17-18: Tangokinesis presents "Nuevo Tango"
Thursday-Saturday, July 19-20: Les Ballet Jazz de Montreal
Wednesday-Thursday, July 25, 26: Teatro Greco Dance Company presents "Rugantino"

FestiVAl at Villa Adriano, Tivoli
One of the greatest archeological sites in the world, the ruins of the villa built by the Emperor Hadrian, will be the site of the first international festival. Located in Tivoli, just a short drive from Rome, the villa's grounds are magnificently lit at night, and it's thrilling to sit an amphitheater built centuries ago. "festiVAl," the name a play on the words "festival" and "va," Italian for "go," has been co-produced by major international arts organizations.
The myths of Eros and Dionysus have been chosen as the themes for this first festival All performances begin at 9 pm €20 tel 199.109.783

Tuesday, July 3; Wednesday, July 4: The Manganiyar Seduction The Manganiyar are a caste of performers, who for centuries have been in the service of the royal families of Rajasthan. This 42-member ensemble, still living in the Rajasthani desert, plays and sings music set to verses by the great Sufi poets.
Thursday, July 5: Ludovico Einaudi "Il tempo del mito" The pianist-composer creates meditative music in the vein of Keith Jarrett. Here he teams with Robert Lippock, live electronics.
Friday, July 6: Orchestra Popolare Italiana with Ambrogio Sparagna. Traditional music of the Lazio region.
Monday, July 9; Tuesday, July 10: Myth Created by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, a Belgian, originally from Morocco, this dance piece employs twelve dancers, two actors and traditional Spanish and Italian music performed by Patrizia Bovi and her ensemble.
Friday-Saturday, July 13-14: Vertiges, by Tony Gatlif, the French-Algerian director of Latcho Drom and Exils (winner of the 2004 Best Director award at Cannes), is a an homage to gypsy art, with 30 artists from Spain, North Africa and Eastern Europe

Cosmophonies at Ostia Antica
A summer concert series in the ancient amphitheater of Ostia Antica, an abandoned port city, not unlike Pompeii, just a short train ride from the center of Rome. To get there, take the train from Piramide station.
Viale dei Romagnoli 717, Ostia Antica
€60-15 tel 06 5635 0468 or 06 482 7915 www.cosmophonies.com
Some highlights:
Friday, July 13: Mostellaria, by the classic Roman playwright Tito Maccio Plauto, directed and adapted by Vincenzo Zingaro
Wednesday, July 18: Stars of the Bolshoi Ballet
Friday, July 20: The Night George Gershwin and Glen Miller Went to Dinner (Theater in Italian)
Saturday, July 21: Ballet de Cuba
Tuesday, July 24: Flamenco star Joaquìn Cortès
Monday, July 30: Flamenco Ballet de Madrid presents "Carmen"

The Miracle Players: Ceasar-More Than Just a Salad
The comedy group reprises one of their most popular productions in which they take the complicated story of Caesar’s rise and demise and have turned it into forty minutes of comic mayhem. Written by Denise McNee, based on the words of the classical Roman authors such as Suetonius, Cassius Dio, Cicero , Caesar himself, and of course, Shakespeare. Performed against the backdrop of the ancient Roman Forum, With Frances Bachman, Dyanne White, Rob Allyn, Eric Massanesi, Denise McNee.
At the Foro Romana, Tuesdays and Fridays, 7:30 pm; June 22-August 10. tel 06 703 93427 www.miracleplayers.org

Quercia del Tasso
This little amphitheater, built into the side of the Gianicolo hill, with all of Rome below it, presents plays in Italian throughout the summer, the highlight is always the offering by classic Roman playwright Plauto. www.anfiteatroquerciadeltasso.com
July 11-31: Plauto's Miles Gloriosus

Shakespeare in Italian at the Globe Theater
On the grounds of the Villa Borghese stands an astonishing sight, an accurate recreation of Shakespeare's Globe Theater. On summer nights, one can hear the bard's words in productions translated into Italian. Re-read the plays before you go, sit back and enjoy the spectacle. Performances at 9 pm €20-7 tel 06 820 59127 www.globetheatreroma.com
July 4-15: La Tempesta (The Tempest)
July 21-August 5: Sogno di una notte di mezza estate (A Midsummer Night's Dream)


Pirandelliana
If there's any theater you should try to catch in the original Italian, it's the work of the absurdist playwright Luigi Pirandello (1867-1936), winner of the 1934 Nobel Prize in Literature. Each summer his plays are performed in the garden of the Basilica di Sant'Alessio at the Aventine.Piazza S. Alessio 23 €12 tel 06 662 0982 www.labottegadellemaschere.it
Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, June 5-August 4: Sei Personaggi in Cerca d'Autore
One of Pirandello's most beloved comedies, written in 1921.
Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, July 6-August 5: I Giganti della Montagna, a rarely performed, unfinished work written near the end of Pirandello's life in 1932.

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Estate Romana LogoArt

Santiago Calatrava: delle Forme all’architectura (from forms to architecture)
Born in Valencia Spain (1951 -) Calatrava is considered one of the world’s greatest living architects. His work is  characterized by a multidisciplinary approach, a cross-pollination of engineering, architecture, drawing, draftsmanship and sculptural skills.
Le Scuderie del Quirinale, via XXIV Maggio, 16.  July 4 through September 2   tel 0639967500

Un Cavallo di Bronzo per più cavalieri
Rome and it’s surrounding provinces are treasure troves of ancient art and artifacts. One most recent discovery, “The Horse of Vicolo delle Palme, is a superb and rare example of a Greek bronze horse for several riders. The sculpture, recently restored, dates back to the 5th century. Now on display in the Capitoline’s splendid Sala degli Orazi e Curiazi. There’s an added bonus that comes with this exhibition, the Hall is decorated with frescoes by 15th century artist Arpino Cavaliere and a selection of photographs by Marco Delogu  are also on exhibit.
Musei Capitoline, Sala degli Orazi e Curiazi,  Piazza Campidoglio 1  through September 16  tel 06 820 59 127

Oro di Roma (Roman Gold)
Everything that glitters here is gold. An exhibition of jewelry in gold reveals the multifaceted talent of Italian jewelers. Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo  Lungotevere di Castello 50  Tuesday – Sunday 8:45 pm – 12:45 am  through August 26   tel 06 328691 (€10 entrance price also good for Notti Animate on the terrace of Castel Sant’Angelo)

Renato Carosone: Oltre la musica, la pittura (Beyond music, there is painting)
A retrospective exhibition of works by musician and painter, Renato Carosone. Carosone lived long enough to imitate almost an entire century of artistic styles and art movements. Sixty works on canvas and paper.
Castel Sant’Angelo  Lungotevere di Castello 50 Tuesday – Sunday 9 am – 7 pm; through September 2 €6

  • La Roma di Achille Pinelli
    Pinelli (Naples 1809 -1841), was the eldest son of famous 18th century Italian painter Bartolomeo Pinelli. In this exhibition, seventy water colors from the museum’s archival collection document aspects of Rome that have since disappeared. Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi,  Via Di San Pantaleo  (Piazza Navona),
    Tuesday – Sunday, 9 am –7 pm; through September 16  tel 06 820 77 304

    Matthew Barney – Presiding Judge
    Media artist, Matthew Barney (San Francisco 1967 -) shows for the first time at Rome’s National Gallery.  Barney gained instant recognition as producer and creator of Cremaster films, a series layered with images, symbols and mixed with autobiography, history and mythology. The current exhibition  is a series of photographs and video extracted from Cremaster 3 theme. These works focus on the eternal struggle between life and death and the absurd irreconcilability between the two worlds. Barney’s work is in major museums and private collections. In 1996 he won the prestigious 2000 Europa prize at the 45th Biennale di Venezia. He was the first recipient of the Guggenheim Museum’s Hugo Boss Award.
    GNAM – Galleria Nazionale D’Arte Moderna, Viale Delle Belle Arti 131 (Parioli) Tuesday – Sunday, through October 7 tel 06 322 981
    Susan Crile – Abu Ghraib
    American painter and printmaker, Susan Crile exhibits a recent series of works on paper inspired by the photographs  taken at Abu Ghraib prison that  were circulated worldwide in the media. Writer, Mark Danner says the genius of Crile’s work is that ”it brings our eyes back to the images themselves and to the humanity of what they represent – back to the encounter between human beings that is at their heart.” The New York Times called the paintings "spectral icons of martyrdom." Outlining her figures in white chalk, the artist links her work technically to the ash covered carcasses of 9/11.
    Museo Di Roma in Trastevere,  Piazza di Sant’Egidio 1b,  Tuesday through Sunday, 10 am – 8pm   tel 06 581 6563
 

Alessandro Poma
Poma (1874 – 1960),  spent most of his artistic career in seclusion. Born in the town of Biella (Piemonte), Poma relocated to Rome in 1899 at the invitation of his friend, Prince Livio Borghese, and took up residency in the historic Borghese villa, the Casina Raffaello, where he remained until shortly before his death. By 1910, having decided to withdraw from artistic circuits, Poma bid farewell to public exhibitions of his work and for the rest of his life painted career in solitude, selling only to a small group of private collectors.  This is the first important exhibition of paintings from an artist whose works have up till recently remained  in the shadows. Art critic and curator, Maurizio Calvesi presents a thematic survey of Poma’s artistic output. Sixty-two works borrowed from private collections focus on themes of landscape, portraiture, animal studies, Villa Borghese fauna and the Roman countryside. A selection of fifteen works inspired by the Borghese park grounds characterizes the villa's lush  topography as it appeared during the first half of the 20th century.
Il Museo Carlo Bilotti  Viale Fiorello La Guardia  (on the grounds of the Villa Borghese) Tuesday – Sunday 9 am – 7 pm  tel 06 820 59 127

Ernesto Lamagna
Recent works in sculpture, drawing and painting by Maestro Ernesto Lamagna go on exhibition at Palazzo Venezia’s Grand Sala del Reflettorio. Borrowing themes from Medieval theology, Lamagna continues to explore the significance of the sacred and profane. Respectful of traditional and modern dialects, the artist incorporates themes of divinity and humanity. In ten large bronze sculptures, thirty drawings and four works on canvas in large dimension, he demonstrates his signature expressive style. The exhibition’s centerpiece, a large cross in bronze entitled “Il Deus sub contrario”,  was recently exhibited at the European Parliament in Brussels.
Palazzo Venezia, Via Del Plebiscito 118 (Piazza Venezia) Tuesday – Sunday, 9 am – 7 pm; through July 15 tel 06 6999 4319

George Grosz- Between Vision and Reality: The Theatrical and Political Works
The German artist George Grosz (Berlin 1893 – 1959), was known for combining artistic styles — Cubism, Futurism, then German Dadism  and Expressionism. Grosz was a member of the Bauhaus Group and is often associated with revolutionary artists Max Beckmann and Otto Dix. This retrospective exhibition, which is the first major showing of Grosz’ work in Italy, comprises two hundred pieces in drawing, water color, caricature, illustrations and oils, tracing the artist's thematic development from 1910 to 1959.
L’Académiè de France,  Villa Medici  Viale Trinità dei Monti, 1 (above Piazza di Spagna)
Tuesday – Sunday 11 am – 7 pm; through July 15 €8 tel 06 67 611

Charles Ruffret
A retrospective exhibition dedicated to the French sculptor Ruffret (1929 –2001), who is little known outside France, includes twenty works in sculpture and thirty drawings and sketches.
Atelier del Bosco - L’Académiè de France – Villa Medici  Viale Trinità dei Monti,1  
Tuesday – Sunday 11 am – 7 pm; through July 15 €7

I Profumi di Afrodite e il Segreto dell’olio: Archeological discoveries from Cypress
More than 100 finds of amphora vases, brass works, ceramics, stone, glass and alabaster unfold the secrets of ancient life in Cypress.
Musei Capitolini, Palazzo Caffarelli, Piazza del Campodoglio 1, through September 2

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Getaways: Rome's Summer Hotel Bargains

Hotel Navona
This small hotel gives travelers the experience of staying in a 15th century palace, in one of the best locations in Rome, just adjacent to the Piazza Navona, and a five minute walk to the Pantheon. The palace has been restored by its owner, your host, who is a descendant of aristocratic Italian families and an architect. The antique furnishings, frescoed walls and ancient coved ceilings lend charm to the hotel, while satellite TV, air-conditioning, safes and hair dryers give it modern comfort. Summer Special Offer : From 16 July 16 - 30 August 30,with minimum two night-stay, doubles €110 - 130, triples €150 - 160 greater discounts for longer stays. via dei Sediari 8 www.hotelnavona.com

Residenza Zanardelli
With the same owners as the Hotel Navona, the Zanardelli is a tiny seven-room guest house, occupying what would have been the residence floor of 19th century Baocchetto Romano palace. The rooms have been recently restored, without losing their historic charm, and many of them look out onto the beautiful Palazzo Altemps. All are equipped with satellite plasma TV, air conditioning, and telephone. Ideally located steps from the Piazza Navona, with a convenient cab stand and tourist information kiosk nearby.
Summer Special Offer : From 16 July 16 - 30 August 30, with minimum two night-stay, doubles €110 - 130, Via Zanardelli 7 www.hotelnavona.com

Hotel Forte
The Via Margutta is one of our favorite streets in Rome, quiet and tree-lined, just steps from the Piazza del Popolo and the Piazza di Spagna. It occupies a floor in an old palazzo, with only a handful of guest rooms. Rooms are comfortably decorated and immaculate. Hallways are spacious, with sitting areas, wifi, limited room service and a cleaning service are available. Each room has a private bath and is equipped with a hairdryer, direct dial phone, air conditioning, mini bar, a safe, and satellite plasma TV that gets CNN in English. Summer Special Offer: Doubles €110, discount of 10% on Sunday stays.
Via Margutta, 61 tel 06 3207625 www.hotelforte.com

Relais Le Clarisse
On the site of an ex-convent, the rooms of this little hotel open out onto a courtyard. The rooms are all spacious, some of them actually quite large, and they are all equipped with plasma tv, Jacuzzi tub or shower and wifi. Just opened in the past year, the hotel has been very tastefully decorated, with an airy feeling in all the rooms, wrought iron bed frames, bleached wood floors and lots of light. We've booked several friends here with excellent results. Located in Trastevere, the heart of Rome's nightlife and an easy walk across the bridge to all of the historic center's attractions. Summer Special Offer: During the month of August, doubles from €130 (high season price from €190) Via Cardinale Merry del Val tel 06 583 34437 www.leclarisse.com


Did You Know?

Macrobiotics and Massage
Rome's only macrobiotic restaurant is more than a place to eat great home cooking, it's a social center for those interested in shiastu massage, yoga, tai chi and roundtable discussions on culture and the arts. Stop in at this cozy Trastevere location to taste the unbelievably delicious organic beer, crafted my Italy's only female brewmaster.
Via Mattonato, 42 – tel 06 581 0626 www.tidiro.net

The legend of Zabaglione... You may have heard of Rome's delicate dessert, but did you know about its origins? After receiving frequent prayers and requests from desperate wives, Saint Pasquale Bayon invented a sweet concoction of eggs, sugar, and fortified wine to help energize their lazy husbands. This yummy dessert later became known as "Zabaglione" (Zah-bahl-yon-eh) after many mispronunciations of Saint Bayon's name. One of the best places in Rome to sample the authentic homemade dish is at Er Trasteverino in Trastevere (where else?) at the corner of via San Francesco a Ripa and Via Manarag. While you're in the neighborhood, you can visit the church built for this sweet-toothed saint found right across the street.

Noi Salon in the Piazza del Popolo is the home of Massimo, Rick and , three expert stylists who formerly headed salons in Southern California. They blend California's casual sophistication with European elegance, working in partnership with their clients to create a unique personal style.
Click here for the Noi Salon

Nail Bar is a full service beauty spa offering massages, facials, waxing and more. You'll find an English-speaking manager and an excellent manicure - pedicure, performed in the style of London, New York or Los Angeles. Conveniently located near the Capitoline and Piazza Venezia.
Click here for Nail Bar

Determina is a unique Rome-based service offering life coaching, business coaching, workshops and lectures. Their skilled coaches can help you achieve your professional goals, help you learn to make better decisions, and to use your instincts.
Click here for Determina.

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Copyright Joie Davidow and Vikki Ericks, 2007
Images copyright Augusto Ranocchi, 2007