by Barbara Cowlin
It's another small town along US Route 89 and Choteau would be easy to drive on through. We did stop there once before to eat at the Log Cabin Cafe, an appealing eatery with lots of flowers outside and good home-cooked food served in a warm atmosphere, inside. It's a fun place to take a break from driving, get a bite to eat and people watch. What you'll see is a mix of locals-ranchers and business people-and travelers, colorful motorcyclists, families on vacation.
On our latest trip along US 89 in August, we decided to take the time to explore more of what Choteau has to offer. We were motivated by the need to check email and update the blog and we were looking for a place to park the Pod (our teardrop trailer) for the night.
We have discovered that public libraries are great places to get online and Choteau's library located on Main Avenue was particularly accommodating. The librarians were friendly and very interested in our project when we explained what we were doing in town. We got fast internet access and a place to recharge our computers and cell phones in a comfortable space with nice artwork on the walls. Looking at the display of new books made me wish I had a library card-there were books that I'd just seen reviewed in the national press, right there on the shelves.
The next order of business was to find a place to camp. Jim prefers a pristine campground away from the crowds. I like a nice clean bathroom with running water and flush toilets. When in doubt, ask a librarian for a reference. Her suggestion was to try the city park around the corner. Jim was skeptical but what a nice surprise. Located just behind the big grain elevators, was a lovely park with a small creek, large shade trees, a grassy lawn and, best of all, immaculate bathrooms. We found a nice spot to park and, for a small fee, we were set for the night all within walking distance of the Log Cabin Café and the rest of downtown Choteau.
After a quiet night, we had a delicious breakfast at the Meeting Grounds located in an old bank building. Then we were off to explore more of Choteau.
One of the things that intrigues me about small towns is what I call creative combination shops such as Grizzly Sports. As the name implies you will find a wide array of outdoor equipment, but you will also find a selection books on local history, locally produced gift items and an espresso bar. And you know you're in Montana when you discover the large back room full of hunting rifles and ammunition.
Down the street and around the corner is what must be one of the most unique shops I've ever visited. Curly Willow Basins is a combination plumbing supply, florist and gift store. I've never seen such appealing toilets and sinks, not to mention the local crafts that are displayed here and there. At the back of the store you can by fresh cut flowers and all around is quirky and unique merchandise. You just have to be there to believe it.
Almost every town along US Route 89 has some sort of history museum to display the artifacts of local culture and Choteau's is exceptional. The Old Trail Museum takes its name from the pathway followed for thousands of years by native Americans along the Rocky Mountains. There are history exhibits such as the last execution by hanging in Choteau complete with the noose.
If you are traveling with children (of any age) an entire room is devoted to dinosaur fossils that have been unearthed in the nearby Two Medicine formation. We spent a good hour roaming around and could have spent much longer. Also on the museum grounds are historic buildings including an old-fashioned ice cream parlor.
Our last stop was another combination-this time books and natural foods. These were actually two separate shops but with an adjoining doorway. Oasis books is filled floor to ceiling with new and used books, an invitation to bibliophiles like us to spend hours browsing. An especially fine collection of rare and first edition books distinguishes Oasis from the usual used bookstore. Once you've made your selection, you can go next door to find locally grown organic produce and other natural foods to fill your picnic basket.
We left Choteau with some regret. Lingering longer to spend more time chatting with more local folks certainly was appealing. Imagining rushing through town and missing out on what makes it unique served to reinforce our mission: take the slow road. Stop often, walk around, meet people and learn about local history and culture. After all, where else can you find a combination plumbing/florist shop that makes you want to come back to see what you might have missed that is equally fascinating.
See more photos fo Choteau on the
Great Falls to Browning Road Trip Guide on the US Route 89 website.
