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Issue 7
July 2007
The Verde River
As I climbed on to the back of the horse, I began to wonder what I had gotten myself into. The last time I saw this section of the Verde River twenty years earlier, I was on foot with a 60 pound backpack, two cameras and 50 rolls of film. My goal was to walk the entire length of the river photographing the landscape it created. Now here I was setting out on horseback with my cameras to document changes to the greenbelt along the banks of this vital desert river in central Arizona.

I have been fascinated by the Verde since I first encountered it 35 years ago. I vividly remember seeing the Verde Valley and being astonished by the space and distance that I could see in the West. Having been born and raised in Ohio where the views are more gentle and constrained, I had a hard time getting used to views that could stretch for 50 miles or more.

In 1979 I took a month off from commercial work to concentrate on landscape photography full-time. I chose the Verde River as my subject. Walking the 200 mile length of the river taught me about the beauty and wildness of my new home state. I also learned valuable lessons in self-reliance and being alone, but that is a story for another time.

The horseback ride was at the request of the owners of the Bar Heart Ranch who graze cattle near the section of the Verde a few miles downstream from the Chino Valley. I went back to several spots from which I had photographed on the Verde River Walk and took new photos. The rancher had changed grazing practices to improve the riparian habitat and the photographs show a dramatic improvement.

Verde River-1979/1998

My latest encounter with the Verde was earlier this year at the request of High Country News. They were publishing an article about a controversial pipeline which would capture water in the aquifer feeding the Verde and divert it to the rapidly growing towns of Prescott and Prescott Valley. For more details, you can read the article on the HCN website. Working on that article gave me a chance to revisit the first couple of miles of the river canyon and experience again its stark beauty.

Route 89 touches the Verde in two places. The source of the river is near the town of Paulden in the Chino Valley north of Prescott. Here springs and underground aquifers come together and gradually cut down through the volcanic rock. About 40 miles down stream, scenic route 89A crosses the river in the Verde Valley.

Fall Foliage-The Verde River at Bear SidingThere are several ways to experience the beauty of the Verde for yourself. Most of the river between the Chino Valley and the Verde Valley flows through the Prescott National Forest. There are several points of access from Forest Service roads including one of my favorites at Bear Siding. (Caution: this road is very rough and not suitable for passenger vehicles.) Consult a Prescott National Forest map for exact routes and check out the information on the website.

In the Verde Valley on Historic Route 89A, you can visit prehistoric Indian ruins at Tuzigoot National Monument. Just up the road from Tuzigoot is the access point for Sycamore Canyon Wilderness. This is a wonderful spot for day hiking or overnight camping in a remote and beautiful riparian environment. Watch for the beaver pond along the trail. Dead Horse Ranch State Park in Cottonwood offers picnicking and hiking along the river banks.

While you're in the Verde Valley, book a ride on the Verde Canyon Railroad. The four-hour trip is on the rail line that originally supplied the copper mines at Jerome and takes you into the red-rock canyon between Clarkdale and the ghost town of Perkinville. Along the way you might spot one of the bald eagles that nest on the Verde.

Along the Verde River you will find all of the ingredients that make up the West. You can explore the beautiful and rugged environment of a desert river. You can experience the cultures that have thrived here from prehistoric native Americans, to earlier settlers and miners to contemporary society. You can also learn about the environmental and political issues which we must solve to accommodate growth without sacrificing the reason for being here.
US Route 89 Website Almost Ready for Primetime
Your suggestions are needed for the final touches.

us89society.org home pageI have been working diligently (well, not quite-see following article) to get the new website ready of the public. My goal is to have the site be the most comprehensive source of information about US Route 89 on the web. I will add new content to the site on a regular basis with details about all of the wonderful places to visit along the highway. But I can't do it all alone. I need your help. You can add your own content to the site. All you have to do is register with your name and email address and then you can upload stories and pictures. Your contribution will be linked to the appropriate segment of the road and will be tagged so others can search for topics of interest.

Within the bounds of good taste, anything is acceptable for a user contribution. Tell your fellow road trippers about that special spot where you love to watch the sunset. Have you found a great place to eat? Give us a the details so we can try it for ourselves. Do you own a business on route 89? Go ahead and tells us about it. Don't forget to add directions and a picture.

Before I open the website to the public, I need to get some user feedback. I invite you to go online and poke around in the site. Take a look at the Road Trip Guides. The most complete guide is for the Nogales to Tucson segment. It is an example of how all of the Road Trip Guides will eventually look. Let me know if you find it useful.

I also need to have you test the Share Your Stories section. Find the link to the registration form and upload a story and photo. Be sure to add tags. Then send me an email to let me know of any problems or suggestions for improvement. Each person who registers on the site and sends me feedback by August 3rd will receive a free set of US Route 89 notecards as a "thank you".
On a Personal Note
After living in Phoenix for 35 years, I have moved my base of operation to Ajo, Arizona, in the southwestern part of the state. The move occupied most of my time and all of my energy for the month of June. Unfortunately, it also delayed the publication of this newsletter and the completion of the website.

Curley School Artisan HousingAjo is an old copper mining town that fell on hard times when the mine closed in the mid-80's. Now it is undergoing a revival as an artists' community. The beautiful old Curley School which was built in 1919 has been renovated into live/work spaces for artists. My wife, Barbara, and I made the move so that we could devote ourselves full-time to making art. Barbara has the studio of her dreams where she is painting and taking up print making again after teaching art for the last ten years. I am now able to pursue my passion for landscape and nature photography more intensely. In particular, I will be able to devote most of my energy to completing the US Route 89 project over the next year and a half.

Organ Pipe CactusAjo is also the gateway town to Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument which preserves a prime example of life in the Sonoran Desert. For many years it has been one of my favorite places to photograph and I'm looking forward to many happy hours hiking is the Ajo Mountains. If all goes as planned, I will be offering a photography workshop next spring for those who are interested in exploring this unique landscape with a camera.

The artists of Curley School are planning a number of events beginning when the weather cools off in the fall. I'll pass along details in this newsletter when they become available. Visit the Curley School website for information about the project. If you are an artist looking for a new and exciting place to live and work, there are still apartments available. Details and application forms are on the website.
Support the "Slow Road" Movement:
Join the US Route 89 Appreciation Society
US Route 89 Appreciation SocietyYou love driving the two-lane highways that keep you close to the edge of the road so you can see the land at a leisurely pace. You think nothing of stopping along the way to admire the view and smell the fresh air. You seek out unique places to eat where the special of the day depends on what's in season at the nearby farm. You already appreciate the opportunities offered by a journey on US Route 89.
You are not alone in your passion for a trip on a "slow road." There are many others like you. Together we can spread the word of the joys of leisurely travel. Join the US Route 89 Appreciation Society and you'll receive an official membership certificate and button to attest to your belief in the "slow road" movement.

General Membership: $5
Benefits:
� Membership Certificate
� Membership Badge
� Email Newsletter
� Invitations to all project events

Download the Membership Brochure in pdf format