Along 89...News & Information from the US Route 89 Appreciation Society

July 2006
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Go Take A Walk

You never really know a place until you see it on foot. That is true whether you are visiting a national park, a large city or a small town. Get out of your car. Just amble about or take a guided walking tour. You are sure to encounter the unexpected and come away richer for the experience.

A Self-Guided Walking Tour of Wickenburg, Arizona
 
Wickenburg Historic Buildings

I?ve driven through Wickenburg numerous times. I?ve eaten there a few times. I even did some photographs for a book about the town, but I had never walked around Wickenburg until last month. From a pleasant two-hour walk I gained a new perspective on the history and culture of the American West at the turn of the last century. One particular historic building on the tour offered up a mystery that led me to research the little known story about the place of black women in settling the West.

The Wickenburg Chamber of Commerce has published a guide and map to historic buildings and places. Pick it up at the Chamber office in the old Sante Fe Railroad Depot which is a good place to start your walk.

For me, four of the buildings on the tour stand out not only for their architecture but also for the stories they tell. The Sante Fe Depot was built in 1895 following the completion of the Sante Fe, Prescott & Phoenix rail line in 1893. The beginning of train service marked the coming of age of Wickenburg as an important source of precious metals and livestock.

You can?t miss the bright red brick Garcia School which is now home to the Wickenburg Cultural Organization. It was built in 1905 to replace a wooden structure and is located on land donated by Don Ygnacio Garcia, a trustee of the school district and benefactor to the town. Stop in and chat with Dianne Baker, the Director, and browse the collection of Wickenburg memorabilia.

The Trinidad House, built in 1863, may be the oldest home in Arizona. At various times it served as a military post, a stage stop and a general store.

...which brings us to the Hassayampa Building and the fascinating history of black women in the West.


Elizabeth Hudson Smith and the Vernetta Hotel
 

Elizabeth Hudson was born in Alabama in 1869, the daughter of freed slaves. She married a Pullman porter named Bill Smith in 1896. He worked for the Sante Fe, Prescott & Phoenix railroad which passed through Wickenburg. This prompted them to move to Wickenburg in 1897, where they invested their savings into a rundown hotel. They fixed the place up and Elizabeth?s talents as a cook soon had the business thriving.

Around 1900, the Sante Fe railroad asked the Smiths to build a new hotel near the train station. Borrowing money against property left to them by Bill?s mother, Elizabeth hired noted architect James Creighton to design the hotel which they named in honor of Bill?s mother, Vernetta.

Elizabeth Smith was one of many entrepreneurial black women who ran hotels and other businesses throughout the western United States in the early 20th century. Racism was institutionalized in Arizona with the passage of segregation laws in 1901. In spite of legal discrimination, black women often prospered more than their white counterparts. They had higher literacy rates, were often older, married and had fewer children. They also tended to settle in urban areas.

The Vernetta Hotel thrived and became an important meeting place for Wickenburg citizens. However, the Depression changed everything. As often happens in hard times, people look for a scapegoat. They stopped patronizing the Vernetta and even ousted Elizabeth from the Presbyterian church that she helped to found.

Elizabeth Smith died in 1935, leaving a large estate to distant relatives. Despite all she had done for the development of Wickenburg, the community would not allow her to be buried in the town?s main cemetery. She now lies in the Garcia Cemetery outside of town among the Mexicans, African Americans, Asians and Indians who remained loyal to her until the end.

In recent years, the people of Wickenburg have recognized Elizabeth Smith?s contribution to the growth of the town. A life-size street scene in the Desert Caballeros Western Museum includes a reproduction of the Vernetta Hotel with a mannequin to represent her and a description of her accomplishments. Her grave site is well-maintained along with the other prominent pioneer families.

Now called the Hassayampa Building, the Vernetta is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

For more information about Elizabeth Hudson Smith and other Arizona pioneer women, see More Than Petticoats: Remarkable Arizona Women by Wynne Brown.


Support the "Slow Road" Movement
 

US Route 89 Appreciation Society
You love driving the two-lane highways that keep you close to the edge of the road so you can see the land at a leisurely pace. You think nothing of stopping along the way to admire the view and smell the fresh air. You seek out unique places to eat where the special of the day depends on what?s in season at the nearby farm. You already appreciate the opportunities offered by a journey on US Route 89.

You are not alone in your passion for a trip on a ?slow road.? There are many others like you. Together we can spread the word of the joys of leisurely travel. Join the US Route 89 Appreciation Society and you?ll receive an official membership certificate and button to attest to your belief in the "slow road" movement.

Individual General Membership: $5

Download the Membership Brochure in pdf format



James Cowlin
US Route 89 Appreciation Society

Phone: 1-866-944-3286
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