|
|
|
Greetings!
I have had it! This heat is draining every ounce of desire I have to be outside. I watered early this morning and as I look outside this afternoon you can barely tell that I watered anything. I am starting to feel guilty for watering as often as I am. Our irrigation system, which not only waters the lawn but also a few beds, is running for 30 minutes four days a week. Our water bill is going to be sky high! How do I manage to keep all of my shrubs, trees and perennials alive without watering in these extreme temperatures? That is the question that I'm sure is being asked by many others. If we don't see some rain soon I'm afraid of losing some very well established plants.
I was watching the national news last night and they were reporting on the drought and extreme temperatures which are blanketing 80% of the United States! It was shocking to hear that there are so many states dealing with moderate to severe drought conditions and blistering heat. It is times like these when making notes in a gardening journal become helpful. Drought tolerant perennials like coneflower, black-eyed Susan and Russian sage are a few that always seem to do well even in this sweltering heat (photos). Good plant selection is the key but with drought conditions like these it becomes difficult to keep anything alive.
We know you love Savvygardener but do you like us? We're on Facebook and look forward to seeing you there too... |
|
|
Bitter Cucumbers?
A bitter taste in cucumbers is the result of stress that can be caused by a number of factors, including heredity, moisture, temperature, soil characteristics and disease. Most often this occurs during the hot part of the summer or later in the growing season.
Two compounds, cucurbitacins B and C, give rise to the bitter taste. Though often only the stem end is affected, at times the entire fruit is bitter. Also, most of the bitter taste is found in and just under the skin. Bitter fruit is not the result of cucumbers cross-pollinating with squash or melons. These plants cannot cross-pollinate with one another.
Often newer varieties are less likely to become bitter than older ones. Proper cultural care is also often helpful. Make sure your plants have the following:
- Well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5.
- Plenty of organic matter also helps.
- Mulch helps conserve moisture and keep roots cool during hot, dry weather.
- Adequate water especially during the fruiting season.
- Disease and insect control.
Source
|
Revitalize Herbs...
If your basil and thyme look like they need an extreme makeover you can revitalize them by cutting them back severely. This will stimulate a clean new flush of growth, free of any insect and disease damage incurred since spring.
|
Thump Goes The Melon...
Watermelon growers may have some pretty big fruit by now. You don't want to harvest your melons too early! Just check for these tell-tale indicators of ripeness:
- The underside ground spot turns from whitish to creamy yellow.
- The tendril closest to the melon turns brown and shrivels.
- The rind loses its gloss and appears dull.
- The melon produces a dull thud rather than a ringing sound when thumped.
|
|
The Cutting Gardener...
When gardens are blooming the way they have been lately it's a shame not to spread the beauty around. How? By bringing some of it inside! Before you try it yourself there are some procedures to follow if you really want to do it right:
- Start when flower stems are full of water - either early morning (6 to 8 AM) or late evening (7 to 9 PM).
- Carry a clean bucket filled with very warm (100 to 120º F) water.
- Always use sharp, very clean scissors or pruners when cutting.
- Immediately place any cut flowers in the bucket of warm water.
- When you bring the flowers in, re-cut each flower under water. This pulls water into the stems more quickly. Flowers that are not re-cut immediately after picking can lose up to 60% of their vase life.
- Place the bucket of re-cut flowers in a cool area, such as the basement and allow them to hydrate or harden for at least one hour (although overnight is best).
- Arrange, display, enjoy!
Source
|
|
Plucking Petunias...
Deadheading petunias is a sure-fire way to keep them blooming all summer long. But sometimes gardeners have trouble knowing which ones stay and which ones go. Spent blossoms often look very much like unopened petunia buds. If you're unsure just remember that spent petunia blossoms are shrunken and have little substance to them and come off with a gentle tug. Immature buds feel full and hang on a little tighter.
|
|
Autumn Blooming Bulbs...
The savviest of Savvygardeners know that there are a number of autumn-blooming bulbs that really perk up the fall garden and landscape. Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale) also known as meadow saffron, mysteria, or naked boys produces pink to lavender crocus-like flowers in the fall and there is no foliage present when the plants are in bloom. Dark green leaves will emerge in the spring, remain until summer, then turn yellow and die to the ground. After which, the flowers magically appear in the fall again.
Colchicums should be planted immediately after purchase or delivery in August or September or they will start to bloom in their packaging. Plant the corms in clumps, 2-3 inches deep in well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade. Pretty!
|
|
Too Tall Turf...
If you've been away on vacation and your lawn is extra tall be careful about cutting too much at once. As a rule you should cut no more than one-third of the grass height at a time. If necessary, try setting your mower height to the highest setting for a first cutting. Then wait two-three days and cut again at a reduced height.
|
|
Finally...
"Heat, ma'am! it was so dreadful here, that I found there was nothing left for it but to take off my flesh and sit in my bones."
~ Sydney Smith, Lady Holland's Memoir
|
© 1999-2012 Savvygardener.com Inc. All rights reserved. If you wish to copy, transmit, or otherwise duplicate any of the material from our website
please ask us first. Thank you.
|
|
|
|
|
