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Greetings!
Today is supposed to be one of the hottest July 4th's on record. It sure feels like it. The thermometer reads a blazing 101°. It is supposed to be hotter tomorrow with the high reaching 103°. A 30% chance of rain on Monday when a cold front passes through hopefully bringing much needed rain and dropping temperatures. This heat is wearing me down. I feel like I do the same thing every day. I get up, I water. I get ready for bed, I water. Repeat, repeat, repeat. It sure is getting old. Anyone else feeling that way?
Have you noticed the leaves falling off the trees? They are dropping like crazy and are making quite a mess on the patio. This drought we are experiencing is playing havoc with many plants. I have a Lacecap hydrangea, "Lemon Wave" that is barely hanging on. I have not determined its exact problem other than it is hot. The tap water doesn't seem to be helping. I'd bet a good dose of rainwater from Mother Nature would do the trick. This particular hydrangea has always looked fabulous and has lived in the same spot for four years. I must admit I'm perplexed and am hoping that this nasty weather breaks soon. I would hate to lose this plant or any others. I guess there is only so much one gardener can do.
Too hot to send Kevin into the garden for pix so I had him shoot some nice photos at the Overland Park Farmers market this morning. Enjoy!
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Invigorating Irises...
To promote growth, vigor and optimum flowering, iris clumps may be raised and divided every three years or so. Dig up the rhizomes carefully to avoid damage to rhizomes and their roots. Examine them for the presence of worm-like insects called iris borers, which may seriously damage or destroy the plant. If they are found, remove them, cut out the affected tissue and dust with a garden insecticide, such as Sevin, before replanting. Select sound rhizomes with two or more growing points. Rhizomes may be cut apart with a sharp knife, or snapped apart by hand. Be sure to preserve as many rhizome roots as possible. The best time to divide iris is in mid-summer while the plants are dormant. Late July through mid August is preferred.
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When Is A Tomato Ripe?
Early July starts tomato ripening time in Kansas City. We've all heard of 'vine ripe' flavor but does a tomato have to remain on the vine until it is completely ripe? The answer is no. When a tomato reaches a full size and the fruit becomes a pale green, it begins the ripening process which is regulated by an internal gas produced within the fruit called ethylene. After the tomato reaches a stage when it's about ½ green and ½ pink (called the 'breaker stage'), a layer of cells forms across the stem of the tomato- sealing it from the main vine. At this point there is nothing moving from the plant into the fruit. At this stage the tomato can be harvested and ripened off the vine with no loss of flavor, quality or nutrition.
Red pigments in tomatoes don't form above 95°F so tomatoes ripened in extreme heat will have a orange-red color. Tomatoes held at cooler temperatures will ripen slower. You can speed up or slow down the ripening process by raising the temperature (to an optimum of 85°F) or lowering the temperature (to a minimum of 50°F). Tomatoes develop their optimum flavor, nutrition, and color when the tomato is in the full red ripe stage but this doesn't have to occur on the plant!
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When To Pick A Pepper...
Depending on what variety of bell pepper you are growing and what color you want it to be you have different guidelines to follow for the timing of your harvest. Green bell varieties are usually picked when they are fully grown and mature - 3 to 4 inches long, firm and green. Colored bell peppers start out green but should be left on the plant until they develop full flavor and ripen fully to red, yellow, orange or brown.
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Fall Crops Begin Now...
A fall harvest of cabbage, vine crops, broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts means setting transplants in late July. For lettuce, radish, carrots, beets, turnips, kale, and spinach, you should sow seeds in late July to early August.
Brussels sprouts are especially good fall crops as their flavor is enhanced by a mild frost. They are hungry little guys so make monthly applications of 5-10-10 fertilizer at a rate of ½ cup per square yard from the time the plants are 4 inches tall through harvest.
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Dormez Vous Fescue?
This time of year many cool-season grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass, fescue and perennial rye will naturally go dormant and turn brown due to lack of water or too much heat. Remember, the lawn is not dead - it's only dormant and will green up again when the weather is more favorable in the fall. Mow it regularly to about three inches and water during extended dry periods.
Now, we've been around long enough to know that most of you can't stand the idea of brown grass all summer. If you wish to keep the lawn green you will need to follow a regular watering routine before the lawn begins to brown. Once the lawn goes dormant watering will not generally green it up until fall. You will need about 1 inch of rain or irrigation per week. It is better to give the lawn a good soaking (to a 6 inch depth) once a week than frequent light watering. Always water early in the day to reduce disease occurrence.
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Shady Characters...
Looking for a good, low exertion chore for the hot weather? Try inspecting your shade trees and the grass below them. They may be getting so full of branches that not enough sunlight filters through to your grass. If your grass is just not making it under a particular tree you can stand in its shade and make some notes for future pruning. You'd be surprised how well grass will respond to even a moderate amount of increased sunlight.
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Finally...
"Freedom has its life in the hearts, the actions, the spirit of men and so it must be daily earned and refreshed - else like a flower cut from its life-giving roots, it will wither and die."
~ Dwight D. Eisenhower
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