Chef Mavro restaurant
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Letter from Chef Mavro
Summer 2011
                                                           

Reserve your Table  24/7 

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in this letter...
Tako Ceviche
Roasted Maitake Mushrooms
Seared Foie Gras Kumquats
Big Island Abalone
Goat Cheese 1 minute strawberry jam

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Back from a Greek Island with Flavors of Summer    

 

Just back from Symi the island in Greece where my father was born. 

 

This was one of my rare real vacations. In fact when I travel it's usually for a Hawaii promotion and I always try to mix business with pleasure where ever I am; Bora Bora, Japan, Chile, New York etc...but this was just vacation. Just a Greek Island with no schedules, no plans, no stress. 

 

My friends always ask me, what is so special about Symi?  Are there vestiges to visit, sandy beaches to tan, events to attend, Michelin rated restaurants to explore, is the shopping exceptional?...None of the above,  just the island, the neo-classical houses, crystal clear waters, the most beautiful bleu sky with no trace of clouds, wonderful people, great ingredients. Symi is Symi one of the most beautiful place in the world.  And it's My Symi!   

 

In fact I was very busy on vacation with home cooking which I love as much as restaurant cooking...This time we rented a restored historic villa (which is the best way to vacation in Greece) and I was cooking for my wife and my Greek friends.  The ingredients: tomatoes (you don't know tomatoes until you have this kind of tomatoes). Extra virgin olive oil, capers & caper leaves, Kalamata olives, cucumbers, strawberries, bell peppers, goat & ewe cheeses, goat milk yogurt, honey, fish and seafood direct from the fishermen to mention just a few.

Symi fishing boats
The harbor in Symi, Greece 

 

 

Nimborio Symi
Nimborio, Symi, Greece

 We had goat milk yogurt with Symi honey and fresh-picked strawberries for every single breakfast; Greek salad every day for lunch & dinner.  Octopus-chickpea salad, octopus seviche, grilled octopus, octopus stew, dry octopus you name it...We had local fish such as rock fish, sea bream, local oysters and rock mussels, sea urchins, snapper, grouper, slipper lobster, red mullet, murène (eel)...grilled, poached, baked, sautéed...I went fishing with a local fisherman and caught about 5 pounds of rock fish which made a perfect fish soup...

 

Did I mention? Plump free range chicken, baby goat roasted and stew, baby lamb. I learned how to make a good tzatziki (my tzatziki before was way too French), tarama, eggplant caviar, hummus...those were every day on our table.We drank ouzo, raki...white wine from Santorini, red wine from Macedonia. We had such a good time!

 

But you know what!  Even if this was one of our best vacations we were happy to come back home...One of the many wonderful advantages to live in Honolulu!   

 

View Summer Menus here 

   

 

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New Summer Menus 

 

I would like to take this opportunity to welcome our new chef de cuisine Paul Feng (ex Tabla New York and Postrio San Francisco). Check out Lesa Griffith's story about Paul on the Biting Commentary blog.  For Paul the new summer menu was his first opportunity to work with me on the new dishes. I like changes!  They always bring new energy and positive vibes.  We never changed so many recipes on a seasonal menu.

 

Tako Ceviche, Wow Farm tomato granite and juice seasoned with espelette, jalapeno cucumber brunoise, red onion shavings 

I developed a new appreciation for octopus!  This time we created the most summery dish ever. 

Tako Ceviche

Tako Ceviche; the octopus is thinly sliced and served with the Big Island's Wow Farm tomato granité (a kind of tomato sorbet beautifully executed by Paul), we also press the tomato into fresh juice flavored with espelette (our favorite chili pepper from the Basque country), red & green jalapeno, cucumber and red onion shavings.  The granité is topped with extra virgin olive oil. 

This dish is going to drop by 30% the ambient temperature (too bad it is not served on the beach).

Our wine committee had to pick up a summer wine and it did!  A Chinon rosé from Jean-Maurice Raffault.  Like most of the wine in the Loire region this rosé is made from the Cabernet Franc grape.  It has a natural fruity acidity and a slight degree of residual sugar which balances perfectly the spiciness of the tomato juice. 

 

 

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Roasted Maitake Mushrooms, sesame accented artichoke puree, yuzu vinaigrette 

 

Maitake, is one of my favorite Japanese mushrooms.  It tastes great and it looks beautiful.  You don't want to touch it.  So we didn't touch it, just baked it whole in a 250 degree oven for 10 minutes.  It comes direct to your plate just seasoned with a yuzu sesame vinaigrette, served on the top of an artichoke purée and pickled shallots.

 

                                                                              

Maitake Mushrooms

 

This is the simplest recipe we have produced in my kitchen but is also the most difficult to execute properly...in cooking, simplicity is never easy.

 

Because of the artichoke I was very concerned about the wine paring.  I was wrong...the committee loved the Bourgueil...one more wine from the Loire region!  No doubt it is summer time.  This red wine is from Domaine de Matabrune; it fell in love with the maitake and didn't care about the presence of the artichoke; if you don't try, you don't know. 

 

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Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, Kumquats, Li Hing Mui 

 

I am very pleased with the new foie gras.  It is seared, deglazed with Balsamic vinegar and served with ribbons of green mango marinated with Sherry vinegar and sugar. 

 

Fois Gras Kumquats 

When I first arrived in Hawaii I was very impressed with local flavors (still am!).  The green mango marinated in soy sauce and sugar was one of them.  Since I have a problem with shoyu and wine pairing I decided to substitute the shoyu by sherry vinegar.   The result is very similar and the dish is easier to match with wines. 

 

We finish the dish with poached kumquats sautéed in the foie gras glaze and seasoned with li hing mui.

 

Wow! If somebody says that my cooking is boring I'll kill myself (or I kill him).

 

I know that you have already guessed that the wine is a German Spätlese (late harvest) Riesling; the best pairing with sautéed foie gras!  But you don't know that is from J.J. Prüm winery. Very fresh for a late harvest and very fruity of course; its delicate flavors blend beautifully with the foie gras.

 


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Big Island Abalone, garam masala fresh oyster sauce, cassava pearls, sea asparagus tempura 

 

I am happy to put Abalones back in the menu. 

 

Abalone Sea Asparagus

 

I am a chef from the nouvelle cuisine era, this French culinary revolution started about 35 years ago (nothing really "nouvelle" about that).  So at that time I was working (as well as many French chefs) to remove cream, butter and flour from our cooking.  So we were using mostly vegetable purées as butter and cream substitutes to finish our sauces.  I found that one of the best ways to replace cream & butter in a seafood sauce is to use fresh oyster.  The oysters are blended in the sauce which gives a smooth and creamy consistency...brilliant!  This is the best and tastiest "sauce supreme."   

 

Let's go back to the Abalones...The abalones are confit for 5 minutes in 140 degree extra virgin olive oil (you can hold you finger inside the oil without any danger to be burnt).  They are served with a garam masala sauce.  I use my technique with fresh oysters to finish the sauce.  The dish is topped with one of my favorite things in the world, sea asparagus tempura!

 

Sea Asparagus Farm North Shore Oahu
Dr. Wenhao Sun & his floating rafts of
sea asparagus in Kahuku

 

The pairing is the Napa Valley Fumé Blanc from Grgich Estate.Who said I don't like new world wines?  In fact I like only wines that go with the food I have in my plate.  No countries, no friends, no bias...I eat and I drink only what is delicious; life is too short! Anyway, I don't decide the pairing, our wine committee does and I have one vote like everyone!

 

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Hawaii Island Fresh Goat Cheese Mousse, one minute green peppercorn strawberry jam, ma'o farm arugula salad 

 

After tasting the beautiful fresh goat cheese from Hawaii Island Goat Dairy in Honokaa, Big Island, Paul told me, "I would like a combination of strawberries and arugula with this recipe."

 

Bingo!  Good opportunity to feature this amazing recipe, "one minute strawberry jam!"


Goat Cheese 1 MinJam

 

Here is the secret!  In a bowl, mix together one pound strawberries, ½ pound sugar and the juice from one lemon.  Pre-heat a cast iron skillet to smoky high heat, pour the strawberry mix and sauté for one minute (or a little more according to the ripeness of the fruit).  At the reaction of the high heat the strawberries don't melt and you get the most beautiful strawberry jam in one minute. (This is why it is very important to read my newsletter to the end.  You get the recipe of the year for free!)

 

The goat cheese mousse is flavored with lemon zest and chive.  The jam with green peppercorn and 

the dish is topped with a baby arugula salad.  

 

Interesting detail about the wine; I am not sure why, but I was certain that a pinot noir would be the best match with this dish...Oops! Error! Horror! 

We finally came up with a port.  The Warre's Otima 10 years old tawny very comfortable with its aromas of dates, raisin, plum, anise and vanilla...  I told you, if you don't try you don't know...

 

Ok!  I got excited and I don't want to rewrite the Library of Congress!

 

I will stop here...but don't miss our new Kurobuta Kau Yuk crispy on the skin, our new Lobster à la Thai (pictured below), our new version of the Chocolate Crèmeux etc...

 

Check the complete Summer Menu in our web site www.chefmavo.com and we look forward to cooking for you soon.

 

To Feasts & Friends,

George Mavro  

 

 Lobster Thai

 

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We're always looking for motivated experienced staff; email Chef Mavro