|
|
|
|
|
|
Lucky Dog Sports Club in Jupiter
Positive, rewards-based
dog training
November 2011
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
 | |
Mindy Cox and Runi
|
Greetings! Thanks for reading!
Agility enthusiasts, register now!
We will be hosting world-class agility instructor Jennifer Crank at Lucky Dog on January 27-29, 2012 to do a handling seminar. I've trained with her before and I was so impressed with her knowledge, talent and communication skills. She can help you achieve even better results on your agility runs! I am only going to take 10 teams per day so everyone gets lots of attention. The Friday date is already full (you can still audit) but there are a few spots still open on Saturday and Sunday so register now! For more information, see below, or please go to our website. New classes are scheduled.
If you don't see what you want, please let me know and I will personally notify you when it does get onto our calendar.
Does your dog ignore you when you call? Not only is that pretty annoying, but it can also become life threatening if you need him back pronto. Find out how to make positive adjustments in your dog's 'tude! See the article in this issue. Porky Pooch?Let's all get on the health bandwagon and walk for fitness! Just 30 minutes a day can make a big difference. Also, be sure not to overfeed your pets high calorie or fattening holiday fare. There's more to worry about than an expanding waistline. A bout of pancreatitis in your dog can be a serious health threat. Read both articles below.  All of us at Lucky Dog wish you and your loved ones a very happy, healthy & safe Thanksgiving! We are thankful and blessed to have all of our awesome dog-loving friends and clients in our lives. Thank you.
Woof and wags!
Mindy
Mindy Cox, BS, CPDT-KA
Training Director
  Want a printable version of this newsletter? Click here.
|
| |
Work With Your Dog Not Against Him
| |
Teaching Your Dog Self Control
by Suzanne Clothier
Does your dog pull on lead when someone approaches? When he sees another dog? if joggers run by? if children are playing? if a cat or squirrel dash through the yard? Is he hard to control at the vet's or groomer's? when people come into your house?
If the answer to any of these questions is yes, chances are your dog needs to learn self control. Just as children must learn to control their impulses before they can mature into responsible adults, dogs must learn self control before they can become well mannered canine citizens. Self control must be taught, just as you teach him to sit or speak or come when called. Every owner can teach his dog self control by following these guidelines: 1. Train, don't restrain. Taking a firm grip on the leash and collar teaches the dog nothing except that you can restrain him. Instead, give a simple command, such as sit, reminding with the lead if needed, then loosen the lead so there is no tension at all. If the dog breaks position, quietly and slowly reposition him, and loosen the lead again. 2. Ask for compliance, not submission. View working with your dog as you would working with any friend. Avoid creating a struggle by asking the dog for more than he can do at the time. For example, if your dog is really excited, he may be unable or unwilling to lay down, but agreeable to sitting quietly with a few reminders from you. Compromise and be reasonable - most struggles between dog and owner are created when the owner attempts to dominate the dog, instead of finding a solution acceptable to both owner and dog. 3. Remember the dog does not know what his options are. A dog who is lacking self control simply does not know that it is possible to sit quietly in the face of distractions. It is the owner's responsibility to show the dog that he has options other than lunging, pulling or leaping around. 4. Move slowly and talk quietly. A dog who is highly excited needs calm, slow handling. A common mistake owners make is to move quickly, grabbing at the leash and collar, raising their voice and speaking in short, sharp tones. From the dog's point of view, the owner appears as excited as they are, and short sharp tones often sound like barking. Instead of calming the dog, this reinforces his excitement. By moving slowly and talking quietly, the owner sends a clear message to the dog that he is not excited and is in control of the situation. 5. Remind and ask, don't demand. A dog who is already excited is likely to resist a harsh correction or respond by becoming more excited. "Ask" by using the lightest possible touch on the leash and collar, and remind the dog what he's doing each time he forgets and shifts position. 6. Work on teaching self control in all situations. Begin by working in distraction free areas, and ask your dog to sit on a loose leash for five minutes. Gradually move on to more exciting situations, and practice often. Work at home, at friends' homes, in parks, shopping centers, at dog shows, training classes and the veterinarian's. As your dog's self control and respect for you increases, you can add laying down quietly for up to 30 minutes to his skills.
|
|
Who Needs a Stinkin' Leash?
| |
You're at the beach and you call your dog. He totally ignores you! But he does it at home perfectly, you think. Why not now? Perhaps he's thinking that coming to you is not as rewarding as playing with the other dogs. And when he comes to you the good times stop. What do you do?
Teaching Your Dog to "Come When Called"
By Sophia Yin, DVM, MS
The problem with speaking English instead of using made-up words is that we assume our pets know what we mean. We say, "Sit" and expect Fido to drop his derrier, but the command Fido's learned is "sit, sit, sit, SIT!"
Then once he's done the deed, we praise with "Goodsit," when just "Good" would do, thinking that Fido understands that "good" modifies the word "sit." Do we think "Gooddown," or "Goodstay" would cause him to walk away confused, or that "Goodgirl" would cause a boy bowser to develop a gender identity problem?
These minor language misconceptions probably seem moot; however, when the message we want to convey is for Fido to come right away, proper communication may save the day. If Fido could race over every time we called, imagine the possibilities.
When Fido darts out an open door, you could call him once and he'd speed to your side instead of thinking that your call was his cue to lead you on a game of chase.
Or at the dog park when he sniffs a mound of manure, one call would mean "hurry back right away" rather than "return at your leisure after you roll in the stinky stool."
How can you get such a rapid recall? You can start by making yourself more interesting then a pile of poop... or a neighborhood dog, or any other distraction that Fido finds more entertaining than you. Here's how.
Start with Fido on a leash in a quiet, distraction-free setting and give him a few tasty bite-sized treats so that he knows you're up to some fun. Then, when you have his attention, suddenly run backwards a few steps and say "Fido, come." Your sharp movement should stimulate him to want to play. As he closes in, hold the treat at his nose level so he keeps all four-feet on the floor and give him the treat when he catches up.
This step sounds simple but at least half of your friends are already messing up. First, be sure you say "Fido, come," only once if your goal is that he comes the first time. That is, quell that irresistible urge to blabber his name and the cue word repeatedly. Second, make sure your summon sounds like an invitation to play rather than a roll call on death row. Your goal is to teach Fido that running to you is more fun than a romp with fellow rovers not a sentence of doom.
Once you know you have this part down because every time you call, Fido immediately runs over, you can up the ante by expecting him to sit in front of you. No need to say "sit." Using your treat as a lure, just silently guide his nose up when he reaches you so the weight shifts onto his back legs putting him into sit position. Now, the new meaning of "come" is to race over and sit in front. To make this into a real game, turn and run away a short distance when you call him so the exercise is involves a short chase. When he catches up, stop so that he can sit in front of you and receive his treat.
The next step is to add mild distractions such as a toy or bone on the ground or other family members playing nearby. Walk towards the distraction and before Fido becomes too engrossed, call him and run away so you lead him in a chase. If you call soon enough and have practiced the earlier steps well, he'll immediately race after you. Cheer him on so he knows for sure he's having fun and give him his treat when he catches up.
Repeat this game with different distractions starting with easy and progressing to more difficult. Randomly practice at home and when on walks so he never knows when to expect you to break out in play.
At this point many owners mistakenly let their dogs run off-leash at the dog park. There, Fido frequently comes when called giving the owner the false idea that he has the exercise down pat. But like the running back who breaks 100 yards per game but fumbles on all the key plays, Fido's perfect except when it's really important. He always comes running but sometimes not until after he finishes rolling in the dead rat, after he aggressively approaches and barks at other dog owners, or after he runs half-way across the street.
To prepare Fido to recall reliably off leash, practice all of the earlier exercises on a long leash until "coming" when called even with tempting distractions become his habit. And, make sure that once he's with you, he's happy to stay focused on you until you give him the okay to do his own thing again. Gradually graduate to more distractions such as toys, new scents and even other dogs. This may take a little longer than you first thought, but by being consistent, careful, and always expecting him to come when you call just once, you'll develop a Fido who understands what you really want.
|
|
Share with care
|
Don't be a Turkey this Thanksgiving
By David L. Cox, DVM
Although Thanksgiving is a time for sharing, we urge you not to share your holiday meal leftovers with your pet. Table scraps, including Thanksgiving turkey, are unhealthy for pets. Turkey bones or spoiled meat could be especially dangerous to your pet's health.
Turkey bones, like other bird bones, are hollow and therefore break easily  and splinter into sharp pieces. Most dogs and cats will not chew the bone thoroughly and sharp pieces can cause blockage and perforate the intestinal tract.
A pet who has a turkey bone lodged in his digestive system may not show any symptoms for 1 to 2 days. When symptoms do occur, they may include loss of appetite, depression, vomiting, or diarrhea. Sometimes the bone will pass by itself; other times it may need to be surgically removed.
Another common ailment in pets who eat leftover turkey is salmonella food poisoning. Salmonella is an organism that lives in the turkey's intestinal tract. The cooking process usually destroys all the organisms, making the turkey safe to eat. Occasionally, the center of the turkey may be undercooked, especially if it's large or full of stuffing. If the meat sits out at room temperature for too long, the salmonella organisms can multiply and cause contamination. Pets may become poisoned if they eat any of the turkey that has been sitting out.
Symptoms of salmonella poisoning include gastrointestinal upset, vomiting, diarrhea, depression, a high temperature, loss of appetite, and listlessness.
Another problem that can occur if your pet overeats a large amount of fatty foods on Thanksgiving is pancreatitis, an inflammation of the pancreas.
Symptoms of pancreatitis are variable. Vomiting and abdominal pain are the most common symptoms of pancreatitis. Trembling, panting and a tense abdomen indicate pain in a dog. Diarrhea, often tinted with blood, fever, and weakness are also very common. Acute pancreatitis is a medical emergency. Dogs experiencing acute pancreatitis are usually in severe pain.
Pets should not be allowed to eat most table scraps, even on Thanksgiving. If your pet sneaks some turkey or other food from the table and begins showing any of the signs listed in this article, consult your veterinarian immediately.
If you take a few simple precautions, this holiday season can be enjoyable and safe for everyone.
|
|
Portly Pooch?
|
I'm sure you've seen the reports of the epidemic of obesity in our country. Unfortunately, many of our pets are overweight as well and it's up to us to make good choices for them so we can keep them healthy for a long, happy life with us. Here's one idea that will help both the bipeds and the quadrupeds in the family!
Walking Your Dog For Weight Loss
By Dr. Ernest Ward, Jr. When you combine exercise with proper diet and lifestyle, you extend
the years you'll have to hug and love and snuggle with your fourlegged
friend. Walk with your dog every day, and you'll enhance the
bond you share-and know you're doing both yourself and your pet a world of good. Of course, make sure your veterinarian examines your dog before undertaking a weight loss exercise program with your portly friend.
Get the right equipment - Forget the leash and collar. Collars can compress the trachea
 (windpipe) when pulled, causing difficulty breathing or even injury. Especially dangerous are choke collars or constricting collars of any design. A head halter or walking harness is your safest choice. Look for wide, soft, padded straps and breathable materials. I prefer leashes no longer than 12 feet-you'll be keeping your canine companion close to keep up a steady pace. Save the long leash for those casual strolls around the neighborhood when Daisy wants to catch up on her latest pee-mail.
- For winter walks, protective booties may be required if you live in or visit a cold climate.
- If it's warm (above 80 to 85 F for most dogs) or if you'll be walking longer than 30 minutes, carry water. There are many styles of portable water bottles available for dogs on the move.
Set the right pace - Few dogs will naturally walk at a pace that generates the elevated heart rates needed for sustained aerobic activity. Walking for weight loss is very different than walking for pleasure. Make your objective to move briskly on the "out" leg of your walk, and then let your dog smell the roses on the "back" leg. If you start slowly, allowing your pet to sniff everything he sees, you may have a challenge getting him to speed up when you're ready.
- Draw your dog close on his leash, generally within two to four feet on the side away from the street, and set off at a pace you feel comfortable sustaining. It should feel brisk and you should break a light sweat. The key is to keep it up! Don't look down when your pooch inevitably wants to stop and smell something or mark a hydrant. Continue looking straight ahead, tighten the leash (don't jerk), and give a command such as "No stop," "Come," or "Here." It's important for your dog to understand that you have places to go and that this is different from your usual lollygagging affair. Head halters are a great way to train dogs to heel during a brisk walk and pay attention.
- If your pet sits or refuses to walk, you may have to return home, crate him or put him in a quiet space without your attention, and try again another time. I have yet to encounter a dog that didn't take readily to brisk walking. (You may also want to consider rewarding the behavior you want by carrying tiny tidbits of tasty treats. By rewarding periodically when your dog moves ahead with you, you will encourage your dog to repeat this desired behavior. If your dog still refuses to keep walking you may want to consider other possibilities such as pain, or fear of something in the environment. --Editor)
Set time goals- For most overweight or obese dogs with normal heart and lung function, normal blood pressure, and no other preexisting medical conditions, I recommend starting with 30-minute walks five times a week. Here's a sample schedule:
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Week 1 30 minutes total 10 minutes brisk followed by 20 minutes casual pace Week 2 30 minutes total 15 minutes brisk followed by 15 minutes casual pace Week 3 30 minutes total 20 minutes brisk followed by 10 minutes casual pace Week 4 35-40 minutes total 30 minutes brisk followed by 5-10 minutes casual pace Week 5+ 35-60 minutes total Two 20- to 30-minute walks per day: 15-25 minutes brisk followed by 5 minutes casual pace ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If you can, walk 30 minutes a day seven days a week. Check weight monthly - Have your dog weighed by your veterinarian monthly until he or she reaches the right weight. Also, have the clinic staff inspect the dog's pads for any injuries or problems and check that the nails are short and healthy. After your pooch hits the desired weight, reweigh every three months.
|
|
Improve Your Handling
|
Agility Handling Seminar
World Team member and awesome instructor, Jenn Crank, can help you improve your skills. This is a special opportunity. We are thrilled to have Jenn Crank scheduled to give an agility handling seminar at Lucky Dog on Friday, January 27th through Sunday, January 29, 2012. I had the opportunity to train with Jenn and she is really incredible.  She offered wonderful insights into each dog's performance and was very knowledgeable, patient, and has clear communication skills. That's why I worked to bring her to Lucky Dog. Now you can benefit from her skill. Jenn's popularity as a seminar presenter has grown due to her ability to break things down for students and explain and clarify concepts. She has an excellent eye and is able to pinpoint simple training exercises for handlers to work on at home to improve coursework. All three days will be geared towards improving your handling skills. A handling system is a consistent form of communication between the handler and dog. For success on today's courses, it is critical that your dog know exactly what is expected of him based on the cues you give as a handler. It is also important for the handler to understand the cues he or she is delivering (sometimes unintentionally) to the dog. We have room for 10 working teams on each day and an unlimited number of auditing spots. Fundamental Success.
Friday, January 27, 2012 from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Jenn will be sure you have the core fundamentals necessary to handle your team with precision and improve your dog's understanding of your cues on course. This day is perfect for those just beginning to sequence, and also for those that need to build a better, stronger foundation. Ideal for the novice handler, or if you have an advanced dog in need of some remedial work, you will improve your skills as a communicator and handler so your dog will know exactly what is expected of him or her on course. This creates a more confident dog and effective team. Space for only 10 teams and unlimited auditors. REGISTER! (Only auditing spots are left) Mastering Handling Skills, Part 1.
Saturday, January 28, 2011 from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Have you ever missed a "Q" because your timing was off? Handling can be one of the most difficult components of agility training to perfect. Jenn will be able to improve your handling skills no matter if you are in the highest levels of Excellent B, or are competing in Open. You will learn to navigate your team smoothly and efficiently and with greater handling skill so your dog will run cleaner and faster. Space for only 10 teams (must be in Open or Excellent) and unlimited auditors. REGISTER! Mastering Handling Skills, Part 2.
Sunday, January 29, 2012 from 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. Lots of challenging sequences and more great ways to handle your Excellent or Open dog. Jenn will cover additional handling skills to improve communication, timing, speed and get more clean runs! You do not have to have done Part 1 to benefit from Part 2, but it will for sure give you a broader range of skills. Space for only 10 teams (must be in Open or Excellent) and unlimited auditors. REGISTER!Fees: $160 per day for a working spot $295 for two working days $435 for all three days $65 per day to audit For complete information, and to learn more about Jenn, please visit our website.
|
Class Schedule - Obedience, Puppy, Reactive, Nose Work, Pilates...
| |
SUMMARY OF UPCOMING CLASSES:
Obedience, Agility, Nose Work, Reactive, Puppy Classes
For detailed info, descriptions, fees, instructors, and to register, click on the More Info link or go to our Schedule Page. Interested in a class you do not see listed? Please let us know. If there is enough interest we will organize one. Know you want to take a class? Sign up early before your are closed out of a filled class! (Most classes only have 6 or 7 total spots.)
...............................................................................................
Reactive Dog Class: Help for Your Feisty Fido
Begins Wednesday, January 25, 2012 (tentative date)
There are two classes scheduled. The first begins at 6 p.m. and the 2nd one starts at 7:30 p.m.
Got a feisty Fido when it comes to certain interactions? Do you feel lost or embarrassed when your dog barks, growls, lunges or generally becomes difficult to control around other dogs or people? This class is about your dog learning relaxation and trust and overcoming fear and anxiety. We understand your problems and we are here to help! Find out more.
This class is taught by expert Dr. Lisa Radosta, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist.
You can register for a working spot with your dog, audit without your dog, or just take the seminar on the first night. Hurry, the classes are almost full (except for almost unlimited audit or seminar-only spots).
Sign Up
............................................................................................... Nose Work Games
I have not met a dog yet that didn't have fun doing Nose Work. They typically run into the building all excited every week. And it's easy and fun for owners too! Any dog of any age, with no prior obedience background (even dog-reactive dogs) can take Nose Work Games.
In Nose Work Games the dog searches for a specific scent (beginning with a favorite treat or toy and advancing to the specific scent birch, in Level II). And any dog can do it! No "formal obedience" needed! Big or little, rowdy or sedate, active or lazy - your dog will like Nose Work Games! It is a great class for dogs of all ages (12 weeks to senior), and all physical abilities.
This is a great outlet for dog-reactive dogs. As long as the dog isn't aggressive toward humans (and not a resource guarder), he's probably a good candidate for Nose Work Games.
There are many benefits to fun scent work:
- Outlet for the drive to hunt
- Provides Mental & Physical energy burn.
- Builds relationship between handler and dog
- Confidence builder for the dog
- It's Fun to watch the amazing scenting abilities of your dog!
Important: Dogs are crated between turns so it's important that your dog is used to a crate and that you can bring one to class every week. This class is not for dogs aggressive toward people. These are 6-week classes.
Nose Work Games (Level I)
Begins Monday, January 30th at 7:30 p.m.
Nose Work: Intro to Odor (Level II)
Begins Tuesday, January 10th at 7:30 p.m.
Nose Work: Advanced Odor (Level III)
Begins Monday, December 5th at 7:30 p.m.
Instructor: Cheryl Vanvoorhies
Want to read more about Nose Work? Check out the article from
Bark Magazine.
More info
Register
................................................................................
Focus Foundation
Obedience, Attention, Focus, and Impulse Control
-- everything you've always wanted for your dog!
Focus Foundation is also the prerequisite for Intro to Agility and it's a great class before Rally.
This popular 6-week class fills quickly so sign up today!
Taught by Mindy Cox, B.S., CPDT-KA
Next Class: Monday, January 9th at 6 p.m.
...............................................................................................
Ideal Puppy Training & Socialization
This is an important socialization and training class for puppies
8 to 20 weeks of age. Don't miss out on these important behavioral milestones that will help your pup grow into a more confident, well-adjusted dog. Your dog will only be a puppy once!
Ideal Puppy class is a full and wonderful 8 weeks of learning and play.
 UPCOMING CLASSES:
Thursday, December 8th at 6 p.m.
Thursday, January 5th at 7:15 p.m.
Instructor: Stacey Curcio
............................................................................................... Advanced/Master Agility  Improve your agility and handling skills and have fun! UPCOMING CLASSES: Monday, November 21st at 6 p.m. Monday, November 28th at 7:30 p.m. Instructor: Cynthia Kean Want to drop in to the class on a week-to-week basis? You can if there's room. Just call or email to find out. More Info Sign Up ...............................................................................................
Private Instruction and Consultations
We are available to do private agility and obedience training as well as behavior consultations on a variety of issues.
Please contact us for more information.
...............................................................................................
More classes are being scheduled.If you don't see the one you want, please email.
THIS INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. PLEASE CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR THE MOST CURRENT INFORMATION ABOUT CLASS DATES AND TIMES.
|
|
Jumping For Joy
| |
Agility Fun Runs
This is a great opportunity to practice your agility in a different atmosphere and have some FUN with your dog.
There will be two courses to challenge all levels. Do all or part of the course and practice important handling skills, whether you are at the novice level or higher. Toys and treats are allowed. NO harsh methods will be accepted. Bring your chairs, crates and water bowl for your dog (we have a hose and water fountain). Please only flat buckle collars.
DATES & TIMES --Friday, December 2nd. First run at 6:30 p.m. (Gates open at 5:30 p.m.) Running big to little dogs.
--Friday, January 20, 2012. First run at 6:30 p.m. (Gates open at 5:30 p.m.) Running little to big.
--Friday, February 10th. First run at 6:30 p.m. (Gates open at 5:30 p.m.) Running big to little dogs.
--Friday, March 16th. First run at 6:30 p.m. (Gates open at 5:30 p.m.) Running little to big.
--Friday, April 13th. First run at 6:30 p.m. (Gates open at 5:30 p.m.) Running big to little dogs.
(These dates subject to change.)
Email to sign up now!
LOCATION: Lucky Dog Sports Club Get Directions Here (and don't believe your car's navigation system!).
FEE: $10 per dog (2nd dog $8). Please try to bring exact change or a check made payable to Lucky Dog Sports Club. Credit cards are also welcome. There is a 10% discount for members of Lucky Dog. CRATING: Iindoors in climate-controlled comfort (or outdoors if you prefer).
EXPERIENCE: All levels (dogs must be familiar with all obstacles) are welcome to practice this nested course (novice/open and excellent). Or make up your own! After everyone runs the first course we will reverse it and run again after walking the new course. The lighting and footing are great. Toys and treats are welcome and encouraged to reward your dog. REGISTRATION: To sign up, click here and email us your name, and your pet's name, breed, jump height, and level (novice/open or excellent). You must sign up in advance.
CANCELLATION: Please let us know if you need to cancel. Space is limited. Thanks for your understanding and consideration.
|
|
Just for Fun!
|
Hope you find these chuckle-worthy. Enjoy!
|
|
Around Town
| Join the Karma Krew for Fun (and a good cause!)
Grab your pails and shovels and come down to theJupiter Beach for the 5th Annual Karma Kastles: community-wide sand sculpting competition, festival and fundraiser on December 3rd from 9 AM-2 PM. Money raised from the event goes to expand Karma Krew's mind-body wellness programs for needy populations including shelters for domestic violence, homeless and abused children. This beginner-friendly competition is designed to bring together businesses, families, corporations and groups of friends for a day at the beach to test their sand skills and support a great cause. There will be some dog-friendly events as well, so check it out! Click for more info (or to get involved) |
|
Contact Information:
Mindy Cox, Training Director
Phone: 561-427-6700
Fax: 561-748-3699
Any suggestions or comments? Please email. I value your feedback. |
|
You Asked, We Answered
| |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do you have an at-a-glance way to see classes and events? A: You betcha! Our class calendar will give you the schedule at a glance. If you are a Lucky Dog member organizing your practice times, you can now tell if a class is inside or outside. It is color coded by type of class (such as agility, obedience, puppy). The first class will have START to indicate the beginning. Q: How do I register for a class or event?
A: Find the class you want on the Schedule page. For events, go to the Events page.
Click the Register button or link and fill out the secure online registration form. Or you can call 561-427-6700 and I will sign you up over the phone.
Payment can be cash, check, or credit card.
The fastest way to sign up, especially if you want to secure your spot in a popular class is to use the secure online registration form. You can also mail your form (very slow!), drop it off in our secure drop box to the left of our front door, fax it to 561-748-3699, or you can sign up by phone. Go to our Contact page to find all this info (or find the info in this newsletter, in the section above.
Q: What training philosophy do you use?
A: We only use positive, reward-based, dog-friendly training methods at Lucky Dog. No jerking, pulling, ear pinching or other aversive methods are used. We introduce the training clicker into many of the classes so your dog has a quicker and clearer understanding of what you are teaching. Q: Do I need a club membership to take a class?
A: No. Becoming a club member and taking a class are two separate things. But as a member you have access to Lucky Dog and can practice whenever you want (when there is no class scheduled).The cost of membership does not include any class fees. Q: What are Lucky Dog's hours?
A: At this time there are no regular hours when you can drop by, but if you'd like a tour just give us a call and we are happy to accommodate you. Someone is always there when a class or event is scheduled.Q: Do you only do group classes or can I schedule a private lesson?
A: We are happy to schedule a private lesson at Lucky Dog. We offer obedience and agility private lessons.
Q: Is there certification for dog trainers? A: Thanks for asking. Yes, trainers can be certified through the CCPDT (Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers) which is an organization respected throughout the world for maintaining high standards for certification, knowledge base, and continuing education requirements for dog trainers. Mindy Cox, Training Director at Lucky Dog is certified (CPDT-KA). Click here for more information.
|
|
My goal is to make this and every newsletter as useful and interesting to you as possible. Which sections do you like the best? Articles? Class info? News of local events? Human interest information? What else would you like to see covered? And if you like it, please pass it along to a friend.
Sincerely,
Mindy Cox, B.S., CPDT-KATraining Director
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
