Should I or Shouldn't I? 

The Doggy Daycare Dilemma 

Should you take your dog to doggy daycare or the dog park? Are they safe and beneficial for your dog? Good question! From a recent APDT (Association of Pet Dog Trainers) listserve, here are some food-for-thought observations and opinions from those trainers and daycare operators in the trenches.  

• Daycare should be a well-supervised, controlled group, though dogs are never 100% predictable. But to provide a healthy outlet for normal dog interaction, a well-run daycare is certainly an option for many owners and dogs.  

• I am not a fan of dog parks, but I like daycare. The key difference
  

  for me is the supervision. I have been to dog parks with other people,  

  and inevitably there is someone who comes in with a dog who is kind of  pushy and the owner is yacking away on the cellphone, ignoring the  dog. I've interrupted more than a couple of fights that were brewing  because the owner of one of the dogs is just not present and there was no one there to supervise.  

• I know that play and socialization are fantastic enrichment and training opportunities. I don't warn clients against daycare, dog parks, supervised play groups, or back yard play groups but I do educate them.

• [Regarding dog daycare], I instruct clients to ask questions about how much crate time dogs get, the dog/human ratio, training of employees, and what kind of structure there is to the play. If dog are simply allowed to play uniterrupted for the day, I tell clients to look elsewhere. A client who expects dog daycare workers to be actively interrupting play and doing some basic training during play will not accept attendants who are just leaning against a wall with a mop bucket. If the client expects her dog to have adequate, peaceful down time and a private place to eat lunch, she will walk away from the daycare that has no crates or quiet tether areas with comfy beds.

• I advise clients to go to a dog daycare that doesn't rely on squirt bottles for control. 

•  It's great for some dogs and not good for others. We always try to educate clients on what to look for in a daycare and do the same with dog parks. We're big on staff training, 100% supervision (no one is cleaning while they monitor dogs), and a small human to dog ratio (1 supervisor for 5 dogs). We also evaluate dogs and and everyday determine which dogs will be the most appropriate playmates. That can change daily.

• Some of what we have seen is quite frankly scary. One place we visited had the dogs in one pen all day long with one person supervising and also responsible for answering calls to the facility on a portable phone. It was unclear who watched the dogs when she had to use the restroom or take a meal break. It was hard to get an accurate count on the dogs because they were always moving, but there were at least 40. They were in a space that I would have limited to 10 to 12 dogs maximum. I also know of facilities that routinely use squirt bottles, hoses, and even bark collars on dogs in daycare as part of their "management" strategy; tools which have no place in a daycare situation.

• Unfortunately I think many of the general public have a misunderstanding of doggie daycare. They think their dog should be running and playing all day long, not recognizing that in reality the dog is a pretty lazy creature. They have been told it's a way to make up for inadequate socialization or to cure "snarkiness.

• Many people decide to get into the daycare business because they like dogs but really don't have an understanding of behavior and just think that all dogs should get along, kind of like a Disney movie. As we emphasize anytime we hire new staff - it's not playing with dogs, it's a lot of hard but rewarding work. I think daycare can be great, when done properly, for a well-adjusted dog that will enjoy and benefit from the experience. It can also be a disaster.

• I am becoming a bit disheartened by what I call "Fast Food Dog Ownership". This refers to clients who just want their dog tired so they will be easy to own, not trained and I routinely tell clients we are not the right place for them because we want daycare to be an ADDITION to other good training and outlets for Fido not THE training and outlet for their dog.   

• I totally agree with Turid [Rugaas] on this and I recommend that your dog not come to daycare more than 2 days a week. If we have clients who must, for whatever reason, use our daycare more than that, we only place the dog in daycare 2 MAYBE 3 times a week and have them go for walks and play with a staff member other times. I find more than 2 ( or rarely 3) sometimes will cause sustained arousal developments and/or snarkiness which I believe results from fatigue, mental or physical. This issue is really what I notice, dogs who cannot settle unless exhausted or ones who become reactive due to bad daycare experiences. 

• I believe that time with an owner walking, engaging, playing, training is so vital to that relationship, even if it is just tossing a ball down the hall or doing puzzle games while you cook dinner. Something is better than nothing. I always find it funny when a client who just drops off the dog and takes it home to sleep until the next daycare day is shocked when said dog suddenly refuses to come or runs to a [daycare] staff member when he is scared instead of the owner. Relationships are built on time and trust, not fatigue. 

• I never use dog parks. Here, people use them to "work out" their dogs issues and they scare the daylights outta me. I too have seen too many unattended dogs get in fights and damaged physically or mentally. People are just uneducated and I prefer control in place.

• I have had many dogs who were changed by proper socialization and others who were put into their shell so to speak with improper care.     

• I adamantly agree that the supervision for both [daycare and dog parks] must be done by people who can read dog language well and intervene appropriately. I am always amazed at how my own dogs (and those in my care) positively influence the behaviour of other dogs. I have seen absolutely stressed dogs turn into model citizens by learning how to be dogs again. I have also seen the products of poorly run daycares. The dogs that duck and cover any time a dog goes near them. It breaks my heart to see these guys and I am always amazed at how forgiving and resilient they are once they realize that someone is looking out for then. By that time, though, they are often distrustful of other dogs (or certain breeds) and may be starting on a full fledged dog aggression.

• I believe that dog daycares (well run and supervised) are so needed, because in many cases it's the only way for a dog to get "good" playtime and interaction with other dogs because most pet owners don't have a clue what they are watching. It is very satisfying for me to evaluate a dog that not only used to growl whenever they saw a dog and also had no idea how to play properly that now comes running in the door and can't wait to get the day started. We must be realistic in this business and see that it is not the best solution for all dogs and help the owner determine what the best solution is.    

• I no longer use dog parks after my pointer wound up with two punctures and a four-inch laceration and my foster springer spaniel ended up with a puncture to the neck from an 8-month-old
  dog. Too many people are either ignorant or in complete denial that their dogs' behavior is not suitable or safe for a public dog park!

• In the past we'd rest the dogs for 2 hours mid-day. About six or seven years ago, my manager wanted to try increasing the amount of rest the dogs get by separating them into 2 sections each having 2 hours on, 2 hours off throughout the day. Juggling dogs in and out is a lot more work for our staff, but the results have been significant. Far fewer "tiffs", and far more relaxed groups. We have many dogs that come to our daycare every day, and we rarely see evidence of over-stimulation or over-exercise.   

• While I believe in healthy outlets for dog play, I personally do NOT believe most dog parks provide that outlet. My experiences in dog parks has been of a free-for-all, distracted, clueless owners on their phones, drinking coffee, who want the dogs to entertain themselves for a while. I see many terrified, miserable dogs, dogs that bully the aforementioned other dogs, dogs over which owners have no control, even dogs that are potentially dangerous to other dogs. No thanks to putting my dogs in that situation.
    On the other hand, I am very much in favor of a good daycare. A good daycare program actually provides what people hope for & rarely get in a dog park, a safe place for dogs to socialize appropriately under supervision.

• Daycare and dog parks can be very beneficial for the right dogs and if the groups are well managed. Not every dog likes the social setting of off-leash play and it's up to the daycare staff to be the dog's advocate in that respect. If a dog isn't happy in the environment, he should be offered another alternative or at least told not to come to daycare. But I find many daycares don't take that stand. That is one of the biggest things I stress when training staff on how to manage an off-leash environment. Supervising off-leash play is much more than watching dogs romp and play. It should not be a free for all, nor should it be a place where "dogs work everything out." But it takes some training to be able to "read the dogs" fast enough to prevent problems when dogs are off leash. The bottom line is that a dog should leave a dog park or daycare behaviorally better (or at least not worse!) than when he showed up. If that isn't happening then either the dog isn't suitable for the environment or the environment isn't being managed properly (or maybe both).

What has your experience been with daycare facilities or dog parks? Please share your feedback with us so we can share it with others. Email your viewpoint today.

The main reasons that people take their dogs to daycare is for exercise and mental stimulation. There are also great ways to alleviate boredom and provide mental stimulation to your dog at home. Read our Boredom Busters article.  In addition, we offer a great class that provides wonderful mental stimulation, and is so much fun for both the dog and owner- our Nose Work Games class. Don't miss the next one! Check it out. 

Understanding Your Dog 

We expect our dogs to learn our language, but how much effort do we make to learn theirs? Almost all dogs use body language to warn us that they are not comfortable, that they want out of the situation, and that if you don't stop, they will react. While dogs don't have very effective verbal language, they can speak volumes with their body language. It's our job to learn how to interpret it. There is also a ladder of escalation to body language. (For more info, see our November 2010 newsletter.) Something causes them to become anxious or fearful and the dog will give one or two warning signals. If nothing changes, you will see a clustering of signals. You should never punish animals for showing these signals- you need them to warn you before they escalate into a bite (which the dog often feels is necessary at that point because all other signs were ignored or missed).  

Dogs don't just get over their fear any more than we do. It doesn't help to baby them or get angry at them for being fearful. Would that help you if you were suddenly faced with a snake, spider, or anything else that really frightened you (a cockroach in my world)? Don't try to push your dog through his fear as if he will suddenly get over it if he was forced to face it. It will probably make it worse or have other unintended repercussions.   

The most important thing to remember when dealing with fear is that the dog must never be forced, held or made to "face his fear." Panic can be permanent. Terror can be irreparable. "Coping" equals "flooding." A tight leash or being trapped when afraid creates sensitivity. Sensitizing increases the negative reaction to the original stimulus and can create global fear. The dog must not be overwhelmed.   

If your dog is afraid of something, here are a few suggestions. Allow your dog to observe the thing he is afraid of at a distance that the dog can handle. He should notice it, but should show no signs of discomfort. If he is interested, allow him to investigate and move closer as he feels safe enough, while allowing him to retreat and re-approach at his own pace and without pressure. The worst thing that can happen is for a dog is to run out of leash and feel trapped and unable to escape. Make it a priority to keep the leash constantly slack. Move with him. Be cheerful and confident and quietly supportive. Don't coddle or sound worried. Don't scold or force!   

Check out these pictures of body language in a fearful dog. You owe it to your dog to learn them.  

Thanks to Dr. Sophia Yin for this great poster.  

Go to diamondsintheruff.com for more articles on fear. 

Reward the behavior you want and it will be repeated 

Be the Trainer Your Dog Needs  

Positive training vs punishment 

Would you want to be punished for making a simple mistake? That's what we often do to our dogs. Regularly used, punishment affects the relationship you have with your dog. Consistent punishment erodes your dog's trust and feeling of safety. Put yourself in your dog's paws. 

What is positive training? Positive training simply means that you reward desirable behavior, ignore or redirect undesirable behavior, and avoid the "pop and jerk" pattern of dog training.

1. Positive training is based on a reward structure that encourages the dog to want to work more with you. In other words, it's motivational, encouraging the dog to explore behaviors and situations that will
engender the reward.

2. Positive training is only reward based: there is no punishment or "correction." When the dog engages in a behavior that the client desires, the dog is taught to engage in that behavior more often by being instantly
and continually rewarded for the behavior.

3. Positive training can involve having the dog pay attention to something that is coupled to the reward and can help anxious dogs cope. For example, in targeting, the dog is taught to go to a spot, touch a spot, touch a person, et cetera, as a default behavior whenever the dog is given the appropriate signal. The dog is then rewarded. For example, when meeting other dogs, one client might say, "Touch," and her dog automatically sits next to her and puts his nose to her knee, for which she gives him a treat. In this case, because the dog took himself out of the situation, was rewarded, and sits, he is calmer and now can enter the social interaction with the other dogs in a calmer, considered, deliberate manner. Such "tricks" are godsends for anxious dogs who need some quiet time to process information.

There are many pitfalls of punishment:
1. In most animals, punishment increases anxiety and fear. This increase can be noted directly, through behaviors, and has been measured in a number of species by monitoring changes in neurochemistry. The neurochemical changes associated with anxiety and fear interfere with learning appropriate behaviors but facilitate learning that the individual associated with the punishment is a threat.

2. Punishment ruins relationships. Punishment teaches animals to be wary of the punisher because-in truth-the punisher is a threat.

3. Punishment inhibits desirable learning. By activating the amygdala, the region of the brain that is the first step in creating acquired fears, punishment interferes with a neuroanatomical response that would be associated with learning the desired behaviors.

4. Punishment does not tell the pet what to do. Punishment only tells the pet what NOT to do. Unfortunately, there is an almost infinite set of choices of things that we and are our pets should not do, but if we had to go through all of them before we learned what was desired, learning would be hopeless. No one can learn associations for learning (eg, eliminate only outside) by punishment because the essential information is missing, and punishment, itself, teaches something we did not intend.

5. Punishment makes animals more reactive, so it increases aggression and arousal. Any animal that was already aggressive will become worse when punished, because now there is little certainty that the person punishing them is a threat. Increase in arousal, particularly if associated with fear or aggression, also makes it difficult to impossible to learn-or even to
offer-appropriate behaviors.  

6. Punishment increases the risk of physical and psychological injury. Dogs manhandled with choke chains and prong collars often have laryngeal, esophageal, thyroidal, and tracheal damage. Recurrent laryngeal
nerve damage or paralysis can be sequelae and may be detected early by a change in bark. Additionally, physical punishment, like beating, can
break bones and damage internal organs.

Clients often think that the dog benefited from punishment because the undesirable behavior stopped. Close examination of the actual changes in behaviors usually indicates that lots of normal behaviors stopped also, and that the dog or cat is spending more time engaged in escape, hiding, and vigilance and scanning behaviors (behaviors all associated with anxiety) than in normal affiliative canine and feline behaviors.  

This excerpt is from an article in Journal of Veterinary Behavior (2006), "Good trainers: How to identify one and why this is important to your practice of veterinary medicine". To read the entire article, please click here.   

How much do you know? 

Dangerous Behavior Myths

#1. I am the cause of all of my dog's behavior problems. True or False?

#2. Puppies should not go to puppy classes until they have had all of their shots. True or False?

#3. My dog is aggressive (or fearful) because he was abused as a puppy. True or False?

#4. Certain medications can completely solve a behavior problem. True or False?

#5. Dogs that are aggressive are acting dominant. True or False?

#6. My dog is acting guilty. He knows what he did was wrong. True or False?

#7. If I use treats to train a dog I will always need them to get my dog to obey me. True or False?

#8. Dogs chase their tails or spin in circles because they are bored. True or False?

#9. All trainers can handle behavior problems. True or False?

#10. Some punishment is required to teach dogs proper behavior. True or False?

Want to know the answers? Click here 

Make it stop!

 Most active behavior modification involves either of the following or a combination of the two:

• Desensitization-gradual exposure to the stimulus or sound at a level below where the patient reacts; the sound volume is slowly increased over days or weeks as the dog continues to not react.
• Counter-conditioning-rewarding the dog for not reacting by offering a stimulus such as a food treat that competitively interferes with dog's ability to react.

However, if the reaction to noise is severe or has been ongoing for a long time, exposure to recordings of noises and storms alone is unlikely to help and may further harm the dog. Under no circumstances should anyone continue to expose a dog to these recordings if the dog remains at the same level of distress or becomes more distressed. In some cases, as dogs begin to improve with drug treatment, exposure to sound recordings can help, but techniques touted as quick fixes generally don't work.    

That said, devices that alter the dog's perception of the environment may help. Eye shades that permit either no light (useful for intense lightning storms and fireworks) or diffuse light can help some dogs relax. If this is true, tinted Doggles (doggles.com) or those with mesh may help. Ear protection for dogs is also available in the form of Mutt Muffs (muttmuffs.com). Some dogs gain relief from the use of any basic eye mask -like those used by people on planes-that prevents them from seeing flashes of light. Because these fit loosely, most dogs don't resist them. Dogs should become used to these when not distressed. Any set of reactions that can be diminished will help the dog to improve overall.    

Talk to your veterinarian or behaviorist about what drugs may be beneficial to dogs with storm phobias.  

This was excerpted from an article by Dr. Karen Overall, MA, VMD, PhD, Dipl. ACVB, CAAB, "Noise reactivities and phobias in dogs: Behavior modification strategies" from DVM360.  

FREE E-BOOK 

Fitness Class for Your Dog 

Hosted Event

Want to find out what Nose Work is all about? Want to try it out with your dog? Tailwaggers Learning Center is hosting a 2-hour seminar at Lucky Dog on Sunday, August 21st from 1-3 p.m.

I believe the working spots are gone, but learning by watching is fun too!

 Click for more information and to register.   

In the video below, a you will see a mock classroom ORT (Odor Recognition Test). This occurs with the placement and search of identical boxes. Typically it is done with a specific odor (birch) but in the Level I class we use treats, which is placed in one of the boxes without the dog or handler's knowledge of which box. 

Nose Work Games.m4v

SUMMARY OF UPCOMING CLASSES:

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There are two classes scheduled. The first begins at 6 p.m. and the 2nd one starts at 7:30 p.m.

Got a feisty Fido when it comes to certain interactions? Do you feel lost or embarrassed when your dog barks, growls, lunges or generally becomes difficult to control around other dogs or people? This class is about your dog learning relaxation and trust and overcoming fear and anxiety. We understand your problems and we are here to help! Find out more.   

Focus Foundation  

Obedience, Attention, Focus, and Impulse Control

-- everything you've always wanted for your dog!  

Focus Foundation is also the prerequisite for Intro to Agility and it's a great class before Rally.

This popular 6-week class fills quickly so sign up today!

Taught by Mindy Cox, B.S., CPDT-KA

 Next Class: Monday, September 19th at 6 p.m.   

Ideal Puppy I & Ideal Puppy II

This is an important socialization and training class for puppies 9 to 20 weeks of age. Don't miss out on these important behavioral milestones that will help your pup grow into a more confident, well-adjusted dog. Your dog will only be a puppy once!

  

Ideal Puppy I and II are each 4 weeks long for a full and wonderful

8 weeks of learning and play. Sign up for 8 weeks and save.

UPCOMING CLASS:  

Ideal Puppy I begins:

  

Thursday, August 25, 2011 at 7:15 p.m. 

Next up after the August class: Sept. 22nd at 6 p.m.

  

Instructor: Stacey Curcio

More Info about Puppy Agility Fun!

More Info about Puppy Agility 2 

Sign Up  for either 

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Pilates for Pooches 

This is a 4-week, innovative fitness class for all healthy dogs.  

Begins Monday, November 7th at 6 p.m. 

See description in the section above in this issue or go to the website.  

More Info  

Sign Up 

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Jumping Into Future Fun

Agility Fun Runs  

This is a great opportunity to practice your agility in a different atmosphere and have some FUN with your dog. There will be two courses to challenge all levels. Do all or part of the course and practice important handling skills, whether you are at the novice level or higher. Toys and treats are allowed. NO harsh methods will be accepted. Bring your chairs, crates and water bowl for your dog (we have a hose and water fountain). Please only flat buckle collars.  

Just for Fun! 

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