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Lucky Dog Sports Club in Jupiter
Positive, rewards-based
dog training
March 2010 |
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Greetings!
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(Click the link at the top to read this more easily in your web browser.)
Dog Manners Anyone?
Is your dog driving you crazy? Do you think he or she needs a little fine-tuning to turn into that perfect dog? We have wonderful obedience classes and you can feel secure knowing that we only use positive, dog-friendly, non-aversive methods.
All of the classes in our family dog program are geared towards teaching you how to help your dog become a fun, well behaved and well-adjusted family pet. Basic manners and obedience are emphasized using dog friendly methods. No choke chains or pinch collars are used. You will learn how to "think dog". We will help you avoid the most common problems and prevent the most common bad habits. Each session consists of one class once weekly for six weeks.
Our goal in all of our classes is to help create a lifelong friend in your dog by making your dog more obedient, confident, well-mannered and more enjoyable to be around. Your dog will become a more well-behaved and well-adjusted family pet. Our focus is on training you to train your dog with respect, consistency and trust. Teaching your dog manners strengthens the bond between you both and through better communication you'll have a lifetime of companionship. We will teach you how to build rapport with your dog using positive, reward based training methods. These methods foster trust and learning. No punishment, no jerking.
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Reactive Dog Class
Do you feel lost when your dog barks, growls or lunges at other dogs or people? This very special class is for all dogs that overreact in new situations or with new people or other dogs. They often become over excited and aggressive. This aggression is usually fear based and this behavior is appropriately called reactivity.
We are now midway through our current class but many people have been asking about our next class.
The next two classes begin Wednesday, June 2nd. Each one runs for 6 weeks. They are taught by veterinarian Dr. Lisa Radosta, who is board certified in animal behavior.
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Lucky Dog Sports club is now on Facebook. Please check us out and become a fan! |
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Contact Information:
Mindy Cox, Training Director
Phone: 561-427-6700
Fax: 561-748-3699
Any suggestions or comments? Please email. I value your feedback.
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| Article #1 |
| I found this interesting and useful article recently in a veterinary journal. Anyone with a dog that has an anxiety issue can relate to this problem. If you have a dog with separation anxiety, here's some great information for you. It is written by a veterinary behaviorist.
Curse of the Working Class: Canine Separation Anxiety
By Benjamin L Hart, DVM, PhD, DACVB
Typical History
There usually is an occurrence of several types of misbehavior, including chewing woodwork and furniture, excessive vocalization, inappropriate urination and defecation, indicating that the dog is emotionally upset when left alone by the owners. These signs occur also as manifestations of other problems. The main diagnostic feature is that these signs occur only when the owner is gone. Usually these signs occur within the first few minutes of the owner's departure. Sometimes owners give excessive attention to the dog prior to departures and upon returning, which may enhance the contrast between the owner being at home and away. Most signs of separation distress occur within 30 minutes of separation.
Diagnosis
The primary diagnostic challenge is to confirm that the problem behaviors occur when the dog is left alone. Differentiate separation anxiety from other types of anxiety (noise phobia), boredom, inappropriate elimination, urine marking, and cognitive dysfunction. An easy way to do this is videotape the animal when the owner is gone.
Treatment Guidelines
Counsel the owners
The dog is not doing these behaviors "out of spite" or because "he's mad that we left him." This is an anxiety and the animal is in distress.
Eliminate anxiety - During the treatment program it is important to eliminate the anxiety that the dog feels when it is left alone. Except during planned departures have one of the owners take him to work with them, find a doggy day care in your area or board the dog at your clinic. The reasoning behind this is so the dog does not continue to panic when at home, continually relearning these reactions and behaviors there.
Initiate a distancing program Choose a place, such as a special mat, which will be used for this part of the program. Put the dog on the mat and have him stay. Start out with a short period of time. This could be as short as 2-3 seconds if necessary. Then release him/her. Gradually increase the length of time the dog stays on the mat, up until about 15 minutes or so. Then the owners should start to increase the distance they move from their dog during the stay.
Eventually the owners will be able to move into another room while the dog is staying on the mat. Start with just a second or two, then increase the time away, and gradually the owners should close the door behind them. Once that is accomplished, they can work toward stepping out of the house while the dog stays. They should start getting closer to the door, touching the door, jingling the handle, opening the door, etc.
The owners should move the mat around to different areas of the house and even outside when they want to work with the dog there. When the dog is on the mat for a longer period of time, they should give the dog a treat, preferably long lasting.
Initiate a departure program
The owners should next go outside for periods so short that the anxiety is not evoked. When the dog starts to become more comfortable it can be left for gradually longer periods of time. A food reward is again introduced upon departures. Progress on departures will be slow at first, increasing by only very gradual steps: 1,2,1,2,3,2,1,4,2,5--minutes. Later the steps will be much greater after the dog can be left alone for 30 minutes (e.g., 30,45,15,60,45,30,60,75-minutes). On their days off work owners should continue the departure program.
Downplay departures
The owners should downplay their departures. Actually ignore the dog completely for 15 minutes before they leave and after they return home.
Medication An anti-anxiety drug such as fluoxetine or clomipramine may be useful to facilitate desensitization, but does not by itself solve the problem.
These procedings were from DVM360. |
Class Schedule
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SUMMARY OF UPCOMING CLASSES: Obedience, Agility, and Puppy Classes
For detailed info, descriptions, fees, instructors, and to register, click on class name or go to our Schedule Page. Interested in a class you do not see listed? Please let us know. If there is enough interest we will organize one.
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Obedience II/Performance Dog
Hey! Focus Foundation Grads- this is a great class for you to continue learning and fine tuning your dog's obedience skills!
Obedience II/Performance Dog is for those wanting to build even greater communication and obedience skills or want to compete with their dog. Blase will work with students of different levels to improve their handling and increase proficiency using positive reinforcement. For advanced family dogs, this class will also help to improve your communication and sharpen your obedience skills. Hurry! Sign up now!
Upcoming 6-week class:
Monday, March 8th at 7:30 p.m. No class on March 29th. Ends April 19th.
Sign UpMore Information
...............................................................................................Focus Foundation
Obedience, Attention, Focus, and Impulse Control-- everything you've
always wanted for your dog!  Focus Foundation is also the prerequisite for Intro to Agility.
This popular class fills quickly so sign up today!
Upcoming Classes (Each is 6 weeks long):
--Tuesday, March 16th at 6:15 p.m. No class March 30th. Ends on April 27th. (one spot left)
-- Wednesday, April 7th at 7:30 p.m. No class May 5th and 12th. Ends on May 26th. Sign UpMore Info
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Ideal Puppy I & Ideal Puppy II
This is an important socialization and training class for puppies 9 to 20 weeks of age. Don't miss out on these important behavioral milestones that will help your pup grow into a more confident, well-adjusted dog. Your dog will only be a puppy once!
Ideal Puppy I and II are each 4 weeks long for a full and wonderful
8 weeks of learning and play. 
UPCOMING CLASSES:
Session E from 7:15 to 8:15 pm (two spots left)
Ideal Puppy I begins Thursday, March 4, 2019. Ends March 25th.
Ideal Puppy II begins April 1, 2010. Ends April 22nd.
Session A from 6 to 7:00 pm
Ideal Puppy I begins Thursday, April 1st. Ends April 22nd.
Ideal Puppy II begins April 29th. Ends May 20th.
Sign Up
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 Puppy Agility Fun
You will have lots of fun with your puppy in this class! For puppies who have graduated from Puppy Agility Fun (or similar). Participants will continue to work on obedience skills for agility. Agility obstacles such as the A-frame, dogwalk, and teeter at low heights will be taught to give the pups confidence and with safety in mind. Handler skills will also be emphasized so that communication and understanding between the handler and dog are improved.
UPCOMING:
Wednesday, March 10th 6:15 to 7:15 p.m. Ends April 14th.
Sign Up Now
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Introduction to Agility
Dogs will be introduced to many of the obstacles in agility such as jumps, tunnel, chute, and
open weaves, in a safe and controlled manner. The skills needed to successfully negotiate the
obstacles and the handling skills will be worked on weekly.
Attention, focus and motivation will be practiced as the
dog/handler team builds confidence in an atmosphere that
centers on learning skills while having fun. By the end of this
class the dogs will have a good working knowledge of many of
the obstacles (the A-frame, teeter, and the dogwalk will not be completed but we will begin
shaping correct contact skills).
UPCOMING:
Thursday, March 18th from 7:45 to 8:45 p.m. Ends April 22th.
Sign up Now
More Info ...............................................................................................
Beginning Agility
In this class handling skills and basic control will be improved. Students learn to give timely 
commands, to provide consistent and smooth body cues, and to
develop teamwork with their dogs. Handlers also develop the
ability to switch smoothly from handling their dogs off one side to
handling off the other in the middle of a sequence. The dog and
handler teams will continue to improve their skills and will become
more proficient at simple combinations of obstacles.
Sequencing is performed off lead, therefore, your dog also must be able to sit, stay, down,
and come on command, off lead. (Prerequisite- Intro to Agility, Puppy Agility 3, or similar)
Upcoming class:
Tuesday, March 23rd from 7:15 p.m. to 8:15 p.m.
Sign Up Now
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This class is designed to advance you and your dog's agility skills and to prepare you and your
dog for competition, if desired. The class will build on jumping skills, obstacle discrimination,
 and distance handling skills. Dog/handler teamwork is
emphasized, not on just getting through a sequence but in the
way in which it is accomplished. The class will teach the handler
and the dog how to gain confidence, accuracy, and spped.
Performance on all equipment will be fine-tuned.
UPCOMING
March 18th from 6:30 to 7:30 p.m. Ends April 29th.
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For advanced agility dogs that are competing or skilled enough to do so and have graduated
 from Intermediate Agility or similar class. Must be
proficient with all of the equipment.
UPCOMING CLASSES (PENDING DATE CONFIRMATION):
--Monday, March 8th at 6 p.m. Ends April 12th.
--Monday, March 8th at 7:30 p.m. Ends April 12th.
--Wednesday, March 10th at 7:30 p.m. Ends April 14th.
Drop ins are accepted into the current class. Please call
or email the instructor if you are interested in dropping in to
participate in class.
Sign Up
More Info
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THIS INFORMATION IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. PLEASE CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR THE MOST CURRENT INFORMATION ABOUT CLASS DATES AND TIMES. |
| Play Agility With Us! |
Get in on the action and have some fun!
Sign up now. Send your name, your dog's name,
jump height and breed.
2010 DATES
Sunday, March 7th (running Big to Little)
Sunday, April 4th
(These dates subject to change.)
This is a great opportunity to practice your agility in a different atmosphere and have some FUN with your dog. There will be two courses to challenge all levels. Do all or part of the course and practice importtant handling skills whether you are at the novice level or higher.
TIME: Gates open at 4:00 p.m. and first dog will be ready to run by 4:45 p.m.
CRATING: is indoors in climate-controlled comfort (or outdoors if you prefer).
EXPERIENCE: All levels (novice level class students and up) are welcome to practice this nested course (novice/open and excellent). After everyone runs the first course we will reverse it and run again after walking the new course. The lighting and footing are great. Toys and treats are welcome and encouraged to reward your dog. Please only flat buckle collars.
REGISTRATION: To sign up, email us your name, and your pet's name, breed, jump height, and level (novice or excellent). You must sign up in advance.
More infoAre you on the monthly Fun Run email list? If you are not receiving the additional reminders of upcoming Fun Runs, please let me know and I will add you to the list.
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| Article #2 |
| Learn to Talk "Dog" and Your Dog Will Come Running!
The problem with speaking English instead of using made-up words is that we assume our pets know what we mean. We say, "Sit" and expect Fido to drop his derrier, but the command Fido's learned is "sit, sit, sit, SIT!"
Then once he's done the deed, we praise with "Goodsit," when just "Good" would do, thinking that Fido understands that "good" modifies the word "sit." Do we think "Gooddown," or "Goodstay" would cause him to walk away confused, or that "Goodgirl" would cause a boy bowser to develop a gender identity problem?
 These minor language misconceptions probably seem moot; however, when the message we want to convey is for Fido to come right away, proper communication may save the day. If Fido could race over every time we called, imagine the possibilties.
When Fido darts out an open door, you could call him once and he'd speed to your side instead of thinking that your call was his cue to lead you on a game of chase. Or at the dog park when he sniffs a mound of manure, one call would mean "hurry back right away" rather than "return at your leisure after you roll in the stinky stool."
How can you get such a rapid recall? You can start by making yourself more interesting then a pile or poop... or a neighborhood dog, or any other distraction that Fido finds more entertaining than you. Here's how.
Start with Fido on a leash in a quiet, distraction-free setting and give him a few tasty bite-sized treats so that he knows you're up to some fun. Then, when you have his attention, suddenly run backwards a few steps and say "Fido, come." Your sharp movement should stimulate him to want to play. As he closes in, hold the treat at his nose level so he keeps all four-feet on the floor and give him the treat when he catches up.
This step sounds simple but at least half of your friends are already messing up. First, be sure you say "Fido, come," only once if your goal is that he comes the first time. That is, quell that irresistible urge to blabber his name and the cue word repeatedly. Second, make sure your summon sounds like an invitation to play rather than a roll call on death row. Your goal is to teach Fido that running to you is more fun than a romp with fellow rovers not a sentence of doom.
Once you know you have this part down because every time you call, Fido immediately runs over, you can up the ante by expecting him to sit in front of you. No need to say "sit." Using your treat as a lure, just silently guide his nose up when he reaches you so the weight shifts onto his back legs putting him into sit position. Now, the new meaning of "come" is to race over and sit in front. To make this into a real game, turn and run away a short distance when you call him so the exercise is involves a short chase. When he catches up, stop so that he can sit in front of you and receive his treat.
The next step is to add mild distractions such as a toy or bone on the ground or other family members playing nearby. Walk towards the distraction and before Fido becomes too engrossed, call him and run away so you lead him in a chase. If you call soon enough and have practiced the earlier steps well, he'll immediately race after you. Cheer him on so he knows for sure he's having fun and give him his treat when he catches up.
Repeat this game with different distractions starting with easy and progressing to more difficult. Randomly practice at home and when on walks so he never knows when to expect you to break out in play.
At this point many owners mistakenly let their dogs run off-leash at the dog park. There, Fido frequently comes when called giving the owner the false idea that he has the exercise down pat. But like the running back who breaks 100 yards per game but fumbles on all the key plays, Fido's perfect except when it's really important. He always comes running but sometimes not until after he finishes rolling in the dead rat, after he aggressively approaches and barks at other dog owners, or after he runs half-way across the street.
To prepare Fido to recall reliably off leash, practice all of the earlier exercises on a long leash until "coming" when called even with tempting distractions becomes his habit. Gradually graduate to more distractions such as toys, new scents and even other dogs. This may take a little longer than you first thought, but by being consistent, careful, and always expecting him to come when you call just once, you'll develop a Fido who understands what you really want.
By Sophia Yin, DVM
Used with permission |
| Article #3 |
- Stand in a quiet room with your dog, a clicker, and TWO identical throwing items: toys, sticks, or balls.
- Tease your dog with a toy until she grabs it in her mouth. It's okeay if she runs away with it. When she looks at you again, hold up the OTHER toy. If she loosens her grip, click and hold out the new toy.
- Wiggle the new toy to make it tempting. Let her grab the toy in your hand while you pick
 up the first toy.
- Now hold up the toy you have. When she drops the toy she has, click, and make her reach or jump for the toy you have. Let her take it.
- Call her. When she is coming in your direction, even if she is not very close, click and hold up your toy. When she drops the toy she has, click and toss your toy. Retrieve the toy she dropped and repeat.
- Next, call her back to you. When she gets closer, hold up your toy. When she drops the toy she has, click and throw the other one past her (so that she has to run out to get it).
Repeat.
- When she starts dropping the toy near your feet, pick up her oty, click, and throw it. Now you can omit the second toy.
- Watch out for signs of fatigue. If you get this far in one session you are doing great@ Put the toys away, click and give a special treat.
- Play in different rooms and outdoors. When your dog understands that by returning the toy to you she can get you to throw it again, she will not longer play keep-away.
Go to our website for more articles about clicker training. |
News You Can Use
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| Upcoming Event:
Dog Show, Canine Good Citizen Testing, Agility and Carting Demos and more.
Palm Beach County Dog Fanciers Association
March 13-14 8:00 am - 6:00 pm
South Florida Fairgrounds
Contact: Michelle Conroy (561) 630-4009 |
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FAQs |
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Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Do you have an at-a-glance way to see classes and events?
A: You betcha! Our class calendar will give you the schedule at a glance. If you are a Lucky Dog member organizing your practice times, you can now tell if a class is inside or outside. It is color coded by type of class (such as agility, obedience, puppy). The first class will have START to indicate the beginning.
Q: How do I register for a class or event?
A: Find the class you want on the Schedule page. For events, go to the Events page.
Click the Sign Up button beneath the class description and fill out the registration form. Or you can call 561-427-6700 and I will sign you up over the phone.
Payment can be cash, check, or credit card.
You can mail your form, email it, drop it off in our secure drop box to the left of our front door, fax it, or you can sign up by phone. Go to our Contact page to find all this info (or find the info in this newsletter in the above right column.
Q: What training philosophy do you use?
A: We only use positive, reward-based, dog-friendly training methods at Lucky Dog. No jerking, pulling, ear pinching or other aversive methods are used. We introduce the training clicker into many of the classes so your dog has a quicker and clearer understanding of what you are teaching.
Q: Do I need a club membership to take a class?
A: No. Becoming a club member and taking a class are two separate things. But as a member you have access to Lucky Dog and can practice whenever you want (when there is no class scheduled).
Q: What are Lucky Dog's hours?
A: At this time there are no regular hours when you can drop by, but if you'd like a tour just give us a call and we are happy to accommodate you. Someone is always there when a class or event is scheduled.
Q: Do you only do group classes or can I schedule a private lesson?
A: We are happy to schedule a private lesson at Lucky Dog. We offer obedience and agility private lessons. |
| Get Better Soon |
 Best wishes and lots of good thoughts
to a good friend and a wonderful, caring teacher,
Cynthia Kean.
Get well real soon Cynthia! We all miss you!
(That's "happy dog" Beau Kean, one of Cynthia's sweet dogs.) | |
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My goal is to make this monthly newsletter as useful and interesting to you as possible. Which sections do you like the best? Articles? Class info? News of local events? Human interest information? What else would you like to see covered? And if you like it, please pass it along to a friend.
Sincerely,
Mindy | |
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